Author Topic: Cvx16 oem stringer/floor/ransom questions  (Read 18799 times)

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Offline pyro225

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Re: Cvx16 oem stringer/floor/ransom questions
« Reply #60 on: September 07, 2017, 11:28:37 AM »
Thought as much plug check - how dumb are some people! There are nails all in the stringers from the floor probably how the got wet as the glass looks in good shape still - I've sealed it and have a dehumidifier in there currently while I wait for materials - I assume you use resin to glue the stringer to the floor and hold the floor in place? How many layers of matt do you use on the stringer and the floor? 1 plus tabs? Gone for 600gm


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Offline Plugcheck

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Re: Cvx16 oem stringer/floor/ransom questions
« Reply #61 on: September 07, 2017, 02:46:25 PM »
      What product to use to bond the stringers to the floor?, advice and opinions vary on this subject.  I can only comment on how I do it.  All wood is cut and shaped to fit to the hull and to each other if they interlock.   Next, I mix resin and then cut with 15-20% acetone, then paint all sides of the wood.  The acetone helps the resin to penetrate and waterproof the wood.  Now some folks will wrap with resin and cloth, not a bad idea, I just don't do it.     Once any hull penetrations are repaired, I have used epoxy, waterproof subfloor adhesive, or resin with cabosil or glass fibers to bond the stringers to the hull.  Once dried, I put two strips on both sides, one tabbing about 6" wide, then over that about 8" wide.  Some folks then fill the voids with foam as it helps make the hull stronger and quieter.  Leave a channel for water to escape.  Next the floor goes on after a waterproofing treatment, same glue/adhesive you used before on the hull, then just a few screws to hold it to the stringers.   Some folks use weight to hold it down, that works also.  I then tab the joint between the floor and the hull, then one full sheet of cloth over everything, overlapping about 4".    OK, that's my basic method, my boats will outlast me largely because I don't leave them outside, and rarely uncovered when outside except when I using them.
Michael
1979 CVZ-18 388 CI Vortec Mouse
1980 CVX-16SS 140 Mercruiser
1979 CVX-16 Johnson 175
2002 Bennington 2275CC 90 Mercury
1985 Intimidator project
1989 Lowe 200 Redneck fishin Toon
2001 Godfrey Sweetwater pontoon 115 Rude

Offline pyro225

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Re: Cvx16 oem stringer/floor/ransom questions
« Reply #62 on: September 07, 2017, 04:12:21 PM »
Ok thanks again - I'd rather not user any screws etc so the weight method will use the resin to fuse the two together? Also are you saying with the floor you don't use any csm except for the the tabbing as the diluted resin does the trick? Thanks!


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Offline Plugcheck

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Re: Cvx16 oem stringer/floor/ransom questions
« Reply #63 on: September 08, 2017, 12:08:28 AM »
I use cam for repairs, build up, and reinforcement.  You can use it as you see fit.  Cam, woven, or biax for tabbing, but woven seems to tuck in corners better.  Everyone has their preference.  For me, I've found thinner material bends and fits tighter, but biax works great if not real wide.  Long strips can be difficult to get all the voids out.  Just how I do it and I'm just an enthusiest, not someone who builds boats for a living.  I like the look of cloth on the floor.
Michael
1979 CVZ-18 388 CI Vortec Mouse
1980 CVX-16SS 140 Mercruiser
1979 CVX-16 Johnson 175
2002 Bennington 2275CC 90 Mercury
1985 Intimidator project
1989 Lowe 200 Redneck fishin Toon
2001 Godfrey Sweetwater pontoon 115 Rude

Offline thedeuceman

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Re: Cvx16 oem stringer/floor/ransom questions
« Reply #64 on: September 08, 2017, 05:52:37 AM »
My methods are nearly identical to Mike's, only thing I do different is when attaching the floor to the stringers I use a couple layers of CSM, and then screws. And I will throw out the same disclaimer as Mike, it's my preference to do things that way.


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Joe
75 GT150 "SeaDeuced"... Its Back !!
92 16CSS "Attitude Adjustment" is for sale
75 CV-16V8, Project
74 CV-16... its Purple !

Offline Plugcheck

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Re: Cvx16 oem stringer/floor/ransom questions
« Reply #65 on: September 08, 2017, 09:37:24 AM »
    Probably learned to do it that way from your rebuilds Joe,   Most of what I know about boats, and nearly everything I know about Glastron Carlson's has come from this forum.   Great group of folks to know when it comes to restoring old Glastron's.
Michael
1979 CVZ-18 388 CI Vortec Mouse
1980 CVX-16SS 140 Mercruiser
1979 CVX-16 Johnson 175
2002 Bennington 2275CC 90 Mercury
1985 Intimidator project
1989 Lowe 200 Redneck fishin Toon
2001 Godfrey Sweetwater pontoon 115 Rude

Offline pyro225

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Re: Cvx16 oem stringer/floor/ransom questions
« Reply #66 on: September 09, 2017, 01:10:49 AM »
Ok great thanks guys - so mike - sorry - on the underside floor do you use csm on that or just resin and then a bit of csm on the top and some tabbing to hold in place?

Separate question same subject I've been in touch with a couple of people on here who had rebuilt cvx16 and one has told me the my use 6x2 for the stringer... there is no way this woul fit until it nearly got to the bow where the floor rises up ... from the bow back 3x2 is all I can get - are the string usually the same size or would it be 6x2 planes down to 3x2 in some bits? Finally still trying to work out how far into the bow it should go (sorry don't have a template) does it just go as far as it can flat or do you need to bend for the bow and keep going somehow?

Thanks as always!


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Offline thedeuceman

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Re: Cvx16 oem stringer/floor/ransom questions
« Reply #67 on: September 09, 2017, 07:46:28 AM »
I'm not 100% sure I understand your question, but if you're asking "do you need to cut the center stringer to fit the hull", the short answer is yes.
It sounds like you are going to use dimensional lumber, then the width of it needs to be what the max height of the original stringer was.
I fully understand not having the template as when I rebuilt my GT 150 all the wood was out of it before I got it, you should be able to see you where the original floor was tabbed in around the edges, use that as a guide for a straight edge to locate the height of the stringer.
I ended up making it cardboard template, I cut the stringer a little bit big and sanded or ground it to fit the hull so the straight edge left on the top was at the height of the bottom of the floor.


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Joe
75 GT150 "SeaDeuced"... Its Back !!
92 16CSS "Attitude Adjustment" is for sale
75 CV-16V8, Project
74 CV-16... its Purple !

Offline Plugcheck

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Re: Cvx16 oem stringer/floor/ransom questions
« Reply #68 on: September 09, 2017, 10:35:25 AM »
I have not used any cloth or csm on the bottom side of my floors.  Just a couple good soakings with resin/acetone mix.  Structurally I used 3/4" t&g floor so no need to add strength.  Maybe you're using thinner floor or a composite which is also suitable, it's your choice.  As for stringers, they can be playing, dimensional, or composite.  There really is no template per se, every boat seems a bit different, so stringers can be a tedious process of cutting, trimming, sanding to fit your hull.  As for height, I cut my own straightedges that lay on the hull at 2' increments at the point where the floor contacts it.  I then took out about 3/16 to 1/4" of space so the floor actually has a bow to it to insure contact with hull and allows water to run off better.  Spent lots of time cutting beer case cardboard to make templates. Got me in the ballpark.  Still lots of hand finishing, a cvz front floor turns down, so I had cutting and trimming on top as well.
Michael
1979 CVZ-18 388 CI Vortec Mouse
1980 CVX-16SS 140 Mercruiser
1979 CVX-16 Johnson 175
2002 Bennington 2275CC 90 Mercury
1985 Intimidator project
1989 Lowe 200 Redneck fishin Toon
2001 Godfrey Sweetwater pontoon 115 Rude

Offline pyro225

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Re: Cvx16 oem stringer/floor/ransom questions
« Reply #69 on: September 11, 2017, 07:56:59 AM »
Thanks for the advise guys - I have just ordered a moisture meter to check everything before I rip everything out - sure it will need doing but they are too expensive and worth having - what kind of readings would be acceptable/not acceptable? Cheers!


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Offline Plugcheck

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Re: Cvx16 oem stringer/floor/ransom questions
« Reply #70 on: September 11, 2017, 11:13:28 AM »
Moisture meter are fine when your buying the boat or looking at one.  After I own it, I just use a drill and bit to check chips for moisture.  Any doubts, I replace.
Michael
1979 CVZ-18 388 CI Vortec Mouse
1980 CVX-16SS 140 Mercruiser
1979 CVX-16 Johnson 175
2002 Bennington 2275CC 90 Mercury
1985 Intimidator project
1989 Lowe 200 Redneck fishin Toon
2001 Godfrey Sweetwater pontoon 115 Rude

Offline pyro225

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Re: Cvx16 oem stringer/floor/ransom questions
« Reply #71 on: September 11, 2017, 01:30:06 PM »
I was going to use it to see how the stringers are drying out now I cut the bad stuff out and we have only light coloured timber remaining - had the dehumidifier on for a week lol


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Offline Plugcheck

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Re: Cvx16 oem stringer/floor/ransom questions
« Reply #72 on: September 11, 2017, 02:01:00 PM »
     Wet is one thing, and rot is another.  Strangely, I've found wood rotten inside that looked fine outside because it found a way in through a rusty nail, screw, or from drilling to run lines through.  My transom in the CVZ looked fine in spots, but was rotten badly where the Pitot tube had been routed through.   Water finds a way in it seems.   If it looks good, then drill a sample bore to check the sawdust/chips.  Refill with resin and cabosil.   Bottom line, ya just have to be certain.
Michael
1979 CVZ-18 388 CI Vortec Mouse
1980 CVX-16SS 140 Mercruiser
1979 CVX-16 Johnson 175
2002 Bennington 2275CC 90 Mercury
1985 Intimidator project
1989 Lowe 200 Redneck fishin Toon
2001 Godfrey Sweetwater pontoon 115 Rude

Offline pyro225

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Re: Cvx16 oem stringer/floor/ransom questions
« Reply #73 on: September 25, 2017, 02:30:36 PM »
Right took the day off today as it was nice... in my head I was going to have her split by lunchtime... haha ... what a comedian...

You can see she’s nice and red now and I should have done this post split as you can see I went through the splash well with a chisel and multi tool. Breaking the cap from the transom took four hours and a load of blades. Think I will fill my war wounds where I’ve gone through it then I will make a transom plate
- extra strength anyway.

Now I need some friends to lift it - is two people enough ? Is it flimsy /mega fragile?






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Offline fireman24mn

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Re: Cvx16 oem stringer/floor/ransom questions
« Reply #74 on: September 25, 2017, 02:42:27 PM »
You could probably lift with 2 4 would be best just because it is so long.  When I moved my top around I usually slid 2 boards under it so it stuck out like handles on each side.
I think this has become an addiction.


1977 CV-23 I/O Full Resto complete
1976 CV-16 V8 Resto in progress
1985 Pearson MotorYacht 43ft

Offline pyro225

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Re: Cvx16 oem stringer/floor/ransom questions
« Reply #75 on: September 25, 2017, 05:38:34 PM »
Could I pick up by the cleats or is that asking for trouble?


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Offline nes-cv23

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Re: Cvx16 oem stringer/floor/ransom questions
« Reply #76 on: September 25, 2017, 06:04:09 PM »
I put 4 big hooks in the rafters of my garage same space as the cleats and used pulleys to lift the top up by the cleats on the 15' and 16's never had any ill effects. Plus the top is out of the way and you can do the rest without worrying about it. And it makes it easier to put the top back on by yourself.   But if no garage...? 
« Last Edit: September 25, 2017, 06:10:20 PM by nes-cv23 »
84 ssv-151, 76 cvx-16 ss, 77cvx-20 jet, 90 CSS-19, 78 cv-23, 77 gt-150, 2-78 cvx-16, 79cvx-16, 79 cvz-18,  73 cv-16, 74 cv-18, 89 219 Futura, 76 gt-150 jet, 79 cv-23, 02 Gx-225,  1980 intimidator = done!.. 79 hvp175   Now  done?

Offline Plugcheck

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Re: Cvx16 oem stringer/floor/ransom questions
« Reply #77 on: September 25, 2017, 09:19:49 PM »
The tops are fairly strong, but you really don't want to put it under too much stress.  Find a flat spot and provide support under it, 2x4's, or pallets. Four people would be best, three is doable, two is possible, but could be difficult because once up, you have to move it.  Shawn's idea of 2x4's wider than the top by 2' on each side keeps you from overextending as you move it.  The bottom without the top, stringers and floor will be rather flimsy.  Key here is to support the bottom, somewhat like a mold.  If the hull had Hook, it's now possible to work some of that out with weight and support.  You will want to pull the sides together when you glass in the floor, other wise the top going back on can be tough.  Some folks put the top back on loosely before glassing the floor. 
Michael
1979 CVZ-18 388 CI Vortec Mouse
1980 CVX-16SS 140 Mercruiser
1979 CVX-16 Johnson 175
2002 Bennington 2275CC 90 Mercury
1985 Intimidator project
1989 Lowe 200 Redneck fishin Toon
2001 Godfrey Sweetwater pontoon 115 Rude

Offline pyro225

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Re: Cvx16 oem stringer/floor/ransom questions
« Reply #78 on: September 26, 2017, 06:09:35 AM »
Ok great thanks - I will wait for additional help in the mean time I have been going at these rust spots and am in two minds if they are from the trailer it was sat on for five years or if they are from the hull, sanding it down made it all whit again with the brown holes going to dirty dents. Had a die on there and it cut through like butter , not sure weather to just fill the light ground out bits as I see no evidence or go all the way... any ideas?
Also the marks are no where near the floor or the stringers as I originally thought which also makes me think maybe they are external marks...




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Offline pyro225

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Re: Cvx16 oem stringer/floor/ransom questions
« Reply #79 on: September 26, 2017, 10:37:31 AM »
Ok forget the above I manned up and kept drilling and found rusted bits of metal - drilled out and then counter sunk both sides, then put tape on the outside filled level with gelcoat and packed down some glass. The hull is so thin i wanted ideally ply resin then on the inside but I ended up putting three layers of 2 inch wide glass down then a couple of layers of resin. I then peeled the tape off all but one wet good one had a bit of a gap to the side so tried packing up a load of gel and will sand back when dry. Do you think this should do the job?

Also I have a very thin spider crack about a foot and a half long either side in the chine - can I just lightly sand back and gel for now?

Final job of the day was being a man and cutting all the way to the bulk head out of the floor! Most said it but I wasn’t hearing it lol. Can I get away with leaving the bow floor normally? I am going to make a small incision for the end of the string it goes up the bow about 1.5ft



 


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