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Stringer removal

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melinprov:
what is your preferred method and tools for stringer removal? I have let my V179 dry out and I'm ready to remove the stringers, I thought I would use a oscillating multi tool and cut below the wood in the fiberglass and just lift them out whole and then try to drop out the wood. My stringers are almost whole and are more dry than I thought they would be with some bad spots were I would expect it to break or crumble. I would like to use the old stringers as templates for cutting the new ones.

melinprov:
a strange thing happened when I left it in the sun too-my dash cracked-I guess I'm going to have to make a flat one or find a replacement soon also.Also on the V179, it is well braced and the cap is still on-the gas tank and forward knee caps etc area are coming out this weekend before I remove the stringers

75starflight:
Do not discard your Insturnment panel it can most likely be saved. Please post pictures of the crack. In most cases these old plastic Insturnment panels are brittle from being in the sun all these years. I recommend reinforcing them by fiberglassing the back side.

I actually had to find a Insturnment panel for my 179. I ended up purchasing a yellow one like yours it was missing a few pieces and had a hole drilled in it. I sanded the back side and reinforced it with fiberglass mat. Then I primed and painted it to match the color of my 179.

If yours is too severely damaged I do have an Insturnment panel stashed away in my shop that is from the 179 I parted out. It needs a little TLC but it is in one piece.

Plugcheck:
Some folks leave most of the glass in place and simply cut the top off, pull the stringers out, then glass back in the new.  Others cut out and remove down to the hull.  The decision generally occurs based on the level of rot.  If there are areas the stringers are solid, then the tabbing may still be well bonded, and cutting flush is the only option.    Using the existing stringers for templates is valid, if you can get them out intact.  As for tools, the vibration tool(cast cutter) will work, but a 4 or 4.5" angle grinder using cut off and standard grinding disks make the job go a bit faster, albeit dustier.  Wear breathing protection, and clothing to keep the debris off your skin, as the fiberglass can really make some folks itch.  As too the dash, old plastic can get brittle, possible to repair and re paint, depends on how bad the damage.  There is plenty of info on this site in past threads for both issues, take a look around.

Hyperacme:
I used a "oscillating multi tool" , but only did transom / bilge well on a small 16 footer.
As I said on other post, I did it over the winter in a cold garage and had months to do it ...
Slow going, but more control on cuts.
Used "Metal cutting bits" they would last longer.
Wood bits were toast after hitting a screw / nail / staple in wood.

There are "Plastic repair kits" ... Do a Google search. I've seen them for snow mobile hoods.

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