Author Topic: Help with how to revome broken bolts (Read 6516 times)

UKMike · « **on:** July 01, 2017, 03:39:23 PM »

Hi everyone,

I went and did some work on the Glastron Carlosn today and as part of the work I needed to swap our the bushes on my Mercury V6 135 but the bolts on the bushing covers broke off, can anyone advise how I can get these out?
Best regards
UKMike

Capt SkUnK · « **Reply #1 on:** July 01, 2017, 04:58:06 PM »

Quote from: UKMike on July 01, 2017, 03:39:23 PM

Hi everyone,

I went and did some work on the Glastron Carlosn today and as part of the work I needed to swap our the bushes on my Mercury V6 135 but the bolts on the bushing covers broke off, can anyone advise how I can get these out?
Best regards
UKMike

Looks like you could weld a nut on those left over studs or try and grind down to get a wrench on those.

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UKMike · « **Reply #2 on:** July 01, 2017, 05:01:52 PM »

Thanks, do you think heating them would help?

Capt SkUnK · « **Reply #3 on:** July 01, 2017, 05:07:03 PM »

Quote from: UKMike on July 01, 2017, 05:01:52 PM

Thanks, do you think heating them would help?

Is there anything that's gonna melt?

Heats always been a helping hand working on my rusted out jeep suspensions. Just so long as there is nothing your going to melt or catch on fire. Lots of penitrating oil.

I'm sure someone else will have some other ideas. If they broke off flush I'd move on to a easy out bolt extractor or just drill them out.

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UKMike · « **Reply #4 on:** July 01, 2017, 05:10:58 PM »

Thanks again, they are really stuck in there, I think they are the original ones, the only thing that can burn is the rubber on the mounts and the paint work. Its aluminium though.

V153 · « **Reply #5 on:** July 01, 2017, 05:24:08 PM »

It's a lil late now but the very first thing I'd do is soak the crap out of the bolts with PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench or some other kinda 'penetrating oil'.

UKMike · « **Reply #6 on:** July 01, 2017, 10:27:04 PM »

Thanks again, the bolts hold on a bracket so it's impossible to get any fluid to the threads unless you can get the bracket off, which means undoing the bolts. They broke of on both sides so that's 4 to deal with

At least I can get to them now and I'll try as you say and get some blaster in there, get a grinder to them and square them off and get a wrench to them. Might even see if I can get a pipe wrench on them......

Capt SkUnK · « **Reply #7 on:** July 01, 2017, 10:35:36 PM »

If you can tack a bolt on the top that's your best bet.

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V153 · « **Reply #8 on:** July 01, 2017, 10:53:35 PM »

Well at least ya broke all four. I mean why stop at one two or three ...

So there is some consistency ...

UKMike · « **Reply #9 on:** July 01, 2017, 11:34:20 PM »

LOL I just hope I can keep the same consistency when getting them out, the last thing I want is for them to break off flush, it will be impossible to drill and therefor a whole new bottom end, "which is NLA". Scary thought!

Plugcheck · « **Reply #10 on:** July 02, 2017, 07:49:04 AM »

I feel like I'm staring at a where's Waldo picture. I see two studs that appear to have had the nuts removed. If I encounter rounded off nuts, I generally weld another nut onto it. Works for broken off studs as well. Since I cannot identify the mounting nuts, is it possible to pull the major section and take it into a machine shop?

Rich_V174SS · « **Reply #11 on:** July 02, 2017, 08:20:56 AM »

I had to do something similar the other day at the shop. I used a propane torch to get the area good and hot and unscrewed the broken bolts with a pair of vice grips. Then ran a tap through the holes to clean out the threads.

UKMike · « **Reply #12 on:** July 02, 2017, 01:35:22 PM »

Thanks guys, I don't have a welder so might try the penetration oil first, then heat and then take in into the shop if that doesn't work. the thing is I have to be really careful as I just won't get another unit without time and expense. These bults are absolutely solid with white corrosion and salt....

Gasrcboat · « **Reply #13 on:** July 02, 2017, 02:36:14 PM »

Soak the heck out of them. Grind slot in broken end with dremel and cutting wheel and twist out with flat head!

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UKMike · « **Reply #14 on:** July 02, 2017, 02:37:35 PM »

Thanks, I'll give it a try and keep the fingers crossed I don't mess it up!!

Jason · « **Reply #15 on:** July 03, 2017, 06:43:18 AM »

I've always had decent luck with PB blaster but the best penetrating oil I have found is ATF mixed 50/50 with acetone.

V153 · « **Reply #16 on:** July 03, 2017, 05:14:05 PM »

Whatever ya use saturate the bolts hourly, then daily, then weekly. For a month ...

Then I guarantee that broke chit'll be beggin to come out!

And there is something to be said for liberal lube and patience, before breaking all of em ...

UKMike · « **Reply #17 on:** July 04, 2017, 03:34:46 PM »

Thanks again! I've just purchased an ARC welder so that I can weld the nut's on each stud, can you tell me if I need to disconnect the battery and if so am I OK to connect the earth cable from the ARC welder onto the engine, or should I remove the engine from the boat first? I have a aluminium petrol tank with approx. 120L of petrol in the tank, it is up at the from of the boat but I'm concerned that if I run the current through the engine by means of earth I might get some static in the fuel tank by means of the petrol gauge feed wires! Or even the metal fuel cap which is earthed to the fiberglass.

UKMike · « **Reply #18 on:** July 04, 2017, 03:42:06 PM »

Sorry, when I say petrol I mean GAS

Plugcheck · « **Reply #19 on:** July 04, 2017, 10:00:04 PM »

Whenever you are welding it is important to keep the return path as short as possible. I don't see an issue with the fuel tank, but then again I wouldn't connect the welder ground there either. Hook it to the other broken stud or something else close.