Author Topic: Soft Transom (Read 9245 times)

Hoss · « **on:** July 15, 2015, 08:02:48 PM »

Hi, I jest found out that my Glastrom boat has a small crack in the fiber glass on top of the transom. It has a 50hp evinrude on it. So I went on line and I found out that they make alum. brace (a plate) that you can install inside the boat. Is this a good idea? Will brace the transom?

Rosscoe · « **Reply #1 on:** July 15, 2015, 09:44:07 PM »

Lets see some pics of the damage. If its letting water in, NO good.

Hyperacme · « **Reply #2 on:** July 16, 2015, 09:26:45 AM »

" Is this a good idea? "
No .. Some have put large metal plates on transom as a "Band-Aid".

" Will brace the transom? "
Maybe ...

Hook trailer to car or truck, tilt motor up, grab motor and with all your weight try to rip it off the boat,
How much is it moving around ? Is crack in fiberglass getting bigger as you move motor ?
Please be careful doing this ...

Poke around with a sharp object, around motor mount holes and around any thru transom fittings.

Are there cracks in the fiberglass covering on the inside of transom ?
Is floor soft around bilge drain bowl in rear ?

Would you be able to replace transom yourself, if needed ?
Are you willing to spend $500 to $1000 on repairs ?

Poke around back there and post some picture please ...

dorelse · « **Reply #3 on:** July 16, 2015, 09:48:49 AM »

I'm not a fan of the metal plate...you're putting a band-aid over something that will only get worse with time.

I'd do the check's Gregg mentioned and see just how bad it really is...

Hoss · « **Reply #4 on:** July 18, 2015, 09:25:49 PM »

Hi guys, Thanks for the come back.
Rosscoe and Hyperacme, I will try to post some pic's. Not very good at it. No water is getting in that I could see. Ran the boat around the lake for about 1/2 hour and there was no water in the boat.
dorolse I will try what Graig Mentioned. I will keep you informed of what happens. Regards Hoss

Hyperacme · « **Reply #5 on:** July 18, 2015, 09:33:06 PM »

If you can't post your pictures, let me know and I'll help.

With soft wood in transom, the motor will eventually break through fiberglass and make thing that much harder to repair.

Hoss · « **Reply #6 on:** July 18, 2015, 09:54:55 PM »

Hi guys, here are some pictures I hope Hoss

Jason · « **Reply #7 on:** July 18, 2015, 10:18:15 PM »

Does not look to bad but it does look like the motor is pulling into the wood. Try the "rip motor off" trick and let us know if it moves. If it feels solid, run it. It's only a 50hp so not a ton of power on the transom.

Hoss · « **Reply #8 on:** July 20, 2015, 05:09:45 PM »

Hi guys,
Jason, I tried the "motor rip off" test. It feels solid but it sure does a lot of creaking. What do you think? Is it worth putting a plate in, to brace the transom? or not. Regards Hoss

Jason · « **Reply #9 on:** July 21, 2015, 05:38:29 AM »

If it was my boat i would leave it alone.

Hyperacme · « **Reply #10 on:** July 21, 2015, 08:23:01 AM »

The deck fits on the hull like a shoe box, and is made in a separate mold.
So it can crack over time, because it's not an absolute perfect fit. both Glastron's I have owned had a crack similar to the one you showed us.
One boat had a good transom and the other had a transom that pasted the "Try to rip it off" test but still had rot in two places.
The pilot tube that runs down to the speedo pick up tube was not sealed/bedded right or just got old and let water in.
Water soaked down from the three hole and over to hull drain hole, wood was so rotted I removed it with just my fingers.
It would have been OK for years like this because of how my transom is designed, but I knew my boat would be doing over 50 mph and didn't want to risk it, it also needed a repair on rear floor and stringer so I replaced transom and rear floor/stringer.

My boat had a mid 70's Mercury with the thumb screw upper mounts and the old style add on T&T system, so I had holes all over the fiberglass on my transom. I used a "Transom Saver" on the inside of the splash well to cover old mounting holes, I'm sure it also adds strength to mounts, but I did it more as a way to cover holes and large circles from old motor.
I also lifted my motor so T&T ram was up against splash well drain hole, my splash well would still drain ... but very very slowly ...
I found some plates that added more negative trim to your motor and used them to get motor back from drain hole about a quarter inch.
Are theses the thing your talking about ?

T-H Marine transom support plates ...

http://thmarine.com/th-marine-products/outboard-performance/outboard-transom-support-plates.html

Transom Wedges ...

http://thmarine.com/th-marine-products/outboard-performance/outboard-transom-wedges/cmc-transom-wedges-2-degree.html

Your motor looks to be a 70's motor, so must have been added at some point, poke around the motor mount bolt holes, look for cracks in fiberglass covering on inside of transom.
It's hard for us to "Make the call" with out actually looking your boat over ...

Wood rot from poorly sealed speedo tube screws ...

Transom saver ..

Negative trim plates ...

nes-cv23 · « **Reply #11 on:** July 21, 2015, 07:20:05 PM »

If your close to MN. You can come get this one I have. It was on a gt-150 I'm working on. The guy made it pretty beefy it even bolts to the sides of the splash well. Or any one else out there if you want it. Come get it.

Jason · « **Reply #12 on:** July 21, 2015, 09:35:26 PM »

WOW! That is heavy duty! Probably $80 in scrap value.

Rosscoe · « **Reply #13 on:** July 22, 2015, 10:06:34 AM »

Hoss
It does appear that you are missing a piece of trim along that back edge where the deck meets the hull. Usually just a piece of stainless that goes over the top and back of the transom. Usually riveted or screwed on. Not saying that would add much if anything structurally but it does leave a crack for water to get in. I would at least seal that with some 3M 5200 if you never plan on going further with repairs. A plate is a band aid too and creates more holes but is probably the next best/cheapest way over doing nothing.

Hoss · « **Reply #14 on:** September 01, 2015, 11:42:07 AM »

Hi guys, nes-cv23 I don't live MN, I am in boulder MT. However I am willing to pay for the shipping if would ship it to me. I need to know how much you want for it however. Hoss

Hoss · « **Reply #15 on:** September 01, 2015, 11:53:11 AM »

Hi Hyperacme, My boat don't have the problems that you show in your pic's. However, how big would you make the transom plate? The inside of the transom around the motor bolt holes and else where have no cracks. So I guess I am lucky that way. Hoss

Hyperacme · « **Reply #16 on:** September 01, 2015, 01:01:08 PM »

If your transom is in good shape, but you want a little extra support try ...

Transom Support Plates, top & bottom.
http://thmarine.com/th-marine-products/outboard-performance/outboard-transom-support-plates/cmc-machined-transom-support-plates.html

Or this one ...

Transom Wedges ...
http://thmarine.com/th-marine-products/outboard-performance/outboard-transom-wedges/cmc-transom-wedges-2-degree.html

nes-cv23 · « **Reply #17 on:** September 01, 2015, 06:52:47 PM »

Hoss. I lost my storage spot so I had to sell a couple of my projects and that transom was on one of them. Could have shiped it though. Next time. B.

Hoss · « **Reply #18 on:** September 05, 2015, 02:23:15 PM »

Hi nes-cv23, maybe nest time. I do have a question however. I plan on running the transom brace down the outside of the transom. How far down should I go and how wide should I make it? and in the splash well.

Hyperacme · « **Reply #19 on:** September 05, 2015, 03:07:40 PM »

Your going to make a plate and place it on the outside, between motor and transom ?

I'm not sure how far down and wide you should make it ?
Since your transom isn't rotted, I don't think it would have to be full width of stern.

Pictures of plates ...
https://www.google.com/search?q=transom+plate&biw=1438&bih=702&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0CDwQsARqFQoTCL6WgMrY4McCFQRNkgodFCUJ6g&dpr=0.95#imgrc=_