Author Topic: Timi time  (Read 874 times)

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Offline Green with Envy

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Re: Timi time
« Reply #20 on: December 14, 2017, 10:41:58 AM »
Early on, I used to have sections where the resin would seep into the hollow areas.  If applied in a certain manner, each honeycomb chamber is sealed by the resin and cloth and remains an air void.  I've been using it for several years now, and have developed a lay-up process that virtually eliminates any bleed-thru and retains buoyancy.

I'm planning to lay-up more pieces this weekend.  I'll post a video in my HPV restoration thread to avoid hijacking this one.
1974 Glastron CV-16 SS
1975 Glastron GT150
1984 Searay Sundancer
1979 Glastron HPV-175

Offline Plugcheck

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Re: Timi time
« Reply #21 on: December 16, 2017, 11:16:57 PM »
Boats that utilize foam or balsa for stringers are using the fiber glass laid up against them rely on the glass plies for strength.  I would agree that in this application composite materials would be a suitable substitute.  But when I cut out the stringers in this Timi, they have tabs and cloth cover.  I just don't see that as structural.  They basically relied on the 2x6 beam strength, and used glass to seal and captivate it.  I could see a composite use on the floor, and yes, as a stringer, but only if I plan to lay up at least 3-4 layers on either side vrs a capture layer.  Now when you consider the extra glass and resin required for composite stringers, I wonder if there is a weight savings.  I'll admit, I'm not a pro boat builder, just a DIY guy restoring old classic boats, so I tend to error on the side of on design.   Now the floor is a real possibility for composite, right now I'm considering it, or 3/8" play with cloth on both sides.   Just curious, how do you composite guys anchor seat mounts and such?
Michael
1979 CVZ-18 388 CI Vortec Mouse
1980 CVX-16SS 140 Mercruiser
1979 CVX-16 Johnson 175
2002 Bennington 2275CC 90 Mercury
1985 Intimidator project, gps 85 mph (on trailer)
1989 Lowe 200 Redneck fishin Toon

Offline Hyperacme

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Re: Timi time
« Reply #22 on: December 17, 2017, 09:45:17 AM »
" Just curious, how do you composite guys anchor seat mounts and such? "

Diamond Chad's post ... "CVX 16 gets a new floor"

http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=5388.msg75070#msg75070
Gregg
'76 CV16

Offline Green with Envy

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Re: Timi time
« Reply #23 on: December 18, 2017, 09:54:20 AM »
I like how this conversation is going.  It shows that everyone has an opinion on how things should/could be done.  And, there are pros and cons to to each way.

There has been wood in boats since the first one was built.  Wood in a boat is not a bad thing.  I have a sterndrive boat as well as my project Glastron.  I would probably use wood on my engine stringers if I ever had to replace them.  Mostly for the ease of the repair, but also for the internal strength that wood offers and bolt holding power for the motor mounts.

1974 Glastron CV-16 SS
1975 Glastron GT150
1984 Searay Sundancer
1979 Glastron HPV-175

Offline Hyperacme

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Re: Timi time
« Reply #24 on: December 18, 2017, 01:40:53 PM »
I think details matter as much as materials.
All wood sealed, all holes sealed, over built, air bubbles removed from lay up, T-nut at bolt mounting locations, etc.
If done well, my CV would still be solid ... Lasted almost 40 years with exposed wood in stringers and under rear floor.

No right or wrong with materials used, just how it's done.
Gregg
'76 CV16

Offline Diamond Chad

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Re: Timi time
« Reply #25 on: December 18, 2017, 03:21:18 PM »
The 1/4" aluminum plates top and bottom, sandwiching the Plascore risers, is holding up very well after 2 years, and some pretty rough rides.  Boy's say they've had it airborne on Minnetonka.  Once the floor is in, you will never get a wrench under there, the bottom plate was tapped and threaded the bolts up through it so they can' "fall back" into the hull.
87 CVX18 5.7
88 CVX16 115 Merc
57 Dunphy Imperial Musky - 57 Golden Javelin
01 Malibu Sunsetter 21 LSV 340 EFI

Offline Plugcheck

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Re: Timi time
« Reply #26 on: January 16, 2018, 10:57:30 PM »
A bit cool outside tonight, so I decided to do a bit of work on the Timi.  Tim and I modified the cradle to support the hull, since it is different from the CVZ.  From what I found on the old interweb, it is a variable deadrise v hull?  I did a bit of exploring with the remaining wood that supports the ladder and transon/trailer u bolts.  Using a super high tech tool(screwdriver), I found even these pieces were rotten.   I decided to follow Jeff's advice and remove the grey filler type substance from the transom.  There is plenty of undulation in the glass transom, and I figured the existing material would hinder the rebuild rather than help it.  It broke out easily with a hammer and chisel, really did not bond well to the hull glass.  Wherever the filler was cracked, the glass underneath was blackened.  Not sure how deep, but I do need to grind it back to solid resin and fabric before glassing in the new transom.  Plan is to build one layer of 3/4" transom to span the entire width, then another 3/4" layer just the size of the transom.  Hopefully I will have some room to add knees into the stringers. 
Michael
1979 CVZ-18 388 CI Vortec Mouse
1980 CVX-16SS 140 Mercruiser
1979 CVX-16 Johnson 175
2002 Bennington 2275CC 90 Mercury
1985 Intimidator project, gps 85 mph (on trailer)
1989 Lowe 200 Redneck fishin Toon