Got on the water to test drive before TI meet - need to replace the seat bottom

[rmorit01]

Any tips or tricks before I start repairing the seat base (drivers side) on the SSV-164?

Wanted to get a start on the break-in of the rebuilt engine and did 6 hours on the lakes today, here in Madison, WI.   The casualty of the day was the base of the drivers seat - one more reason I need to diet - 240lbs and rotten wood don't mix.  Felt it give way when I wiggled out behind the wheel.

My plan is to first make a template, cut a new piece of wood in the right shape - carefully (very carefully) pull the staples off the old base and rewrap the new -- staple the cover on and attach everything back together.

Here are some pictures:

This is the seat base. 4 long screws came up through the seat (surprised I couldn't feel them poking through).  The rear part of the seat is starting to crumble. I was going to first make a pattern of the base and then pull the staples.




The base goes down on to the sub-base and seatback - you can see a few screws still sticking through -


The mounting system has 3 machine screws (two in the front and one in the rear).  On the bottom of the sub-base are 3 screw things (I have no idea what they are called) but they are threaded and pull into the wood.  These 3 machine screws go through the base mounted to the floor and are held in place by washer and a nut.

Bottom of the sub-base showing the threaded things -


This is a shot of the base attached to the floor.

[David CVX-16]

I do not know the exact condition of your old seat base, but consider cementing a new thick piece of hardwood over the old crumbling one and design a system for screws and bolts to hold fast and secure. That way, you do not have to disturb the vinyl and staples.

That's what was done on my CVX-16 and so far it is holding up.   

[Hyperacme]

My seat bases were rotted, so removed vinyl and covered with old vinyl.
Had new vinyl covers made , so removed old covers and replaced with new this spring.

Take your time pulling staples. Be careful ...
On new wood I smooth edges, round corners, duct tape all edges and added foam to places that needed some more.
Some wood was coated with a mix of half poly resin and half styrene to seal wood.
Clean vinyl and soak with Buckeye 2000 or Protectant 303. get down into corners and into and around piping / edges.

I can remember which wood I used ... Guy that did our kitchen cabinets said he made a BMX jump for his kids years ago out of it and still looks good after years of sitting out in the weather unprotected.
Maybe birch ?
 
Unsure what those pronged nuts are called but I replaces all mine in seat bases, with SS ones I got at Manards .. They have a great selection of stainless hardware.

[Glastronjohn18]

The pronged nuts Gregg is referring to are known as T nuts.  To help in removing the staples try this, wedge an ice pick under the staple to loosen it, than use a pair of side cutters to pull it out.

[rmorit01]

I do not know the exact condition of your old seat base, but consider cementing a new thick piece of hardwood over the old crumbling one and design a system for screws and bolts to hold fast and secure. ...

David - I found your post on using a fiberglass patch and the spar varnish - lots of other good information too.

[Rosscoe]

I just did this to one of my seats and ended up having to do it in two pieces because of the way it had to be tucked into the old vinyl. I did not worry too much about loss of strength because these particular seats have wood top and bottom with a fiberglass layer in between. Have not seen that before. Wood is only 1/4". I think its there just to hold the gazillion staples.

Menards has the T nuts if your are toast. Last ones I bought were not stainless but they might have both.

[rmorit01]

Made some progress today - first stop was Menards for the stainless hardware --

Pulled the staples, and removed the vinyl cover and the foam, while carefully trying to keep as much of the rotted wood together.  Made a template from the original base - base is 1/2 inch plywood with the front part having a strip of 3/4 plywood to reinforce the front - glued that up tonight. 

I found some marine grade plywood at the local home depot and used that though perhaps a different alternative would have been better - at least the jigsaw didn't like the 3/4 in stuff. Here are some pictures so I remember how it goes back together.

Thanks for the info - found all stainless steel parts at Menards and stainless staples when I put it back together.  Clearly a previous repair was done with much longer screws and over an inch long pieces of "fill" wood pushed up into the foam where the original holes stripped - so glad the long screws used didn't poke through the vinyl.

This is what I could remove -


And this is the remains on the foam - foam is stained but not rotted, plus it is carved and in 3 pieces so I am just going to re-use.



The foam in 3 sections - looks like you get the pleat by pulling the vinyl down with some tension over the center section of he foam.


Underside of the vinyl - this would be much harder if the previous folds and staple marks weren't in place -


Top of the vinyl cover -

[rmorit01]

One more question -

What do you all suggest I do with the "sub-base" that the seat base rests on?

It is still solid with some staining on the surface.  Is there a way to stop the rot from going any deeper than the surface?

Thanks - Bob

[Hyperacme]

Mix poly resin and styrene half & half, thins it out so it can soak into wood, should last for ever.
Also heard you can thin resin with acetone, might be easier to find.
Varnish might work.
I have a spray can of "Thompson's water seal" I use around the house, but I believe it only lasts a few years and needs to be reapplied.

If foam is crushed down from years of uses you can add a piece of 1 inch thick high density over the top to help.
Stuff is CRAZY expensive though ... 

While you got covers off, apply Buckeye or Protectant 303 to every nook and cranny, even on piping and stitching on back side.
Keeps vinyl soft and pliable, your covers look to be in good shape and that will help them stay that way.

Best to do it right the first time, and not have to worry about it ever again.
 

[dorelse]

I thinned my resin with acetone on the B...worked well for soaking into the wood.

[CVX Fever]

Drill some drain holes in the rear as well.  The problem with the design of those seats is the water from a wet swimsuit pools in the rear at the base under the seat cushion & has no place to go. So they rot. My dad drilled drain holes in both buckets on his '86 X16D.

[rmorit01]

Tonight I finished the seat and tomorrow I will test install and figure out where to drill some drain holes.  Then I will load up and head to TI.

I didn't get the piping and stripes to line up, but for me this was a win. A couple of learning's for me:

1. Recover by first starting in the back corners where the piping is and where the material on the bottom will overlap.  But mark some lines to line up with seat back.  (I didn't do that).
2. Then pull in the corners at the front where material wraps around the wings then secure. 
3.  From that point it is pull everything tight and staple.
4.  I used a "powershot" staple gun and it would jam after about every 15 staple since it was made for use with the "Arrow" brand stainless staples.  Slowed me down and I wouldn't recommend that model, unless I just got the defective unit.

I have to give credit to reading how others did much more complex work so I thank everyone who posted explanations of what the did to fix, repair and recover the seat.

Final handy work

Test fitting the new base - My pattern from the original was a bit off so I had to do some trimming to get the base to slide to the backrest.




Stapled up the bottom and great advice to use duct tape on the edges -


Here is the top - a ripple in one of the front wings and in the back I pulled the material too far to the outside -


Final product - misaligned but a good first try - cleaned top and bottom and conditioned with 303 protectant

[Jason]

Looks great!

[Hyperacme]

Yes .. Looks very nice !
Guy that did my seats has been doing it for over 30 years ... and he struggled with stuff on my seats, even with all his "Little tricks" we had problems.

[dorelse]

looks great!