Minnesota Classic Glastron Forum
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: nes-cv23 on January 31, 2017, 05:02:24 PM
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I'm getting antsy to get started on the boats again but I need some pictures of the dash and seats. I think I need to put the original style seats in this one and not just what ever I can find, so I'd like to get some patterns to make the bases and then have them upholstered to match. Also the dash on it looks to be a 75-6 vintage and I'd also like to go original with that. Any one out there with patterns and or pictures?
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My CV is a 1972 hull with a 1973 color and interior (believed to be a left over hull)
My floor rebuild thread has some pictures and videos for reference. Interior is original except for carpet.
http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=5298.0 (http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=5298.0)
And, of course the modern radio is not original (and that bugs me a little more each day).
(http://i1352.photobucket.com/albums/q650/dweeres1/008_zpsbt2ckfwp.jpg) (http://s1352.photobucket.com/user/dweeres1/media/008_zpsbt2ckfwp.jpg.html)
(http://i1352.photobucket.com/albums/q650/dweeres1/Restoration%20Projects/008_zpsf927ceb5.jpg) (http://s1352.photobucket.com/user/dweeres1/media/Restoration%20Projects/008_zpsf927ceb5.jpg.html)
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Check here for seat frames, not the best, but all we got ...
http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=3820.0 (http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=3820.0)
Had mine apart (vinyl removed) but didn't want to remove foam to get better measurements, my foam was still good and wasn't going to come off easy, started tearing were it was glued to wood.
I have vinyl seat patterns, but ED is using them now, he is also building seat frames from pictures/measurements at above link and will get better measurements when done.
As soon as he ship's vinyl pattern back, I'll let you know ...
My CV is in my garage, so your welcome to come over and look, and /or take measurements any time.
I found some vinyl under deck that was still in good shape, color wise and used that as a base for my vinyl, came close to original color.
Got my vinyl online after sending for samples, some of the samples that looked close on computer were way off in person.
Do a "Google" search for "pleated marine vinyl" ... bring your sample to local shops to see if they can come close to color.
And look here ...
http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=6883.0 (http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=6883.0)
A friend did my seat backs, seat bottoms and splash well curtain, I was able to do the side pads, looks like you still have the wood in side pads for patterns ...
I got enough to do everything with a little extra in case something went wrong or I got a stain/hole/burn in seat bottom.
Pleated vinyl = 5 yards
Plain vinyl = 4 yards
Piping/welting = 18 yards
Burl wood decal for seat bases ...
http://www.metrorestyling.com/Flexible-Burl-Wood-Woodgrain-Vinyl-Wrap-Film-p/burlwood.htm (http://www.metrorestyling.com/Flexible-Burl-Wood-Woodgrain-Vinyl-Wrap-Film-p/burlwood.htm)
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Some pictures of a 1976 Red CV16 ...
Seats had square patterns embossed into them, steering wheel would have been this style, stern pad would have been plain vinyl, not pleated like older models.
Yours has ...
1974 and newer plastic dash.
1975 and older steering wheel.
Is your stern pad plain or pleated ?
Is your deck emblem a "CV" or a "GT" decal ?
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The 1973 CV16 has a different deck, dash & windshield ...
The 1973 CV16 below has the wrong steering wheel, original one would be like yours.
Also looks like he used plain vinyl on side pads, original would have been pleated.
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Didn't you get a plastic dash ?
http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=6338.0 (http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=6338.0)
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CV16SS dash / boat, not in great shape but ....
1975 Glastron Carlson CV-16 Project boat - $500 (Superior
http://duluth.craigslist.org/boa/5982210652.html (http://duluth.craigslist.org/boa/5982210652.html)
(https://images.craigslist.org/00B0B_9zL8hv6MZ30_1200x900.jpg)
(https://images.craigslist.org/00U0U_aPt0rPWZtgO_1200x900.jpg)
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The badge on top has a gt on it. All the vinyl was gone looks to have been pleated. yes,I did get that plastic dash. But I just like the look of the 73 and older dashes. I would like to know how this 74-5 dash and windshield got on this boat and the fact that it's red is another ? I have. It also has the older "jetsons" stern light. With all the work I've done to it so far, it sure looks to be original. I did talk to the guy in Duluth with the ss but he doesn't want to part it out yet. But I'll probably go up there and get it because there are a few parts on it I could use on my other projects.
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The plastic dash on your CV would not fit on a 1973 deck.
Totally different fiberglass mold . Remove plastic and look at what's behind it .
I would guess the serial number is wrong.
BUT ... i've been wrong before ...
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I thought the dash was just trimed out differently and now I see it's a hole diff. mold... I will be putting the plastic one back on. So now I just need to make some seats and base's. Thanks for the pictures of dash's. Anyone have a full size pattern of the seats that I can trace?
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Some pictures of a 1976 Red CV16 ...
Seats had square patterns embossed into them, steering wheel would have been this style, stern pad would have been plain vinyl, not pleated like older models.
Yours has ...
1974 and newer plastic dash.
1975 and older steering wheel. The red one is older, possibly a 73.
1974 Glastron CV16 in purple
https://www.google.com/search?q=1974+Glastron+CV16+in+purple&tbm=isch&imgil=ExFn34YzTf--AM%253A%253B5h5xrVsUTc-AaM%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fcollectorboats.com%25252Fgalleries-of-photos%25252F&source=iu&pf=m&fir=ExFn34YzTf--AM%253A%252C5h5xrVsUTc-AaM%252C_&usg=__h2JEPz8y9RosHTsgVZgmWKRsXLQ%3D&biw=1032&bih=514&ved=0ahUKEwiQnYTh5fTRAhVKVWMKHaWrAtcQyjcIJw&ei=3-uUWNCxFsqqjQOl14q4DQ#imgrc=ExFn34YzTf--AM: (https://www.google.com/search?q=1974+Glastron+CV16+in+purple&tbm=isch&imgil=ExFn34YzTf--AM%253A%253B5h5xrVsUTc-AaM%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fcollectorboats.com%25252Fgalleries-of-photos%25252F&source=iu&pf=m&fir=ExFn34YzTf--AM%253A%252C5h5xrVsUTc-AaM%252C_&usg=__h2JEPz8y9RosHTsgVZgmWKRsXLQ%3D&biw=1032&bih=514&ved=0ahUKEwiQnYTh5fTRAhVKVWMKHaWrAtcQyjcIJw&ei=3-uUWNCxFsqqjQOl14q4DQ#imgrc=ExFn34YzTf--AM:)
1975 Image:
https://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http%3A%2F%2Fi131.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fp286%2FHyperacme%2F01%2520History%2520CV16%2F1976%2F1976CV16r1_zpswxnuobco.jpg&imgrefurl=http%3A%2F%2Fforum.cgoamn.com%2Findex.php%3Ftopic%3D6358.0&docid=ia6pq-W6NAjwtM&tbnid=2okRbuqQ0H3wCM%3A&vet=1&w=1024&h=506&bih=514&biw=1032&q=74%20glastron%20carlson%20cv%2016&ved=0ahUKEwixwKu44_TRAhUGwWMKHS5NCjgQMwhjKEAwQA&iact=mrc&uact=8#h=506&imgrc=2okRbuqQ0H3wCM:&vet=1&w=1024 (https://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http%3A%2F%2Fi131.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fp286%2FHyperacme%2F01%2520History%2520CV16%2F1976%2F1976CV16r1_zpswxnuobco.jpg&imgrefurl=http%3A%2F%2Fforum.cgoamn.com%2Findex.php%3Ftopic%3D6358.0&docid=ia6pq-W6NAjwtM&tbnid=2okRbuqQ0H3wCM%3A&vet=1&w=1024&h=506&bih=514&biw=1032&q=74%20glastron%20carlson%20cv%2016&ved=0ahUKEwixwKu44_TRAhUGwWMKHS5NCjgQMwhjKEAwQA&iact=mrc&uact=8#h=506&imgrc=2okRbuqQ0H3wCM:&vet=1&w=1024)
Did 73 have the lower side deck behind the railing? I think the earlier I/Os had the change and was added to the Outboards later.
More info here: http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=6358.0 (http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=6358.0)
Model changes for CV 16:
http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=6358.0 (http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=6358.0)
When you recover glue the foam down and put thin clear poly down to waterproof.
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Gregg, thanks for letting me borrow the vinyl seat patterns, it has been very helpful! I want to take them to my upholstery guy and let him see the pattern lay-out. I will try to get them back to you by end of next week so that the other Gentleman can use them.
Gregg and I have had very in-depth conversations on the CV seats. My '71 upholstery along the gunnel was done totally different than the "73 CV I recently purchased. My '73 is very faded, but behind where the seat side board fastens to gunnel, there is a bright blue outline where the seats butted up. I tried to used the dimensions in the link that Gregg posted, but when I cut my cardboard patterns and matched that to the blue outline, it wasn't even close!
I think I have persuaded Gregg on this: from '71 to '73/'74ish there is a big difference in the dimensions on the side board that bolts to gunnel rail (especially in the area of rear passenger seats) the downward angle is not as steep as the front seat area. I have to build my seats from what the bright blue outline tells me, that's my pattern for side board!
Gregg has pics of what I am speaking of, I will do my best to cut accurate templates from my blue cv, I will send Gregg more pics of progress so that we can provide as much info as possible.
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" from '71 to '73/'74ish there is a big difference in the dimensions on the side board that bolts to gunnel rail (especially in the area of rear passenger seats) the downward angle is not as steep as the front seat area. "
Weird but true ...
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Pic cv16p4 is a perfect example of the difference in downward angle of side board on Port side seat. In the front seat area the side board turns down sharply, in the passenger seat area the side board has less taper, gives the seat a more streamlined look. When I got my '71 CV, there was basically no interior to draw ideas from, luckily just when it came time to do the interior on the '71, I got the blue '73, it showed me the perfect outline of the seat side boards and there was still some deck in place with screw hole locations as to where the seat base was fastened, lots of good info from the '73!
I believe that the first 3 years of the CV, they tried to keep the front part of Port and Starboard sideboards similar. On Starboard side, because of the controller, the side board has to take a steep drop to get under controller, they used a similar radius on the Port side but left some taper in it. Past '74 they made the Port side board symmetrical front to back, probably to simplify the upholstery process.
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I got the CV16 seat pattern's back from Ed yesterday ...
If you need them ... let me know ...
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Yes, please. I sent you a message.
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Hello,
My name is Miguel and am in Arizona. I have never posted on sites so am total novice at this. I was desperate to find info on Glastron CV16 and was happy to find this site. I have always had or worked with boats since i was young. I walked away during career and child rearing (except for my Hobie 16 which was my savior). I have picked up a awesome project boat that is metallic green front 74 or 76 CV16 with Evinrude outboard in trade and am embarking on restoring it. I had it covered and well taken care of for the last two years while I had many work and family commitments. I didn't want to post until I verified the year and motor size (i forgot all that pertinent info) but this post has lots of interesting items that pertain to my "voyage".
When i got the boat the seats had been ripped out. I will need to rebuild them at the end of June and am looking for any info on size and look. Any drawings or measurements would be huge. I know this topic is not a live string but hopefully i can get some info.
thanks ahead of time.
miguel mrfCV16
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You've come to the right place to answer all your ? On glastrons, these guys and gals know there stuff.. And we all have options.. You can find all kinds of patterns and styles of seats right on this sight. You just have to look, try the vender section. If your any good with wood tools making the base's for the seats won't be hard. But it will cost a lot to have them upholstered. I've not found anyone to do it for under $1400. If anyone else knows of a good cheap upholster'r please let us know. Good luck.
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Welcome to the forum Miguel !
Please post some pictures of your boat.
The serial number on the right side of your stern will give you the year, Green CV16 outboard should be a 1974 model.
CV16 history is here ...
http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=6918.0 (http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=6918.0)
CV Back to Back Seats...
http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=7005.0 (http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=7005.0)
Online Service Manuals ...
http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=4710.0 (http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=4710.0)
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Thank you nes- c23 and Hyperacme. Those photos are perfect i will study them closer and print them. I will also check out the vendor forum and the links. These are all the photos i have in archive but will uncover the boat and take more detailed shots of the serial numbers.
thanks,
miguel
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hello,
I am back on to refurbishing my cv-16 and to want to get it in the water one day. I had the evinrude serviced and got it up and running. The mechanic said it was actually worth fixing (he is a negative guy). That ate up my funds but am now ready to move on to the inside. I am using the seat information from this thread and was wondering is there more updated seat info before i start. I have to re-sand and seal the new floorboards i had put in. I found the burlwood as you guys suggest and found some of the vinyl based on the links from 2017 on amazon (some of those links didn"t work anymore).
i can use the links from above just wanted to double check. I am searching thru the forum to see if there are any more threads on the dimensions.
thanks again for the great forum.
cheers,
Miguel
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this is photo of stripped down interior....
thx again.
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There is some updated pictures and info here ..
http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=7005.0
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perfect thanks i will review them.
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Some links for vinyl are old or bad ..
Search "green vinyl" - "pleated green vinyl" - "marine vinyl" - "automobile / car vinyl" - etc. in Google.
Find some that looks close and order samples.
Sample's I ordered were not even close to color of vinyl on computer screen, so order every thing that even looks close to color you need.
I found a few small pieces of vinyl under dash that hadn't faded and used them to match color.
Couldn't find perfect match.. but came close to blue that I needed.
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will do...... i did do some searches and found the burlwood both @ the link from CGO forum and from a search online
.. I also found some vinyl on amazon using those links and the names from previous online addresses (iused the keyword searches). I will post once i have the best matches.
thx
m
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I am going to seal the marine plywood Now after sanding it. Are there any opinions on mcclosleys marine grade varnish vs. polyurethane?
Thx
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Are you referring to sealing plywood on floor ?
Or trim pieces ?
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The floor first. I also started the seats and thought I would seal that plywood.
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Think it would be a better idea to cover it with fiberglass and resin.
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I see what your saying. I will look at the links for correct resin and fiberglass. Is there one resin in particular Or link that explains best?
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Would be best to do some reading on the different resins.
Then choose which works best for you.
The subject is like politics and religion .. everyone has there own view.
Some stuff get pretty technical ..
Or .. just find a local fiberglass supply company and talk with them.
polyester resin = your boat was built with this stuff, cheapest
vinyl ester resin = newer version of polyester, mid priced.
epoxy resin = maybe best if done right, less smell, expensive.
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Ok thank you I did begin with the polyester resin already.
Is there a simple way to plug these small screw holes that the precious owner (must not have been paying attention) put thru the hull. It’s too late for me to rip out the whole bottom to get to them. They look like small drywall screws: see attached.
And thanks for all the info.
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OH OH .. Not sure what would be best way to fix screw.
Maybe other have a way to do it.
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I missed it when I bought the boat years ago and now I am way beyond ripping out the inside...I have been working outside on it and didn’t get under for close inspection till this week...I have to see if I can plug it safely.
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What was the screw holding to the hull? Is the screw head exposed on the bottom? If there is no access to the inside, I would pull the screw out clean the hole with acetone, then fill the hole with peanut butter(resin and fumigated silica). Finish with a spot treat of gel coat.
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Sorry, I took a closer look and the screw is poking out of the hull. Shadows made it look somewhat like a stringer. Looks like a steel fastener(drywall) so it will rust. I'd use a Dremel cut off wheel to cut and grind the fastener below the surface of the existing gel coat, then clean with acetone. Finish with some spot gel coat application. Finish smooth with existing hull. I can't tell you how close I've come to doing this on my own boats.
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Could you use a pliers to back it off back into the hull and then just patch the hole up?
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I will verify and see if I can find the head of it in the boat but I believe it’s below the floor board (probably on a stringer that the previous owner had fixed) that I start putting resin and fiberglass on. I will cut it off and patch per the suggestion if I can’t get to it from above. We are so dry here and it hasn’t been in the water in a long time. Thats why it never rusted. Thx for fixes.
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I will verify and see if I can find the head of it in the boat but I believe it’s below the floor board (probably on a stringer that the previous owner had fixed) that I start putting resin and fiberglass on. I will cut it off and patch per the suggestion if I can’t get to it from above. We are so dry here and it hasn’t been in the water in a long time. Thats why it never rusted. Thx for fixes.
No need to find the head...just use a pliers from the outside and twist the screw into the boat hull and leave it
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Ok will try both solutions. I sanded down the plywood to bare wood on most of the floor board. Sanded it all around and there is some hardener/sealer that wound not come off easily. I didn’t want to gouge the plywood there. I sanded it and it has rough surface. I applied the resin sealer coats. It seems like the fiberglass and the resin coat is sticking to it. Has this ever been and issue of it delaminating? I filled in the 90 degree angles that weren’t done well before. I didn’t have any cracks or splits and the sheet was completely intact. See pic from before sealing.
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My resin and fiberglass floor is dry ready for the carpet overlay I am getting ready to lay down the marine carpet on the inside of the cv16 and am wondering are there definitive opinions on carpet adhesive vs carpet tape? I have seen more adhesive uses when searching the forum. Need to get it by saturday. I was going to get about a gallon (its says it only covers a 8x10 area) from amazon of: CMC Boat Carpet Glue
Brand: CMC
Designed for installing glue-down type boat carpet, this water based marine adhesive is what you'll need to glue down your new carpeting. This boat carpet glue is water based, non flammable,
low-odor and non-toxic. Trowel our glue down for best results, once carpet is laid down use a heavy roller to press the back of the carpet into the glue lines you've created with the trowel. Each
gallon covers an 8' x 10' area Sold in single gallon pales This glue needs to be troweled down 1/8th" trowel recommended[/color]
or
Boat Carpet Glue Gallon
Brand: BoatCarpetCentral
This Carpet Glue is sold in 1 Gallon Pails
Each 1 gallon pail covers an 8' X 10' area
Water based (Adheres to rubber backed carpeting perfectly and will not deteriorate backing over time like alcohol-based
glues)This carpet glue is very versatile and may be used on Marine Plywood, Particle Board, Concrete, Aluminum and
Fiberglass.This marine adhesive is what you'll need to safely secure your new carpeting and achieve the look of a
professional installation all by yourself.It seems to set up and hold marine carpets.
thanks for any additional information.
Cheers,
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I used carpet tape along chine's and edges so carpet stuck to couture of hull and floor, red lines in picture.
Seats cover and hold carpet down on about 50% of floor. The wood piece in front of splash well holds it down in stern.
I used cheap carpet and wanted to be able to replace easily.
I'm going to get my supply's tonight and install carpet tomorrow.
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I did mine in glue; I should have done tape.
The glue smell is worse than resin. And this carpet is not a 30 year solution either as it is not durable enough, so the tape would make for an easy change out when the time comes.
(https://i.postimg.cc/dQR1Nt6Z/018.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/XXJ4pWTn)
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I did glue on the CVX-16. If I was doing it again, I would use the double side tape.
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After cutting tape with scissor .. I had to use acetone to clean off scissors.
Carpet took a set and never had any problem with it moving.
Carpet almost came out in one piece when I removed it, just spots under seat bases ripped apart.
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Ok perfect I looked at maybe thr 3m product ?
3M Scotch Reinforced Outdoor Carpet Tape is weather resistant and reinforced for added durability. It's ideal for boats, recreation vehicles, patios, decks and garages. Use it for outdoor installation of carpets and artificial turfs on wood, concrete, ceramic tile and other tile floor surfaces.
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3M makes good stuff. Should work.
I used this stuff.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Roberts-Indoor-or-Outdoor-15-ft-Double-Sided-Carpet-Tape-Roll-50-605-12/204470902
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i am trying to get samples of the pleated marine vinyl in the shades/fields of emerald, spring and kelly as a color guide as they seem to match the original. i might be off on the shade need to look at all greens. I really need to get it selected and ordered. I have a few vinyl smooth samples already on order but am struggling with the pleated. i have checked most of the posts on Marine Grade Pleated Vinyl /plain vinyl / flooring. Right now these two are my only two possibilities but am searching:
1. This fabric warehouse seems to have roll & pleated in some colors
a. https://fabricwarehouse.com/discount-sunbrella-furniture-weight-fabric/?_bc_fsnf=1&Overall+Color+Family=GREEN+FAMILY&Indoor+Vs.+Outdoor=Marine+%26+Auto
2. Carolinaseaand quilt seams like they will do pleated.
a. https://carolinasealandquilt.com/
any new finds would be awesome. i hate to do all custom on the pleated for the apron surround and seats.
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As long as your doing all your vinyl, coming close is about all you can do.
Mine was pretty close, but blue is a easy color to find, lots of chooses.
Below is the amount I ordered ..
It was more then needed but got extra in case of mistakes or needing repair in future ..
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yes i am going to use your count for the final purchase. it really doesn't seem like that much extra. Glad to have that as a guide. I still don"t have a good sample but i have quite a few coming to choose from. Its the pleated that i am severely limited on for choices. Really need the vinyl within 2 weeks.
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Didn’t somebody post a couple years ago and couple of places that will do the heat pleading on vinyl that you supplied to them ?
Seems like it’s somewhere in the seat thread
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
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Custom vinyl pleating ...
Precision Engineering in Patterson, NJ: 973-906-0866
Carolina Seal and Quilt in SC ..
https://carolinasealandquilt.com/
Ed used Carolina seal & quilt, He lives close so no shipping, but charged $100 to do his CV16 seats & trim.
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The list i was using off one thread is great . Green seems to be the difficult issue. In the kelly green, spring green, or emerald green range or anything close to it. So far 8 out of 10 of them have no green or much darker shades. I am working with fabric wherehouse (they might have one in the right range). The other is carolina seal and quilt. They haven't gotten back to me. i have reached out to a few others to see if they have more than what they put on the websites.
thx
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Have you tried here ... Achim Schloeffel gets his vinyl here ...
SMS Auto Fabrics / 350 S. Redwood St. Canby, OR 97013 / 1.503.263.3535
https://smsautofabrics.com/?fbclid=IwAR3dO9VVOQECSd8yb4wn9k4tyCUCS6cbAzbdlPhddRXpPmO0UL9otaId2hU
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i did try SMS thank you. While i am waiting on the vinyl i have many small items to handle and you guys might have insight. I will keep looking for answers in the forum but if you got any quick replies to these let me know. Apologize ahead of time if they are not great questions. Sometimes i can't make out the details from the pics.
1. I believe the ignition and shift control was always burlwood w/ adhesive on the marine plywood correct? it looks like it from the old photographs. I have the keys and made copies when i had the motor tuned up and made sure it was fixable.
2. I was going to seal the gear support and plywood for the seats before adding the foam? i am assuming that is good?
3. The battery holder and seats where both ripped out when i got it but it looks like the battery stand from cgo posts is just plywood and sealed is this correct? Did they have angle brackets?
4. The stern flanking flotation foam you guys refer (and have taken out) to in other posts have vertical plywood screens. it looks like the inside faces directly across from each other had some grey industrial paint that i sanded down. I was just going to seal them. they didn't have any resin on them. Is this normal? the two sides facing the bow had carpet with snaps and sealer on it. Is this normal? they also had no resin on them. Maybe the snaps where for the transom skirt surround?
5. the 2 facing the bow each has a angle clip on them. Was this added by previous owner or do they have function? Where they somehow for the transom skirt surround?
6. the piano hinge seems to be missing on the glove box i am hoping that is it? is there better brand to use?
7. the fuel tank in front is there something i can do to make sure its not rusted? i saw some people just using remote tanks. I will try and flush it out.
8. gelcoat paint the boat, dashboard crack and windshield (one) crack are hopefully winter fixes for me.
thanks again,
From Subject Received Size Categories
FORSmiguel Boat Glastron 3:58
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Burl wood vinyl was used on throttle control board, side pocket trim & seat bases
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Yes .. piano hinge was used on glove box.
Look for one that's stainless steel
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I have a small battery tray of wood, glassed in under splashwell.
It was to small to accept the battery hold down, so had to add extension.
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I removed my flotation foam boxes and made side panels, that glass to floor, with a little space around edges to tuck carpet in. They are not attached to deck. On the battery side I enclosed and space for control and steering cable. the other side is open.
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The aluminum plate in your picture is for attaching the side pocket trim board.
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A guy on FB, drained his tank, added some nuts and bolts, some kerosene, put it in back of his truck and drove around for a week. Sloshing nuts and bolts around to clean rust. He never did say what he did with the kerosene when done. Should work unless your tank has rusted through. There are also places that recondition fuel tanks.
OR .. get a plastic fuel tank
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The foam on my seat backs was old and started to rip when I tried to remove it, so just left it and didn't seal seat backs.
The seat bottom foam was shot and replaced with 3 inches of high density & 2 inches of softer on top, then some kind of cotton batting.
I didn't seal seat bottoms, it's birch and said to last in wet environments ... They will out last me !
I did seal the seat bases, they come into contact with water .. so used a thinned down resin (95 % ploy resin / 5% styrene) and tabbed corners for extra strength.
The gray paint under your splash well is .. Beaver Gray
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Is the beaver gray just standard paint and not specialty? We use Dunn Edwards or Sherwin williams a lot out here. The specification sheet says just flat beaver gray.
Greg Your dashBoard looks new is that original or did u get aftermarket, I thought I read in the forums there was someone in Belgium making the emblems? Can I get the dashboard for a 1974?
I climbed under the deck but have to figure out the gauge on the far left.
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Pretty sure "Beaver Gray" was just paint and nothing special, other have used gel coat to cover transom and floor in stern.
My dash is original. Shawn made a mold from his and could make you one. Best to ask him if he could do it. Shipping might be pretty expensive .. There's this thread on repairing a busted up one.
http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=8088.0
http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=8341.0
All CV16 emblems & decals are available .. except the "CV16" emblem on passenger side dash.
Or are you referring to "Cap. plate" and "Light / horn / Acc." plate on lower dash ?
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Thanks this was really helpful.
Photos of glass floor and then new carpet attached
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Stearn resin and glass...
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Do you cut the carpet around the bow holes @base of each side of the fixed plywood to bow that supports removable carpeted bow kick/kneeboard? It seems to be for emergency release of water but openings would be blocked by removable bow kick/kneeboard. In gregg’s recent boat photos of the cv16 it doesn’t look like you cut around yours.
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Final carpeting. I got a little sloppy on port side stearn vertical plywood screening flotation foam. Otherwise I am ok with it for my first time. The tape was definitely the way to go. I still need to check my gas tank. Having issues loosening the cap. It feels like I am
Going to break it and have to find a better way. If tank needs coating I found local place to do it.
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Bad pictures .. but .. I cut carpet so about a inch of overlap on board behind kick board.
The board that go's over top of it didn't sit "very" tight to floor so any water that got back there could drain, but if you got water under deck by fuel tank, you would have other problems with your deck to hull seal.
I also had problems doing carpet under splash well, it looks better this time .. last time I did it was a hack job.
At least splash well curtain covers it .. LOL
Picture #3 is last time I did carpet, this time I went all the way back to transom with carpet.
I have problems re installing gas cap after re fueling. Cap is easy to cross thread. Takes two or three try's to get it right.
45 years of uses .. the threads are screwed up ..
Your boat looks great ! Keep up the good work !
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I am trying to get the gas cap open. I oiled it 3 weeks ago hoping with our dry weather it would seap in and get rid of any rust. I can’t seem to use pressure to open it from above. Then I thought I would loosen it from below (see pic) and take out the whole housing. The hose is snug and I think the only way to take it out woold be to cut them. Which would be unfortunate because they are in good condition. Maybe I am making this harder than I have to? I wanted to get the cap off and check the tank to see if I have to recoat the tank. Found someone local who does that but of course that means taking the tank out so don’t want to unless I have to. Any help would be good as I must not be thinking thru the problem.
Thx
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I would just replace cap / hose.
Betting if two stroke mix of fuel sat in tank for two years or more .. it needs to be cleaned.
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FWIW - A guy's been binge watching Vice Grip Garage on the facetubes and there's a demo of how to clean your tank similar to Hyperacme's description above. Here's a link : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EOi_lghsOCw and the cleaning demo begins around 12:30 minutes or so into video.
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I use a cotter pin extractor, inserted between the hose and the fitting and then work it around to get the hose loose, seeing as one tab is broke off Already might just as well replace it.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200826/088b55f886c083d804f3d7e075a06243.jpg)
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thanks everyone. I did buy the cotter pin extractor but ran out of time to try and remove hoses. My first quick attempt was not successful. Will probably remove the tank if possible per Gregg's suggestion.I watched the video and will probably try that if I cant get the tank dipped. Is that gas cap not original? I see some that may have had logo gas caps. Here is the battery base and full carpet installed in the stern. Gregg I used the carpet tape. Do you staple the vertical to the walls of hull? It looks like you may have on your photos.
thx
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Gas tank is a tight fit but it seems if i get everything unfasten it will come out. I couldn"t feel any brace holding it in on front leading edge in the bow. That post on the CV-19 removal of gas tank seems to have a wedge on the front bow.
The other pic shows the glassed in battery shelf, holddown and carpet. There is a gap in the back for access and if water gets back there. Don't know it that was right thing to do but seemed ok. The battery has plenty of support and (I added a stainless steel angle just in case to the vertical plywood under the splash well).
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I have started my full rebuild of the seats. I didn't have any templates and the originals were removed before I bought the boat. The seats blog have been crucial to figure out the sizes. Need to scribe the bases and have more pieces to assemble on seat and arm ply. I bought the burlwood from Rvinyl as some of the other links didn't have them available. I have the marine upholstery currently on the way. It shipped from two different locations. Install and foam is another problem to tackle. Am going to get one of my vendors maybe to do it. Am glad to finally have the seating going. Still have a long ways to go but doing this on a budget. No way I can paint it this year or do the dash.
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Maybe I should start my own thread? I don’t know the thread etiquette and maybe I shouldn’t be sharing/asking my questions on this thread? Let me know. The burlwood on the shifter backer has original metal plaques. A you tube video says I should drill them out. I suppose I can then rivet them back on. Is this how others have done it? Its logical which made me question myself. I was going to start it and decided to ask first. See bad pic below (its an older one from carpet install). Thx ahead of time.
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The carpet staples to the wood strips that run around hull.
I have one deck brace in front of fuel tank and one behind.
You can see it in first picture ..
There is also wood around deck for stapling vinyl to.
You can also see board ( On top of foam blocks) where deck braces glass to, under deck in second picture.
The Burl wood on my throttle board was in pretty good shape , so reused it.
Would guess there are small, kind of like screws holding plate on .. Kind of screw/nails ?
The side of seats that attach to deck are odd shaped and not easy to make a pattern of.
Ed did his best to make some .. and it came out nice. Think if your a inch or two off of original no one will know.
I put a small cut out on battery / transom side to drain water that could get trapped behind tray.
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I've seen quite a few CV16's but never looked at there gas fill's.
This is mine ..
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I went aftermarket on mine simply because I didn't want to require a tool to open it. Center button pops in and out, and turns by hand.
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thanks everyone. I am getting the seats finished up. All my vinyl arrived. I had to go a different route on the color but it will look sharp. Was busy working and fell behind. i was going to get the gas cap fixed if it was original. If not i will get a aftermarket one. I am going to attempt to remove the gas tank this upcoming week. See attached Pic below. I to have the plywood straddled across the flotation foam on the deck but i didnt feel the brace on the bow side of he gas tank. I really hope i can take it out without touching the deck. The only thing holding it down seem to be the metal plumbers tape straps. If this sounds off let me know. I Have some more questions but will focus on seating and the gas tank. thanks again for the input.
cheers and hopefully everyone had a great labor day. MF
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hi lots of progress i have my tempo steel gas tank off and being dipped and cleaned. I have to finish my seats but ran into some dimension questions as i never had a layout. I am finishing the outside wing pieces but need to know how far forward the seats sit. I am looking for clues to exact placement of the base and seats before i start outside arm rest/back plywood, the foam and upholstery. In photo #1 i really need the dimensions:
between the seats?
from base to front kneeboard ( i was trying to see how far it overlaps the shifter)?
distance from base to back deck surround see pic #2?
In Picture #3 i am pretty sure per greggs earlier photos the plywood goes right up against the back and that anchors to the deck. i was just double checking the dimension?
Picture #4 tells me maybe i dont have them far enough forward.
Lots of questions but thank you if you can help.
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photo 4
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I'll get measurement tonight ..
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thanks...i thought there would be more clues when i placed them in there but i wasnt leaving enough room in the back.
cheers,
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The seat base's need to be about seven ( 7 ) inches on inside and about three ( 3 ) inches on the outside.
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kick board to seat base = 24 inches
Seat base to seat base = 11 inches
Transom to seat base = 4 feet
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Seat base to side of hull = 12 inches
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*
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*
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This is perfect. Quick question on pic 3554 did you pad out with thin plywood (only @ the backrest )the hull armrest plywood that runs parallel with the side deck to the outside? It looks like the vinyl has room to slip back behind this upholstered wing on the outside. Again thanks this really helps define the placement.
cheers,
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My pleated vinyl had a fiber backing ...
John shows how side panels are done here ..
http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=7004.0
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How I did side vinyl ..
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Great info Greg!!
mrfCV16,
Been following. I like your carpet install.
Dan
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Super thanks Gregg these are really helpful. I am relaying out the seats based on these. Thank you for spending the time posting because the additional photos and explanation have been great.
Next round of questions while I finish the seats. I removed the gas tank and had it dipped and recoated. It was a tempo 18 ga with awesome graphics on the outside but i lost all that in the recoat. I also blew out the fuel line with a air compressor. I hope this will be ok and i don't have to replace the whole line. It seems to be clear and was getting plenty of flow. A couple of questions that go with pics below. Is that a fuel filter on the gas tank attaching to fuel line? See old tank pic with attachment. I was going to replace the 2 hoses, gaskets @ float, gasket @ fuel filler on deck and the weather stripping around the the tank for plumbing straps. thanks
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Photo1 existing tank
Photo 2 nozzle is it a filter needing replacement?
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Sorry having problem posting photos (dumbing them down).
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thanks dan i I am learning as i go along. this is the new treated tank ready to go.
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the really cool old logo on the tempo
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gas tank for the 1974 cv16
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Michael and Gregg i did find similar gas fuel fillers but you have to screw them in to the deck. More questions. #1 I have beat up and destroyed the original one trying to get it open. It was cool because it was the tempo filler. I was trying to find a similar one were its attached with a large nut from below but the only thing i found was an avaition one and i dont trust it. If anyone has a source for one attached from below let me know? See pic below. this is the avaition one:
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/Usher_flushCaps.php
cheers everyone
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2nd question. I am hoping to reuse the float but is that a bad idea? Since the tank was empty I didn't check to see if it was working. Should I just get another one? I don't think it would be that hard to replace it (if it doesn't work)? But if there is a proven one that works should i replace it now?
lots of questions today............thanks everyone love the forum.
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Mine has a shut off valve on fuel pickup pipe but no filter.
Fuel filters are on motor.
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The fuel vent hose loops up to highest point .. Attaches to bottom of fuel fill cap.
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Might be able to tell if it's good with a VOM.
Joe should know what to test for ...
John replaced his sending unit .. Can't remember part number .. will ask him for number and post here.
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Checking with an ohmmeter it should read approximately 240 ohms when all the way down or empty and zero when all the way up or full.
When I redid our Bal Harbor I used one of these.
https://www.wholesalemarine.com/moeller-reed-switch-fuel-sending-unit-79135.html
It’s not variable so the gas gauge changes in 1/8 of a tank increments but it seems a lot more reliable. I also intend on using one of these on our CV16
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And, here's a video from Vice Grip garage on how to test your fuel sender : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EOi_lghsOCw&t=894s (starts at the 11:00 mark or so).
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Thanks for the answers. I am guessing the 1974 doesn't have come with the shut off. Unless there is a safety issue I wasn't planning on adding it. that 90 degree nozzle must just be just a fuel nozzle for the change of direction. I will retest the float thanks for those ideas. Need the filler to complete the install. On the fuel filler based on the 1-1/2" inside diameter and 3" threaded shaft I found quite a lot of these fillers that match the pics you guys sent me.
https://www.google.com/search?q=boat+deck+fuel+filler&rlz=1C1ZCEB_enUS805US805&oq=boat+deck+fuel+filler&aqs=chrome..69i57j0j69i61l3.4079j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
I guess I will have to go with the ones with 3 - #10 screws on them.I will have make the holes in the deck. I was trying to avoid new openings. I know i have asked you guys for any deck mounted ones you may have come across. I haven't found any that are only fastened from below(except aircraft models) like my 1974 fuel filler with the threaded rod and nut. Its same pic from 2 weeks ago that shows no deck fasteners. If i dont find one by tonight i will just order the screwed in ones. I am guessing you guys have used a special bit to not crack the fiberglass when trying to drill thru the deck or hull?
thanks
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I have this(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200924/3aea3d6df004f05a63c8b11786adf841.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200924/b9983dea4f1350dcadb92d3393d71fd4.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200924/1ad15f386a9c2894d53907fe13b5c3f8.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200924/e9aaca019b29edaa5015795543273434.jpg)
Sorry for the late response...
It’s of of a cobalt
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Yes i was looking for something like that. Does that have a manufacture or did you get it online ?
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I salvaged it off of an old cobalt that I scrapped out. If you want it I can mail it to you
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Ahh I get it. I think so. I hate drilling the deck for more holes. Or dry heat makes everything so brittle. I can give you a shipping number and work it out with you. Let me measure the opening on the deck. I know the original filler flange/surround was around 3-1/4" diameter on the deck might be even smaller to accept this flange. It took a 1-1/2" inside diameter flexible fuel hose below deck to the tank. The shaft was about 3" long below the deck. The only difference I see in your pic is the cobalt one has the the threads on a enlarged ring outside the shaft (the original glastron fuel filler had the threads directly on the 3" shaft). As long as this fits thru the opening and locks up the housing I would think this is fine. I will measure it tonight.
thanks
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J,
They look very similar. If the pipe allows a 1-1/2" fuel diameter hose on it to make it a simple connection i think I can use it. i can always get a new cap for it if that cap goes. I have seen lots of replacement caps. Do you want to email me direct and I can send you my address?. I can post it here also. I have a fedex account and i think a ups also. Or we can do what ever is convenient for you. I dont want you to go to far out of your way to send it.
miguel@forsarchitecture.com
thanks again,
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200925/2f61d3ded02d6fed2fb6a0aec1b23491.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200925/ca6e48d42ad89613075492a3d3dfa413.jpg)
It does have the screw holes to put a chain on it, I think I took the chain for a different cap
I will send you an email
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There are a fair number of outlets for a gas cap leash, this is what I commonly used. I've also drilled and riveted a chain on at the bottom, the fuel hose slips over the area to prevent any leaks.
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Thanks I will just get a chain like that online. My original one had a ground wire connected to it that I could engineer to reattach.Joe see pic below it looks like my overall opening in the deck is 2” so should be fine with that flange.
Thanks again
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joe thanks again. Work got the better of me and haven"t been able to work on the boat since the end of september but have a little time coming up. I need the fuel sender so am going to try the same one you suggested in September.
https://www.wholesalemarine.com/moeller-reed-switch-fuel-sending-unit-79135.html
I am assuming yours worked out well?
thx
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i was also looking at these from Moeller on the fuel sending units
https://www.amazon.com/Moeller-Marine-Electric-Universal-Sending/dp/B000MTCRA0/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=tempo%2Bfuel%2Btank%2Bparts&qid=1600473633&sr=8-8&th=1&psc=1
https://www.google.com/search?q=sw+Marine+Products%2C+Fuel+Tank+Sending+Units%2C&rlz=1C1ZCEB_enUS805US805&oq=sw+Marine+Products%2C+Fuel+Tank+Sending+Units%2C&aqs=chrome..69i57.2975j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
Has anyone tried the Moeller? I was looking at these because the one joe sent me isn't variable. Not that I need to be that picky but the Moellers look just like the one i pulled off the existing tank on the cv16.
thanks
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A fuel sender that's not variable? Not sure how that works. The moeller unit seems like it would work, standard 33-240 ohms. The wire from the fill point to the tank is grounding for safety. Most new marine fuel filler hose has a wire built in. Drains static charge off.
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I replaced the original Steel Tempo tank in my CV16SS with a poly one from Moeller about 13 years ago. It has that exact same sending unit in it and it works great.
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A fuel sender that's not variable? Not sure how that works. The moeller unit seems like it would work, standard 33-240 ohms. The wire from the fill point to the tank is grounding for safety. Most new marine fuel filler hose has a wire built in. Drains static charge off.
I put one in the Balharbour, it’s a sealed unit with eight reed switches in it and a network of resistors.
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