Author Topic: V-195 Restoration Thread  (Read 25470 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline ChfBrianB

  • Brian Bergstrom
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 6439
    • CGOAMN Homepage
V-195 Restoration Thread
« on: September 02, 2011, 12:17:21 PM »
Well...  It has begun.

I took the boat out on the water last week to give it it's first trial run.  It ran like crazy until i noticed some white smoke coming from under the engine cover.  Needless to say, it had pushed one of the loose frost plugs out (that we had tried to get back in without pulling the engine) and got a little hot at the risers.  I shut it down and got it diagnosed fairly quickly.  I'm thankful that the bilge pump was working because a missing frost plug can pump a lot of water into a boat in just a few minutes.

So, we put the plug back in with my finger and idled back to the ramp.  Ugh...

So, that was my trial run with the boat, but I'm happy with the motor, so here we go on the restoration...

I've taken the interior out and the carpet.  The floor is shot, so I've removed one of the sections of flooring.  I also ordered The classic book "Runabout Restoration" by Jim Anderson (it's listed on the national cgoa site).

The largest challenge that I'm facing now is that the book says to re-do the floor and stringers with the top-deck still attached.  My problem is that the open bow layout is molded from the top deck, so I cant get to the floor in the front of the boat.  Also, the rear seats next to the engine cover are part of the top deck, so I don't know how to get under those to do the floor back to the transom without taking those out...

Any ideas?

I'll keep the pictures coming as we progress...
Brian
1975 V-173 (The Gravy Boat)
1976 CV-16SS (Greener Grass)
1977 CVX-20 Deluxe (Silver Fox)
1976 V-195
1986 CV-23
1977 T-166XL Sportster (Plan B)
1977 CVX-16

Offline n0ukf

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 123
Re: V-195 Restoration Thread
« Reply #1 on: September 02, 2011, 01:21:02 PM »
My '64 Skiflite has the same problem for working on the floor, the seats are molded in on the top.
Elliott
'64 Skiflite 142, '64 Evinrude Lark VI 40hp Selectric.
('59-'62) Wizard Bolero Imperial 15, '67 Evinrude Lark IX 40hp Selectric.

Offline TV27

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 179
Re: V-195 Restoration Thread
« Reply #2 on: September 02, 2011, 03:10:03 PM »
The best way to handle this is to do the floor in two sections, once the back half is done you can separate the hull and deck. If you separate it first and remove the floor in one piece the hull loses its shape and the deck will not fit properly when you try to re-assemble them. While there are several ways to maintain the hull shape  the easiest solution is the two-part replacement. I can tell you from experience it is the best way to keep the hull where it should be and I can show you in pictures what happens if you don't...wait forget I said that those pictures don't exist...As a matter of fact they never did...yea..yea they never did...
1991  Sierra 175 "Toni's Toy"
1973 CV19ss "Taking Names"
1989 Rinker Captiva "Water we Doin"
1973 Trojan F-36 "Miss Toni"
1982 CV27 "Sea Yah"
1973 CV16ss "Blue ByYou"
1980 GT-150 "Beer Run"

Offline n0ukf

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 123
Re: V-195 Restoration Thread
« Reply #3 on: September 02, 2011, 05:24:39 PM »
I agree with doing it in sections, but I still have to remove the top because my seats straddle two of the (above-floor) stringers. At least, regardless of their condition, I can use the fiberglass stringer shells to pattern their shape. And while I'm at it, I'll make the drain holes through them larger and glassed (or at least resined/epoxied) inside. I'm sure it'll help also that this is a smaller boat.
Elliott
'64 Skiflite 142, '64 Evinrude Lark VI 40hp Selectric.
('59-'62) Wizard Bolero Imperial 15, '67 Evinrude Lark IX 40hp Selectric.

Offline Hyperacme

  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 13463
Re: V-195 Restoration Thread
« Reply #4 on: September 02, 2011, 05:49:05 PM »
GREAT to see ya diggin' right in !
What is it with you and frost plugs ?
... LOL
I would ask about plywood options, If I remember right "Runabout Restoration" got it wrong ...
If you need help ... Just post.

Offline Rosscoe

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 4444
Re: V-195 Restoration Thread
« Reply #5 on: September 02, 2011, 07:01:30 PM »
I have that book too.
So the floor in the open bow is actually fiberglass and part of the upper half? Does that rest on a plywood floor underneath? Just thinking maybe you dont have to go all the way forward, but maybe that would be a "short cut"  ???
In the back, I am sure you could slide a section under the jump seats, then move forward with the next section. You'd just end up with a seem or two which shouldnt be a big deal. Seems like the job gets way more difficult if you split it in half but I suppose its the right way. I wonder then if you should do the transom since its apart. :o
Ross
61 Surflite 1964 90HP Johnson project
67 V163 Bayflite Super Sport  1989 100HP Merc
67 V164 Bayflite 120HP
67 V174 Crestflite Rat Rod
71 V175 Crestflite 350ci -Jet
73 GT 160
84 CVX 17  83 115 Merc
88 CVX-23 350 Mag

Offline Jason

  • Global Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 5564
  • 1974 CV16SS, 1986 CV23
Re: V-195 Restoration Thread
« Reply #6 on: September 02, 2011, 08:23:48 PM »
I agree with Ross. Maybe you don't need to replace the floor in front. Is it soft?

Nice to see you digging into it!
Jason S.
1974 Glastron Carlson CV16SS 140 I/O
1986 Glastron Carlson CV23 260 I/O

Offline OleRed

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1688
    • Oklahoma Boating Group
Re: V-195 Restoration Thread
« Reply #7 on: September 03, 2011, 09:34:16 AM »
Thats right Brian,  you  may not have to replace the wood under the cap up front, easy enough to check that out, when you make the cut across the floor, leavung a couple inches from the step, you can check out the forward wood, when you cut out the floor, leave a couple inches "safe zone" on the side cut also.  By leaving a couple inches away from the step, and the wood up front ain't wet, then you have something to "scab" onto, to relpace the rest of the floor, and like it's been said already, it's a good idea to put the floor in two sections, I do three.
1980 23ft Scimitar

Offline Rich_V174SS

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 2074
  • 1967 V174 Crestflite SuperSport Modified
Re: V-195 Restoration Thread
« Reply #8 on: September 03, 2011, 10:03:17 AM »
Take a look through my V174 rebuild thread to see how I did the floor and stringers. I went up to the step and left the rest alone that was under the front deck:

http://www.classicglastron.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=75&t=147
1967 V174 Crestflite SuperSport Modified
1987 Mercruiser 190 3.7LX/Alpha One

1970 V176 Swinger
1983 Mercury 115

Offline CVX Fever

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 2000
Re: V-195 Restoration Thread
« Reply #9 on: September 03, 2011, 10:04:58 AM »
I wouldn't worry about the floor up front either. In both my v-hull open bows the floor didn't go to the front of the boat. I suspect that's because it's the strongest part of the hull and doesn't need to be reinforced with wood.
1979 CVX18 "Back in Black"....someday!
1985 CVX18 " Only thing better than 2 CVX18's is 2 girlfriends!

Offline ChfBrianB

  • Brian Bergstrom
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 6439
    • CGOAMN Homepage
Re: V-195 Restoration Thread
« Reply #10 on: October 18, 2011, 07:13:59 PM »
Here are the latest pictures..  This is about a month worth of putzing in my free time.  I just ordered the tank.  I got a 35 gallon Moeller sub floor tank for $235 including shipping on Ebay.  I'm pretty pleased as the  25 gallon tank at Boaters Outlet was $285.

I also got the aluminum factory glastron trailer yesterday too...  Lots of different stuff to putz on.

I gotta give credit to Carl Thomas from Lancer service for the most innovative engine hoisti've ever seen!  Woo Hoo!

As a side note, you'll notice that I did exactly what Red suggested and cut the rear seats out o the  boat.  It's going to work REALLY well!  They are now going to be bolt in / out.  It's going to be really nice to access the engine compartment.





























































« Last Edit: October 18, 2011, 07:22:06 PM by Administrator »
Brian
1975 V-173 (The Gravy Boat)
1976 CV-16SS (Greener Grass)
1977 CVX-20 Deluxe (Silver Fox)
1976 V-195
1986 CV-23
1977 T-166XL Sportster (Plan B)
1977 CVX-16

Offline ChfBrianB

  • Brian Bergstrom
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 6439
    • CGOAMN Homepage
Re: V-195 Restoration Thread
« Reply #11 on: October 18, 2011, 07:25:12 PM »
I agree with Ross. Maybe you don't need to replace the floor in front. Is it soft?

Nice to see you digging into it!

I don't know about the floor up front, but the centerline stringer is soft all the way up to the pass thru section.  I'm going to do some custom work to get the new tank in place, so I'll see more then...
Brian
1975 V-173 (The Gravy Boat)
1976 CV-16SS (Greener Grass)
1977 CVX-20 Deluxe (Silver Fox)
1976 V-195
1986 CV-23
1977 T-166XL Sportster (Plan B)
1977 CVX-16

Offline Hyperacme

  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 13463
Re: V-195 Restoration Thread
« Reply #12 on: October 18, 2011, 07:34:39 PM »
WoW !
One heck of an update Brian !
If ya need any help let us know ...

Offline Rosscoe

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 4444
Re: V-195 Restoration Thread
« Reply #13 on: October 18, 2011, 08:20:45 PM »
Digging in is right!  That is a great engine hoist for sure.
I am looking at the exhaust plumbing and it appears one side is plumbed different then the other. Interesting.

What are those strange objects? Critters? Jimmy Dean sausage patties?  :D
Ross
61 Surflite 1964 90HP Johnson project
67 V163 Bayflite Super Sport  1989 100HP Merc
67 V164 Bayflite 120HP
67 V174 Crestflite Rat Rod
71 V175 Crestflite 350ci -Jet
73 GT 160
84 CVX 17  83 115 Merc
88 CVX-23 350 Mag

Offline Jason

  • Global Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 5564
  • 1974 CV16SS, 1986 CV23
Re: V-195 Restoration Thread
« Reply #14 on: October 19, 2011, 09:15:44 AM »
That is the most expensive engine hoist I have ever seen! Nice work Brian. Glad to see Carl is helping out. If you need more help I am sure a floor install party could be arranged!
Jason S.
1974 Glastron Carlson CV16SS 140 I/O
1986 Glastron Carlson CV23 260 I/O

Offline ChfBrianB

  • Brian Bergstrom
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 6439
    • CGOAMN Homepage
Re: V-195 Restoration Thread
« Reply #15 on: October 19, 2011, 09:28:43 AM »
Digging in is right!  That is a great engine hoist for sure.
I am looking at the exhaust plumbing and it appears one side is plumbed different then the other. Interesting.

What are those strange objects? Critters? Jimmy Dean sausage patties?  :D

The exhause is custom on this boat...  They are the same on each side, it's just that the custom stainless pipe that he made to go to the thru hull fitting came off on one side as we were pulling it out.  So, we took one fitting out with the motor, and the other is still in the boat.

The strange objects are walnut shells.  It appears that a happy little critter was making a home in the floor some years ago.  Mike at white bear boat works told me that he recently redid a floor in a boat and got a 35 gallon trash can full of walnut shells out of the subfloor...  :)
Brian
1975 V-173 (The Gravy Boat)
1976 CV-16SS (Greener Grass)
1977 CVX-20 Deluxe (Silver Fox)
1976 V-195
1986 CV-23
1977 T-166XL Sportster (Plan B)
1977 CVX-16

Offline ChfBrianB

  • Brian Bergstrom
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 6439
    • CGOAMN Homepage
Re: V-195 Restoration Thread
« Reply #16 on: October 19, 2011, 09:55:07 AM »
So...  what is the current word on sub floor materials?  I know that everyone has different opinions on what types of wood to use.  "Runabout Restorations" talks about not using the high dollar wood in the floor and stringers stating that it's not needed.  Someone over on the CGOA site made a comment that they got it wrong.  I think that the book says to use AC Plywood with 2 coats of sealant.  The author says that marine plywood is not needed, and says that pressure treated pine or fur for the stringers is acceptable.

I know that marine plywood is running near $75 per sheet, and there is even a 1/2" pressed fiberglass sheet (4'x8') that runs $150 per sheet.

I'm interested in the views of those of you who have done it in the past.
Brian
1975 V-173 (The Gravy Boat)
1976 CV-16SS (Greener Grass)
1977 CVX-20 Deluxe (Silver Fox)
1976 V-195
1986 CV-23
1977 T-166XL Sportster (Plan B)
1977 CVX-16

Offline Jerry

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 2902
Re: V-195 Restoration Thread
« Reply #17 on: October 19, 2011, 10:56:10 AM »
NEVER use PT wood anywhere. NEVER use Epoxy in a fiberglass boat. I use 1/2" standard exterior grade plywood everywhere (including the stringers.) Anything else is just a total waste of money. Cut the plywood to fit and laminate the stringer pieces so there isn't joints in the same place. Use Poly resin on both pieces and screw together to get a tight fit. You can use 2, 3, or 4, depending on how wide you want the stringers. remember the strength is in the fiberglass, not the stringers so much. after you know it will fit give them a couple coats of 50-50 resin and acetone with 2% MEKP for the total amount of resin and acetone. I "bed" the stringers with Bondo, but you can glue if you want to.  Use a small amount of hardener in the bondo so it doesn't kick before you have the stringers in place. I use bi-axle cloth with mat to cover them (and the floor) mat side down and staple the cloth to the stringers, then brush on the resin until it's totally wet. Red used Roving with mat on the GT 160 and I like it. It's stronger than bi-axle and bends on outside corners better. Express Composites has them both. Do the same thing on the floor, and cover with 1 layer of either bi-axle or roving with mat. You can fill any floor voids with bondo and grind down before covering.

I have read "Runabout Renovation, and there are many things that are wrong with it. The biggest is NOBODY in Minnesota has ever heard of Jim Anderson, so I don't think he did many boats here. You know how to find me if you have questions.

'72 Glastron GT160 Sport - Okie-Dokie
'63 Winner - Grandpa's Fisn-Bote
'63 Glasspar SeaFair Sunliner - Mischief Maker

Offline dorelse

  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 5987
Re: V-195 Restoration Thread
« Reply #18 on: October 19, 2011, 11:50:37 AM »
I'm with Jerry on the exterior grade plywood.  I'm no expert...but...that's what I used.  Sealed it up on both sides, I'm confident it'll out last me...and the whole floor cost less than 1 sheet of marine plywood.

Now that you'll (very shortly) have a new baby in the house, you're going to have to worry about things like chemicals and protecting their little perfect pink lungs, etc.  

Poly Resin stinks to high heaven...and I'm sure is nasty stuff to especially sensitive newborns.  Your garage is Detached right?  (So you'll be ok.)  Plus fiberglass dust, etc, etc...

If I had had a newborn...I wouldn't have been able to restore Goldie (attached garage).  But I think I was more protective of the kids then my wife was at times.

Good luck Brian on both fronts!
« Last Edit: October 19, 2011, 11:52:55 AM by dorelse »
1990 Sierra 1700

Offline ChfBrianB

  • Brian Bergstrom
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 6439
    • CGOAMN Homepage
Re: V-195 Restoration Thread
« Reply #19 on: October 19, 2011, 12:26:55 PM »
UPDATE:

Some "person" on e-bay just informed me that he accidentially forgot to remove his posting for the gas tank I bought after he sold it to someone else.  Of course he informed me of this AFTER I had sent my paypal payment of $234 to his account.  So...  now I have to chase all over to try to get my money back.  In the mean time, I have no tank on the way.


GRRRRRR....
Brian
1975 V-173 (The Gravy Boat)
1976 CV-16SS (Greener Grass)
1977 CVX-20 Deluxe (Silver Fox)
1976 V-195
1986 CV-23
1977 T-166XL Sportster (Plan B)
1977 CVX-16