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21
General Discussion / Re: Timi time
« Last post by Plugcheck on February 23, 2018, 04:17:08 PM »
I suppose heavy abuse could crack the stringer or bulkhead allowing for a gap that water could find its way in, but even then it is foam filled and will require long term contact before much absorption could occur.   As for any gaps, I plan to pour foam until nearly full, then use some of the softer "great stuff" type foam moments before gluing and screwing the floor pieces down.   As for the floor pieces, I just finished putting a cloth/resin layer on the entire bottom of the floor.   Once glued and screwed, I will sand, treat, peanut butter all gaps, then treat, add 24 oz woven roving to the floor to hull perimeter, then cloth/resin layer overall to make smooth and waterproof.  Seems to be the front runner in my interior design to make a painted/ruff deck surface so its easier to clean and moisture runs off to the bilge.
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General Discussion / Re: Timi time
« Last post by Hyperacme on February 23, 2018, 02:48:14 PM »
I think even the small amount of condensation from small voids in foam, won't amount to enough to cause problems.
Just one of the con's I've heard stated about sealed floor.
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Classified / Wanted to Buy / Re: GCOTD
« Last post by Hyperacme on February 23, 2018, 02:24:34 PM »
Not G/C's but super cool boats ...

4 TWIN ENGINE CATS 1960-1961&TRLRS - $1195 (Elk River)
https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/csw/boa/d/4-twin-engine-catstrlrs/6481087968.html

These are fiberglass antique collectors. 2 Powercats,14'&16', American Mark 15', Magnolia 16'. I've only seen one other Magnolia in the U.S. Roadworthy trailers & spare included. No engines included but I have old white 6 cyl, Mercs available. I can mail you pictures. Own a boat very unique!!! NO TEXTING!!!!!! call 24hrs
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General Discussion / Re: Timi time
« Last post by dorelse on February 23, 2018, 02:20:25 PM »
If there are no air cavities, and its sealed foam, there's no air to condense, so a permanently sealed & foam filled area shouldn't 'get wet'.  I think the only issue is making sure that it stays sealed.  No cracking, no separation, no way for water to get in.  Our boats are low enough that wakes/waves can get in over the bow/stern/sides...and sometimes you get caught in the rain too.

So...if you're going to seal it up, the underside of the floor has to be sealed, essentially everything so water can't wick up via the wood into any sealed area.  If you do a good job, no reason it shouldn't last for decades.

Option B is to keep it all open enough than you can open it up and leave it to dry out fully.

I think they're both valid options.
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General Discussion / Re: Timi time
« Last post by Hyperacme on February 23, 2018, 02:07:01 PM »
Guess I'm just saying ... Lasted 25 years done half azzed ... Should last 50 years if done right ...
Pro's and con's with any method used, so it's what ever idea sounds best to you.
Hope ya last another 50 years Mike ... I hate funerals !
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General Discussion / Re: Stringer removal
« Last post by Plugcheck on February 23, 2018, 01:46:37 PM »
        Use a cut off wheel, vibra tool, sawzall, or equivalent machinery to cut through the fiber glass holding the stringer in place about half way down.   Some cut off just the top, its just a matter of preference.  You can cut a bit into the wood, but try to cut through the fiberglass only.  At some point the entire top of the stringer will be exposed.  Use a chisel or pry bar to break the seal of the glass away from the stringer.   If its black/rotten it will separate easily.  Once removed, you have a channel to insert the new stringer into.  Hard part with this method is fitting the bottom curve of the stringer to the hull, but does save material cost in resin and fiberglass.   Hope this explains it, let me know if you need clarification.
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General Discussion / Re: Timi time
« Last post by Plugcheck on February 23, 2018, 01:39:18 PM »
I feel lucky and privileged to have made it past the first 50 mark, so I'm kinda doubting another 50 to go is left in me.   
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Classified / Wanted to Buy / Re: 1979 CV27 Project Wanted
« Last post by Hyperacme on February 23, 2018, 10:30:31 AM »
Jeff ( carlsoncvx18 ) would be the guy to talk to ... He has talked to or looked at almost every CV27 for sale in the last year or two.
He passed on all so far.
It isn't to bad to replace stringers / floor / transom / replace or repair one motor & drive / wet sanding, buffing gel and flake on a CVX16 or CVX18 ...
It would be a HUGE job to do it on a CV27 !
Just my 2 cents.


Glastron / Carlson saleman handbook
http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=7525.0

Glastron / Carlson brochures PDF's (High res)
http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=2908.0

Glastron Carlson Factory Images (low res)
http://www.cgoamn.com/40.html

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General Discussion / Re: Timi time
« Last post by Hyperacme on February 23, 2018, 10:11:30 AM »
If totally sealed condensation might be absorbed by foam, after 50 years.
If drain holes are drilled water will get in and might be absorbed by foam after 50 years.
If all wood is sealed, bottom of floor wood, key hole for drive, speedo pilot tube, tow eyes, etc. it should last at least 50 years.
Think you'll last 50 years Mike ... LOL
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General Discussion / Re: Timi time
« Last post by Plugcheck on February 23, 2018, 09:05:50 AM »
      That had to be super difficult to mount the stringers upside down like that.      Just kidding, looks very similar.   My center stringer is a bit overkill, but I shaped it to fit the center piece into the void left in the keel runner.   My CVZ did not have the same channel.  It ends just before the bulkhead underneath.  I assume to be more stable in turns?
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