Am I right...?

[Hot Carl]

Soooo I finally rigged up my buddy's portable fuel tank and all of my sputtering/stalling issues are gone! I should've done this...I don't know...in May?! I've never been happier and am relieved that the original tank was the root of the problem(s). However, now I've got an issue with the portable tank. I can cruise all day around 2k RPMS, but once I get above 3k RPM's the primer bulb on the new tanks fuel line will compress and eventually cut off the fuel. I checked the vent - ran the boat with the cap off and it made no difference - so I'm assuming the pickup in this old portable tank is defective? I took it out and it passed the visual inspection - pickup tube is clear, check-valve moves. Could it just be defective? Also, this tank has always been used with a much smaller outboard engine...could the fuel needs of my 350 simply be too much for this setup? I'm assuming if I get rid of the bulb then the fuel line itself will eventually compress...correct?

Any help, as always, would be appreciated! I figure I'll just have to try a different tank for the next month...

[Jason]

Try bypassing the primer bulb. You shouldn't need it with that 350. In my derby cars I always use a boat tank and fuel line straight to the engine and never have a problem even with a 460.

[Hot Carl]

Try bypassing the primer bulb. You shouldn't need it with that 350.

That's what I was thinking - the rubber on the bulb is pretty thin and a primer bulb is unneccesary for my set-up anyway. I'll junk the bulb and give my friend a stern talking to for giving me such a sub-par product 

Thanks again for the advice man...

[Jerry]

The fuel line comes in 5/16 and 3/8 Make sure you use the 3/8 hose.

[Hotwired]

I assume you are using a standard outboard tank.  You may want to replace the stock hose with a length of standard automotive style gas line.  That 350 is going to pull fuel a lot harder than most outboards!  Also that way when you return the tank some day you can return it with the original line and fittings.