Minnesota Classic Glastron Forum
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: melinprov on May 13, 2018, 09:20:29 AM
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So I have been lazy on the V179 but spring is finally here and so many other chores and projects had to be done but I'm ready to get back on it. I have been having some trouble finding a local supplier of fiberglass project material and have been hoping to find it in Salt Lake City which is about 100 miles from here but may end up paying shipping and getting it from elsewhere. I appreciate all the help I've gotten here to get this far. I have been looking through a lot of other posts here for great information too. Here is where I am at right now
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Having a local supplier is a plus, they generally will share a great deal of information related to their products and how it applies to your project. If one doesn't exist, there are plenty that provide on line sales and will talk to you if you call them. Omaha has some suppliers, but none are Marine specialists. I've purchased most of my materials from on line sources, the price plus shipping is fairly close to competitive to local. I found 8" woven roving in rolls to be super handy for tabbing. Certainly lots of rebuild threads on here, take time to review and develop a plan. Don't be afraid to ask, send emails, make calls, etc.... remember, all of us were once in your shoes and learned sometimes the hard way. Good luck
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Our local supplier got me very close to the amounts I needed of all supply's.
Told them what I was doing and they told me what and how much ... and even tips on best way to do it.
I had forgot about some items that needed glassing so had to go back for more resin.
Boat building experts with years of experience, good people to deal with ..
Heck ... Joe's on a first name basis with Jim ;)
Express Composites
http://www.expresscomposites.com/ (http://www.expresscomposites.com/)
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I just ordered about 1/2 of what I think I need for this rebuild. I ordered less than what I thought I needed in order to re access it after a hands on session. I ordered from a place called Fiberglass Warehouse because of its proximity to my location and free shipping. I'm itching to go!
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You'll be itching after ya go also ... :o
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right!....I still have some minor grinding to finish up ( itching to go ) I did clean and degrease the engine bay today and found some "design errors" I know the bilge would get the back but not the forward area of water in this picture. I have followed another archived post here that showed where to put the drain holes in the new wood forward of the engine bay but the pool above where the bilge would sit requires some thought. This engine bay used to be grey-black with gas and oil. The wood that you can see does have resin over it but I plan to reglass a lot plus paint. I also have yet to cut out the sides---I left the engine box complete for now but will do it when I get the wood for the 2 outside stringers
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Another question....if I use a laminating resin on my stringer lay up-do I need to use a finishing resin after? can I use a gel coat after the laminating resin instead of a finishing resin to top it off? How long do I wait or can I wait before using either a gel coat or a finishing resin? --- to ensure proper drying and set up. Or can I just leave the laminating resin to cure or must I use a gel coat or finishing resin? I don't remember thinking about these things when I did my Corvettes fiberglass back in the day
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He talked about that at the Winter Workshop ...
Can't remember exactly how it went, some one will chime in.
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I have never used “finishing resin” or added wax to
Resin. It stays a little bit sticky but most of that stuff gets covered Up and or foamed in anyways. On the last 2 projects I did all of the exposed glasswork In the interior was covered in gel coat. I really like how it turned out and will do that on any other boats I rebuild. For the gelcoat you need to use wax in the last code to get a complete cure.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
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OK based on that and other sources -I'm not too worried about the laminating resin, it is mostly on the stringers and under the deck, maybe Ill add wax for the top of the deck though. I'm pretty happy also because I had the day off to irrigate and 1/2 of my fiberglass supplies have already shown up! no charge for shipping and only a $30.00 haz mat fee. The prices were comparable to US Composites. I may pick up the finishing resin at a big box store if I don't add wax-I only will need a gallon or so--now Ill take a weekend off for Memorial Day and then start after that.
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OK so I have got all my supplies ( I hope ) and I have laid everything out in the garage and now I have some more questions for this weekend to glass in the stringers. I cut 2 stringers today from the one good stringer I was able to save-- and I noticed that the 2 stringers that I cut vary by about 1/8 to 1/4 inch in some areas. Is this a big deal? I thought I might just ratchet them together and sand them even with each other--so that at least I start the process evenly. another question....what is the word on using preservative on the wood? I plan on being very liberal with my resin when I glass these in so that I soak each stringer very well before glassing over them-does that make a difference or should I use preservatives and if I should use a preservative- what should I use? I am also planning on bedding these in with small foam pieces laid down in the initial bedding-will that change the height I need to plan for the deck? Getting excited to begin!
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almost forgot....another good surprise-the flotation boxes in the rear are dry so I'm keeping them but the wood is dry too....dry rotted that is ,so I will have to build around the foam, I thought I would just replace the 2 outer sides and front and then just foam in below from the bottom of the foam to the top of the fiberglass, this will leave a area that once had a deck below the existing foam as foam only---is that do able, should I add reinforcement along the bilge box just to the side to make up for the missing deck? OR should I just try to squeeze the deck back in--I think I could do that but it would be harder
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Never found a case where the stringers are exact copies of one another, good to see you were able to pull the existing to use as a template. Minor differences exist due to variability I believe in the fiberglass process. I've not found the hulls to have differences, but inside does seem to change. A bit of massaging will be required to get a proper fit. As for the foam, the old stuff is not waterproof, but if has not absorbed water yet, it probably can be reused. New foam technology is harder and waterproof, will not absorb any water unless it is cut or damaged. Holding old and new together in your hands, it really is different stuff. Bad side is the cost, replacing all with new foam is probably is pricey. Always shoot to pour around 80 degrees if using the new foam, in that way you get the maximum expansion and acceptable working time. closer to 90 degrees, you gotta move fast. Below 80, say 60, the foam will not occupy as much space. Great to see progress, hope you make it out on the water this year.
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it would be sweet to get out on the water this year, I did order A-B foam for under the deck and that is what I would use for under the flotation boxes if I keep them-hopefully that will seal them in somewhat. So- maybe I will just put the stringers in as is and then sand off the top as I need and what ever else may come up after I bed it in. Any one else see anything else to the contrary? What I was concerned with the foam is that the deck may have been a significant part of the support in the rear for the inboard motor, I have seen smaller boats ( V 155s) that just have a flotation box to the bottom and thought it would be OK
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The bottom of the stringers needs to follow the hull as closely as possible. Once that contour is correct, then I cut the tops to match the floor contour. Everyone seems to have a slight variation to the same issue. As for treating the stringers, I use mixed resin cut with acetone. Use two coats, first coat has more acetone than the 2nd.
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so I cut out the sides of the bilge area and left the main center stringer and took out all the rotted wood below the flotation boxes, I also left the bulk head before the engine box in for some support and as a jig. I then cut and placed all the outside stringers and it all measures up pretty nice. I do have some gaps but I think I can use fiberglass putty to correct that. I wanted to get started glassing it in but we are having high winds and temps in the 90s for today---so -maybe tomorrow I can finish bedding it in
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we went from 94 degrees to 64 but I had a good day today -so I got started
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Looking good! I may be doing my stringers this fall since I found my 5 year old floor delaminated in one spot.
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Sorry to hear that, I have been following your thread on the deck delamination, I was just thinking about drainage in mine and how I may re- do it as well as how I will mount my seats and such to the deck. I did get the center dagger-stringer out today and also removed the bulkhead from the back, I may add a small bulkhead to the front to replace the fiberglass that was there. Looks like a few days of rain here for the rest of the week though. I also measured the center stringer wrong and purchased a piece of wood that was 1/2 inch too small-so that may be the new front bulkhead! My dremmel tool came into its own today as I struggled with cutting out the very front fiberglass sheath.
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cut the middle stringer and back bulkhead and sized it and check level in my garage, I just need a good day to "fiberglass/glue" it in. I also got some PVC that I will use for drain channels in the bottom from the front to back-I will reroute the tube that comes from the upper section above in the bow to one of the PVC pieces and them foam over that. I am also thinking about building a separate slightly raised deck in front for the gas tank that would also drain to the PVC
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so-just a update,I've been working on it here and there--- when I can--- but the weather has been in the 90s and sometimes the humidity has been around 60% so I have been waiting for some better days. I have been able to get out and purchase more items that I will need in the future and I have been able to fiberglass over the transom to replace the fiberglass mat that wore off over the years, I have some bilge paint to apply also. While looking for some info on laminating and resins and humidity I did find this thesis with documented information on the effects of humidity on a build http://www.montana.edu/composites/documents/Mei%20Li%20thesis.pdf (http://www.montana.edu/composites/documents/Mei%20Li%20thesis.pdf)
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mind you this guy was building wind turbines with e glass but I think its good info
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got the other two done, it came out a little battered but I think it will be OK. I had problems with the front but may go back on some of it. Weathers in the 90s again so I will work on other non fiberglass things till it goes back down again. Some years we hit the 100s and some it stays around 85 most of the summer. Humidity is high this year also so far. Planning out the deck too-so that I can include some of my modifications around the float boxes in the rear. I bought some PVC that I am going to use as drain tubes to the rear so that I can foam over everything under the deck
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Any progress is better than no progress. Even in 90+ temps, maybe some shade and good fans could help extend the temperature range your comfortable with working in.
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You are right Plug Check,Im beginning to figure this out and now work inside the garage and have a large fan set up. I still check the weather report in the AM and plan accordingly. So far so good!
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and here's my simple drain system, I ran a split PVC pipe down both sides of the center and will foam over it after using PL glue to secure it and I will build a front bulkhead and put flexible hose from all the separate front bow rider areas to the open chamber before the foam. the back area on the sides above will be all foam also with a smaller pipe to the rear and a hole in the back bilge box on either side.I'm hoping that this area will never see any water --but just in case
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where I am at now-ran out of resin but it should be here monday
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so...working mostly on the weekends and during the day before it goes over 95-Im ready to drop in and do the deck