Author Topic: Repower the CVX 16 (Read 10912 times)

wiliermdb · « **on:** January 20, 2011, 11:47:08 PM »

Finally decided to take the 115 off for awhile so I can do some work to it and install my 1996 88 SPL on the CVX.

I've been wanting to do this for the past month but finally jumped on it today after work. Had to make another engine stand ($47 in supplies) to put the 115 on. I purchased a lifting eye from Bob's machine shop and that did the trick. I use a chain hoist to lift the motors. Works perfect. Also, purchased a set of backing plates for when I install the 88. The 115 needs some welding on the cavitation plate and I'd like to repaint the gold on the cover and install a new gasket.

My 88 SPL is in almost new condition and should at least push the CVX just the same as the 115. Plan on mounting the 88 Friday after work and hopefully take it out Saturday. Temp is to be around 60 - 62 so that's not too bad.

AndyBean · « **Reply #1 on:** January 21, 2011, 12:45:02 PM »

Beautiful motor. Where do you live that you are lucky enough to get out this weekend?

wiliermdb · « **Reply #2 on:** January 21, 2011, 03:10:29 PM »

South Louisiana. I'm between New Orleans and Baton Rouge. I'm lucky that I have river access as close as 15 min. from the house. Supposed to be 62 on Sunday. Water was in the low 50's to upper 40's the last time I went out.

Waiting on 4:30 so I can head home and put the other motor on.

V153 · « **Reply #3 on:** January 21, 2011, 04:23:58 PM »

Yeah that 88 sho looks suweet! Wish my 90 looked so good.

Not sure you'll see the same performance as the 115 though. 'Less the 115's crank rated, and worn out? Then I guess it could be close.

Yep those Bobs Machine lifting eyes are the cats a**. Which reminds me: Hey now is the time to raise that motor a hole. It'll be okay, trust me.

Carry on.

Rosscoe · « **Reply #4 on:** January 21, 2011, 05:26:08 PM »

Is that hoist just hanging from your roof trusses or something else?
Do those backing plates go on the inside or out? Does the motor bolt thru them?

wexrocks · « **Reply #5 on:** January 21, 2011, 09:45:31 PM »

Yeah, I would guess you will see the same or better performance, considering crank rated vs. prop rated, and possibly lighter...? not to mention that the newer motors in some cases max out at a higher rpm, so even at a matched hp, the speed may increase if the motor is capable of reaching a higher rpm (assuming the gear ratio is the same). are you going to be running the same prop? would be interesting to see the difference, just for conversation sake. I don't suppose you have a gps speedo? even a pitot driven speedo would give you a gauge of faster or slower, regardless of the actual speed. there is always alot of conversation on the topic of crank vs. prop hp, so I'm sure alot of us will be interested in what you find out.

wiliermdb · « **Reply #6 on:** January 21, 2011, 09:46:21 PM »

From what I've been told by OMC folks here and there, the 88 was about 92 hp at the prop. (1996 model) The 115 is a 1977 and was rated at the head and had about 85 to 90 at the prop. (new) The 88 was on an aluminum Bass Tracker that was in no way a performance hull. It weighed 215 lbs more than the CVX and with the SST 13 3/8 x 17 prop it would still push that boat to 40 on a good day.

I figure running the 12 3/4 x 21 SST that's on the 115 now should give at least the same levels of performance as the 115. I know that the 88 is way less thirsty than the 115. I ran the previous boat about 55 miles on 3/4 of a tank a couple of times. (15 gal) Not too bad. I pulled my nephews on the tube, knee board and I slalomed behind it for about 6 hours and never ran out of fuel.

Hopefully I get it all rigged on Saturday and take it out that afternoon or Sunday. Supposed to be sunny but chilly. Tonight's low is 28.

As for the chain hoist, I have a 2000 lb. D-ring bolted in to the laminated beam that spans the carport. This beam is 4" x 18" I used 6" bolts that I dipped in resin before installing. If it comes down, the back of the house is coming with it.

wiliermdb · « **Reply #7 on:** January 21, 2011, 09:49:02 PM »

Surprisingly the Airguide speedo original to the boat has been dead on accurate whenever I've had a gps in the boat. I borrow my neighbor's Garmin anytime I do testing. I will let the forum know what the outcome is.

wiliermdb · « **Reply #8 on:** January 21, 2011, 09:54:39 PM »

Rosscoe

The backing plates go against the transom from the inside of the boat. They distribute the bolt stress over a wider area to avoid the typical washers embedding in to the fiberglass.

While everything was off the boat, I buffed the transom to get it nice and clean. I wiped out the engine mount holes and painted the inside of each hole with thinned resin so it would soak in to the transom wood.

wiliermdb · « **Reply #9 on:** January 22, 2011, 01:43:00 PM »

The 88 is mounted and ready to go. I just have to wait for the sealer on the mounting bolts to dry before I hit the water for a test run. Had not issues installing the shift/throttle cables. Everything worked with the first try. Took me about 2 1/2 hours total to get it ready for the river. I did a test run in the driveway. Took 4 turns of the key and away she went. Not bad for sitting up for about 6 weeks and also having a block temp of around 40 degrees. I still love the condition of this 15 year old motor.

wiliermdb · « **Reply #10 on:** January 22, 2011, 01:53:06 PM »

The boat pictured is the donor boat that was destroyed on the highway. I was lucky that the motor wasn't destroyed and I was able to salvage about $300 worth of parts off of it. Sold the gas tank and gauge, two seats w/ mounts, steering wheel, helm and cable and boarding ladder. Recycled the hull for $375 and just sold the trailer for $250. It needed new boards and an axle that was bent in the accident. Insurance gave me $3300 and let me keep the boat. I had about $4500 in it when the accident happened. Keeping the motor put me way ahead of the investment.

That's how I ended up with the CVX.

MarkS · « **Reply #11 on:** January 22, 2011, 02:37:12 PM »

Did you have to buy longer motor mounting bolts for use with the backing plates? I'm about to install a set of the "Transom Washers" from CMC, and I think the top bolts will be too short. The original bolts, nuts, and washers are aluminum. I've got some longer bolts, but they're stainless. I know you're not supposed to mix stainless and aluminum, but I was wondering about the "lesser of the evils" on the subject.

wiliermdb · « **Reply #12 on:** January 22, 2011, 05:30:08 PM »

MarkS,

The CVX had 3 1/2 inch stainless bolts with large aluminum washers under the bolt heads. When I installed the 88 today with the backing plates, I had to get two 4 inch (1/2" diameter) stainless bolts for the upper bolts. The boat that the 88 came off of had 5 inch bolts so I had to use two of them on the lower end of the motor bracket as on the 88 it is thicker than the upper bolt holes.

Replace all your bolts, washers and nuts with stainless. You'll never have a problem with that set up.

I tell you what, Bob's Machine Shop over in Florida has the best deal on the backing plates. You get both the upper and lower plates for $25. Almost every other place was $25 or more just for the top plate.

MarkS · « **Reply #13 on:** January 22, 2011, 07:22:35 PM »

Thanks, 'preciate the info. I've already ordered and rec'd. the CMC pieces, $25 for the top and $18.50 for the bottom. My 115 has the 3 1/2" on all four, with more threads showing on the bottom so they may work with the plate. The top has only 1 or 2 threads showing thru the nut, so I bought 2ea 4" stainless bolts for there. I also have the nuts, washers, etc. in stainless, and may go ahead and get 2 more 4" for the bottom holes.

I'm also wondering if I should pull the motor off the transom to make sure I get the holes sealed up properly, even though I'm going to be replacing the floor, (maybe stringers), and transom in the next year or two. Would resin, 4200/5200, or what be best for sealing?

wiliermdb · « **Reply #14 on:** January 22, 2011, 10:22:57 PM »

I would still seal the holes even if you're planning to rebuild everything in the near future. Don't use the 5200 for the bolts. My parts guy at the local dealer said you'll have a hell of a time removing them later. I picked up a tube of Boat Life / Life sealer that is made for mounting engines. Holds up above and below the water line.

Like I postedain the early post, I went ahead and used a thinned down resin and a Q-tip to seal the inside of the bolt holes. Gives me a little peace of mind that if water gets by the sealant, then I know the wood is sealed.

wiliermdb · « **Reply #15 on:** January 23, 2011, 05:48:53 PM »

Well, nothing earth shattering to report. The 88 with the prop from the 115 that pushed the CVX to 51 wide open would only push the boat 45 at 5000 rpm. Gave up a little top end and it doesn't quite have the torque of the 115. I can cruise at 40 at around 4000. Two good points is that it uses less fuel and it's much quieter than the 115. Could be gearing. Anyone know how you can tell what the ratio is for a lower unit?

I may keep my eye out for a late 90's or early 2000's 115 that's in really good condition and sell the two I have. I kind of like having a back-up motor, though. Who knows.

It was a perfect January day for a ride though. It was about 58 - 60 degrees and the sun was shinning bright. I ran about 27 miles.

Hyperacme · « **Reply #16 on:** January 23, 2011, 06:02:43 PM »

Doug could tell you more about this then I ... but I think it's carb and timing changes that make a 90 to 110/115 HP Johnson/Evinrude.
Might be able to pick up parts on eBay for cheap ...

http://www.crowleymarine.com/

Above link has parts break downs of most motors.

88HP ...

http://www.crowleymarine.com/omc_parts/Evinrude%20Outboards/1996/88.cfm

115HP...

http://www.crowleymarine.com/omc_parts/Evinrude%20Outboards/1996/115.cfm

wiliermdb · « **Reply #17 on:** January 23, 2011, 08:06:22 PM »

I'd looked in to that before and from what I've been told it's the carbs and the exhaust. Carbs are way to expensive unless I can find a donor. There's a dealer in New Orleans that has a '99 Johnson 130 for $3300. I'm not that worried about it at this time but I'll keep my eye out for anything that pop's up. 115's always pop up around here because many bass boats come with them and the boats really need a 150 or something.

I'm still satisfied with what I have. 45 is plenty enough on the river I'll be on 90% of the time. Plenty to pull the tube and kneeboard with and to get my but up on a slalom.

wexrocks · « **Reply #18 on:** January 23, 2011, 09:24:01 PM »

that's interesting... I always like real-world comparisons, and using the same prop really puts it into perspective. just gonna throw it out there, although I'm sure you checked... but did you check that the throttle cable was adjusted to make sure you had WOT at the carbs with the 88? sounds like you were pretty thorough, so I'm guessing you did.

it's good info for all the CV & CVX 16 owners, as I'm sure the repower and prop vs. crank hp questions come up alot especially when trying to keep weight down. it would be interesting to see a crank rated 140 vs. a prop rated 115 in this same situation.

84carlson · « **Reply #19 on:** January 23, 2011, 09:56:18 PM »

I've had (3) engines on my 1984 CVX 16 all with a 19" stainless steel props, these are my numbers.

Brand new 1984 Johnson 140 57 MPH all day hit 60 once

Used 1977 Evinrude 140 50 MPH

1998 Johnson 115 60 degree 47-50 MPH

The best engine was the 1984 140, it seemed to really get it out of the water, although the 115 is much better on gas and runs very good.

If you purchase the 1999 130 you will have to change your wiring harness to System Check, the red harness is no longer used past 1996 models; I ended up spending another $600 on cables, gauges and the oil tank.

Joe