Author Topic: Maggie's minivan (Read 20196 times)

Hyperacme · « **Reply #80 on:** May 10, 2020, 02:11:12 PM »

Good progress Tim .. Sorry to hear about your knee .. Hope every thing go's well and you up and about soon.

still_fishin · « **Reply #81 on:** May 11, 2020, 12:49:48 AM »

I'm probably going to kick myself for this but i wanted the rear seat and sun pads in today. I already know they the sun pads are coming out for the engine install but maybe I'll get lucky and the seat can stay.

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Plugcheck · « **Reply #82 on:** May 11, 2020, 09:42:27 AM »

Nice work Tim. Looks like you'll be ready for the water fairly soon.

Tonka Jim · « **Reply #83 on:** May 11, 2020, 12:27:53 PM »

Quote from: still_fishin on May 10, 2020, 11:36:44 AM

I have knee surgery on Friday so I'm going to try to get the boat on the trailer before that. At least that way if i find someone to build a trailering cover for it while I'm out i can get it to them.

If you find a place to have your cover made, I can tow it anywhere for you.
I had mine done in Mound, MN - Permatop Canvas Co. - Their price was comparable to every one else i called.
I will be in Red Wing tomorrow, let me know if you need help with anything.

still_fishin · « **Reply #84 on:** May 11, 2020, 10:33:28 PM »

Ha. Sorry Jim. I got the kids out the door and went straight to work on the boat.

I spent the better part of three hours trying to get the boat on the trailer. Road block after road block slowed what should have been about an hour job. First it was the casters on the cradle sinking into the asphalt drive way. That stopped me from getting the boat all the way out of the garage to then turn it 180 degrees. About three feet were left inside. Remember, the boat is nose first in the garage so sliding it onto the trailer off the cradle wasn't an option. Ok, I'll just take the trailer nose first into the garage a bit, slide it under the boat and set it down. Nope..... the door on this garage is 8' wide before the trim. The boat fits but not the trailer so maneuvering the trailer under wasn't going to be as simple as parallel parking. I had an engine hoist on the front on the boat. That was fine as i was able to get the clearance to get the trailer under it. But again, there wasn't enough room with the hoist to get in far enough to get clearance for the fenders. At the back of the boat i had a pretty big car jack with some cribbing and some carpet to help with scratching the hull. The problem with the Jack was i wasn't comfortable going as high as i needed to with multiple layers of cribbing on top of a 6" Jack pad to clear the fenders. It became less and less stable the higher it got. I only needed a few inches. Ok, let the air out if the tires, some strapping around a deck post, a come along and i was able to drag the trailer under the boat. Ok, the somewhat sketchy parts are done and the boat is on the trailer. Now i have a boat on a trailer at the bottom of my 90' driveway that has a slight slop towards the garage with no way to hook up to a vehicle..... yay.....I ended up pushing the trailer/ boat up the driveway to the end if the porch, about 25' short of the sidewalk. At that point i needed to turn the boat around to be able to hook up to it. The driveway is only about 12 feet wide there. I tried a few different things to move the trailer on the grass. Two words..... tandems suck in this circumstance. I eventually pulled the rear set of wheels and that made a significant difference. The boat is on the trailer, all the wheels are installed and inflated and the trailer is facing the right direction. Oh and for about 15 minutes i thought that i lost the center post for the windshield...... kind of important.....i had a short discussion with Maggie about how long ago i took that thing off and how i would have put it in a good easy to find logical spot. Because those easy to find spots don't move in two years. I ended up finding it out with some random parts no where near where i had the windshield. Well the was also installed. The punch list for things to do is finally in my favor.

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thedeuceman · « **Reply #85 on:** May 11, 2020, 10:39:32 PM »

Wow... what a day.
I can relate to some of the “ how the heck am I gonna do this”

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still_fishin · « **Reply #86 on:** May 12, 2020, 09:09:06 AM »

The original layout for the switches wasn't going to work with what i had in mind. I wanted to loose the fuse holders and use breakers as inevitably your 5 amp run will end up with whatever fuse you have left, more than likely that spare 20 amp you had for the ignition. I used spdt switches for everything and due to their slim design i could get 7 across without widening the opening. I will be needing a diode for the navigation lights in order to use an anchor function. Due to the breakers being close to the same size as the switches i did have to make the hole a little taller. From what i remember it was only about 1/4". Something that didn't make sense to me was that the guage cluster and the ignition switch were mounted on stainless plate with a sheet of smoked plexi over the ss. The original stitches did not have the plexi. That bothered me so since everything else was getting replaced with new i made a piece if plexi for the stitches, sent it out to a buddies buddy to have it engraved and painted the engraving this morning.

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thedeuceman · « **Reply #87 on:** May 12, 2020, 12:48:21 PM »

That turned out really nice

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Jason · « **Reply #88 on:** May 12, 2020, 08:01:16 PM »

Quote from: still_fishin on May 11, 2020, 10:33:28 PM

Ha. Sorry Jim. I got the kids out the door and went straight to work on there boat.

I spent the better part of three hours trying to get the boat on the trailer. Road block after road block slowed what should have been about an hour job. First it was the casters on the cradle sinking into the asphalt drive way. That stopped me from getting the boat all the way out of the garage to then turn it 180 degrees. About three feet were left inside. Remember, the boat is nose first in the garage so sliding it onto the trailer off the cradle wasn't an option. Ok, I'll just take the trailer nose first into the garage a bit, slide it under the boat and set it down. Nope..... the door on this garage is 8' wide before the trim. The boat fits but not the trailer so maneuvering the trailer under wasn't going to be as simple as parallel parking. I had an engine hoist on the front on the boat. That was fine as i was able to get the clearance to get the trailer under it. But again, there wasn't enough room with the hoist to get in far enough to get clearance for the fenders. At the back of the boat i had a pretty big car jack with some cribbing and some carpet to help with scratching the hull. The problem with the Jack was i wasn't comfortable going as high as i needed to with multiple layers of cribbing on top of a 6" Jack pad to clear the fenders. It became less and less stable the higher it got. I only needed a few inches. Ok, let the air out if the tires, some strapping around a deck post, a come along and i was able to drag the trailer under the boat. Ok, the somewhat sketchy parts are done and the boat is on the trailer. Now i have a boat on a trailer at the bottom of my 90' driveway that has a slight slop towards the garage with no way to hook up to a vehicle..... yay.....I ended up pushing the trailer/ boat up the driveway to the end if the porch, about 25' short of the sidewalk. At that point i needed to turn the boat around to be able to hook up to it. The driveway is only about 12 feet wide there. I tried a few different things to move the trailer on the grass. Two words..... tandems suck in this circumstance. I eventually pulled the rear set of wheels and that made a significant difference. The boat is on the trailer, all the wheels are installed and inflated and the trailer is facing the right direction. Oh and for about 15 minutes i thought that i lost the center post for the windshield...... kind of important.....i had a short discussion with Maggie about how long ago i took that thing off and how i would have put it in a good easy to find logical spot. Because those easy to find spots don't move in two years. I ended up finding it out with some random parts no where near where i had the windshield. Well the was also installed. The punch list for things to do is finally in my favor.

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No wonder you need a knee.

Plugcheck · « **Reply #89 on:** May 12, 2020, 10:39:46 PM »

Quite a story, and you wrote it well. I could see it all unfolding. Real question is how you managed all that with a bad knee. Really outstanding progress.

still_fishin · « **Reply #90 on:** May 13, 2020, 08:29:47 PM »

I forgot to post a few pictures of the finished dash yesterday. I'm happy with it, till it cracks....
Today I started cleaning two years of boat rebuilding dust off the engine. I basically had a white engine. I'm planning to switch out the carb for a quadrajet i have assuming the performer intake is spread bore. I have more experience with a quadrajet plus who doesn't love the quadrajet secondary dooooowooooo!! I also have a new engine wire harness to clean up the abomination currently on the engine. I'm still undecided what I'll be doing for the ignition. The original thunderbolt setup had issues. Whether it was the pickup or the main box something caused it to run really weak and at times die and not restart. That actually was the case when i winterized it. It wouldn't start, i got pissed as the motor wasn't even hot so i ripped the Mallory setup off the old Intimidator motor, installed it, a little timing adjustments and it started right up. It seemed far more snappy while working the throttle blades. I'm fine with the Mallory but spare modules are hard to find. I'd also be fine with a thunderbolt setup but i can't have the dying and no start issues on the river. I guess i still have a sour taste in my mouth from the close call we had in the Covil park no wake zone.

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RedOctober89 · « **Reply #91 on:** May 15, 2020, 09:31:32 AM »

haha sounds like quite the adventure getting it back on the trailer!!
that dash looks great! Going to be on the water in no time!

Tonka Jim · « **Reply #92 on:** May 16, 2020, 10:13:35 AM »

Dash and everything else looks wonderful!

still_fishin · « **Reply #93 on:** May 16, 2020, 07:29:34 PM »

I made a comment in an earlier post about modules for the Mallory ignition being hard to find. Well Google had straightened me out. I will be sticking with the Mallory.

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Jason · « **Reply #94 on:** May 16, 2020, 08:52:10 PM »

Dash looks great. I really like the gauge looking receiver.

still_fishin · « **Reply #95 on:** May 25, 2020, 01:13:19 PM »

I did some maintenance on the seat swivel sliders the other day and noticed more questionable at best workmanship. A partially secured base on the drivers side would have been the cause for the drivers side reclining more then the passengers. Which probably cause all the damage to that base. Lots of broken parts. I picked up a few used sliders over in Prior Lake Sunday from a guy who had a few glastrons. One GT150 and a I can't remember what it is with the sloping center consol. I'm sure one could get the consol boat but i know he doesn't have papers for it. I mentioned the group and the annual meet and he didn't seem to know about it. He also mentioned Red Wing is pretty far away............. ok, don't tell Missouri, Nebraska, Illinois, Colorado, most of Europe, Iowa.... to name a few. Anyways, here is the boat.

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hemi RT · « **Reply #96 on:** May 25, 2020, 01:48:55 PM »

That is a Glastron Jetflite. Rather rare with the full console in it.

Hyperacme · « **Reply #97 on:** May 25, 2020, 02:42:04 PM »

By the stripes and swoosh .. Looks like a 1966 Glastron Jetflite V143 Super Sport.

still_fishin · « **Reply #98 on:** May 28, 2020, 06:49:35 PM »

I was messing with the engine the other day thinking i should run it up to temp to verify no oil leakd before installing it and making a mess if the bilge. Well I only ran it for about 30 seconds and can confirm one for sure. There area between the oil pan and the timing cover. I was hoping for a miracle and to bugger more rtv on the seal but after looking at it i think someone already pulled that move. The u channel at the bottom of the timing cover had been cut back to allow that cover to be installed while the oil pan is torqued down. From my Google research i have found it doesn't usually fix the problem. It didn't. More crap workmanship. I also noticed that seal between the timing cover and the oil pan was too thin so to make up the space they used a bead of some type of rtv material. There were areas that you could tell didn't have a squish on that seal and only deformed the bead of rtv. I know why they used that seal, the correct one would not fit into place without dropping the pan. I had a spare sbc gasket set in the garage so the water pump and timing cover gaskets are covered. As for the oil pan gasket i will only use the one piece gaskets. Felpro makes a rubber coated steel gasket that has these click studs that allow for ridiculously easy installation. Check them out. The gasket is installed clean, obviously, and dry..... no rtv. At least that is what the directions say. I'll try to get the oil pan installed tonight, then all the accessories can go back on and possibly run it up again tomorrow. I also rigged up an oil pressure and water temp guage with pigtails that plug into the engine harness along with the wires rigged for the coil and the start relay.

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still_fishin · « **Reply #99 on:** May 28, 2020, 07:10:24 PM »

Late last week and early this week i worked on the drive. I had hopes for a decent outcome as there are so many specialty tools required to service them. Well it was obvious none had been into this drive in a very long time. The norm seems to be that most all need a short yoke for the upper...... this one did not deviate from that path. I also remember when i pulled the drive just after we bought the boat that one on the c clips for the u joint bearings was laying on top of the area that protrudes into the bell housing. That bearing was making dust out if metal. Both bearings were shot. Otherwise the upper looked good internally.
As for the lower i ended up drilling out the bearing carrier retainer nut, then with way more help from a 1/2" impact then ever before the carrier was out. I was gutting this drive to reseal the whole thing and to have a new skeg welded on. Under first examination I thought the parts were in good condition. They are.... sort of. I noticed what I thought was an aluminum shaving from the carrier nut I drilled out earlier on the pinion gear. Nope, that there is something that needs replacement. It is the only flaw in the gear. I ordered a whole gear set to deal with that problem. That also means some of the seals i installed thinking this was a quick reseal need to come out so i can go through the shiming process and get real rolling torque numbers not effected buy a seal dragging. It is pretty unlikely I'll get the seals out without damaging them. That's ok, i ordered a few extra seal kits for the seven other drives in my basement needing attention.

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