Author Topic: CV16 leaker .. (Read 24905 times)

Hyperacme · « **Reply #80 on:** August 29, 2018, 05:19:18 PM »

Cut floor out today, bottom of wood was coated with resin, up to about splash well then thinned out, where it was needed most.
First two pictures …

Three of the screws down center of floor missed stringer by at least two inches …
You can see them at bottom of picture #2

Hard to see crack in pictures, but could feel floor flex when pushed on, other side feels solid when you push/stand on it.

Hyperacme · « **Reply #81 on:** August 29, 2018, 05:37:10 PM »

First picture ..Hard to see but there a crack that must be about a foot long ..

Second picture is where crack is …

Third picture is where big deep crack is on bottom of hull, put a lot of weight on it and couldn't see any cracks, lot's of flex, but no crack.
Easy to see where crack is down from it (Red line).

Found one lone floatation foam log under left side, only water logged on bottom, about an inch ..

dorelse · « **Reply #82 on:** August 29, 2018, 06:30:45 PM »

Ok, so the damage is contained and fixable. Good news I'd say!

Hyperacme · « **Reply #83 on:** August 29, 2018, 07:00:40 PM »

At the meet Jerry Selner told me he had done one (CV16) for a customer, said he ripped up floor and laid down a sheet of fiberglass.
The stuff with mat on one side and chopped strand on the other .. I'm looking on Express Comp. site but not sure of name/number for it ..
He didn't say anything about grinding out and patching outer hull, but I'm going to do that also.
Plus cutting out another foot forward and back to transom, to make sure crack is repaired.

I DO NOT want to ever do this again ! So .. Thinking out loud here ..

Fiberglass then add one or two bulk head / cross members per side off stringer to add support .. Like Ed's hull (Picture 05).
Shape a 2x4 and screw floor to it.
OR ..
Core with some composite stuff ..
Or ..
Core and bulk head / cross members.

Opinions welcome !

Terry_Curran · « **Reply #84 on:** August 29, 2018, 07:43:10 PM »

Quote from: Hyperacme on August 29, 2018, 07:00:40 PM

At the meet Jerry Selner told me he had done one (CV16) for a customer, said he ripped up floor and laid down a sheet of fiberglass.
The stuff with mat on one side and chopped strand on the other .. I'm looking on Express Comp. site but not sure of name/number for it ..

The mat you’re referring to is 1708 or 1808.

Good luck Gregg!

Terry.

Oldfishguy · « **Reply #85 on:** August 29, 2018, 07:45:11 PM »

Nice job digging into this.

I’m not sure you need the gussets, but as long as your there you might as well. The additional weight is minimal. Screw and glass everything to the new floor and structure and I think your good to go. My thoughts are to not overthink this and just patch the crack in and out with new glass and resin and ride on. You probably had a slight flex in your floor and/or the center beam, and then caught a big wave just right for a heavy stress moment. Make everything solid with glass and resin again andd move on. The speed your moving you could test it out this fall yet.

Best of luck.

Hyperacme · « **Reply #86 on:** August 29, 2018, 08:08:36 PM »

The 1708 or 1808 (Thanks Terry) would probably be enough …
Thinking over build just to be 101 % sure.

LOL … Thinking I'll be lucky to be done by spring 2019 !

Plugcheck · « **Reply #87 on:** August 30, 2018, 07:45:20 AM »

Well, you have the issues defined, the tear out mostly complete, and a basic plan to make the repairs, I'd guess you'll be able to make it on the water yet this year. Lets see, when does construction season end and winter begin in MN, October 15th? Just kidding, one possible issue you might entertain is supporting the boat hull before laying up the glass and wood components. If it is just sitting on the trailer, it may be flexing the hull in a manner you wouldn't desire.

Hyperacme · « **Reply #88 on:** August 30, 2018, 08:38:26 AM »

Good question .. At first I was thinking about putting down fiberglass, then putting some weight on top … Now I'm thinking put pressure on bottom with a floor jack .. Or maybe weight on top and pressure on bottom ?

My trailer has bunks that are between the two outer stakes (first picture bunk-crack1) and crack is red circle.
Bunks extend up to one foot from dash (Second picture bunkarea1).
So affected area is kind of hanging … For lack of better term.

I have a picture of an older CV16, hard to say exact year but older then 1973, which shows 3 stringers.
Again hard to say .. but look original.

Hoping for a reply from Shawn. He had to repair a crack on his CV23.

Hyperacme · « **Reply #89 on:** August 30, 2018, 08:44:54 AM »

Trailer

fireman24mn · « **Reply #90 on:** August 30, 2018, 09:47:23 AM »

I would leave it on the trailer just let some pressure off the winch stand so its not pulling it. You could apply very light pressure just to get rid of any sag, if there is any. Not a big span so probably isn't.

I would just rebuild it like it was. I am guessing there is just some bad wood in there or a poor prior repair and that is why it failed. Pull the floor see what the stringers look like inside. Then grind out a large area 3 times the size of the crack. Grind the actual crack down until it is really thin where it is almost threw (both sides) then feather it out from there to about 3 times the width or more. Then layer out layers of glass starting out with a small pieces that just cover the crack. Then keep getting bigger. Your repair area should be about 7-8 inches wide total so 3.5 to 4 inches on each side of the crack. You can get away with a little smaller on the outside if you like since you will have to color match the area. If possible save a big chip of the gelcoat so you can bring to to be color matched, or bring the boat there before you start grinding and have them match the gel.

Let me know if you have other questions or give me a call.

Hyperacme · « **Reply #91 on:** August 30, 2018, 02:24:00 PM »

My CV only has a single stringer down the center, which seems to be solid. Entirely wrapped in fiberglass with resin dripping down sides.
Pulled up floor under splash well while replacing transom and stringer wood was still solid there. Problem was .. where they made the V for the bilge bowl, they just drilled two hole and never sealed them. Didn't help that holes were 2 inches off the bottom of the floor.

OK .. grind out crack on both sides, build up with FG patches, then lay a sheet of 1708 or 1808 over top of repair.
Joe .. do you stock an of the 1708 / 1808 ? Or is it special order ?
Maybe glass a piece of wood in the pocket of the stake, running front to back and screw to floor.

Gel color isn't a big consern as my hull bottom looks like chit. Any light blue will work.

Thank You ..

Now I'm trying to figure out flap wheels .. Type 21 / Type 29 / etc.