Minnesota Classic Glastron Forum
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Jason on September 27, 2010, 12:16:06 PM
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Took the V172 out for the first time this last weekend. Engine runs great. Pops out of the water and planes out quickly. But tops out at 20mph and 3000RPMS. If you don't remember it's a 95HP inline 6 merc with a 19p prop. My old 75 V173 would do 35 with a 85hp merc 4cyl so this should be at least equal to that in speed. I don't remember what prop I had on the 75 though.
In neatral it revs well past 5500RPM's quickly and smoothly.
I am hesitant to tare into the engine as it runs so good. Any ideas?
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I would think a 19p might be a little too big for that engine, I would try a 17p on it. I ran a 19 on my Merc 115 on a 1970 V176. Of course the engine will rev fine in neutral because there's no load on it. Check for fuel restrictions, clogged carb jets or a plugged vent on the tank. You should be getting 5500 rpm and around 35-40 mph wide open.
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Start with Sea Foam in the gas tank, Mercury Power Tune in the carbs and combustion chambers, and check the condition of the spark plugs (and make sure they are the right ones for your motor.)
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I haven't looked at anything on the engine yet. Just threw her in the water and see what happened. I'll check out the plugs, compression, fuel filters, vents, ect tonight. It's getting a new water pump impeller. Tattletale looked a little weak coming out of the side of the engine.
Dave, What kind of props do you have laying around that will fit this thing for me to try out?
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I just have 19 and 21 pitch SS Ballistic and 21 pitch 2-blade bronze. Check with Steve, Ross or Jim who may have 17's and 19's.
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Be interesting to see what the 17 or even a 15 inch prop will do.
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Also change the fuel diaphram rubber, gaskets and check valves (comes as a kit). I would think that a 19" pitch prop would work. It depends in the lower unit gears. The 115 HP Merc has 2 to 1 gears, but my 80 HP Merc had 2.3 to 1 so the V-153 used the same 19" and 21" props with both the 80 HP and 115 HP Merc.
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Check with Steve, Ross or Jim who may have 17's and 19's.
I don't have a 17 and I don't think Steve A. does.
Ross might
I got one from Lance at Lance's Prop Shop in Forest Lake this spring to try but traded it back for a 19.
Jim B
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I am starting to really think the prop is fine. It jumps out of the water and planes really quick. There must be something else going on. I'll look into the motor tonight.
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Jason where is the trim pin set to ?
Should be 3rd or 4th out ...
EDIT
Just looked at your post and you have power tilt & trim ...
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Another question is whether or not the engine is laboring at full throttle. If so, check the motor angle as Gregg suggested, or check the bottom of the hull for hooks or rockers or growth. If not laboring, a fuel or electrical problem, a slipping rubber hub in the prop, or a prop with a really low pitch, such as 11", 13" or 15". Good luck.
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Had the same problem ,it was a small air leak in the primer bulb and another time it was a small hole in the fuel pump diaphram(chrysler) if it jumps out of hole shot than loses pwr probably check eintire fuel system.
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Well, looked at her again tonight. I was wrong on the prop. It IS a 17P prop and looks new so kind of doubt it's that at all now. If anything the RPM's would be high.
I noticed the throttle lever is rotating all the way to the stop screw on the distributer but you can manually move the carb linkage a little more, maybe 15 degrees or so before it hits the stops on the carbs. Is this normal?
Compression was 150psi across all 6. So that's good.
Spark plugs were pretty carboned up. They are Champion plugs which have let me down in the past so i think I'll replace them anyway.
It does have power trim and I tried it at all angles. Someone put the hydrofoils on there. Think that would affect anything?
Growth on the bottom....... You might be onto something Dave. I noticed it before but didn't realize it was as bad as it is. Feels like REALLY ruff sandpaper. Think it could affect it this much? I guess I should work it off anyway. Not looking forward to that!
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t124/lincolnman1969/1967%20V172/P1070747.jpg)
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t124/lincolnman1969/1967%20V172/P1070745.jpg)
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t124/lincolnman1969/1967%20V172/P1070698.jpg)
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t124/lincolnman1969/1967%20V172/P1070692.jpg)
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t124/lincolnman1969/1967%20V172/P1070688.jpg)
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t124/lincolnman1969/1967%20V172/P1070756.jpg)
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t124/lincolnman1969/1967%20V172/P1070754.jpg)
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HOLY CRAP !
What is that ?
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t124/lincolnman1969/1967%20V172/P1070756.jpg)
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t124/lincolnman1969/1967%20V172/P1070754.jpg)
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Looks like growth is the problem, but do the other stuff too just because you do not know when it was done before. There should be some algee or industrial cleaner that would take care of the growth. I personally like NGK plugs, but Steve likes the Champions. NGK for mine is BUHW, Champion is L78V. Check a marine dealer for your number. Fleet Farm has both, about $2.25 for the NGK's.
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WOW!!! ya .. that will certainly slow you down!
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Wow that bottom looks hairy! Might have to shave that bugger. Is it from the middle east? :D
I know less then the others that made suggestions so....
That thing sure should be able to spin a 17"
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Wow Jason, I'll concur with others that the growth on the bottom of the hull has to be giving you problems. Up in Eagle River last weekend?
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Rhinelander!
yep, got some serious scrubbing to do. It's really caked on there. Any ideas on what will work to remove this?
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The little bit I have read it sounds like you can power wash it off after you let it sit in the water for a while and saturates with water.
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A razor?
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Advertisement on Craigslist for boat hull powerwashing and cleaning:
http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/boa/1986432141.html
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Muratic acid it can be purchesed at most hardware stores and use as straight, You will need a gallon. Buy a throw away sprayer and go to the car wash unless you have a pressure washer. Blue Lagoon marine at the time I worked there we went threw 300 boat bottom cleanings, they bought muratic acid by the 55 gallon drum. Wear protective clothing you dont care about rubber gloves, eye goggles, long sleeve shirt. Thats what happens after years of sitting in the lake every summer with out yearly cleanings. Make sure the boat bottom is dry and use the acid straight! If you have a galvanized trailer it may discolor the only help to prevent that is water down the trailer and carpeted bunks. Spray on the muratic acid heavy and let sit for 5 min and then pressure wash. Also a face mask is a good idea, dont breath that stuff!
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Thanks Steve! I will try that. I am just not to sure what people will think when I walk into the car wash with a rubber suit, gloves, and big goggles!
If i find a pressure washer, and try this in the driveway, do you think it will eat asphalt?
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You can use my power washer if you want Jason.
Call me If you have the list
I also have some H2SO4
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Thanks Steve! I will try that. I am just not to sure what people will think when I walk into the car wash with a rubber suit, gloves, and big goggles!
If i find a pressure washer, and try this in the driveway, do you think it will eat asphalt?
Muriatic acid will definitely raise heck with asphalt and will really brighten up your concrete! Go have lunch at a lake near Jerry (soak the boat for an hour or more) and then give the pressure washer a try or take it to the car wash and hit it with the acid. We used to pressure wash boat lifts in the fall after taking them out of the lake for the summer. Most of the nasty stuff just sprayed off with the power washer or even with a high pressure hose nozzle ... one of those 1/8" opening things you can get from a hardware store.
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I think I am gonna try the car wash first. Maybe I'll spray it on in a walleyworld parking lot (take that wally). Then hit the car wash. Just not sure How I am gonna get under the bunks. May have to make a second trip with the boat on the trailer a little crooked.
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When I was working on my Saberflite bottom I put 2x spacers above the bunks perpendicular to the bunks. I used pieces about a foot long to make a space above the bunks. Space the 2x's about two feet apart.
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Got some Muriatic acid after work today. Backed the boat up to the woods, sprayed a bunch of acid on it, drove down to the car wash, and it just peeled right off. I am hoping to get in a test run tomorrow assuming I can find a ramp that isn't flooded!
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Muratic acid also works great as a weed killer, also used to adjust ph balance in hot tubs and swimming pools.
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Got in a test run on Lake Mallalieu in Hudson today.
34mph (boat speedo) but only getting about 4100RPMs. I am happy with the speed as it's what i expect but seems like the RPM's should be higher.
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150% of the first test! Sounds like you might need to re-prop!
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Taking the fur off really helped!
You are already running a 17, right? I wouldnt think you'd want smaller then that, would you? More rpms, but less speed? David....!
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The RPMs do not seem right at 34 MPH with a 17" prop. Also, 40 MPH should be attainable. The motor at full throttle should be running around 5,300 RPM, and to get there from 4,100, a difference of 1,200 RPM translates to 6" down in pitch. I would test the tachometer and speedometer for accuracy and then check the prop. What is the make and model? What is the diameter of the prop? It should be around 13". If larger in diameter, it would account for the drop in RPM. Has the prop been reworked? Did you mention the make and model of the prop? Off brand props can be much slower than the Mercury Quicksilver, which are designed by the engineers for the torque and horse power curve of the in-line six. A good bench mark prop would be the basic aluminum Mercury Quicksilver three blade prop in 17" pitch. They are common and a used one might be $75. Something does not seem right currently.
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I have not checked the Tach for accuracy yet. I hope it's accurate because when I rev it in neutral it will go up to 6000. Don't worry, it was just a quick rev!
I know it's a Mercury brand prop and it looks like a 13" to me. It's for sure a 17P too. I'll have to get the part number off of it sometime. It looks fairly new.
I am curious what a 15P would do.
I know the boat seems big but it's under 800lbs not including the engine. Overall, it's lighter then my CV16SS at 1200 lbs with the I/O. Just seems like the 17 is the right prop for this boat.
hmmmmm.
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oh, it has a hydrofoil on it too. Not sure if this would affect things or not.
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The prop part number should end in a dash and then a two digit number, which is the pitch of the blades. Post the part number and we can determine the rest from charts.
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Those hydrofoils are designed to help under powered boats with crappy hull design's. In my opinion they have no place for the lighter hulls with good power. Just think if those hydrofoils helped so much the factory would have made them part of the cavatation plate as one peice.
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Like David said make sure the tach is dialed in befor ya start swapping props. I would remove the hydrofoil and lake test again to see if there is a differance which I think there will be for the better.
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Jason, with the hull sitting in the water for so long with algae building up, wondering if you have extra weight from water under the floor. It seems like the 95 HP Merc with a 17" prop on a 17' boat should go in the low 40 miles per hour turning 5,000 RPM.