Fawkes rebuild

[Jason]

I'd probably whack off the front section over the bow area....I think that's just gonna be a trip hazard?  Otherwise, I like it Brandon!  Nice job!

That's what I was going to say. Use that wood to build more bunks to support the middle more.

I bet it's nice having that A-frame hoist laying around!

[V153]

Yeah I agree. Notch that fwd section outa yer way a lil.

Frightening when ya got em hangin in the air ain't it?

I miss the ole gal, she liked to do that over water too ...

[Rosscoe]

Looking good. Are you going to be able to move it indoors for floor and transom work?

[Hyperacme]

Looks like casters under it in the one picture ...

[75starflight]

Yep there are casters under under the cradle, but they are only there to maneuver the cradle into position. Right now the cradle frame is sitting on 4x4s and 2x4s keeping the casters off of the ground.

Unfortunately, I don't have an indoor work space large enough to house this project over the winter. Hopefully in the future that will be possible after I finish fixing up the house and find the right property to make me want to put the house on the market. Honestly I like working out side, the fumes aren't that bad and neither is the fiberglass dust. but that makes it a warm weather project only then.  

Hopefully I will get the gas tank out by the end of the day sunday.

[75starflight]

Frightening when ya got em hangin in the air ain't it?

Nah, its my second time hanging one like that. Phoenix Rising was my first. I was pretty confident it was going to stay put. Especially after my back decided to go out on me while pulling the trailer out from under Fawkes. I had to sit down and take a break about every 10 minutes or so. 

[75starflight]

I'd probably whack off the front section over the bow area....I think that's just gonna be a trip hazard?  Otherwise, I like it Brandon!  Nice job!

I like to over build things, its just in my blood. My thoughts on having the front bow section was to be able to brace up the bow in case it would happen to flex after the cap is removed.

[dorelse]

I'd probably whack off the front section over the bow area....I think that's just gonna be a trip hazard?  Otherwise, I like it Brandon!  Nice job!

I like to over build things, its just in my blood. My thoughts on having the front bow section was to be able to brace up the bow in case it would happen to flex after the cap is removed.

You could still do that with a much narrower center support section...

[75starflight]

I'd probably whack off the front section over the bow area....I think that's just gonna be a trip hazard?  Otherwise, I like it Brandon!  Nice job!

I like to over build things, its just in my blood. My thoughts on having the front bow section was to be able to brace up the bow in case it would happen to flex after the cap is removed.

You could still do that with a much narrower center support section...

Might change the front section in the spring, as it sits right now it is doing a good job of holding the tarp nice and tight for the winter. Amber and I did do one modification to the cradle today. We added a pair of 1x10s clamped fairly tight to the outer set of strakes becaues we were having a bit of haul flex when I would try to climb into the haul. Its solid as a rock now.

[Plugcheck]

     I always admire the resourcefulness of the American craftsman, nice work Brandon.   I will be using a somewhat similar lifting unit to pull the trailer out and set on the shop(yet to be constructed) trolley.   I actually am hoping to have the bottom of the hull only inches off the floor to make working on my CVZ a bit easier.    I'm afraid we could likely have a competition of "most rotted" hull parts.   Hoping to be well into the resto project before we meet in January.   Good luck on yours, good to see progress.    Michael.

[75starflight]

     I always admire the resourcefulness of the American craftsman, nice work Brandon.   I will be using a somewhat similar lifting unit to pull the trailer out and set on the shop(yet to be constructed) trolley.   I actually am hoping to have the bottom of the hull only inches off the floor to make working on my CVZ a bit easier.    I'm afraid we could likely have a competition of "most rotted" hull parts.   Hoping to be well into the resto project before we meet in January.   Good luck on yours, good to see progress.    Michael.

I bet we both find some very rotten material, with what I have found so far its not going to be good.

Michael, amber and I will be in Omaha for a Christmas Party the weekend of the 14th of December, would't mind stopping by and seeing your progress on your CVZ while we are in town. I give you a call to see if you will be around.

[75starflight]

Received some templates today from John aka Glastronjohn18 today so I can replicate the orginial bucket seats for the CVZ-18. If anyone is in need of these after I am done building mine please let me know. I would be glad to pass them along.

[wexrocks]

nice templates!

if you need any dimensions, thicknesses, angles, etc. of the inner bracing and wedges, let me know. I don't know how to take a still shot from my video that shows the completed wood structures, and the original pictures were lost in a hard drive crash... but I still have the original pieces that I replicated for mine, and I marked all the angles on them, and obviously dimensions would be easy to take from them. I would very strongly suggest fiberglassing the final product before upholstery... the vinyl holds moisture, and your new structures will eventually rot, plus, continuous use works all the joints/nails/glue loose, and they will get sloppy and start to come apart. my next set will get fiberglassed, primed, and painted before upholstery...

[75starflight]

Thanks wex. I plan on a 50/50 resin acetone coating and then fiberglassing to help reinforce the structure of the seat. I plan on using 3/4" ply for the seat base and then 1/2" for the seat back and cushion base.

But first I need to get the propane tank for my shop heater filled since the temps have dropped into the 30s on a regular basis here in Nebraska.

[wexrocks]

sounds like a good plan... might have to steam box the 1/2" to get the curve for the backrest. I used luan sheeting (to match the original) plenty strong enough and forms the curve well, especially strong enough when fiberglassed. the strength of the structure really is in the corners of the uprights and the inner bracing. I know that the curved backing added to the comfort. not to say that way I did it is the best, jsut throwing my opinion out there.

[84carlson]

But first I need to get the propane tank for my shop heater filled since the temps have dropped into the 30s on a regular basis here in Nebraska.

17 degrees in Lincoln this morning, might be a long winter...Looks like the project is off and running.

I finally got mine winterized, covered twice and tucked in the garage, now the Carlson is the winter shelf for all the crap in the garage, I went out the other day and all the patio cushions, water toys, flag pole and a bike tube somehow are piled on the old girl.

Joe

[75starflight]

But first I need to get the propane tank for my shop heater filled since the temps have dropped into the 30s on a regular basis here in Nebraska.

17 degrees in Lincoln this morning, might be a long winter...Looks like the project is off and running.

I finally got mine winterized, covered twice and tucked in the garage, now the Carlson is the winter shelf for all the crap in the garage, I went out the other day and all the patio cushions, water toys, flag pole and a bike tube somehow are piled on the old girl.

Joe

It was a cold one this morning, at least the wind was not blowing any more.

At least she is covered and protected.

[Glastronjohn18]

Received some templates today from John

Brandon, good to hear the patterns arrived.


[/quote]

sounds like a good plan... might have to steam box the 1/2" to get the curve for the backrest.

Wex,  the seat I took the patterns from had  1/4'' plywood for the back and sides . Easy enough to bend around the seat base without steaming. I believe you said you used 1/4'' also. At one time I also thought of going with 1/2'' for the back and sides mostly for the extra strength. I'm not sure the extra work to get the 1/2 '' to bend would be worth it to me, I'm just going to sit in the seats not jump on them. After all the originals lasted 30 + years.

[Carlson_from_Germany]

Engine cover is in my shop with the anchor light socket removed and the add on temp gauge. Also have the bow light removed.

Maybe this hole comes in handy if you do something sick like this:




Or like this:

[WetRaider]

I think your 1/4" would be sufficient - you can bend it without scoring.  If you really, really wanted the extra strength, bend your first piece, coat it with resin and laminate a second across it.  When the resin cured and the two pieces adhered, you'd never get the curve out, even if you popped all the staples and screws.