Wet sanding

[Rosscoe]

I started wet sanding on the Surflite yesterday and I am not too pleased with how its going so far. Probably too early to pass judgement but its a pain. I am not getting very consistant results. The finish is not uniform and I am not sure if its because I missed spots or its just in bad condition. What the heck, it is 50 years old. I am going to do more work with the buffer and compound today and focus more on one spot until I get what I think is the best I can get.
I have been using some "restorer" after sanding but I think I'd like something a bit more abrasive. Who makes good liquid "rubbing compound" as opposed to "polishing compound"?
I was using paste type stuff on the 175 and that doesnt work so good with a buffer. Really gums up the bonnets.
I'll post some "after" pics later if I can get some good results. Here are a few I took before I started anything. You can see how chalky it is.

[Rich_V174SS]

3M has a heavy duty rubbing compound, our guys used it all the time at the boat shop.

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Marine/Home/Products/Catalog/?PC_7_RJH9U5230GE3E02LECIE20S4K7_nid=GSFKDG7HK3be9NQK7NZ8TZgl

[Rosscoe]

Also, any suggestions as to what I might try where the color is WAY off. In one pic, (other post) it shows where some registration numbers were once and that area actually feels raised above the rest. Maybe more aggressive sanding is needed. Thats all I can think of.
I noticed too that there is no bilge area. There is a hole where water is suppose drain down under the floor and out the hole. No access to installing a bilge plug from the inside and personally, I never liked the idea of having them outside. I may saw out an area back there like it is on my 163. Just an access area about the size of a small plate.
Mark, if you see this, you can see the shape of the pedestal that was once under the front seat. Looks like a different method then yours.

I need more room...or less stuff.

[Rosscoe]

Thanks Rich. I think I'll pick some up if I can find it locally.
Might need a 55 gal drum 

[Hotwired]

I use the 3M? Super Duty Compound, 05954 also.  That stuff works great.  Paired with 3M Marine Finesse-It II Finishing Material, one pint (product number
09048) will finish it to a mirror finish.  I use a buffer made my Milwaukee that is variable speed.  Recommended that you keep the rpm down below 1500. I use the 3M Perfect-It Plus foam polishing pad (part number 05738), which is flat. They seem to last a long time and are easier to rinse out.

I was sent this some time ago and it rigs true every time as to a method:

What you need:

1. Electric buffer - 1500 RPM is perfect, but you can use one up to
2500. Do not use one that is 3000.
2. 3M Perfect-It Plus foam polishing pad (part number 05738), which
is flat, and/or the rounded edge pad (part number 05735)
3. 3M Hookit SBS Backup Pad (part number 05717) or a 3M Perfect-It
Backup Pad (part number 05718)
4. 3M Marine Super Duty Rubbing Compound, one pint (part number 09004)
5. 3M Marine Finesse-It II Finishing Material, one pint (part number
09048)
6. Spray bottle with water in it.

You can find the rubbing compound and finishing material at a BoatUS or
some other marine supply place. I got my pads from a autobody supply
house. I think you can order all this stuff on-line if you do a search.

Here's what you do:

1. Wash the boat with soap and water. Dry it off
2. Put the backup pad on the buffer.
3. Center the polishing pad on the backup pad, attaching the velcro
surfaces.
4. Squirt a bead of the rubbing compound on the pad.
5. Smear the rubbing compound around on about a 2'x2' area, without
turning on the buffer.
6. Turn on the buffer and work the rubbing compound, moving the
buffer around constantly. If the compound starts to dry and cake
on the pad, spray some water on the area and continue buffing.
7. When you think you have worked in the compound good enough, move
on to another spot. Repeat this until you finish a major part of
the boat (deck, side, stern, etc.) or do the whole boat.
8. Wipe off dried compound with a terry cloth towel.
9. Rinse out pad or switch to a clean one.
10. Repeat steps 4-8, using the finishing material.
11. Apply your favorite wax. 3M also makes excellent paste or liquid
waxes (part numbers 09030 and 09026).

The boat should look like new now!

[CVX Fever]

I need more room...or less stuff.

Ross you even ride a Polaris a snowmobile. I knew there was a reason I liked you!

I used the same 3M stuff Rich suggested. Worked great. On the bad areas I went 800 and/or 1000 grit first to save time and my arms.

[Rosscoe]

Yup, Chris you did give me the run down before and I even copied and pasted it (somewhere) 
Quite the process you have there. I'm a bit ill prepared. Have the basics of what I thought I'd need. I'm going to spend a few days on it while I'm off and the "finishing" will have to wait until its warmer (than 16 degrees) and I can do some of this outside and not fret about having a "good" boat outside.

Yeah Kip, My brother steered me towards Polaris besides knowing they are reliable machines. From what I understand, most rental places use Polaris and they dont want to be working on them, thats for sure. Considering my lack of maintenance, I've had no real problems with it. Its a 96.
2nd choice would be Ski Doo. I personally do not care to much for "ditch pickles" but there are alot of them around and besides, to each his own. I'd consider buying a Yamaha too but will likely stick with Polaris if anad when I replace my Indy.
My atv is a polaris too.

[dorelse]

Before we get too far off...Arctic Cat's are called Ditch Pickles?  Man...things have changed...in the 70's & 80's they were the best.

[Jerry]

Chris has it down. The thing I do is use a wool pad with the rubbing compound and the white foam pads with the polishing compound and a black foam with the finesse.  The heavy duty compound can tear up a foam pad, and the wool pad is too heavy for the finishing.

[Hotwired]

Using the foam pads you have to be careful to keep them moist.  They do tear up if they dry out not to mention if you get into any sharp metal edges or screws.  The type of buffer makes a good deal of difference too. I run mine real slow, may be 800 rpm with the heavy cutting compound.  And don't wear a good t-shirt!!! That polishing compound does not come out of clothing without a heck of a fight!!!

[wiliermdb]

I used a product by Collinite (purchased from West Marine) that is a Fiberglas cleaner and it really gave excellent results. Followed that with a couple of coats of 3M wax and I have a heck of a time putting my cover on the boat. Keeps sliding off.

If you have a Harbor Freight tool store near you, pick up a variable speed buffer for under $50 when on sale. I was a little worried at first but I've buffed three boats and a full size truck so far without any problems. Comes as a kit.

Marc

[catchnedge]

I noticed too that there is no bilge area. There is a hole where water is suppose drain down under the floor and out the hole.  I may saw out an area back there like it is on my 163. Just an access area about the size of a small plate.
Mark, if you see this, you can see the shape of the pedestal that was once under the front seat. Looks like a different method then yours.

Ross, yeah, a little different... looks like you can secure your seat boxes/benches right to the floor/stringers with screws (recommend putting a little epoxy/sealant in the screw holes). I know you won't have it out in the rain where it will collect water... heck, most of these seats were done that way.  That'll actually make construction/install a little easier than trying to build posts like mine.  What year is your Surflite?...   I guess in the early 60's they started building in a small bilge area... Even my V-166 I cut out two small holes (the size for a blower motor to slip in there) under where my gas tanks sit.  Even though I have a bilge area, the holes that are supposed to drain any collection from under the floor (to the bilge area) sit up off the bottom a little, so I know that not all the water would drain out, even if I open them up.  With the cut outs, it lets it air dry better and I can move the gas tank and put in/turn on the blower motor to force air through the bottom and help it dry quickly if we end up getting rained on, etc.. I plan on doing the same with my 153 at some point.

[Rosscoe]

Well it wasnt a good day. I am very disappointed in the finish. I have the better part of two days into it and it looks like crap!
I havent tried Chris's patented technique yet and it may wait until spring so I can have a running hose of water to wash the gunk off as well as not having to heat the shop.
I have to keep things in perspective.
1.Its 50 years old and has not been cared for.
2. This is not nor did I intend for this to be a Slam dunk. Its a longer term project. I need to get focused more on the 175 I was just hoping for better results during my off time.
On the up side..I found some additional storage space. See pic
This thing might be looking more and more like, as Jerry would put it "Ditch fill" LOL
While I was under the splash well to remove cleats etc, I started poking around and found there was MUD in this back corner. Cleaned that out and discovered the "extra space"
I really am not in love with this boat and thought I might just try to "pretty it up" a bit and sell it. That may be sooner then later. Not that the work scares me at all. I now have a motor lined up too, so....
Got one spot to shine but its still not a consistant color. That was a lot of work and I am still not pleased. Oh well. Looks a heck of a lot better then the before pic.

[Rosscoe]

Another odd thing I spotted...two holes that must be for drainage but why would they drill them into the transom? Maybe they are actually below it? There is one on each side. I may plug them if I open up the bilge in the middle near the plug. I dunno

[Rosscoe]

On the up side, there are a few things that are or might be cool with this thing. I do like the bow light, cept its missing the lenses.
Cleats....they dont make them like this anymore.
Dash emblem
Fins!

[Rosscoe]

So, knowing what I know about boat construction (more then some, less then many)... do they spray the color on as gel coat? Its not paint. I am wondering if it looks like crap because it is thin from age and with my sanding, I may be approaching its under color. I have no idea as to how thick it may have been, but... I can see the fabric texture in places.
I tried to capture the cloudy white shade in pics as well as the color variations. In one, you can see where I took the cleat off. Original color of course under there and I know it will never return to that, but there are also different shades of green where I had been working on it and I just dont know if I need to sand more or what! 

[Rosscoe]

Not exactly on "wet sanding" topic but related to my project. Anyone ever see this kind of drain before? I didnt know what it was from the outside until I got in the inside. There was a cork plug in it. In some ways its cool because the holes are facing back and you could have it open under power but doesnt seem like its in a real practical spot.

[V153]

Keep sanding & polishing until just before the gel coat wears thin. Then stop ...

[Hyperacme]

Gelcoat is pretty thick ... Your kind of removing a layer of it ... Then shining the layer under the faded layer.
Old gel can get hard and start to crack, at least your hasn't started doing that.

[Rosscoe]

Before we get too far off...Arctic Cat's are called Ditch Pickles?  Man...things have changed...in the 70's & 80's they were the best.

Its my topic so you can go off 
Yes I beleive they were good back in the day of the El Tigres and Panthers and may still be. I think they all go thru some "bad years" A friend of my brothers had a pretty new one at the time with very low miles and a burned piston. Parked right next to his wife beat up but running Polaris. That kind of stuck in my mind, among other things.
Friend calls them ditch pickles. I laughed the first time I heard that. I knew immediately what he meant.