Author Topic: CVX 18 THRU HULL EXHAUST (Read 57467 times)

Shrom CVX-18 · « **Reply #20 on:** March 25, 2011, 02:54:59 PM »

Quote from: Grinder on March 25, 2011, 12:32:05 PM

Quote from: OrangeFever on March 25, 2011, 12:15:08 PM
Shaun - are you going to plumb the cooling hoses like Craig did?

I think so, but still not quite sure.

I think he is waiting to hear back from me if it works or not...I'll have the news as soon as i get a nicer day, to back it in the water.

Grinder · « **Reply #21 on:** March 25, 2011, 11:32:28 PM »

Craig Jeff,

Did you have to modify your S pipes? Were your pipes new? I have to cut about an 1 1/2 inches off the port side to make it fit. When I looked at the pictures of yours they looked like maybe they had already been cut? But I got the tips on, the block off plate on, the motor bolted back in, and everything sealed up.
The only things left are make the pipes fit, hook up wiring, hook up gas line, and fill with oil (this is the easiest oil change I have ever done on a boat!). The transom is not in the best shape but its not terible maybe get to that in the fall.

Grinder · « **Reply #22 on:** March 25, 2011, 11:58:35 PM »

Here are some pics from tonight

That alternator bracket worked great!

Shrom CVX-18 · « **Reply #23 on:** March 26, 2011, 08:02:24 AM »

Quote from: Grinder on March 25, 2011, 11:32:28 PM

Craig Jeff,

Did you have to modify your S pipes? Were your pipes new?

Mine, were used. I personally did not have to cut any off, however they do looked to have bin cut off at one time. It will also depend on if your tips stick through the transom more then ours possibly. Your doing great work! And fast too!

Rosscoe · « **Reply #24 on:** March 26, 2011, 08:11:30 AM »

Quote from: Grinder on March 22, 2011, 07:00:34 PM

Well I have most of my parts so I am starting to pull the motor. I just received the exhaust manifolds (dry joint) and they came with new restrictor gaskets, so my question is the new gaskets are restrictors sould I get the gaskets that are free-flowing or are these gaskets OK?

Craig did you use the restrictor type gasket?

Looks great Shaun. Now can you or anyone please explain to me this "restricted vs "unrestricted" and "dry joint" I saw "restricted" mentioned while looking and manifolds and risers. I ordered my new stuff on thursday.

Also, where did you buy the brass fittings from and do you know for sure they are the right size etc? I dont want to wait to get parts after I have the manifolds either, and have to wait for those.

Shrom CVX-18 · « **Reply #25 on:** March 26, 2011, 08:28:16 AM »

[quote author=Rosscoe link=topic=2130.msg23182#msg23182 date=1301145090
Looks great Shaun. Now can you or anyone please explain to me this "restricted vs "unrestricted" and "dry joint" I saw "restricted" mentioned while looking and manifolds and risers. I ordered my new stuff on thursday.

Also, where did you buy the brass fittings from and do you know for sure they are the right size etc? I dont want to wait to get parts after I have the manifolds either, and have to wait for those.
[/quote]

I am not sure how to explain the dry joint manifold, I am not even sure what exactly they are myself.

This was new to me also when it was mentioned. But the brass fittings are 1"NPT ( National Thread Tap) and have a 1" barbed hose fitting. I was able to pick mine up and a local hardware store. Mine are just the elbows though. They do not have the drain on the bottom like Shaun's. As I said before I wasn't sure they would work with the power steering cooler located there.

Grinder · « **Reply #26 on:** March 26, 2011, 08:31:54 AM »

Quote from: Rosscoe on March 26, 2011, 08:11:30 AM

Looks great Shaun. Now can you or anyone please explain to me this "restricted vs "unrestricted" and "dry joint" I saw "restricted" mentioned while looking and manifolds and risers. I ordered my new stuff on thursday.

Also, where did you buy the brass fittings from and do you know for sure they are the right size etc? I dont want to wait to get parts after I have the manifolds either, and have to wait for those.

Thanks Ross,

What manifolds did you end up going with, 4"?

Here is where I bought my alternator bracket and brass fittings and they worked great.

http://bpi.ebasicpower.com/p/BARMC-50-806926

As far as "dry joint" they are the new style mercruiser manifolds that don't run the water from your manifolds to your risers threw the flange/mating surface they run the water through 2 ports on each side of the riser.

Here is a pic of my manifold and restrictor type gasket (they say helps keep condensation out of the motor?)

here is a pic of the full flow gasket

Rosscoe · « **Reply #27 on:** March 26, 2011, 09:08:03 AM »

So the risers are cooled with seperate lines then the manifolds.... Hmm that would explain why there are so many fittings at the thermostat housing.

I went with 3" cast iron GLM's. I really wanted to go with aluminum but right now I am mostly interested in getting this thing on the water and see out the motor and jet are. Down the road, I may switch to 4" aluminum but I didnt want to enlarge the holes in the transom or spend the extra money.

Grinder · « **Reply #28 on:** March 26, 2011, 09:15:45 AM »

Quote from: Rosscoe on March 26, 2011, 09:08:03 AM

So the risers are cooled with seperate lines then the manifolds.... Hmm that would explain why there are so many fittings at the thermostat housing.

I went with 3" cast iron GLM's. I really wanted to go with aluminum but right now I am mostly interested in getting this thing on the water and see out the motor and jet are. Down the road, I may switch to 4" aluminum but I didnt want to enlarge the holes in the transom or spend the extra money.

Ross,

They are cooled pretty much the same, they have 1 hose going to the riser like the old ones. the main difference is not having the water go through the flange eliminating the possibility of water getting into the motor through a crack in the manifold flange or a bad gasket.

Rosscoe · « **Reply #29 on:** March 26, 2011, 09:35:25 AM »

But the manifolds still have water circulating thru them, right? So I dont really see the benefit.

Grinder · « **Reply #30 on:** March 26, 2011, 02:23:04 PM »

Quote from: Rosscoe on March 26, 2011, 09:35:25 AM

But the manifolds still have water circulating thru them, right? So I dont really see the benefit.

The benefit is if you have a gasket failure on the older style the water can leak into your exhaust ports then into the motor, on the dry joint if you have a gasket leak it will leak outside the manifold and not into your exhaust.

Grinder · « **Reply #31 on:** March 27, 2011, 08:03:37 AM »

Well I finished the thru hull yesterday. I fired it up, only for about 10 seconds because I dont have the outdrive on yet, and it sounds great. All I have left is to put the outdrive on, tighten the 2 front motor mount bolts, remount fuel seperator and soleniod. Hopefully I will get at that today an get a video.

Craig how did you mount your fuel seperator?

Rosscoe · « **Reply #32 on:** March 27, 2011, 08:57:21 AM »

Quote from: Grinder on March 26, 2011, 02:23:04 PM

Quote from: Rosscoe on March 26, 2011, 09:35:25 AM
But the manifolds still have water circulating thru them, right? So I dont really see the benefit.

The benefit is if you have a gasket failure on the older style the water can leak into your exhaust ports then into the motor, on the dry joint if you have a gasket leak it will leak outside the manifold and not into your exhaust.

Sorry to keep pounding on this but until I understand what I am missing...
The manifolds are plumbed for water cooling.
The manifolds are bolted to the heads so if those gaskets fail, you have problems and typically the risers have water going thru them as well, so where is the "dry" part? I guess maybe the if you are eliminating one of two gaskets/potential leaks its a good thing. Which part above am I off on?

Shrom CVX-18 · « **Reply #33 on:** March 27, 2011, 10:27:48 AM »

Quote from: Grinder on March 27, 2011, 08:03:37 AM

Well I finished the thru hull yesterday. I fired it up, only for about 10 seconds because I dont have the outdrive on yet, and it sounds great. All I have left is to put the outdrive on, tighten the 2 front motor mount bolts, remount fuel seperator and soleniod. Hopefully I will get at that today an get a video.

Craig how did you mount your fuel seperator?

Good work! Make sure you align your engine before you put the outdrive on...The fuel seperator on my boat was mounted on the side on engine bay.

Grinder · « **Reply #34 on:** March 27, 2011, 10:34:09 AM »

Quote from: Shrom CVX-18 on March 27, 2011, 10:27:48 AM

Good work! Make sure you align your engine before you put the outdrive on...The fuel seperator on my boat was mounted on the side on engine bay.

I checked the alignment and it is right on. I might have to fab a bracket to mount my fuel seperator.

Shrom CVX-18 · « **Reply #35 on:** March 27, 2011, 10:45:31 AM »

I still need to align mine, last year when I bought it I notest it sorta had a wine to it. and after putting the engine back in and checking that. I realized the the motor wasn't aligned.

but Lucky me my dad and I have a tool and have done this in the past. The past couple weeks for some reason have been cold here. So i haven't been doing much work to it lately.

If you get the chance to plumb it like I did and test it before I do let me know how it works for you.

Grinder · « **Reply #36 on:** March 27, 2011, 10:49:09 AM »

Quote from: Rosscoe on March 27, 2011, 08:57:21 AM

Sorry to keep pounding on this but until I understand what I am missing...
The manifolds are plumbed for water cooling.
The manifolds are bolted to the heads so if those gaskets fail, you have problems and typically the risers have water going thru them as well, so where is the "dry" part? I guess maybe the if you are eliminating one of two gaskets/potential leaks its a good thing. Which part above am I off on?

Ross,
There is no water passages from the manifold to engine head water comes in the manifold an out the exhaust. The dry joint is between the manifold and riser. In this picture the water passes from the manifold to the riser and out the exhaust through the passages in the manifold/riser flange/joint. If a gasket fails inward towards the exhaust water can leak into the exhaust part of the manifold.

In the dry joint water passes from the manifold to the riser through 2 ports seperate from the flange/joint eliminating the possibility of water getting into your exhaust through the flange. Not that water can't get into the exhaust with a crack in the manifold elsewhere but that would be with both styles

Hot Carl · « **Reply #37 on:** March 30, 2011, 12:21:15 PM »

Shaun - once again great (and fast) work and thanks for the pics. Have you gotten the pipes fitted/fuel water separator mounted yet?

Grinder · « **Reply #38 on:** March 30, 2011, 01:04:48 PM »

Quote from: OrangeFever on March 30, 2011, 12:21:15 PM

Shaun - once again great (and fast) work and thanks for the pics. Have you gotten the pipes fitted/fuel water separator mounted yet?

I got the pipes fitted and installed on Saturday morning and couldn't work on it again till last night. I had to cut the S pipes off 1 7/8 on the starboard and about an inch on the port. After I cut them they fit great. I finished everything exept fuel seperator bracket, and a new trim hose (on order). I brought it outside last night, hooked the garden hose up and fired it up. It sounds great!!!

Grinder · « **Reply #39 on:** March 30, 2011, 01:05:48 PM »

Quote from: Shrom CVX-18 on March 27, 2011, 10:45:31 AM

If you get the chance to plumb it like I did and test it before I do let me know how it works for you.

I did plumb it like that article I found, for the fact that it was a PITA to get the plugs out of the manifold. I let it run for about 10-15 min and didn't see any overheating problems, manifolds were warm but not hot.