Author Topic: Replacing the Transom Without Splitting the Boat CV16  (Read 2926 times)

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Offline ford-bldr

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Replacing the Transom Without Splitting the Boat CV16
« on: October 03, 2019, 04:53:44 AM »
Why would you want to do that??

Well...
Sometime during it's life, someone "Tabbed" the hull halves together. I mean this sucker is TABBED.
I really looked hard into how to reverse this but It would result in more damage to a boat that was already destined for the dumpster. (For most folks, anyway)

Some of the areas are 1/4" thick with resin. In the corners and in the bow, it looks like they took a wad of wetted fiberglass and jammed it in there. Upside? It's gotta be more solid..

I figured "What the hell - got nothing to lose" and attacked it with an oscillating saw - Chris/cross zig/zag. 
Then Dig Dig Chisel Chisel.
Repeat / Rest, Stretch, Straighten neck Repeat

Some non-rotted spots were attached to the f-glass pretty well.
Also, How am I going to reach that wood, both rotted and solid just behind the well?

When you pour a transom you have to pour from somewhere above... Ok, "Nothin to lose" I decided to surgically ::) cut the trim and the top of the transom at the well. I figured that I could replace what would be a cap and glue and fill it.

I had already decided to paint the boat so It would be covered anyway, however if someone else did this, You would have to look hard to see it under a mounted motor.

I have a bunch of BIG drill bits short and long. I have them down on the shore and use them around the docks and pilings.
Got out the wrist buster 1/2" drill...
I used the short one first, (that helped in lining up the long ones.),  then the longer ones (16" or so).
I ended up ramming the longer ones down along the outside transom glass.

A little more yanking and pulling cutting chiseling etc and it came out.
I ground the stuck stuff off the fiberglass. I figured that I could slide the new transom boards up -in and behind the well but it didn't work that way....

« Last Edit: October 15, 2019, 08:14:54 AM by ford-bldr »
Seems all my hobbies require Alcohol and Fossil Fuels...

8' Glen-L MiniMaxed Hydro
16' Checkmate Merc 150
22' Pachanga 350 Mag
22' Velocity 350 Mag
28' Velocity 600 hp Merlin block
20' Century Arabian 454 V Drive
17' Laser tunnel hull
16'CV16 Project

https://www.supermotors.net/users/Snakoil

Offline ford-bldr

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Re: Replacing the Transom Without Splitting the Boat CV16
« Reply #1 on: October 03, 2019, 05:24:37 AM »
More pics
Seems all my hobbies require Alcohol and Fossil Fuels...

8' Glen-L MiniMaxed Hydro
16' Checkmate Merc 150
22' Pachanga 350 Mag
22' Velocity 350 Mag
28' Velocity 600 hp Merlin block
20' Century Arabian 454 V Drive
17' Laser tunnel hull
16'CV16 Project

https://www.supermotors.net/users/Snakoil

Offline RedOctober89

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Re: Replacing the Transom Without Splitting the Boat CV16
« Reply #2 on: October 03, 2019, 08:24:26 AM »
nice! looks good! You gotta do what you gotta do. Splitting that would be a nightmare.

I've seen some people on YouTube use a chainsaw to clean out the transom that way.
Sounds pretty sketchy to me..
Andrew C.
1989 Glastron Carlson 23 CSS 350 Mag - Red October
Follow the project on Instagram: redoctober89

Offline Hyperacme

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Re: Replacing the Transom Without Splitting the Boat CV16
« Reply #3 on: October 03, 2019, 09:35:14 AM »
Before I did mine, I talked to a local guy that did it in two pieces.
He removed old wood and dug out wood between splash well and transom from bottom (didn't cut off top of transom) then wedged one piece up there and fitted another under it. He did a nice job and you really couldn't tell it was two piece unless he had told me.
He did it (guessing) ten or more years ago .. and is still running.

If you can do it .. I think pouring would be your best option.
But not sure if it would work, the way the transom isn't attached to upper parts of sides ..
As long as you have things apart, lay some 1808 fiberglass on hull.
Mine is cracked and have heard stories of other CV & Sidewinder hull's cracking.

CV16 with two piece transom ..

Offline ford-bldr

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Re: Replacing the Transom Without Splitting the Boat CV16
« Reply #4 on: October 03, 2019, 10:32:22 AM »
RedOctober89,

Chainsaw !!!???
I'll bet they didn't have to sand the inside of the transom too much!

I'm happy with the results - considering.
The large drill bits just bumped along the fiberglass. I was a little timid at first, but then realized that I could hold it against the glass real hard and feel it chew.
Seems all my hobbies require Alcohol and Fossil Fuels...

8' Glen-L MiniMaxed Hydro
16' Checkmate Merc 150
22' Pachanga 350 Mag
22' Velocity 350 Mag
28' Velocity 600 hp Merlin block
20' Century Arabian 454 V Drive
17' Laser tunnel hull
16'CV16 Project

https://www.supermotors.net/users/Snakoil

Offline ford-bldr

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Re: Replacing the Transom Without Splitting the Boat CV16
« Reply #5 on: October 03, 2019, 11:37:20 AM »
Hyperacme,

That Plum CV is gorgeous 8)  ... But I'm biased...

I did a lot of research on pouring and removing the outside of the transom with the curves didn't look like a good alternative. Dollars, vertical curves, finish work etc.

I've already done this and yep - had to do it in two pieces.

I had 2 big chunks left and used them to make a template using the spacing of the 2 holes. That's when I figured out that I would have to do it in 2 pieces - even the cardboard at about 1/8" thick wouldn't fit.

I had concerns about 2 pieces with the forces that the transom gets.
One night a couple of buddies over beers in the garage helped me come up with what I thought would be a viable solution.
By the way one buddy is an engineer / boater and the other is a wooden boat guy who used to own one of those little Glaspars.
Discussion ensued, beer consumed, the notepad came out and theories began.

2 opposing scarf joints.1 on each layer going in opposite directions. One high, one low.
Not the complicated woodworkers kind but a simple 45 degree epoxied back together.
The whole thing is entombed in epoxy and mat anyway.

Ok, what direction should the joints be on each board?   More beer. I looked up "forces on the transom from an outboard" More stuff on extensions than anything else.
Back to the pad. I scanned that drawing and cleaned it up a bit.

I had tons of these 11 ply plywood scrap sheets, over the years, that came from overseas in shipping crates. They were sent to be used as ramps for the equipment. The equipment weighed 3000#. I was impressed.

These were seconds and some were quite chewed on the edges. The ones that I assume came from the middle were prime.
I had one of these outside for 10 years as a gate for a dog pen and the only thing that happened is the outer layers started to check.
So I used the last good one I had for the transom.

I decided to add a layer of 1/2" CDX as a single piece to the inside to tie everything together. (1/2" CDX - I think that's a Glastron Spec)
Seems all my hobbies require Alcohol and Fossil Fuels...

8' Glen-L MiniMaxed Hydro
16' Checkmate Merc 150
22' Pachanga 350 Mag
22' Velocity 350 Mag
28' Velocity 600 hp Merlin block
20' Century Arabian 454 V Drive
17' Laser tunnel hull
16'CV16 Project

https://www.supermotors.net/users/Snakoil

Offline Hyperacme

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Re: Replacing the Transom Without Splitting the Boat CV16
« Reply #6 on: October 03, 2019, 12:29:02 PM »
"Chainsaw !!!???   I'll bet they didn't have to sand the inside of the transom too much!"

On mine and other Glastron & G/C's there's a heavy resin (resin plate) between outer transom glass and transom wood, and also one on splash well side. Stuff is hard as cement and even a flap grinder takes some effort to remove. Don't think a drill bit would even scratch it !

Don't remember how he said he fitted wood together, but I think it was .. like "L" shapes top and upside down "L" on bottom ..So there was over lap and screwed together .. Was a long time ago ..

After thinking it over .. as you said " forces that the transom gets " I just split the deck / hull.
I course I didn't have the problems with past repairs.

I've been trying to sell my drain hole on Craigslist for years .. But every body try's to "Low Ball" me .. This is a original G/C drain hole and worth the asking price !

Offline ford-bldr

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Re: Replacing the Transom Without Splitting the Boat CV16
« Reply #7 on: October 03, 2019, 03:08:56 PM »
Darn,
I just burnt my drain hole!
Seems all my hobbies require Alcohol and Fossil Fuels...

8' Glen-L MiniMaxed Hydro
16' Checkmate Merc 150
22' Pachanga 350 Mag
22' Velocity 350 Mag
28' Velocity 600 hp Merlin block
20' Century Arabian 454 V Drive
17' Laser tunnel hull
16'CV16 Project

https://www.supermotors.net/users/Snakoil

Offline ford-bldr

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Re: Replacing the Transom Without Splitting the Boat CV16
« Reply #8 on: October 04, 2019, 05:58:51 AM »
You're right about that layer of resin. Mine was solid except for the self induced chisel spot that I caused.
I ground and filled that area. (see pic of hole above.)

I lost a lot of pics, so the exact sequence has some pics missing. These are pics that I scarfed off my phone.

I did the same "Thru Hull" 2x4 clamp method on the first board that you show in the pics. I ran one top to bottom through the 2 drain holes to clamp the upper and lower halves as one.

I did some wedge 2x4s from the floor to the transom also.

I pretty much took advantage of every Swiss cheese hole that caused the damage in the first place. I figured I was going to fill them with epoxy anyway.
I used West System Epoxy on the whole transom process.

I use Total Boat now because of this guy.
All the years I've been farting around boats, he'll forget more tricks than I will ever know.
Andy is wise beyond his years: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zka0i0SOGd8&t=2s

Back to the transom

Two things that I've noticed with these boats that has been brought up by others (Besides being well built and great design)

1. Is the thin bottom at the bilge / transom area.
2. The rot is always the same on every replacement thread on relation to the bilge and well drains. - All the other holes depend on the due diligence or lack thereof on sealing the holes they made.

I noticed the thin areas when I had my head in the bilge and a trouble light was on the floor.
Now don't get me wrong I know you can have very strong fiberglass that you can read a newspaper through but this is 1975 technology.
If you've been in any "Boat Factory" it's not very impressive.

Given the growth that Glastron enjoyed during that decade, production was a priority and "Total Quality / Continuous Improvement" hadn't hit our shores yet. Maybe there were inconsistencies here and there.                                                                                    On the whole though,these are better built than some modern boats.
Boats that were not meant to last more than 10 years are going on their 5th decade.

On to the Transom fix:
The drain hole is up off the bilge floor to compensate for the bilge / transom transition.
Thin areas beneath where the new wood is located.
Epoxy / Kitty Hair /Cabosil /Wood Flour in different combos.

The 11 ply was sealed, then "glued" to the transom with slightly thickened epoxy / cab mix and 2x4 clamped for a couple of days.
Each layer was troweled with a 1/16" notched trowel epoxy cabo WF mix. (PB mix)

The area below the wood at the transom / bilge joint was slathered with the pb mix first and then the Kitty Hair mix was mashed in the area with a 1x1" stick, fingers (Ouch!) and a big ole screwdriver. Then I mashed the PB mix over top.
With the epoxy, the working times are longer so I could take my time.

I'll cover the drain later. enough talk.









« Last Edit: October 04, 2019, 06:01:32 AM by ford-bldr »
Seems all my hobbies require Alcohol and Fossil Fuels...

8' Glen-L MiniMaxed Hydro
16' Checkmate Merc 150
22' Pachanga 350 Mag
22' Velocity 350 Mag
28' Velocity 600 hp Merlin block
20' Century Arabian 454 V Drive
17' Laser tunnel hull
16'CV16 Project

https://www.supermotors.net/users/Snakoil

Offline ford-bldr

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Re: Replacing the Transom Without Splitting the Boat CV16
« Reply #9 on: August 27, 2020, 03:21:22 PM »
I thought I'd finish this up with my bilge drain.

3 things:
That aft part of the hull was very thin ahead of the transom.
From the inside, the drain hole was about 3/4" too high.
Those thru hull brass tubes always seem to be leak / rot agents.

I figured I'd kill 3 birds with 60 Continuous Improvement Processes. (Like any good business might :)

I'd previously glued the inside tube (1" PVC) with Plasti-struct.

I built up the floor with a sheet of 1/2 inch divinycell scrap with roving on the bottom and a couple of layers of 1708 on top.
Overkill maybe but it was all scrap so I put them to good use

The inside diameter matches the garboard assembly.
The high quality Chinese garboard assembly had some brass flashing that needed to be cleaned up.
I had to trim the outside end (Inside the transom) to match the depth of the garboard assembly. A Dremel was perfect for this.

3M 5200 slathered to taste.

I trimmed the pvc inside to match the new bilge floor and painted the bilge and the floor wit Interlux Bilge Paint.
Seems all my hobbies require Alcohol and Fossil Fuels...

8' Glen-L MiniMaxed Hydro
16' Checkmate Merc 150
22' Pachanga 350 Mag
22' Velocity 350 Mag
28' Velocity 600 hp Merlin block
20' Century Arabian 454 V Drive
17' Laser tunnel hull
16'CV16 Project

https://www.supermotors.net/users/Snakoil

Offline Glastronjohn18

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Re: Replacing the Transom Without Splitting the Boat CV16
« Reply #10 on: August 27, 2020, 06:51:28 PM »
Nice Job! I like how you rebuilt the bilge drain.
John
'80 CVX 18 - Survivor Class
'78 CVX 18
'76 V 225 -   Bal Harbor
'80 V195XL
'86 CVX 18- And '86 Makes 3