Author Topic: Burnin Daylight (Read 107789 times)

OleRed · « **Reply #60 on:** January 08, 2011, 12:06:57 AM »

Just a couple hours on Barbs boat today, but I did get some more of the transom glassed in, and the drive hole trimmed in, got a call from the machine shop and I had to go there for a while.

Rosscoe · « **Reply #61 on:** January 08, 2011, 06:52:20 AM »

Looks great. So based on your discription, layer one and three are the same size and thickness with the middle one sandwiched in being wider and thinner, is that correct?
Total 2" thick at this point.
That should NEVER have to be touched again.

OleRed · « **Reply #62 on:** January 09, 2011, 12:21:32 AM »

the transom is done, hip pockets filled with the foam, hull seam iis sealed with the 3M 5200, will put the boxes in tomorrow, then finish the floor out ... getting closer to the "transplant"

Yes .. I know, the drive holes disappeared .. I'll find them later

Rosscoe · « **Reply #63 on:** January 09, 2011, 08:44:39 AM »

Looks fantastic. Very professional looking.
Did you tint the resin, paint it or use something special?

OleRed · « **Reply #64 on:** January 09, 2011, 10:10:14 AM »

Barb bought some epoxy paint to match the lite color on the hull, I used a lite color gelcoat on the tramson, and the bilge as well, so if the epoxy paint ever , chipped or scratched, it won't be very noticable, like it would be if it had the dark under coat.

CVX Fever · « **Reply #65 on:** January 09, 2011, 06:06:40 PM »

Looking awesome Red! Almost ready to start doing the fun stuff, putting more and newer horses under the hood!

Keep the pictures coming can't wait to see it all done w/new motor and drive installed.

OleRed · « **Reply #66 on:** January 10, 2011, 10:46:37 PM »

Not too much more now, got the grinding done and the floor finished today, and done some study on the flotation boxes, I think I'm gonna do a little re-de-sighning back there, when I get them built in, then I'll mount the drive thru assy.

Hotwired · « **Reply #67 on:** January 11, 2011, 10:59:18 AM »

Looking great! What is with the orange strip in the middle of the last picture? Is that just an area that did not get the last layer of glass?

OleRed · « **Reply #68 on:** January 11, 2011, 11:43:00 AM »

Thats the color of the MEKP (activator) that kicks the resin, the color cure's clear, I use a bit more of it to kick the resin off since it's so cool. it had not cured when I took that pic.

wexrocks · « **Reply #69 on:** January 11, 2011, 11:56:06 PM »

hmmm... MEKP....

yeah, I have that in my basement as well...

but, a little uneasy about that (considering the amount). did you know that MEKP is a key ingredient to the manufacturing of crystal meth?

now obviously, they could look around any of our shops and see what we are actually using it for, but still...

also, in case anyone doesn't know, very flamable!

OleRed · « **Reply #70 on:** January 12, 2011, 09:50:24 AM »

I use MEK, (methyl ethyl ketone), rather than Acetone to clean up my brushes, cups, and tools after a lay-up, I also use it to thin the resin, or top coat to brush on, or spray, in my opinion, it works better than Acetone, much faster, and Yes, as with Acetone, or any other type of petrolem product, it is very combustable, and is a skin and lung irritant, I wear surgical gloves when I use it, and ofter a resperated mask, and I do my cleaning and mixing with it in another room, not in the same room with a flame producing heater. The MEKP (methyl ethyl ketone peroxide) I use to activate the resin (kick) and I'll mix it with the resin to a ratio of about 1 1/2 ounce to a gallon, or a more for cooler temperature.

OleRed · « **Reply #71 on:** January 12, 2011, 10:08:17 PM »

I been working on the flotation boxes today, should get them finished tomorrow. I left a space in the port side box for the tilt/trim pump, and a space for the battery in the starboard box, Barb has requested a slide out of some sort for the battery, and I agree, it was pretty difficult to remove and replace the battery where it was located, just forward of the port side of the engine, there is not enough room between the exhaust manifolds, hoses and the engine deck for the battery to be put through, so it must go in front of the engine. I have changed location of the battery to the starboard side, nearer the starter, and will be installing an isolation switch near the battery also.

Hotwired · « **Reply #72 on:** January 13, 2011, 10:28:39 AM »

Do you use any fasteners other than the glass to assemble the panels? Your work always looks great. I have used pin nailers/brad nailers to hold stuff together while I apply the glass but have a tenancy to split the panels when putting them together. I never notice that in your work.

OleRed · « **Reply #73 on:** January 13, 2011, 11:07:00 AM »

yep, I use some little skinny nails about 1" long. and I favor the back side so the split is not so visable it it splits ..

CVX Fever · « **Reply #74 on:** January 14, 2011, 09:20:12 AM »

Sounding like a broken record but once again nice work Red! How far are you from MN? Wanna rebuild a CVX18 next winter?......LOL

OleRed · « **Reply #75 on:** January 14, 2011, 09:45:33 AM »

796 miles to Red Wing
and I'll be looking for a winter project next year I'm sure, I'm gonna spend the rest of this winter on the Scimitar, the Yellow Jacket, and Jerry's GT-2 seater.

I got some more work done on Barb's Intimidator, she has bought a Real sound system for it, but we are not wanting to cut in any speaker holes so I built some speaker brackets on the boxes, that will fit between the side of the seat and the hull, and will build a couple more like that up under the windshield. I guess we will put the amp on top of the port box.

CVX Fever · « **Reply #76 on:** January 14, 2011, 11:19:22 AM »

Quote

796 miles to Red Wing

That would a lot of miles on my PU, probably have to use the wife's truck to bring it down!

Red - The guy that installed the stereo in my brother's Intimidator built 4 panels that sat in each corner of the cockpit at a 45 degree angle. Sorry, don't have pictures. He ran them down to the floor and high enough that the tops were out of sight under the deck/gunnels. The were cut so that the edges follwed the contours of the floor, hull sides and bulkhead. I'm guessing he used 1/4" ply and then wrapped with matching vinyl (left over from the seats were redone), backed with 1/2" foam. Looked real sharp and didn't require cutting up the boat. Just a thought for Barb's boat.

Rosscoe · « **Reply #77 on:** January 15, 2011, 08:55:52 AM »

Red did you shoot foam under the floor back near the motor mounts too? It looks like there are some drain holes into the bilge area. Just wondering if there is any drainage needed now that that rest of the floor is all foamed.

OleRed · « **Reply #78 on:** January 15, 2011, 10:44:12 AM »

Yes, it's all full of foam now, no need for any drain holes. My objective is to keep any water from getting under the floor, the whole floor is completely glassed over with 24 ounce mat to prevent any water from getting under there

OleRed · « **Reply #79 on:** January 16, 2011, 10:13:35 PM »

Up-date on Barbs boat ... I had planned on having it ready to put the motor in Saturday, that just didn't happen, but it's about ready for it now, I'm gonn secure all the wiring for, tilt/trim pump, bilge pump and blowers & wired in before the motor goes in, couple more days I guess, there is Not much room in there to hook stuff up around the motor for sure.