Minnesota Classic Glastron Forum
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Rosscoe on July 22, 2017, 05:07:58 PM
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Does anyone locally in Minnesota have a gimbal bearing pulled? Not the slide hammer type. I have Joes slide and the bearing is not budging.
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I think you can make your own. Look around online.
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I did the 'loan a tool' from AutoZone for an axle puller then made my own puller. You can use all-thread to go through into the transom with big washers to grab the gimbal bearing and pull it out. The slide hammer didn't work for me either.
This did it...lots of PB Blaster, tighten slowly and it started coming out.
Pictures are here Ross:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/6ygGnGLSd9FY5At52 (https://photos.app.goo.gl/6ygGnGLSd9FY5At52)
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I did the 'loan a tool' from AutoZone for an axle puller then made my own puller. You can use all-thread to go through into the transom with big washers to grab the gimbal bearing and pull it out. The slide hammer didn't work for me either.
This did it...lots of PB Blaster, tighten slowly and it started coming out.
Pictures are here Ross:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/6ygGnGLSd9FY5At52 (https://photos.app.goo.gl/6ygGnGLSd9FY5At52)
Unfortunately, mine is not torn down to the level yours is in the pics and I dont want to go there. lol
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I believe the idea is still valid even if your bell housing remains installed. Use longer all thread rods and center over the pivot points and it should square up nicely. Constant pressure, some penetrating oil, time, and a few taps should get it motivated to come out. On a slight tangent from this ide, does it seem odd the new gymbal bearings do not require any grease?
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Attempted a threaded rod set up today and stripped the threads on the rod. Wth?
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What size all thread did ya have? If single, I'd use 1/2", if you had two, then 3/8" should suffice. Most all thread is fairly soft, but you can special order both higher strength and finer thread stuff.
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Attempted a threaded rod set up today and stripped the threads on the rod. Wth?
Didn't some older ones have a snap ring to lock the gimbal in place? Any chance that's what's holding you up?
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What size all thread did ya have? If single, I'd use 1/2", if you had two, then 3/8" should suffice. Most all thread is fairly soft, but you can special order both higher strength and finer thread stuff.
It was 3/4 dia
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Didn't some older ones have a snap ring to lock the gimbal in place? Any chance that's what's holding you up?
None of the vids I watched showed removing anything. I was thinking the same thing.
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Phoenix has the snap ring in front of the gimbal bearing. What a PITA that was to get out. good thing I was changing the bellows, because that was the only way I was able to get the snap ring out.
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If I remember right my 18 had the snap ring as well. It was a PITA to get out.
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I bought one of these from ebay a few years ago, used it several times:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Boat-Alpha-Bravo-Omc-Gimbal-Bearing-Puller-Remover-/270696993312?hash=item3f06cc5220:g:WBkAAMXQUmFSfQVL&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Boat-Alpha-Bravo-Omc-Gimbal-Bearing-Puller-Remover-/270696993312?hash=item3f06cc5220:g:WBkAAMXQUmFSfQVL&vxp=mtr)
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I bought one of these from ebay a few years ago, used it several times:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Boat-Alpha-Bravo-Omc-Gimbal-Bearing-Puller-Remover-/270696993312?hash=item3f06cc5220:g:WBkAAMXQUmFSfQVL&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Boat-Alpha-Bravo-Omc-Gimbal-Bearing-Puller-Remover-/270696993312?hash=item3f06cc5220:g:WBkAAMXQUmFSfQVL&vxp=mtr)
I have this gimbal tool also. Worked great after I removed the PITA snap ring. I wish I would not have reinstalled that snap ring when I was done.
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Rich?
Snap ring on an 88 alpha?
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Rich?
Snap ring on an 88 alpha?
Shouldn't be. I've seen them on really old transom assemblies, like pre-alpha. I think my '67 had a snap ring and the bearing had a shim foil around it. The bearings weren't pressed in like they are on Alpha and newer.
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I was hoping that was an older design.
SOB must just be REALLY stuck!
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My 86 did not have a snap ring. My gimbal came out pretty easily with a slide hammer though.
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It's getting very frustrating
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Here is a link to the discontinued tool. https://sme4.safe-order.net/mercstuff/snapringpliers.htm Provides some insight as to what and when this ring exists, and confirms there is no need to put it back in if you are using the new bearing without grease channel. Just a suggestion, maybe swing by the local Harbor Freight and pick up a set of the long nose pliers. Perfrom a bit of surgery on the tips to fit the snap ring holes and give that a shot. As for puller, I use a slide hammer with a 12lb weight, most are 5 lbs. It really motivates parts rather well compared to my smaller slide hammer. Hard to believe the threads pulled off a 3/4 threaded rod, you would think you could pull the engine through that hole with that much force.
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My arms are still sore.
A 12 pounder might help. I am not sure I can justify buying another tool right now.
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I am sure you tried penetrating oil but if you didn't try the ATF/Acetone mixture give it a whirl.
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Not sure what your slide hammer looks like, but mine has a solid 5/8" rod threaded on one end, so the weight can come off. Anyway, you could fashion something with say barbell weights or similar? Length of cable or chain and a sledgehammer? D9 Cat? Sounds like ya got a real tough one this time.
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Or just replace the entire gimbal housing...... Engine is still out right?
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I'd order that little socket tool to remove the gimbal and get down to the bearing if you haven't already.
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Phoenix has the snap ring in front of the gimbal bearing. What a PITA that was to get out. good thing I was changing the bellows, because that was the only way I was able to get the snap ring out.
Yup. I had the same situation on the V174SS that Nehemiah has now. Had I not been doing bellows, it would have been a pain to figure out.
Oh, hey everyone :)
(I'm lurking before I start ranting on this CVX16SS I snagged.)
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My arms are still sore.
A 12 pounder might help. I am not sure I can justify buying another tool right now.
I have a big slide hammer if you want to stop by and borrow it.
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I'm about to suggest something that could get you hurt. If you use this idea be smart about it. I don't want anyone to get hurt using some redneck persuasion.
Attach a pulling strap/hoist/come along/heavy rope/or whatever you have from a big tree or other stationary solid object to the back side of your side hammer. Pull the boat away from the stationary object to get a decent amount of tension on the hammer. Hang a blanket over the strap to help with the whiplash. You might even want to tie off the jaw side of the hammer to something in the bilge with a short rope in the event the bearing and pulling device are under enough tension to shoot out of the transom assembly when it finally lets go. Do not look into the bearing area while it is under tension. Start beating on it. Good luck
I'm totally fine of you guys want to flame me. It is a crazy idea.
Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk
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LOL I saw a similar setup on YouTube.
Jason the motor is in the boat I did use some PB Blaster anything to caustic I guess I was a little concerned it might eat the bellows.
Doran what tool are you referring to specifically?
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How big is your slide hammer Shawn?
Another thing I saw on YouTube I'm a try next the guy drilled a bunch of holes in the bearing and it kind of fell apart. Oh that won't work I would need pretty long drill bits
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I would guess the tool that Doran is suggesting is the bellhousing pivot bolts tool, has splines on one side, and hex on the other to fit into a socket. Those bolts are what the drive tilts on.
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Pic
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I would guess the tool that Doran is suggesting is the bellhousing pivot bolts tool, has splines on one side, and hex on the other to fit into a socket. Those bolts are what the drive tilts on.
Oh yeah I am familiar with it. I've been in the put back together mod. I'd hate to have to take anymore apart. If I could get it into a shop and get it pulled and one reinstalled in one visit I'd gladly pay for that
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Can you get a Sawzall in there to at least cut the inner race out?
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Don't cut through the inner shoulder.
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Sawsall....i don't think I could get in there.
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Well anything is possible, so a sawzall might do the job. The bearing race is going to be hard, like a Rockwell HRC 50 hard. I'd try this type of blade, should be long enough. Try to keep it cool and take your time. Once you get through most if not all of it, it should pop right out. Cut straight down, easiest way to apply pressure without wearing you out.
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Hmmmm. I assume the shoulder Tim mentioned is what the bearing is pressed up against. I imagine that shoulder isn't that much smaller than the outer race but I guess I wouldn't be sawing that far out. Great. I love cutting hardened steel.
I might try putting some dumbbells on their first.
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I have this gimbal tool also. Worked great after I removed the PITA snap ring. I wish I would not have reinstalled that snap ring when I was done.
So how does this grab the bearing?
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I'm about to suggest something that could get you hurt. If you use this idea be smart about it. I don't want anyone to get hurt using some redneck persuasion.
Attach a pulling strap/hoist/come along/heavy rope/or whatever you have from a big tree or other stationary solid object to the back side of your side hammer. Pull the boat away from the stationary object to get a decent amount of tension on the hammer. Hang a blanket over the strap to help with the whiplash. You might even want to tie off the jaw side of the hammer to something in the bilge with a short rope in the event the bearing and pulling device are under enough tension to shoot out of the transom assembly when it finally lets go. Do not look into the bearing area while it is under tension. Start beating on it. Good luck
I'm totally fine of you guys want to flame me. It is a crazy idea.
Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk
I'm not sure if I love this cause it's so awesome or cause it's crazy or cause it's not even the worst kind of crap I've done.
Well played :) Get her done by any means. Love it.
(But yeah, be careful)
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So how does this grab the bearing?
The handle on the end rotates spreading the end that Inserts through the bearing. Then there is a nut that slowly pulls the bearing out.
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Yeah Ross...Tim said the tool I was referring to. Good luck!
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Mine is 12 lbs. Here is a link to the one I have
https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-25922-Dent-Puller-Set/dp/B008985VO0/ref=sr_1_16?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1501095970&sr=1-16&keywords=slide+hammer (https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-25922-Dent-Puller-Set/dp/B008985VO0/ref=sr_1_16?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1501095970&sr=1-16&keywords=slide+hammer)
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I bit the bullet and ordered a puller. It better work!
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Excellent, I assume you purchased the larger size one that Shawn had posted an Amazon link to? Over the years there has been plenty of red neck engineering to git her done round here, but these are my go to pullers. The small one I use with a stud welder for bodywork, the 5lb one for most everything because the kit comes with numerous grips. And the 13 lb unit comes out when it's stubborn. Don't let it best ya, but sometimes ya gotta step back and regroup.
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No, I bought the dedicated bearing puller, not the slide hammer. In hindsight, it would have been more practical with more uses.
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Have you tried turning the bearing 90*? I thought you could turn the bearing 90* in the housing, if that is what you call it, using the notched areas of the outer race as the center point of the 90* to then just pull the inner section of the bearing out.
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I have not. I saw that online too, as a way to just replace the bearing instead of the entire thing, for about 25.00 I think it may need to be out to turn it? My removal tool showed up yesterday. I'll be giving that a try today .
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I don't think it needs to be out unless the bearing was put in facing the wrong way
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Look to see if there are areas recessed in the outer section
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Before I found I had a snap ring to deal with, and once I broke a snap ring pliers, and before I went and got another snap ring pliers, I almost put an i-bolt through it with washers and nut on the back, and hooked it to a chain, and my truck, and yanked it.
good thing I didn't.
but. I mean. If you don't have a snap ring in place. It'd probably do it.
I mean... sounds like a horrible idea.... but..... sounds kinda fun and effective too. with the hopes of it not being destructive.
:)
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My 99.99 tool showed up yesterday and worked great. Old bearing out and new one in. Spent much of the day trying to align the motor because I had thought the motor mount nuts didn't move much since I pulled the motor last fall and I assumed they were near their original height, but nooooooo!
Lowered the front of the motor way lower than I thought it originally was and now the "tool" slides in. Get your mind out of the gutter!
Need to do some fine adjustments tomorrow. Then on to installing the drive and pulling the lower unit for a new impeller.
We'll be lucky of we get out once before the meet.
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Assuming you gave the alignment tool the 'whack' in all 4 directions to set the bearing and align it?
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Yeah I hit it extra, just to be sure. ;D
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Yeah I hit it extra, just to be sure. ;D
Nice! Getting after it Ross! Can't wait to see it in a few weeks!