Minnesota Classic Glastron Forum
General Category => Members Profiles / Introductions => Topic started by: redneckgearhead on April 21, 2018, 06:02:33 AM
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Hey everyone! Just wanted to say hi and say that I'm new to boats and just looked at and am going to purchase a 1979 hpv 165. We live in Central MN and as soon as the ground dries out I'll be able to go pick up the boat. It's missing it's windscreens but other than that it's in great shape. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180421/e1a914fe526ee838ebfef5af748a7a66.jpg)
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Welcome to the forum, look foreword to seeing more when you pick it up
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Welcome to the forum ...
Boat looks to be in pretty good shape.
Is that a 115 HP on the stern ?
Looking forward to more pictures !
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Welcome to the forum ...
Boat looks to be in pretty good shape.
Is that a 115 HP on the stern ?
Looking forward to more pictures !
It's a 1983 140.
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Welcome to the forum, along with nicer weather, we hope to see some more pictures as you get your new treasure water ready.
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Thanks for the warm welcome! Hopefully this beautiful weather we're having continues and Ill be able to pick up my boat this friday. I received my Seloc repair/service manual from MarineEngine.com for the motor today and glancing through it, I am impressed with the detailed instruction. I have been researching the needed maintenance that should be done on any new used boat. The seller had it "serviced" last fall but I think I am going to change the oil in the lower unit, replace the impeller, clean and inspect the wheel bearings and maybe clean the carbs just for my own peace of mind. After I make certain it is mechanically as it should be I am going to turn my attention the cosmetic side of things. Wanting to try and bring back some of the original shine with a cut and buff and I have found two new windshields but holy sticker shock, 185$ a side. Ill post some pics when the time to pick it up arrives.
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Drain and inspect fuel tank, new fuel hose and primer bulb.
Is VRO disconnected ?
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Drain and inspect fuel tank, new fuel hose and primer bulb.
Is VRO disconnected ?
Will add those to the list along with spark plugs. The previous owner mixed the fuel so I am assuming the vro is disconnected, but have been told that 83 was the last year for non vro?
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Ok so tomorrow at noon I'm going to do a final inspection and hopefully bring it home.
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Stomp around on floor, looking for soft spot.
Poke around transom area with something sharp looking for rot, taking note of area's around thru bolt holes.
With trailer connected to car/truck and using care as not to hurt yourself, try to rip motor off transom, noting flex of transom.
Standing on cavitation plate jumping and pulling .. BUT be careful ...
Not the greatest test, but will show a very weak transom.
Check for cracks in fiberglass around transom and fiberglass covering inside of transom wood.
There was a crack in the fiberglass on my transom (white line top center of first picture) when I pushed on it, you could feel it was soft.
Ripped it off (second picture) and found the speedo pilot tube mounts had not been sealed and water got in and rotted wood. I was able to remove wood in that area with just my hands.
Hope boat checks out for you ...
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Stomp around on floor, looking for soft spot.
Poke around transom area with something sharp looking for rot, taking note of area's around thru bolt holes.
With trailer connected to car/truck and using care as not to hurt yourself, try to rip motor off transom, noting flex of transom.
Standing on cavitation plate jumping and pulling .. BUT be careful ...
Not the greatest test, but will show a very weak transom.
Check for cracks in fiberglass around transom and fiberglass covering inside of transom wood.
There was a crack in the fiberglass on my transom (white line top center of first picture) when I pushed on it, you could feel it was soft.
Ripped it off (second picture) and found the speedo pilot tube mounts had not been sealed and water got in and rotted wood. I was able to remove wood in that area with just my hands.
Hope boat checks out for you ...
Yep, I looked at all that when I initially looked at the boat. I was very impressed with how solid the boat is. I tried to step on every inch of the floor. Stuck my head in every compartment and tapped on any structure I could reach every compartment was dry and had no moldy musty smell. I can see the inside of the transom and I looks great, no flex in it at all. I'll double check everything in the light of day today.
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Just wanted to second some parts of what Gregg stated and add a few comments. Looks for cracks in the gel coat and fiberglass area throughout the craft. Weakened stringers and floor will usually cause the rest of the boat to flex enough to make cracks in the high stress areas. Second, a bit of poking around where any penetrations in the transom are located will help find the weak spots, water can find its way in through even screw penetrations for speedo's, depth gauges, etc. And lastly, if everything feels fairly solid, don't be afraid to take note of the areas and go enjoy the season. As you become more acclimated to your new treasure you will find other items that will need some attention, or maybe just the new owners touch. Some opt for more fishing attributes, while other may sway towards skiing/wakeboarding. Bottom line, if the floor and transom aren't falling apart, which we sincerely hope not, don't jump into a major restoration until you and your boat have developed a sort of relationship. Just my $0.02
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Some one on FB stated that the HPV had same hull as a CV.
Think he meant CVX hull ...
Is there a pad on your HPV ?
First picture is CV hull with rounded bottom.
Second picture is CVX / Metric hull with pad.
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Just wanted to second some parts of what Gregg stated and add a few comments. Looks for cracks in the gel coat and fiberglass area throughout the craft. Weakened stringers and floor will usually cause the rest of the boat to flex enough to make cracks in the high stress areas. Second, a bit of poking around where any penetrations in the transom are located will help find the weak spots, water can find its way in through even screw penetrations for speedo's, depth gauges, etc. And lastly, if everything feels fairly solid, don't be afraid to take note of the areas and go enjoy the season. As you become more acclimated to your new treasure you will find other items that will need some attention, or maybe just the new owners touch. Some opt for more fishing attributes, while other may sway towards skiing/wakeboarding. Bottom line, if the floor and transom aren't falling apart, which we sincerely hope not, don't jump into a major restoration until you and your boat have developed a sort of relationship. Just my $0.02
Thanks!
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1979 HPV165
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More info
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Some one on FB stated that the HPV had same hull as a CV.
Think he meant CVX hull ...
Is there a pad on your HPV ?
First picture is CV hull with rounded bottom.
Second picture is CVX / Metric hull with pad.
I'll look
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Look here for windshield info ...
http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=2901.0 (http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=2901.0)
You could make your own.
Wouldn't be to hard and WAY cheaper !
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Look here for windshield info ...
http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=2901.0 (http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=2901.0)
You could make your own.
Wouldn't be to hard and WAY cheaper !
I've considered that. The design is far from complex. Thanks for the link.
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Some one on FB stated that the HPV had same hull as a CV.
Think he meant CVX hull ...
Is there a pad on your HPV ?
First picture is CV hull with rounded bottom.
Second picture is CVX / Metric hull with pad.
It is a cvx style hull with the pad. I'll get some pictures of it posted soon.
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COOL !
That's the faster of the two designs ...
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A few pics. Got a change of oil for the lower, ordered the spark plugs, gonna order an impeller, drained the fuel and put in fresh. Upon further inspection I'm not sure I can do much with the finish. And if you'll look at the pic of the front casting deck there's a square that is screwed down, is that something that's original or is it someone flush mounting the tm control? (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180428/1bd85afbf1b58f71d3be6d1378780167.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180428/bb7cc8e4357c3bbe8aecd8560949ca2a.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180428/acaf5cfccc8b26eb04a09f370ac4c6c0.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180428/a921216ff572d4547660e3ff283a62bd.jpg)
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Look GOOD !
Brochure says it's a storage space ?
Open it up and see what's in there ...
You'd be surprised at what wet sanding / compounding / FI2 / waxing can do to dull flake ...
Try a spot and see ... Bad scratch's don't look so bad if there shinny scratch's ..
I would do a very good / close inspection of fuel tank for rust and crap, maybe even removing it and flushing /sealing it.
Sucking crap out of rusted or bad gas will ruin your day ... or your motor ..
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Look GOOD !
Brochure says it's a storage space ?
Open it up and see what's in there ...
You'd be surprised at what wet sanding / compounding / FI2 / waxing can do to dull flake ...
Try a spot and see ... Bad scratch's don't look so bad if there shinny scratch's ..
I would do a very good / close inspection of fuel tank for rust and crap, maybe even removing it and flushing /sealing it.
Sucking crap out of rusted or bad gas will ruin your day ... or your motor ..
I opened it up, it's just the hull of the boat under there, but It's the perfect size for a recessed TM control pan. Maybe I can hinge it and store the anchor in there....
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Ok so my lower unit is making butter. So is it safe to say I need new seals? (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180429/785cd1f765b0cd06a42bddb7fcf69e7f.jpg)
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Yep !
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Yep !
Got em on order. I should have just ordered them when I ordered the impeller so now I'm paying shipping twice. Oh well, such is life.
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I was gonna order online, but a good friend recommended a local guy so I think I'll source the parts local. I pulled the lower unit and found the culprit. A leakingshift shaft seal. Found lots of sediment in it as well.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180429/2cb8468146516aff17cfc4405f5fa8f8.jpg)
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I was gonna order online, but a good friend recommended a local guy so I think I'll source the parts local. I pulled the lower unit and found the culprit. A leakingshift shaft seal. Found lots of sediment in it as well.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180429/2cb8468146516aff17cfc4405f5fa8f8.jpg)
I do a lot of these. Nine times out of ten the suspect seal is the drive shaft seal below the water pump and my shop has the upper bearing/seal assembly in stock. I'm replacing them constantly. One thing you have to look out for is if there's any pitting or surface wear on the drive shaft where it makes contact with the oil seal. If there's any roughness or grooves worn into the shaft you'll probably have to replace the shaft because it will always leak even with a new seal.
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I do a lot of these. Nine times out of ten the suspect seal is the drive shaft seal below the water pump and my shop has the upper bearing/seal assembly in stock. I'm replacing them constantly. One thing you have to look out for is if there's any pitting or surface wear on the drive shaft where it makes contact with the oil seal. If there's any roughness or grooves worn into the shaft you'll probably have to replace the shaft because it will always leak even with a new seal.
Thanks for the advice!
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