Author Topic: V175 work (Read 106813 times)

Rosscoe · « **Reply #280 on:** February 12, 2013, 10:21:35 AM »

I am starting to research fake wood grain contact paper and metalized tape for the dash. If anyone knows a good resource, let me know. I'll check the resource topic within the forum as well. I don't think I'll get anything to match so I'll likely end up replacing it all. Most of the woodgrain is good except on the edge where I suppose people used as an arm rest.
That metalized tape is/was textured.

Rosscoe · « **Reply #281 on:** February 12, 2013, 10:34:51 AM »

Quote from: Rich_V174SS on February 12, 2013, 10:17:39 AM

I've seen that happen on a couple Chinese coils but what you need to be careful with is the internal connection. On one I saw break the stud was hollow and the coil wire came up the inside of the stud and was soldered on at the tip which was broken off. If you have a hollow stud you also need to be cautious the internal oil doesn't leak out, especially if the coil is mounted on its side and not vertical.

The stud seems to be solid. So, there will be not unscrewing it and screwing in something else? Not of its physically attached to a wire. I had hoped it just made contact with something inside. If I remove the wires, do you think using my meter will tell me anything good or bad? There must be continuity between them and if not, its junk?

Rich_V174SS · « **Reply #282 on:** February 12, 2013, 10:37:40 AM »

Yeah, a continuity check should tell you it's still connected internally, ohm meter across the two terminals with the wires disconnected.

Rosscoe · « **Reply #283 on:** February 12, 2013, 11:22:51 AM »

I don't know how I'd be getting this stuff done if I weren't unemployed. Not to mention all the projects I have been working on in the house. I'd have to spend every night and weekend on it and that wouldn't sit well with Joni. Maybe a blessing in disguise as they say.
I just finished this custom trim around the living room window that has been waiting to be completed for about 2 years.
I was experimenting with the scale of that middle decorative piece in the middle so it wasnt stained in this pic.
Well its 11:20. Think I'll eat something and get dressed.

Rosscoe · « **Reply #284 on:** February 13, 2013, 10:33:00 AM »

Somewhere I read that on water refueling stations have a wire/clamp for grounding the boat to eliminate static. They said generally, its attached to a bow rail or something like that. Does that really do anything if the bow rail is just screwed to fiberglass? Would it make sense to maybe run a ground wire to say a cleat?
It also mentioned grounding the gas filler housing. I had been working on grounding the fuel lines anyways since I cut into the copper line and added a small filter using coast guard approve fuel line and also added the fuel/water separator. Anyone see anything wrong with what I've done? Made things worse in some way?
I attached wire from the fuel neck to the gas tank. The tank was already grounded via the copper line. After I added the filter (up under the dash) I made some collars that fit the line and put a screw, ring lug and wire to connect both sides of the broken line for a continuous path.

Rich_V174SS · « **Reply #285 on:** February 13, 2013, 10:38:35 AM »

You did good.

I installed several gas tanks and fillers last season, I grounded the metal hoses and filler spouts in the same manner as they should be. For metal hoses all you really need is a hose clamp and you can just slip the bare end of your ground wire under the clamp and tighten it down. As long as the ground returns to your main ground bus or the battery you're fine - "ground is ground the whole world 'round".

Rosscoe · « **Reply #286 on:** February 13, 2013, 10:41:40 AM »

I did the same thing in the rear around the separator.
I know, Jerry, rubber line in the bilge, no good. It may become a steel line at some point.

Rosscoe · « **Reply #287 on:** February 13, 2013, 10:48:42 AM »

For metal hoses all you really need is a hose clamp and you can just slip the bare end of your ground wire under the clamp and tighten it down. As long as the ground returns to your main.

DUH!!!!!!
I never even considered that! Here I bought these, what I believe were some type of cable clamps from Fleetfarm, reamed them out to fit over the line, added screws and jam nuts. Made it way more difficult!

Rosscoe · « **Reply #288 on:** February 13, 2013, 11:12:03 AM »

So, any thoughts on grounding a cleat for refueling and keeping any static spark away from the filler? Maybe it can be discharged at the filler before opening the hole.

Rich_V174SS · « **Reply #289 on:** February 13, 2013, 11:14:25 AM »

On occasion I may have seen hand rails and radar arches/wakeboard towers that were grounded but have never seen it done to cleats. Grounding the fill is required by the USCG.

Rosscoe · « **Reply #290 on:** February 13, 2013, 12:15:56 PM »

My thought there was just to keep it further away from the fumes. Pretty easy to do. Ground right to the tank or fuel line (WITH A HOSE CLAMP) this time.

Maybe over kill or unnecessary.

Jason · « **Reply #291 on:** February 13, 2013, 12:23:04 PM »

Wow Ross. You don't pass up any details. Extra measures to keep your restored boat from blowing up is well worth it.

Rosscoe · « **Reply #292 on:** February 13, 2013, 12:45:53 PM »

Yeah I just don't want to make things worse somehow by directing a spark right to the tank by doing any of this. I know some basic electronics and electrical but...
Speaking of that, I noticed that nice tank under the bow of your CV16 Jason. Plastic, right?
I am going to have to address mine one way or the other. It looks to be impossible to remove it without splitting the hull, or cutting it up which I don't think I'll be doing. Kaboom!
Maybe that stuff Jerry has mentioned before....Creme or cream can be used as the tank sits.
See the scumations in my little inline filter? Thats got about 2 hours on it maybe?

Rich_V174SS · « **Reply #293 on:** February 13, 2013, 12:55:58 PM »

Hey Ross, I see a potential problem with your vent hose. You've got it dipping in the center and that's no good. If you get fuel stuck in there then the tank can't vent, the engine will starve for fuel. The hose needs to be held up higher against the deck or angled so it can drain all the time back into the tank and remain open. Correct installation of a vent hose is supposed to have a loop up above the vent on the side of the hull but our small boats don't allow the room to do that so the hose needs to have a straight-line run from the vent to the tank.

Rosscoe · « **Reply #294 on:** February 13, 2013, 01:07:23 PM »

No sh*t. I don't believe I changed that but I'll shorten it up to remove the loop. Thanks for pointing that out.

Rich_V174SS · « **Reply #295 on:** February 13, 2013, 01:14:09 PM »

This is what my tank hoses look like. My vent hose comes up and is suspended along the underside of the deck all the way to the vent which is coming out of the port-side bow, below the rubrail.

Rosscoe · « **Reply #296 on:** February 13, 2013, 01:19:37 PM »

One more thing before I get off my butt.

Just a reminder since we have new members and people coming across parts and parts boats all the time.
A couple of things I am looking for.

Front hatch cover. I dont think I can fix this pile.
Spot light which was remote. If I cant find a replacement, I may just figure out a way to make this ridged but still be able to move it my hand if needed.

Rosscoe · « **Reply #297 on:** February 13, 2013, 01:21:18 PM »

The loop is the issue, right? Looks like you have your original tank. No rust issues?

Rich_V174SS · « **Reply #298 on:** February 13, 2013, 01:27:46 PM »

Quote

The loop is the issue, right?

Yes, If you fill your tank to the point where fuel comes out the vent indicating the tank is full then the fuel that is in that dip in the hose is going to stay there, effectively blocking off the vent. It's got nowhere to go.

Quote

Looks like you have your original tank. No rust issues?

Yes, original 1967 tank. It's got some rust along the lower rear seam and tends to have a slight weep but it's not leaking to the point where fuel is dripping out of it. I think the inside of the tank is pretty clean, I don't think I'm getting any garbage in my filters. Like you mentioned to remove the tank would be a major undertaking, either split the hull or cut the tank up while it's in the bow. Not something I'm looking forward to either.

Quote

A couple of things I am looking for.
Front hatch cover. I dont think I can fix this pile.

I have a spare hatch for a '68 V174, same color as yours but you have the redesigned deck (1969-1972) so I don't think it will fit properly on your boat.

Jason · « **Reply #299 on:** February 13, 2013, 02:42:57 PM »

My tank in the CV16SS is new in 07. A direct original replacement from Tempo. No more rust! Are you sure you can twist or wiggle yours out?

My 67 still has the original steel tank too. No rust. They must have used good steel that year!

Maybe you can make a new hatch out of carbon fiber or fiberglass. Or maybe have some tinted plexie-glass bent to match the old hatch cover. Masterglas in lakeville could probably match the old one.