Minnesota Classic Glastron Forum
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: 74CV16 on June 16, 2010, 10:49:05 PM
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(http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll238/paulholcomb/Boat121.jpg)
Homemade Splashwell......more bodywork will be done to smooth it out when I paint it this Winter.
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(http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll238/paulholcomb/Boat120.jpg)
Transom made solid
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(http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll238/paulholcomb/Boat119.jpg)
Carpet is going in
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(http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll238/paulholcomb/Boat118.jpg)
Custom made Dash
Small area of carpet sill needs to be glued and trimmed down the port side!!
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(http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll238/paulholcomb/Boat122.jpg)
Windshield end caps are back from the machine shop and are now installed, just not in this photo!
I'll take more tomorrow after I glue the rest of the carpet and install the seats
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Coming along nicely, didn't not know that started out as an I/O model. Do you plan on respraying in the original green metal flake?
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Interesting project! Must be pretty good with your fiberglass! Keep us posted as the project continues.
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Great work dude!
Love how you did the well and the dash.
Are you gonna take the remainder of the engine bay panels out?
(Either side of where the engine was)
If so, I'd consider a triangular gusset to replace what's left of em.
Not sure how structural they were, but may be beneficial due to changing the transom load with the outboard.
LOOKS GREEEEEEEEEEEEEAT!!!!!!!!
Fiberglass used to spook me. Not anymore.... after doing a ton of work with it.
The more I use it, the more I think of what I could build/customize with it :)
What did you use under the FG? Wood?
And what did you use? Mat/Cloth/BiAxial ???
Keep it up!
Looks like I'll be in a house within a month.
If my Intimidator sells, I'm gonna find a decent GT-150 hull for some frankensteining.
Where are you located???? Might be able to use your brain for some of my FG work on it :)
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Oh, hey, I might have a couple trim pieces that could clean up and finish the recess to the transom.
They are from a GT-150, for the same spot, but length might not be enough.
If you take a measurement from the transom to the backside of the rubrail extrusion, I'll check em out.
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Coming along nicely, didn't not know that started out as an I/O model. Do you plan on respraying in the original green metal flake?
I'm going to paint it Plum Metallic where it used to be Metalflake Green
Interesting project! Must be pretty good with your fiberglass! Keep us posted as the project continues.
This was my first time ever doing fiberglass. I watched a bunch of video clips online! But now that I've done it, I've picked up what not to do and the stuff that works best......
Are you gonna take the remainder of the engine bay panels out?
(Either side of where the engine was)
If so, I'd consider a triangular gusset to replace what's left of em.
Not sure how structural they were, but may be beneficial due to changing the transom load with the outboard.
What did you use under the FG? Wood?
And what did you use? Mat/Cloth/BiAxial ???
Keep it up!
Looks like I'll be in a house within a month.
If my Intimidator sells, I'm gonna find a decent GT-150 hull for some frankensteining.
Where are you located???? Might be able to use your brain for some of my FG work on it :)
Shorty, if you look by the batterty mounted centerline I have the triangle gussets built in on either side. I'll get a better picture for you.
I used 1/4" plywood, 2x2 strips, and 2x4s to build my splashwell first. I even cut my holes with the hole saw before I laid fiberglass.
In the corners and along the edges I used cloth strips about 4 inches wide and overlapped them by 2" until I had 2 layers. I used a 6oz woven cloth. I wet the board in first then laid dry cloth over it and wet over the top. I did this and waited for each layer. My final top layer in the pan of the splashwell was a piece of woven cloth cut to exact size and wetted in in the same manner as the strips with 2 layers again. I have about 3/16" thick fiberglass and the 1/4" plywood that gives everything strength. I've filled it with water and it doesn't leak!!!
As far as where I live, I live in Colorado Springs, CO and since the Minnesota guys have the best Glastron site and the fact that I don't have one here in Colorado I am a member with you! I would love to share my ideas and how I worked this fiberglass. I'll get some more pictures and I'll measure those pieces of the transom for trim. I'm not going to cut out the remainder of the engine bay walls as I'm using them as pans on either side for storage. I'll be making a Canvas curtain that will snap all the way across the back from the top to the floor to cover it all up and for easy access. My Tilt/Trim Pump will mount centerline on the transom from the inside with short lag screws.
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Nice. Good work!
I can't wait to start my next one... hopefully a keeper, but the guys know ME here so we all know how that will go.
Like Brian said to me on the phone one day..... "you're all about the build huh Shorty..." hahahahaaaa.... seems that way.
Keep it up man! Looks Great!
Maybe someday you can make a MN meet.... they are CRAZY! These guys do a great job with it!
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I'm hoping I might be down this August.....just won't be painted Purple yet as we're going to take the motor off and do that this winter.
I'm glueing the rest of the carpet and installing my seats in about an hour. Then I'll be hooking up the T/T Pump and filling the reservoir to remove air in the lines later this afternoon.
Boat goes into the water Saturday for initial splashdown since the solid transom transformation..........plus I'll get a chance to see how strong my transom and gussets are for this big Merc 1500 Tower.
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Maybe this is a dumb question but where do you use a boat in Colorado Springs? Don't see much water around. I had to ask myself "Why wouldn't he just buy a CV16 designed for an outboard?" Then I realized there are probably not many boats in CO let alone Classic Glastron's. Guess we take for granted our abundant source of old Glastron's here in MN/WI.
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Maybe this is a dumb question but where do you use a boat in Colorado Springs? Don't see much water around. I had to ask myself "Why wouldn't he just buy a CV16 designed for an outboard?" Then I realized there are probably not many boats in CO let alone Classic Glastron's. Guess we take for granted our abundant source of old Glastron's here in MN/WI.
You can't be more right! We have a couple of reservoirs and some high altitude lakes to play with. My big run is up to Nebraska to Ogalalla where Lake McConnaughy is. We go there for 2 weeks every year during 4th of July. Family reunion and what not.........
I don't have anything as far as sources for my old Glastron. I love the 70s Glastron Carlsons and have been a big fan since I was a kid.......now that I have one I have to build everything myself. I guess that's where my Navy experience comes in! I bought the CV16 SS from a guy that moved it out here from California a few years back. It sat in the sun for a couple of years and rotted everything out uncovered. I gave him $500 for the boat/trailer. Then I found a guy that lives in Denver, CO that had a '75 Starbuck that was built here in Denver and it had a '76 Merc 1500 on it that was also from the Merc Plant here in Denver. He sold the motor to me for $500 after a couple of days of trying to talk him down from $1000 that he had it listed for and he found out my background in the Navy and I served with his son! So I got the motor for more than what I could afford and am now in contact with a buddy I served with for 5 years.
Which brings me to my Frankenstein.......I went with the outboard motor because I couldn't find a complete I/O that was going to work for me. It was way out of my budget. I found a couple of posts about replacing transoms on an outboard boat and I figured if I did something similar I could replace my transom and make a solid one. I covered the holes inside and outside of the boat with fiberglass after replacing the now solid transom and there you have it. I added a piece of 2x12 cut the width of the motor well inside of the boat and mounted it solid through the transom. That part of the transom is 3.5" thick!! I then made triangle gussets out of the 2x12 and mounted it to the piece on the transom to the floor. Beneath the floor is another piece of 2x12 mounted on it's side and incorporated into the keel/stringers. All new 3/4" plywood that has been glassed is laying beneath the carpet over the keel/stringer and everything is tied into itself. I don't think I have to worry about strength on my transom at all!
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(http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll238/paulholcomb/Boat124.jpg)
(http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll238/paulholcomb/Boat125.jpg)
(http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll238/paulholcomb/Boat126.jpg)
(http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll238/paulholcomb/Boat127.jpg)
(http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll238/paulholcomb/Boat128.jpg)
(http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll238/paulholcomb/Boat129.jpg)
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Hey just make sure to check the fluid level in that (n)EverStart battery once in a while. Otherwise bad things can happen ...
(http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p286/Hyperacme/CGOAmn/BatteryBoom.jpg)
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Looking good! Are you the one I took all the measurements for on the seat frames?
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yes Jason,
I'm actually building the correct seats right now as we speak out of Red Oak and it was getting expensive and time consuming. So......I threw some cash at Overton's and got these to run for a couple of years and I'll finish the original style seats a little at a time. They don't look too bad!
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What I'm looking for is some Rubrail Insert to put on my boat. Do you guys have a good source for me to get some?
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also.......
How does a Trim gauge work? What is it reading?
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Back on the engine transom bracket on the port side there is a switch kinda like a light dimmer switch with a lever on it that sends the signal to the gauge to show the the driver the trim angel while under way, also lets you know when the engine is fully tilted up or all the way down with out having to look back at the motor.
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I found where that is on the Starboard side of the trim system. Wondered what that was for!
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Wow
Lots of work but its paying off nicely!
Question about the seats...did you modify/cut the bases so you could slide them over further? If so you must have removed the vinyl, cut the wood and reattached it? I am thinking bout doing this.
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These bases are a High Impact Plastic so they were somewhat easy to modify. You can see where I marked them with a Sharpie. I took 2 inches of heighth (sp) off and then measured from the top 5" down for the outboard side and 8" down on the inboard side then marked close to the center and drew my lines. I cut a piece of cardboard first to fit it to the shape of the floor and to make a template. Cut it with a jigsaw and used 3 L-brackets purchased at Home Depot for decking. drilled my holes through the bases and bolted the brackets on first, then placed the bace down to the floor and screwed it down with stainless wood screws. Bolted on the seats and done!!! You can see where I made a few mistakes but since they're only a temporary fix until I get the wooden OEM style seats done, they'll suffice!
I floated the boat yesterday and she floats......but until I get the synchronization done on the motor I'm not going very fast!!!! So now I have to learn how to do that on this big Merc 1500. My local boat shop might make some money off me this week.......
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Local shop, being the only one in a 50 mile radius, won't be able to touch my boat until Mid July! So I'm forced to attempt to do a Link and Sync on my own. I have to get it done by Monday so I have my work cut out for me and since I don't have a lake that isn't wakeless in a 50 mile radius I'm going to attempt this in a stocktank full of water. Here goes........
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This is from ClamsCanino. Worked great for my 73 1500.
Manual specs are different for each, but this is close enough to get them
all REAL close. This assumes nothing is broken or "wrong" with it. This also
assumes that the timing pointer is properly adjusted (if adjustable) to
accurately read TDC of the #1 piston.
This basic procedure will work for all the 2/3/4/6 cylinder inlines from
1960 to 1988. It's not for the newer 3 and 4 cylinder loopers.
Engine off
Disconnect throttle cable
Pull throttle arm to full throttle and verify carbs open fully. Adjust main
throttle stop so that the carbs are JUST hitting thier own little throttle
stops. The idea here is that you want the screw stop and NOT the carbs
acting as the "final stop" for your throttle lever.
Return the throttle to idle, carbs should be closed. Set all idle screws to
2 turns out from lightly seated.
Remove all plugs except #1, hook a timing light to #1. Then follow the
narritive.
When the throttle is in the idle position the carbs should be fully closed
and the ignition retarded. It is the amount of retardation that determines
your idle speed and is set later with the idle stop screw.
Timing Event One - throttle pickup.
As the throttle is advanced, the spark timing advances toward TDC and then
to before TDC. As the timing is just passing TDC the 1st (minor)throttle
pickup should hit and start to open the carbs. Use the timing light. Adjust
the tang or trigger screw to make this a reality. All of them are spec'd
different, but if the 1st pickup hits at 3-4 degrees BTDC advance - you win.
Use the timing light with a friend cranking it to complete this setting.
Timing Event Two - max advance.
As you continue to advance the throttle the timing will advance while the
carbs slowly open a bit more. The next adjustment is max advance, this is
the point where the distibutor (or trigger) can advance no more. Set the
max-advance stop to 21 degrees for "direct charge" inlines and 34 degrees
for the older crossflows. Use the light, - err to the side of caution.
Right after max advance, further throttle motion should cause the second
throttle pickup to hit and open the carbs to full. You already set that -now
verify it.
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Thanks Dan,
I haven't messed with the carbs or the distributor so I'm assuming everything should be close. It simply came off of one boat and was installed onto mine. Different controls though they are similar. So I'm thinking it's going to be easy.
How long did it take for you to Link and Sync yours?
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I really don't remember how long it took, just that it was worth every bit of time. I had a bog going from idle to WOT. There's no bog now! I would guess it took an hour or so. I may be way off on that though.
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I really don't remember how long it took, just that it was worth every bit of time. I had a bog going from idle to WOT. There's no bog now! I would guess it took an hour or so. I may be way off on that though.
Hey Jim
Maybe that has something to do with your bogging problem on the SSV?
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Hey Jim
Maybe that has something to do with your bogging problem on the SSV?
Thanks for thinking of me Ross,
I have already printed it out & discussed with Steve.
We will be pulling carbs & checking jets as soon as Steve gets caught-up with all his projects.
I really hate to bother him when his boat is still in winter storage :P
Also, will check timing & sync.
Jim
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OK guys, I've sych'd my linkage and I've checked my timing......my air/fuel mixture was off and was a little skinny! I turned them out 1/2 turn each fatter and now it jumps out of the water when I hit the throttle!
So suddenly I'm onto the next issue.......
I found some gouges in the hull along the keel of the bow. They look like they're from the PO not loading properly and scraping the trailer, or possibly running aground on a rock somewhere. They penetrate at least halfway through and I have exposed and damaged fiberglass showing. This is where I'm sure some water is leaking through over the course of a day. So here's my question:
Can I mix up some Peanut Butter with fiberglass strands and use that as a patch that can be sanded down?
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I have done some patching on the underside with a simple resin filler. There is a local sailing shop that had a compound in a little 2 ounce tube. You mix the entire tube and use a squeege to fill int he gouge.
It depends on how wide it is, but you might look into a patch / filler for the underside. You don't have to be so specific on matching colors down there.
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OK guys, I've sych'd my linkage and I've checked my timing......my air/fuel mixture was off and was a little skinny! I turned them out 1/2 turn each fatter and now it jumps out of the water when I hit the throttle!
So suddenly I'm onto the next issue.......
I found some gouges in the hull along the keel of the bow. They look like they're from the PO not loading properly and scraping the trailer, or possibly running aground on a rock somewhere. They penetrate at least halfway through and I have exposed and damaged fiberglass showing. This is where I'm sure some water is leaking through over the course of a day. So here's my question:
Can I mix up some Peanut Butter with fiberglass strands and use that as a patch that can be sanded down?
,,what year is that boat????here are some pics of my boat,,1979 cvx16 carlson and a 74 hydrostrem vector
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yes Michael mine is a '74 CV16.
So after purchasing a new water pump kit because mine puked in the middle of the lake we changed it out at the camping spot at the lake and when I put it back together I forgot to put it in FWD gear and somehow disengaged Neutral and Reverse all together. I only had Forward! I trailered it and will be pulling it apart sometime this week. We spent 10 days in Ogallala, NE at Lake McConaughy. We're tired, sun burned, and covered with sand from the beachy shores. I'll post pictures of the "TubToy" on the lake in a couple of days.
She ran like the dickens when she was running though........but I need some knowledge about something. She was running 52mph at 4200 rpm. Am I propped wrong or is there something on the topend that I'm missing?
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Did you over heat or notice no telltale/water before it over heated?
10 day vacation...nice. Sounds like you got some use out of the boat and had fun.
I have done some bottom patching on 2 of my boats and used some two part stuff made for below the water line too. Fairly easy to work with. Gets very hard. I have never "finished" it off though. Might have gotten it from West Marine or Boat U.S. when I worked there.
Seems like you might benefit from some props experimentation too.
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Roscoe....
It started running differently so I looked back and noticed no water from the tattle-tale so I shut her down. I don't know how long it was running without the water pressure but I'm sure it wasn't too long. I checked compression afterwards and I still have 135 lbs acrossed the board so I'm sure it's all good.
I think I do need to do some prop changing, but I think there's some more top end that I'm not getting as well. I think it's time to get it into the shop and let them Sync it a bit more to ensure we're using everything she's got!
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Good thing you noticed right away. Were you far from shore? Did you motor back or paddle?
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Something that many of us outboard owners overlook sometimes is proper 'pee hole' maintenence. And the hoses/plumbing related to such.
I experienced a blockage awhile back. Freaked out, naturally. But the Mayor of Snake Island helped me with a piece of old bicycle brake/shift cable he keeps on board just for such an occasion.
Many folks on the island swear by his skills, although I'm not entirely sure he actually posesses a Doctorate degree in urology. It's probly more of an honorary title ...
In a nutshell: Make sure your peehole fitting is clean & freshen up yer hose(s).
That is all.
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Good thing you noticed right away. Were you far from shore? Did you motor back or paddle?
I attempted to paddle but I ended up getting a tow by a good citizen on the water! I always ask if someone needs help for that very reason, I'm glad I was able to find it in my moment of need.......