Will I ever get the red back?

[pyro225]

So just had the cvx16 project delivered and seen someone's had a go at the corner - it's very shiny but not very red! If I wet and dry deep enough will I find some more red or is the best I'm going to get a flakey shined faded colour?

[pyro225]

You can see the shine on the R

[nes-cv23]

Yes, I know a way!   As long as there is no damage to the fiberglass. A fresh coat of clear will work. Sand it all down being carful not to go through the red. Than when I put the first coat on I used about 10% red tint in it. which if I do it again I would use only 5%. Very light on the tint.  And then a couple more coats of just clear. Let it dry,wet sand, and buff. And it turned out very nice with the flakes still shining through.

[pyro225]

Brilliant thanks - now I have spent the morning rubbing down at 800 -1200 then mop with compound if I could hide the red the actual colour is quite a nice copper colour.

Where can I get the original metal rails from the back?

The boat name is in red but I could either sticker over or leave as it looks quite cool...

Finally everything if I can get the metal work will be covered except a strap mark on one side from where some genius left the trailer in the sun... any way to fade that patch as weird as it sounds?

[pyro225]

If I were to go your way I don't have a compressor etc would a couple of cans of this work? dartfords Tinted Nitrocellulose Guitar Lacquer (Red (Light), 400ml Aerosol Spray Can) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00A236464/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6fiGzbG77JVM5

[nes-cv23]

Yes, it would work... But imho NO!    Borrow or rent a compressor from someone and use one of the h.v.l.p. Gravity feed guns. There almost foolproof.

[pyro225]

Ok - I have found a company that makes it but in an automotive capacity - I have ordered a rattle can to test it if it turns out ok in a small area I shall get the compressed and a couple of litres of the stuff ...
how smooth does it need to be? I've rubbed it back to 1500 grit it now feels like 1500 grit?

Also will it cover up bits that are less oxidised?

Finally I caught some of the white and rubbed it a bit far back and the re gelcoat is under that too!

[nes-cv23]

You get what you pay for in a rattle can in my opinion... 1500 might be too smooth... Anyone?.... You want the clear to stick.    No you will still see ruthless and anything else that's not covered.    There was pin striping on mine and you can still see where it was.. Some people would call it "ghost" pin striping now.  What do you mean by the re gelcoat?  "rubbed it a bit far back and the re gelcoat is under that too".    Pictures will help a lot

[pyro225]

Hi all - gave this a go on one side now - rubbed back to 1500 - although may well do 1000 next time - stupidly I forgot to fill holes so will get some epoxy and glitter to fill them tomorrow.

Looks pretty good - it seems to hid the half oxidized stuff but now the from factory coat like ruthless.
Got a fairly even coverage but will do another layer at some point after filling the holes.

Is there a problem leaving long periods of time between coats?
How long until I can't cut it back with 2000-3000 grit and polish it?

[pyro225]

Ok I am about halfway with this now but not the best painter so it's a little darker in parts - would you just put a put a few more times on to darken the lot or rub it back a little bit and even it that easy and then put regular clear on? Cheers!

[Hyperacme]

Wonder why it got blotchy (dark spots) ?

[pyro225]

Yea that's what I'm wondering if i should apply more or sand them back a bit?

[pyro225]

Just rubbed back one of the blotches doesn't seem any thicker and got back to the flake which makes me either think it was mixed right or the gel was slightly different in that patch --- guessing the best thing to do is run them back and the blow them in - the side blotches disappeared pretty much when dry

[84carlson]

Here's a little inspiration for you, not sure it was red from the factory.  But  this is the twin..

[Plugcheck]

Rattle can paints have their place, but the big reason they are not used to paint cars/trucks/boats etc is that you simply can not apply enough to keep a wet edge.  Secondly, the pattern is too tight, you need a wider fan pattern.    The product can be the same, but the result will not be.  It's a harder way to do it, but honestly it looks good for using that method. 

[pyro225]

Ok I've ordered some more and some 2 pack clear for the top let's see how it works /

[pyro225]

Just an update as I have been busy with work and family things...

So if I had known about the floor and transom prior to starting the paintwork I would have done those first however as I was halfway through the paintwork I decided to finish that off first.

I ended up getting a friend for a 14 hours and a few bucks, and we cut open the aerosols and put them in his spray gun/compressor. The finish is a fair bit better. There are still a couple of overlap hot spots but when the suns on her you'll never spot them. We also ended up rewhiting the whole thing and filling the spider cracks... this was NEVER part of my plan but once the red was done the white looks very poor indeed.

We then shot a couple of coats of clear over the lot and she look really nice now in the sunshine. Probably needs cutting back to get a perfect shine in a couple of weeks but overall I am happy. I have put all the metal work back on that won't interfere with the hull split and am now in the process of repairing my original glastron badges while I wait for my resin to arrive

Once they are on ill put up some pics...