gt-150 starting on the reno old caulk?

[rocky boat]

So finally starting work on my gt-150.    Question re: removing old caulk.  We need to fix the leaks through the rub rail.  There is a bad caulking job all along the bottom of the rub rail.  How do you get the old stuff off?  Got previous advice once we clean the old stuff off to loosen the screws and then caulk with 5200.  I don't want to the two parts of the boat to separate as I am afraid I don't have the ability to put them back together .  thanks for any advice and will post pics of the old caulk when I get a chance.

[OleRed]

removing the bump rail does not seperate the hull, there are more screws hold the boat together behind the bump rail.
you can scrape off the old caulk with a dull razor blade then rub the residue off with acetone and a wash rag, the acetone will not hurt fiberglass, but if the boat has been painted the acetone may dull it.

[Rosscoe]

Just keep in mind that acetone is flammable. Don't blow yourself up. I also don't leave the rags laying around in the shop. I throw them outside when I'm done. Maybe overly cautious.

[Jerry]

WOW! First you shouldn't have water at the rub rail, so it shouldn't leak there. I would check the transom and floor if you had any leaks before you put a lot of work into it. pull the rub rail and clean whatever is there up. Don't use 5200. That is FOREVER and you will be screwed if you want to take it apart in the future. I can't think of a reason to "calk" the rub rail, bet a small bead of silicone couldn't hurt. If the boat has been painted keep in mind Acetone is "fingernail polish remover" it will take enamel paint right off, and like Ross says can go POOF with a spark. Don't be afraid to take it apart, it will go back together..

[carlsoncvx18]

There is usually a big gap at the back where the top and the bottom meet back at both sides next to the tramsum.

Right where the two alumimun pieces are.  On the GT 150 that I redid there was at least a 1/2 gap or bigger. That could be where your leak is , check that out only 2 screws hold them on.

[CVX Fever]

Jerry I was thinking 5200 was kind of overkill too and due to its adhesive quality not the best choice. I agree with Jeff that the big gap between the hull and deck is most likely at the back/stern. My CVX16 had the same issue. When I got that boat someone had put silicon on the bottom of the rub rail and it looked like crap. If it was my boat I would remove the rub rail completely then seal the hull and deck at the shoebox seam. That's the best way to seal it IMHO and when your done the rub rail will cover up the silicon.

[V153]

If it was my boat I would remove the rub rail completely then seal the hull and deck at the shoebox seam. That's the best way to seal it IMHO and when your done the rub rail will cover up the silicon.

Agreed.

[scott r bishop]

There is usually a big gap at the back where the top and the bottom meet back at both sides next to the tramsum.

Right where the two alumimun pieces are.  On the GT 150 that I redid there was at least a 1/2 gap or bigger. That could be where your leak is , check that out only 2 screws hold them on.

This is exactly my experience. Right where those two rear corner pieces sit there is a huge gap on the 150s.  I think we actually have the aluminum corners left over from our restoration if you want some spares; we sealed the back with glass and never bothered putting them back on.  True, it's forever, but we did ours as a full rebuild - plus, you have to cut the splashwell from the transom right there if you were to ever do a full restore anyways, so I don't think it would be that big of a deal to seal it until you're ready to split it in half.

[rocky boat]

thanks everyone.  We figured it leaked in the back when you slowed down and water came over the transoe.  Also when standing in the boat the rub raili  would be below water line in the back (because we had water under the floorboards that I didn't realize for a while).  I took the metal corner pieces off that connect the rail to the transome but the rub rail ends along the stern and the back where the transom is is fiberglassed over.  Are you all saying the separation is usually along the metal piece across the two parts of the stern? We assumed it was leaking somewhere through there but there is such a badcaulking job along the bottom of the metal piece the rub rail went into that I figured someone had tried to plug leaks before.  (Sorry if my questions reflect my ignorance, but I'm an Alaskan.  I can tune skis - a boat is a totally new creature for me.  I don't think the boat is painted.  From all of everyone's pictures it's the original gel coat but will be careful .  Will show your posts to the guy who is helping me.

[Jason]

Those things sit pretty low. I could see how water could get up there when slowing down or simply using the boat!

[Rosscoe]

I'd seal it up with at least 4200. Great stuff but I am wondering if too much damage has been done already to the floor and transom. I guess it depends on if you ever plan on splitting the hull. Whatever you use, glass or marine adhesive, you can always cut or grind it back out later.
Can you physically see where it is coming in? Rear only? Hope you got the water out from under the floor asap and if its sits outside, store it nose up with the plug out.

[rocky boat]

we have now unscrewed one side of the metal piece.  There are large gaps in places between the deck and the hull.  Gaps in the back too.  Should we use something to seal the shoebox seam before recalking or sealing the metal strip? If so what do we use.  What do you suggest for recalking the metal stip?  Will take pictures and figure out how to upload this week.  That's where we are now.  Thanks.  Also thinking do we need to rip out the carpet to get to the seam from the inside? 

[Hyperacme]

You might wanna check for soft spots in floor & transom before sealing it up.
Unless you know there in good shape.
My carpet was glued to floor and stapled to a wood strip that runs around seam, you could pull staples and pull back to get at leaking seam, then glue and staple carpet back on ... If your carpets in good shape and can be reused.

Theres a GT rebuild going on now at CGOA ...
http://www.classicglastron.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=7991&start=10

[rocky boat]

thanks.  floor boards seem good.  No soft spots that we can find.  Not sure about under that.  We got a lot of water in there this summer before figuring out that it was filling up.  Good news is the sparkles on the bow are coming back. (That part is my job0.