SSV-164 first test on the water after rebuilt engine

[rmorit01]

Wanted to provide an update on my 81 SSV-164.

Lat summer I purchased it and to make a long story short cracks in the manifold led to water in the oil and an engine rebuild.

Worked with a great mechanic in my home town of Madison, WI who was willing to take on the project and helped solve some other problems as they cropped up. Like replacing the front engine motor mount that was crumbling.

We took it for a test run today, and all went OK.  Main issue was that the manifold was getting hotter than expected so we brought in and will check the water circulator.  Would like to install a temperature gauge and trim gauge since my stock dash only has a temperature light - suggestions for options would be appreciated.

Attached are some pictures from today -

Launching


Engine Bay


Top View


Front View

[Plugcheck]

Sharp looking boat.  My 16ss had the same powerplant, but had a dash temp gauge.  Never got above 170 degrees.  A gauge could always be added, but if you go through and insure good cooling water supply, you'll likely find no need for a gauge.  Even when I thought mine was hot, I could still touch the manifold with bare hand, not long mind you, but not like it was boiling hot either.

[dorelse]

I know you've had some initial challenges, but that is a beautiful boat!!!

[Hyperacme]

Looking forward to meeting you in August.

[Jason]

Yes. Beautiful boat! Glad you finally got things figured out.

[Rosscoe]

Nice looking craft!
Do you have any spots in your dash for temp and trim gauges?

[Jason]

I'd leave dash original. To be honest you would probably see the light before a creeping needle during an overheat.

[Plugcheck]

     Same thought as Jason, that original dash is better left alone, aesthetically speaking,  but that is just an opinion.  If you absolutely are set on a gauge, I'd consider a pod mount elsewhere.   Hope to see ya at TI.

[rmorit01]

I'd leave dash original. To be honest you would probably see the light before a creeping needle during an overheat.

I would definitely leave the dash alone and not cut it into it (no room anyway).

With the new engine,  the temp gauge would just give me some piece of mind as I break in the engine.

My thought was since the engine has the temp sender and wiring  to the light, I could even just temporarily add a guage - my assumption is that the sender for the light would be correct for a gauge and I wouldn't need to switch sending units (not sure if that is true though).

After researching trim gauges and the sending unit required, I am thinking way too much hassle to add sensors, senders etc...

Lastly, in terms of the temp light, should it come on when the key is turned to the on position like the oil light?  The bulb may be burnt out since it doesn't come on with the switch in the on position.

Bob

[75starflight]

I would think it would light up in the on position and then go out like any indicator light would. I would heck the bulb.

[Plugcheck]

Oil pressure and charging system failure lamps are generally wired to sensors with normally closed contacts, so those lamps will light with ignition on when engine is not on, but temp warning sensors are usually normally open.  The temp sense wire could be used as most sending units are resistance to ground sender's with one wire. 

[rmorit01]

Oil pressure and charging system failure lamps are generally wired to sensors with normally closed contacts, so those lamps will light with ignition on when engine is not on, but temp warning sensors are usually normally open.  The temp sense wire could be used as most sending units are resistance to ground sender's with one wire.

Thanks for the info -

[Tmstibbe]

Looks just like the one I ordered new way back then.  Same color combo, no flake.  Mine came with the 120, I see this has a 140.  Mine originally had the orange and white panels in the seat covers.   I loved the 2 rear coolers.   I could load each side with 18 cans of beer.   Hope to see it at TI Redwing.  Mine came from a boat dealership in Eau Claire, and I live in La Crosse.   It had side curtains and rear curtain.  Tom Stibbe

[rmorit01]

Update today on the reason for why we saw the exhaust manifold getting a bit  too warm on the first run after re-installing the rebuilt motor.

An old piece of broken off water pump impeller was blocking the water flow in the system.  Mechanic said he took a picture of it.  Also said it was likely there for some period of time since the old water impeller he removed was in tact.

Tomorrow it will be in my hands and out on the water for some first test runs this weekend.

I will see if I can get the picture of the chunk and where it was blocked - Bob

[CVX Fever]

Boat looks great!

In addition to gages you could also ad an audible alarm. Audible alarms have saved me from damaging at least 2 V8 marine engines. In both cases the temp. gage spiked but I didn't noticed anything was wrong until the alarm went off. And trust me, I monitor my gages all the time. This kit from Cole Hersee is for engine temp. and oil pressure.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=11377

[rmorit01]

Last night I got the old numbers off and started peeling off the layers of boat registration stickers.  This is what was the last layer (or first layer in time).  Looks like the original boat registration for Minnesota.

[rmorit01]

I wanted to attached the picture of the old impeller that the mechanic found stuck in the water passage.

Not sure if this caused the problem and led to overheating and the manifolding cracking but it was just interesting to see.

Mechanic said that the impeller he replaced was not missing any pieces in it so this must have been inside for some period of time.

[Rich_V174SS]

I doubt it would cause a manifold to crack but it certainly could restrict water flow.