Author Topic: Cvx16 oem stringer/floor/ransom questions (Read 18731 times)

thedeuceman · « **Reply #40 on:** September 04, 2017, 07:22:54 AM »

All three boats I have redone (stringers, transom, floor) had plywood stringers and that's what I replaced them with. I think even if I took dimensional lumber out of a boat I would tend to put plywood in it's my opinion that it's going to be stronger, and it's easier to deal with but there are several different ways to do this right. I also use marine plywood, mostly because it is readily available to me, I know exterior grade plywood will hold up just as well but the marine stuff is void free and is a lot denser.
You made several comments about the fiberglass being good and clean, in order to get new resin and glass to adhere you're going to need to grind it was something course like 60 or 40 grit. I also whether you add a center stringer or decide to replace or sister a new stringers to the outer ones besides glassing it down you need to put tabs on the side, that is bias going down the side of the stringer and across the hull for a couple of inches to get the strength.
I hope that I didn't misunderstand any of your questions/comments and that I have help to answer some of them.

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pyro225 · « **Reply #41 on:** September 04, 2017, 07:36:18 AM »

No great reply many thanks! I was going to put a wire brush on the drill to roughen it up... how far up the bow does it go normally?

I'm struggling to understanding the tabs on the side any pics? I was just going to wrap it and glass it and put some new cross members in are you saying I've missed a step? :-)

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Plugcheck · « **Reply #42 on:** September 04, 2017, 08:11:17 AM »

A wire brush may not adequately roughen the existing surface to allow new resin to properly bond. You're looking to have some grooves and fibers to grab onto. Tabs or tabbing is strips of fiberglas cloth, mat, biax or similar that form a 90 degree angle to reinforce stringers and transoms to the glass hull. When you pulled out the rotten stringers, the glass channels that remained were the previous tabbing.

Oldfishguy · « **Reply #43 on:** September 04, 2017, 08:54:54 AM »

Your probably going to have to trim the single stringer in the aft a bit. Trial fit your stringer and floor boards and cut the stringer so the floor sits flat with the slight groove on each side of the hull. I had my plywood floor in three sections so they were easy pieces to handle in this trial fitting process. Make sure it all fits nice before starting with the resin.

The ugly part is done for you in ripping it all out; now comes the fun part of reassembly.

Best of luck.

pyro225 · « **Reply #44 on:** September 04, 2017, 09:16:30 AM »

Great thanks guys so it doesn't sound like anyone can see a problem running the single stringer setup I think I will go with a length of 3x2 non treated pine than, the tabbing I understand now rather than 90 round the wood it's 90degrees to the floor... I will use a sander and paper as well then if that's not man enough- I have not done all the ugly yet I have the transom to do yet not sure weather to take the cap off and do all these in one hit or stringer and floor first and then transom separately. At least I can now order all materials...

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Hyperacme · « **Reply #45 on:** September 04, 2017, 10:13:31 AM »

Glastron did double stringers on some models like there tri-hulls, but floor (plywood board) went from edge of hull to other edge.
See picture "v156stringer" & "v156floor"

My floor is only 2 feet 6 inches wide at it's widest point near transom ...
See picture "floorTab2" , red line is distance.

Single stringer makes more sense, and is how all USA version were done.
Wondering if your boat hasn't already been rebuilt by a previse owner ?

As Mike said ... we all have gone into rebuilds hoping for a quick easy fix, only to find out we'll need a complete rebuild.
Take your time, remove and grind out everything, you'll be happy you did in the end ...

pyro225 · « **Reply #46 on:** September 04, 2017, 11:53:58 AM »

Thanks Gregg - the tab pic shows one stringer and the stringer two is that two different boats? The tab pic - so do I go with mat from the outer point up the stringer at 90 degrees and glasses? It may have been done but looks pretty standard the center is like new not any history of a previous stringer...
Do you glass the underside of he floor and did glastron? My ssv151 and this just had resin paint on the bottom - is that normal? Same as transom on both. Think I will go pine unless anyone tells me not to... cheers

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pyro225 · « **Reply #47 on:** September 04, 2017, 11:57:56 AM »

Oh yes also is the aft the bow btw not sure of this term is so do I only run stringer straight as far as it will go or do i need to bend it some how?

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pyro225 · « **Reply #48 on:** September 04, 2017, 12:50:14 PM »

Just had a remeasure biggest I cou get in from red to front seats is 3x2 but then as we are in the bow part the floor seem to come out and in the opening right at the front under the bulkhead you could get 6x2 in it ... my question is can I just use 3x2 all the way?

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Hyperacme · « **Reply #49 on:** September 04, 2017, 01:09:24 PM »

Pictures "v156floor" & v156Stringer" are of a 1970 Glastron V-156 tri-hull.
Note how floor go's all the way from edge of hull to other edge

Picture "FloorTab2" is a picture of my 1976 CV16.
Note how floor board only go's from one chime to the other, only two and one half feet wide.

The floor in your CVX16 should be about that width, going from one chime / stake to the other, maybe under three feet.
I never measured my stringer because it was still solid and not in need of replacement.

Cut out floor, save seat boxes for measurements latter, remove stringers, grind out old fiberglass and tabbing.
Lay straight edge between chimes / stakes where floor wood would sit in chime and take measurement along the length of hull.
That will tell you height of wood you need.
Width shouldn't be more then two inches.

You could make a pattern with something and make adjustments or just use wood and add shims for low spots along hull/ floor.

From Chad's pictures ... Looks like the floor is only about two and a half feet wide.
Not sure how you can get up under deck to replace stringer ?

pyro225 · « **Reply #50 on:** September 04, 2017, 01:36:16 PM »

Yea I'm thinking I will need to take the cap off to glass and tabbing...

The old stringers look like they are raised near the bulk head ... here are some pics - also I have just had the glass off the top of the old stringers a few hours and they are a lot drier already so I think I will leave them but of bonus strength :-)

I also found something not nice on the outside lower hull in the middle - 4 rust spots either side??? Any ideas what this is? One of the feels like there is some metal coming out that's rusting - pics too...

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pyro225 · « **Reply #51 on:** September 04, 2017, 01:59:25 PM »

I hate to disagree but I am convinced it's original still and they were just built very very badly as I say the roger Clarke's both I've had didn't have any resin on the transom back or the top of the floors...and the fact the center floor is mint like fresh from the factory but I digress...

Are you saying these are screws from the stringers? And if so what the best way to fix this mess... this really is the gift that keeps giving

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thedeuceman · « **Reply #52 on:** September 04, 2017, 02:49:23 PM »

Hard to say why or how they got there but yer gonna need to get them out then patch the holes. I suspect that part of that stringer is gonna be in rough shape :-(

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pyro225 · « **Reply #53 on:** September 04, 2017, 04:14:02 PM »

Great it just keeps getting better! I didn't think they used screws or bolts in assembly? What the best bet drill them from the outside then put mat down and resin on the inside and gelcoat from the outside?will this be strong enough?

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pyro225 · « **Reply #54 on:** September 04, 2017, 04:25:39 PM »

Also meant to say I did see an alternative method to fix that others seemed to praise when a couple of screws went through. Take the crap out then drill hole out a size or two bigger then counter sink both ends. Put tap on outside and fill with epoxy... pull tape off - job done... apparently it should never move as it is a bar bell shape - thoughts?

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Hyperacme · « **Reply #55 on:** September 05, 2017, 08:29:06 AM »

Sorry last post was on my phone at a stop light and didn't make any sense ... couldn't proof read.
Except the "OMG !" statement ...

Looks like when they screwed down the plywood floor over the old floor they used screws that were to long and went thru hull.
You can fix them using the method posted. I would not fill holes completely, but leave some room to apply gel coat patches to match hull color.

Plugcheck · « **Reply #56 on:** September 05, 2017, 09:49:41 AM »

I can only offer a "This is what I would do" statement as there are several ways to fix the problems. Anything that penetrates the hull needs to be completely removed and cleaned up. I'd use a couple layers of cloth and resin to patch the holes from the inside, then use peanut butter(Glass fibers and resin) from the outside, sand, then finish with gel till smooth. The inside patches need to become larger as they go on. Maybe even add a 8" wide strip aft to stern over all of it to prevent stress from re-opening these now weakened spots. From the looks of it, maybe they used screws to attach the stringers? At some point you will get to the lowest level in the project, then begin the build up. Take your time, you will be happy you did.

pyro225 · « **Reply #57 on:** September 05, 2017, 03:33:27 PM »

Would my bar bell methods work with polyester resin as they are near the floor I will be using polyester on and I know they don't play nice - if I left 2-3mm on the outside for gelcoat would that do? Is it worth mixing cabosil in with the resin? Or going neat or just the peanut butter method? I have a roll of glass tape so will go over with that on the inside. Never done gelcoat but do you just roughen the edges of existing gel and the top of the new resin and apply? Thanks again all - surely this is my low point!

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pyro225 · « **Reply #58 on:** September 07, 2017, 07:02:40 AM »

Yea I have convinced myself I know what's happened... so we discovered it had a new floor... layer ontop of the old - these are nails no where near the stringers they are right on the edge... it looks like they nailed new floor to old then chucked some glass down! Any idea best way to get them out? Use multi tool inside drill outside?

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Plugcheck · « **Reply #59 on:** September 07, 2017, 07:27:29 AM »

Not good to say the least, and unfortunately you absolutely must remove them and repair the area. If the shank of the nail passed clear through, meaning the hole has no taper to it, I'd grind the inside since you need to anyway for the proper patch, then carefully punch the nail back out from the bottom. On the outside I would use a small burr or stone in a drill/die grinder to clean out the hole and get to solid glass. Patch the inside, a bit of peanut butter on the outside. Cabosil could work, I prefer PB, longer fibers. I save the scraps when I do glass work for this purpose. You could also use an epoxy, then finish with gel coat and sand smooth.