Author Topic: Bunk wood (Read 8622 times)

vwbug · « **on:** April 29, 2012, 07:22:11 PM »

What type of wood do you use for the bunk boards and are the bunk rollers any good? or better?

wiliermdb · « **Reply #1 on:** April 29, 2012, 08:58:27 PM »

I used pressure treated 2 x 4's, a little glue and stainless staples. If you're lumber is damp when you get it, let it dry a couple of days before you continue. I just changed a set out on a friends trailer that I made and installed 7 years ago and he's in the water probably 4 or 5 times a month, 9 months out of the year.

Jerry · « **Reply #2 on:** April 30, 2012, 08:14:53 AM »

NO! NO! NO! Pressure treated warps. Use a good hardwood like Oak.

WetRaider · « **Reply #3 on:** April 30, 2012, 08:45:55 AM »

Pressure treated will twist like crazy ... especially if secured at only two points. Think about how wacky deck boards can get when they're screwed down every 12 inches. What about laying a full length piece of flat steel between the bunk risers? You could rest the pine on the flat steel and bolt down every 6-8 inches. I saw 2x4 oak on the Baird Bros website for less than $4/linear foot. More expensive than pine, but cheaper than I expected for oak in a 2 x material.

Jerry · « **Reply #4 on:** April 30, 2012, 09:42:11 AM »

You could use Cedar, or laminate some plywood and resin it.

wiliermdb · « **Reply #5 on:** April 30, 2012, 08:29:13 PM »

Don't know what kind of pressure treated wood you fellas get up there but down here that's all everyone uses. I had a set on my first boat for 5 years, sold it and the guy called me 3 years later to see how much I'd charge to replace them. I've never had a problem with PT warping or twisting on any trailer I've done. As a matter of fact, I'm scheduled to replace the boards on a friends trailer I put on in 2003. I used 2 x 6 PT and glued and stapled the carpet. Nine years out of a set of boards is pretty darn good. They still lay flat against the hull but just falling apart at the mounts. Mine are still straight as an arrow after a year and it's humid here and the boards take forever to dry. Carpet can stay wet for a day or more after the launch.

I've had some people use the faux wood (nylon) deck boards and just countersink a bolt through the top and double layer them. They'll never rot.

dorelse · « **Reply #6 on:** April 30, 2012, 09:45:14 PM »

My boat has PT wood on the trailer as well, no warping.

Don't see how it could with a heavy boat on it keeping it in its shape...now I could see it going all crazy if not forced to lay down.

Some folks say not to use it with an Aluminum trailer though, say the chemicals in the PT react with the Aluminum...don't know whether that's right or wrong.

Rich_V174SS · « **Reply #7 on:** April 30, 2012, 09:49:07 PM »

This is one case where I would think PT wood is appropriate and inexpensive. Just about every trailer I've seen with bunks used carpeted PT wood.

WetRaider · « **Reply #8 on:** May 01, 2012, 12:48:04 PM »

Doran might be exactly right ... if you keep the boat on the trailer, the wood would most likely retain it's cut shape. For those that trailer to the lake and leave the trailer sitting empty for a period of time, exposure to sunlight & constant re-wetting are probably the main cause. I stand by my assertion that deck boards warp all wacky - even if it's just cupping.

Cedar, on the other hand, won't rot & can handle the moisture. It does swell a bit when really wet, but it might be a good second choice.

Jerry · « **Reply #9 on:** May 01, 2012, 03:22:07 PM »

Here's yer choice. Use PT just to prove your point (maybe), or use Cedar because you know it will work.

wiliermdb · « **Reply #10 on:** May 01, 2012, 07:23:47 PM »

I guess it's just a matter of opinion and personal experience. I've always used PT and have never had an issue with it. My fence is PT and is still straight after 3 hurricanes and 12 years. My deck is PT and is about 95% as straight as it was when I built it in 2003. Again, three hurricanes later and an annual pressure washing.

The only place I can get cedar in a 2x is a specialty wood shop at $4.50 per foot. Only issue I have with cedar is it's too soft and the bolts loosen after awhile. PT isn't as soft and I've never had an issue with the bolts digging in and getting loose. Cypress would be great but it's way expensive. I can build a set of 8' boards from PT, carpet and bolts for about $25. I always inspect the PT 2x and get the pieces with least knots and I usually luck up and get really nice clean boards. Mine are attached in three spots.

vwbug · « **Reply #11 on:** May 02, 2012, 03:02:42 AM »

Thanks for the response,

My bunks are 7 feet long and attached in 4 places, I'll go the home depot check the cost of differnt wood.

WetRaider · « **Reply #12 on:** May 02, 2012, 08:45:38 AM »

Quote from: wiliermdb on May 01, 2012, 07:23:47 PM

The only place I can get cedar in a 2x is a specialty wood shop at $4.50 per foot.

http://www.bairdbrothers.com/1-12-x-3-12-Red-Oak-Lumber-P3830.aspx - 2x4 red oak for $3.93/foot .... $28 per bunk for solid oak + your shipping costs

V153 · « **Reply #13 on:** May 02, 2012, 07:20:28 PM »

For some reason or another a buddy of mine wound up with a bunch of 2x4'n 2x6 awhile back, made from recycled milk jugs. Musta been an experimental batch cuz the 'wood' had a nasty tendency to smell like spoilt milk. I kid you not. However, in retrospect, I think it woulda made just fine for trailer bunks. And if'n ya left it in the sun'n dunked it salt water often enough it'd probly stop stinking ...?

wiliermdb · « **Reply #14 on:** May 02, 2012, 08:49:33 PM »

- 2x4 red oak for $3.93/foot .... $28 per bunk for solid oak + your shipping costs

Oh, is that all. I just checked and two 8 foot sections delivered to my door would only run me $98 and change. Two boards with carpet over $100. Not gonna happen. Then, my trailer has four boards. $200 plus hardware. Nope. I'll stick with my tried and true PT boards. Just finished the set for my friends trailer. Will be installing them Saturday morning.

Jerry · « **Reply #15 on:** May 02, 2012, 08:51:13 PM »

Ain't much salt water around here Doug, but we get that smell from Wisconsin every so often. They call it cheese.
Good luck on the lumber. Here's a picture of my old VW Bug.

74 Carlson the II · « **Reply #16 on:** May 02, 2012, 10:32:21 PM »

Most trailer makers like Triton, Shorelander, Ez loader use PT wood for there bunks. If you use cedar it will crack and split over time as it dries out.

MarkS · « **Reply #17 on:** May 03, 2012, 04:36:03 AM »

I started to comment (throw in my two cents) on this thread when it first posted, but figured it was going to be one of those "agree to disagree" subjects. (Turns out that was the case.) Personally, having had bunk boards break (from rotting) before made out of "regular" wood, I use PT. The trick is to let them dry out as much as possible before mounting, as mentioned earlier here. The last set I fabricated I had to put weights on them while drying out (several weeks in the garage) to keep them from warping, but once they dried out they were fine. This last set I even coated (3 coats) with spar urethane before putting the carpet on the boards, they should outlast me!

vwbug · « **Reply #18 on:** May 05, 2012, 02:27:35 AM »

Does it Matter what carpet you use? looks like a blue Shag on it on. Jerry love the Bug was it a V8? Looks like 1955?

MarkS · « **Reply #19 on:** May 05, 2012, 03:46:30 AM »

Quote from: vwbug on May 05, 2012, 02:27:35 AM

Does it Matter what carpet you use?

I use the indoor/outdoor stuff from HD without the rubber backing. It drains and dries quicker, doesn't hold as much moisture next to the wood.