Author Topic: Trailer Paint (Read 6490 times)

Jason · « **on:** May 06, 2018, 09:47:58 PM »

I am working on repainting my CV23 trailer. Plan is to have it sandblasted then prime and paint it. I have a few ideas for paint but was curious if anyone on here had any recommendations. Needs to be rattle can as I don't have fancy pants paint guns.

Jason · « **Reply #1 on:** May 06, 2018, 09:51:28 PM »

I have also stripped everything off the trailer. All fenders, brackets, and any other bolted on parts have been removed and will be blasted separately.

thedeuceman · « **Reply #2 on:** May 06, 2018, 10:17:57 PM »

I would use an epoxy primer and a 2 part enamel with hardener. You can get a gun at harbor fright for $30

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Plugcheck · « **Reply #3 on:** May 06, 2018, 11:48:14 PM »

Fancy pants spray equipment, got a chuckle from that. Rust-Oleum thinned 20% with a decent brush should flow out ok. There are low cost spray options, but that depends on what capabilities are for your air compressor. Not wanting to volunteer someone, but if all you need is it sprayed, then I think someone might help?

nes-cv23 · « **Reply #4 on:** May 07, 2018, 06:15:17 AM »

Another option is when you have it blasted, have them use zink. It will come back in a silver gray color and will never rust again. Than you can paint it if you want to match or just leave it silver. The zink puts like a galvanized coating on everything.

fireman24mn · « **Reply #5 on:** May 07, 2018, 09:23:56 AM »

I used the rustoleum Hammered on one of my trailers you can buy rattle cans or you can brush it on both looked good.

If you do want to spray it we prob could at my house. It would be outside though trailer want fit in the garage.

Plugcheck · « **Reply #6 on:** May 07, 2018, 10:20:06 AM »

Thinned properly, the rustoleum product that I used had a long tack stage and flowed out nicely. You could shoot it outside, but it would need to be very calm. With rattle cans, that will tack quickly, keeping a wet edge on a trailer is fairly easy. A slight breeze would help keep overspray off the freshly painted areas. Prep is where all your time will be spent to insure the rust doesn't break through, blasting, then a DTM primer(Direct to metal) would be best. Still another solution would be POR-15 products. They can be brushed on, and flow out nicely. Not certain a tougher paint exists. Certainly would be a nearly permanent rust solution. I would shoot it for ya, but I doubt you would want to bring it to Omaha to do so.

Jason · « **Reply #7 on:** May 08, 2018, 07:26:12 AM »

Has anyone used that POR-15 stuff. Looks interesting. Can you paint over it with just about any topcoat?

fireman24mn · « **Reply #8 on:** May 08, 2018, 10:43:45 AM »

POR-15 is some pretty good stuff. I was also just reading about some new stuff the Martin Senior has that does the same. Napa carries it.

Plugcheck · « **Reply #9 on:** May 08, 2018, 03:51:33 PM »

POR-15 is bulletproof! Well maybe not that tough, but closer to it than any other product I have used. If you leave some residue when you seal the can back up, you will NEVER get the lid back off. I use Wal-Mart bags when closing the cans. It is a multi step process, cleaning, metal prep, then top coat. Never had rust return after using it. I know that they have top coats in colors, but I've never done that, always been on frames and such, so black is desired. POR would be awesome, but quite a bit more spendy than Rustoleum.

cv-19 · « **Reply #10 on:** May 08, 2018, 04:46:52 PM »

POR-15 is great for stopping rust. Don't get it on your hands or anything else . When it dries you cant get it off, not
even with Acetone. I have used the gloss black and it doesn't hold its shine for long . Cost over 100 dollars a gallon.

Diamond Chad · « **Reply #11 on:** May 09, 2018, 08:06:55 AM »

If its rust prep before painting look at this. Chemically converts the rust molecules into magnetite.

http://corroseal.com/

Plugcheck · « **Reply #12 on:** May 09, 2018, 08:14:40 AM »

Actually the same process as the POR product, clean with Marine prep, then metal ready(coverts rust), then coat with POR. There are a number of products out there that have the same properties, I used a product years ago called Rust-Mort, naval jelly has a product as well. Probably someone did a comparison of these, don't know. I'm not a chemist, but they really do seem to convert rust into a somewhat black primer looking substance.

Jason · « **Reply #13 on:** May 09, 2018, 10:13:07 AM »

So far i am leaning toward POR-15 on the sandblasted surface. An epoxy primer will cost me twice as much. Just not sure what to do with top coat. According to POR-15 you can top coat it with just about anything. POR-15 makes a top coat but only comes in basic colors. Wanted to keep original cream color but would likely go gloss white if I use the POR-15 top coat. I also looked into SprayMax rattle cans for primer and topcoat (highly rated) but the top coat alone would cost $500!! So looking for other options. Rustoleum?

I am open to buying a cheap sprayer. Compressor is a decent size so should be fine. Don't want to tie up Shawn's time.....busy dude!

75starflight · « **Reply #14 on:** May 09, 2018, 10:28:15 AM »

I used Rustoleum on Phoenix's current trailer and it has held up well. I used the stops rust primer and then the 2x coat rattle cans. I did knock down the rust and loose paint with a wire brush prior to priming and painting, so there was still some rust on the trailer when I laid down the primer and paint and none has come through in five years time since I painted it.

Plugcheck · « **Reply #15 on:** May 09, 2018, 11:20:00 AM »

Found this on Internet "Rust Converter, a water-based primer, contains two active ingredients: Tannic acid and an organic polymer. The first ingredient, tannic acid, reacts with iron oxide (rust) and chemically converts it to iron tannate, a dark-colored stable material."

I would do a nice power wash, wire brush/sand the loose stuff and rusty areas, hit it with some rust converter, then some quick rattle can on the bare and converted areas, then shoot a thinned Rustoleum(15% or so acetone) with a harbor freight gun(about $10 on sale). Its HVLP and comes with I think a 1.5mm tip. Quick, easy, and inexpensive. It will last -5-8 years depending on how much sunlight it gets.

aquamaniac · « **Reply #16 on:** May 10, 2018, 08:40:43 PM »

Instead of buying rattle cans for small projects, you could try these Preval Sprayers. At the Winter Workshop at Shipwreck, Scott and Ryan were showing that they use these daily instead of their serious sprayers unless they were working on a big job that warrants the cleaning effort of the equipment. Scott even sprays gelkote with these. You aren't limited to the rattle can selection of paint, you can use two part paints and the paint is a lot cheaper when you buy it by the quart.

A typical rattle can has only 4oz of paint in the can. Preval claims that each power unit will spray 16oz. You can buy these at Home Depot, or Amazon in twin packs, or 6 packs. Shipwreck buys them by the case.

The other benefit is that the air is clean and dry so you don't need to have dryers and filters on your compressed air system. I haven't had a reason to try these since learning about them, but I hope to have bought my last can of aerosol paint.

Jason · « **Reply #17 on:** May 10, 2018, 09:11:27 PM »

Interesting. I’m going to look into that.

Hyperacme · « **Reply #18 on:** May 11, 2018, 08:47:40 AM »

The gel is wore off my keel, so I'm going to try this product for repairs after hearing Scott take about them at the work shop.

Plugcheck · « **Reply #19 on:** May 11, 2018, 09:58:07 AM »

Quick, easy, and disposable, about $10.00 ea. I have used them plenty but only for small jobs. They even have the handles that attach to reduce fatigue on your trigger finger. It's possible to use for a trailer, you can keep a wet edge, similiar in scope to rattle cans. Cost wise, a harbour freight gun running a last chance filter is easier, and holds more product. Look forward to seeing the results.