Author Topic: 460 Question - Head Scratcher  (Read 8295 times)

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Offline Scott_E

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460 Question - Head Scratcher
« on: June 05, 2012, 12:18:25 AM »
I have a head scratcher to run by the forum.  As many of you may remember, I had an  issue last summer where I had a couple frost plugs on my 77 CVX20 Jet (with 460 ford) that were rusted out and leaking water rapidly into the bilge.  Some of the local club members were gracious enough to help out with getting the motor pulled and new frost plugs put in, last November.  In the process, we also put in new spark plugs, new valve cover gaskets, had the exhaust off and cleaned all the sand and muck out of the water jackets in the motor, changed the oil & filter,  and installed a remote oil change kit.  Didn’t change out the plug wires, cap, rotor, or points – just put in the new plugs.   

A couple of other things to add – the floor was replaced over the winter and that was a dusty and dirty process that the motor was exposed to, since the engine cover was off.  A new in-line fuel filter was put in place, as well as an in-line fuel shutoff value (neither of these were in place before).  Also put in a new audio system, and new carpet.  I don’t want to leave out any details, as more info is hopefully better in trying to figure this out.  Boat had not been out on the water since last August, and was put away with a full tank of gas from August which was given some Stabil last October or November, at winterization time.

Went out for the first time this year a couple weekends ago, with Jim Barrett on Lake Mtka.  The boat idled pretty well, but I could detect a little bit of a Miss in it.  The first big thing I noticed was that the boat was slow to plane, and I could only get about 40 mph (not the normal 60).  I could only get about 4000 rpms also, not the usual 4800 – 4900.  Later in the day I was also starting to get an odd 'knock' type sound when trying to get up on plane.  Sounded to me like something hitting the inside of a valve cover???  That happened about 12 – 15 times probably - just a single knock at a time, over the final couple hours of our outing.  Toward the end, I did not want to risk any damage and I just idled back to the boat ramp.  The boat was fine at idle, it just didn’t like being under load later in the day..

This past Friday, I was doing some diagnostics and noticed that the 3 & 4 cylinder were reversed in the firing order (#3 wire was going to #4, & #4 to #3).  I changed those wires on the distributor.  The other thing I noticed was that the manual indicates where the #1 cylinder is on the distributer (rearward middle connection), and the direction that the distributer turns.  So at that point you can know what wire is going to the #1 cylinder, and just follow the firing order around to make sure all is correct.  In my case though, my #1 wire was 2 ports over on the distributor from what the manual says is supposed to go to cylinder #1.  Not sure how that can be, but all I can say is it has always run perfect and nothing has ever been moved since I’ve owned the boat (8 years). 

So, Saturday afternoon Jason and I go over to a local lake to test the boat (with the 3 & 4 wires the way they should be in the firing order).  I has also drained the old gas and put in a fresh tank of new gas, just incase.  The boat idled fine, but when you attempt to plane and put any kind of load on the motor, it starts backfiring right away.  Jason checked the timing and determines that it is at 30 degrees BTDC, rather than 10 degrees like the manual recommends.  Jason loosens the distributor hold down screw and tries to adjust the timing to get it to specs, but the distributor is stuck, and doesn’t want to move.  We hit it with some liquid wrench, but nothing doing – it is stuck.  The distributor is aluminum and the thought is that the unlike metals (dist & intake) create a reaction that contributes to   the distributor becoming stuck.  I Googled the issue, and there was quite a bit written about people having the same issue as mine.  General concensus was to hit it with lubricant (like PB Blaster) for as much time as it takes to free it up, but not to reef on it to break it loose, as it will break off and you will have more issues. 

So we left the lake thinking that the timing must be the issue.  Jason emailed me this morning, and I will just insert his text here:  “I did a little experimenting with my old Mercury Montclair yesterday. It has a 390 Ford V8. It's a different engine than the 460 but has the same firing order and timing spec (10-14 BTDC). Anyway, I changed the timing from 10 to 30 to match your boat and it actually ran smoother. So, Even though your timing is off, I don't think it's causing the backfiring and ruff running we were hearing. Especially since we never moved the distributor in the first place. It would still be nice to get the timing right, but I think there must be something else off. I also swapped the 3 and 4 cylinders to match how your engine was. It still ran ok but was ruff. I didn't rev it up but I did not hear any knocking”.

This certainly seems to make some sense that the 30 degrees doesn’t matter, since it always ran fine before, and we never changed the timing (the dist is stuck and wont move). 

So I am now turning to the forum to see if anybody has any great insight or ideas as to what I may be experiencing.  We never touched the distributor last year when the motor was out, just put in new plugs and labeled / re-connected wires to them.  Obviously it ran well with the timing where it was, and with the #1 wire moved over 2 spots (not sure what to make of all that).   Could be a bad plug perhaps?  Cap, rotor, & points have been on there since I’ve had it, but I was taking the approach that if it runs well, don’t mess with it.   New fuel filter put in-line, why would that matter.  Carb is a large Holley, and was rebuilt professionally a few years back when I was having some vapor lock problems.  Mechanically all looks good with the carb – choke seems to be functioning fine and the secondaries seem to open fine when giving it the groceries.  Plugs in at least 4 of the cylinders are really hard to get to with the motor in, and the exhaust connected.  So they have not been removed to look them over.  I am really at a loss.  Jason or Jim, please throw in any additional details I may have missed. 

Did somebody perhaps steal my good running 460 at the Mpls boat show, and put one in it's place that had problems?   

Sorry for the length of this, but it has turned into kind of a long story.  Thanks for any insights or ideas you guys might have. 
Scott
1977 Glastron Carlson CVX20 Deluxe Jet (Now Sold)
2001 Cobalt 190

Offline MarkS

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Re: 460 Question - Head Scratcher
« Reply #1 on: June 05, 2012, 05:19:51 AM »
Please keep in mind I'm just an amateur "wrench" Scott, but a couple thoughts.....
Quote
New fuel filter put in-line, why would that matter.
Is it possible the new filter is restricting fuel flow to the motor?  Doesn't explain the strange noise (from the valve cover), but something to consider?

I'd also look at the cap and rotor, maybe the plug wires.  Sitting up they can accumulate condensation, it's rare (but always possible) to get a "bad" spark plug these days.  Pulling the plugs for inspection can be helpful in diagnosing a problem, even though it's a big PITA.

Didn't mean to muddy the waters, hope one of the real mechanics are able to help you resolve the problem.  You've got one of the best pit crews in the business here, I know they'll come up with something.   ;)
Mark
1978 SSV-176

Offline Rich_V174SS

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Re: 460 Question - Head Scratcher
« Reply #2 on: June 05, 2012, 06:28:29 AM »
A couple things come to mind.

First, the location of plug wire #1 on the distributor doesn't necessarily need to coincide with what the book says, what matters is where the rotor is positioned in relation to the #1 post when the #1 piston is at top-dead-center. It is possible to be on the opposite side but that will make it more difficult to run the wires properly.

Second, having the timing set at 30* rather than 10* makes a huge difference and will cause backfiring, not to mention it can damage your pistons being so far advanced. That is more advanced than it should be compared to when the engine is running at full throttle under proper settings. Your distributor advances the timing as you increase throttle so where it is now will actually advance an additional 15 degrees or so when you give it the gas, up to about 45*. That's not a good thing. I would verify that your #1 plug wire is on the correct post when that cylinder is at top-dead-center on the compression stroke. I'm thinking when plug wires were reinstalled maybe they were put on a post over from where they should have been. ???

Lastly, I'm doing a valve job right now for a guy that has a Mercruiser 3.7 4 cylinder, same engine that's in my boat. The engine uses the same cylinder head as the Ford 460. It seems over the winter he got a sticking valve, the intake valve on the #4 cylinder causing back-firing through the carburetor. It seemed fine last year but sometimes over the winter these things happen. I pulled the head and brought it to the local machine shop and had it checked and re-seated. I just need to reinstall the head now and fire it up.
« Last Edit: June 05, 2012, 06:46:23 AM by Rich_V174SS »
1967 V174 Crestflite SuperSport Modified
1987 Mercruiser 190 3.7LX/Alpha One

1970 V176 Swinger
1983 Mercury 115

Offline Scott_E

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Re: 460 Question - Head Scratcher
« Reply #3 on: June 05, 2012, 09:07:02 AM »
Rich / Mark,  Thanks for the responses.  Jason did try moving the wires on the distributor in each direction by 1 spot, just for fun.  One direction it would not run or fire, the other way it ran extremely rough if I remember correctly.  Also,  I don't think the plug wires were ever taken off the distributor when the motor was out, just labeled 1-8 when pulled to replace the plugs.  The 30 degree timing thing is bizzare, because the timing was always like that and the motor ran well.  I don't get it?

Related to fuel / carburation, if fuel was constricted or it wasn't getting adequate fuel under load, would you get backfires?  I would think you would get bogging instead. 
Scott
1977 Glastron Carlson CVX20 Deluxe Jet (Now Sold)
2001 Cobalt 190

Offline ChfBrianB

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Re: 460 Question - Head Scratcher
« Reply #4 on: June 05, 2012, 11:05:13 AM »
I'm going to go out on a limb and suggest that it's the simplest thing that it could be.  I'm going to say that there is a cracked spark plug.

I'm by no means a pro, but the logical thing is the easiest thing that could break.  I know from personal experience with that motor that it is very easy to bump a plug when fitting the exhaust manifolds.  I did it myself.  In fact, if i remember correctly, I cracked two of them.

The only real way to get at the plugs with the motor in the boat is to remove the rear seat, remove the exhaust manifolds, and then work from inside the boat.  It's honestly not too hard.  The key is to have the proper hex wrench for the exhanst manifolds, and then some high temp RTV sealant just in case as you put it back together since there are no manifold gaskets.

A cracked plug could explain why it seems to idle correctly, but doesn't give you the power that you need at higher rpm's  The knocking is strange, but it seems logical that if you are dropping spark on a cylindar that you could get some weird noises.

As far as ignition, I replaced my stock setup with a Pertronics unit.  It was a electronic switchover that was just a drop in plate inside the rotor cap.  I didn't have to change the distributor housing or the cap, so everything looked stock.  I did fight with the system though, and although it was the least expensive, I was not completly confident in it.  I  did buy a high quality coil from Pertronics as well.  I think that the whole changeover was $175 or so.

Anyway, I would say that if it's not a broken plug, it sounds like ignition to me.  I would recommend MSD ignition if you can afford it.  It's in the $400-$500 range i think, but it's supposed to be the best.
Brian
1975 V-173 (The Gravy Boat)
1976 CV-16SS (Greener Grass)
1977 CVX-20 Deluxe (Silver Fox)
1976 V-195
1986 CV-23
1977 T-166XL Sportster (Plan B)
1977 CVX-16

Offline fireman24mn

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Re: 460 Question - Head Scratcher
« Reply #5 on: June 05, 2012, 11:15:24 AM »
A couple years ago I replaced the plugs wires and had the Carb rebuilt on the V184 (Ford 302). Put it all back together and could not get it to run very well misfiring and rough running. looked up firing orders changed them thinking I did it wrong changed timing tried everything I could think of. Finally took it to a mechanic and he told be the carb was bad and needed to be rebuilt. I didn't believe that to be correct and hauled it to the guys house that rebuilt the carb. We screwed around for a couple hours and even took the carb back apart. Couldnt figure it out. We checked the oil and it had a bunch of gas in it. We put the old plugs back in and it started right up with no problems and ran great. Changed the oil  a few times to get the gas out and the I was good to go again. I Got Champian spark plugs because that is all the auto parts store had when I was in to get the new ones. Turned out 3 of them were junk out of the box. I have never been a fan of champion and have had this before with there plugs. Not sure what kind you used but I would start there seems to be the only thing that changed in your situation. Like the saying goes start with the simple stuff. My opinion try new plugs!
I think this has become an addiction.


1977 CV-23 I/O Full Resto complete
1976 CV-16 V8 Resto in progress
1985 Pearson MotorYacht 43ft

Offline Scott_E

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Re: 460 Question - Head Scratcher
« Reply #6 on: June 05, 2012, 11:36:55 AM »
Thanks guys.  Sounds like I should start with plugs.  I will try to remove the easy ones first (and hope for a bad one), and go from there.  Seat will inevitably have to come out again, as well as exhaust.  >:(
Scott
1977 Glastron Carlson CVX20 Deluxe Jet (Now Sold)
2001 Cobalt 190

Offline Jason

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Re: 460 Question - Head Scratcher
« Reply #7 on: June 05, 2012, 12:15:14 PM »
A couple years ago I replaced the plugs wires and had the Carb rebuilt on the V184 (Ford 302). Put it all back together and could not get it to run very well misfiring and rough running. looked up firing orders changed them thinking I did it wrong changed timing tried everything I could think of. Finally took it to a mechanic and he told be the carb was bad and needed to be rebuilt. I didn't believe that to be correct and hauled it to the guys house that rebuilt the carb. We screwed around for a couple hours and even took the carb back apart. Couldnt figure it out. We checked the oil and it had a bunch of gas in it. We put the old plugs back in and it started right up with no problems and ran great. Changed the oil  a few times to get the gas out and the I was good to go again. I Got Champian spark plugs because that is all the auto parts store had when I was in to get the new ones. Turned out 3 of them were junk out of the box. I have never been a fan of champion and have had this before with there plugs. Not sure what kind you used but I would start there seems to be the only thing that changed in your situation. Like the saying goes start with the simple stuff. My opinion try new plugs!

Ha! funny. I have heard of bad things with Champion plugs. I told Scott not to buy them. I think he got NSK if I remember right.

Do you really need to pull the exhaust manifolds? I could reach every boot even with the back seat in there by hand. This was with the engine cover off........

Pull one at a time, ground it on the intake, crank the engine over, and make sure you got good spark at the plug. Do this for all 8. This will verify the plugs, wires, and all connections are good.

If this all checks out, remove all plugs and check compression at each cylinder. This should indicate if you have a sticky intake valve as Rich suggested.

It's probably still worth trying to get the timing right though. It will also be easier to wrench on that thing with the back seat off.

Jason S.
1974 Glastron Carlson CV16SS 140 I/O
1986 Glastron Carlson CV23 260 I/O

Offline ChfBrianB

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Re: 460 Question - Head Scratcher
« Reply #8 on: June 05, 2012, 01:28:46 PM »

Do you really need to pull the exhaust manifolds? I could reach every boot even with the back seat in there by hand. This was with the engine cover off........


No...  you don't HAVE to, but it's really tough to do it otherwise.  You are upside down and backwards and the angles to get a wrench in there are nearly impossible.  Jim and I had to try 3 different universal joints to get one that would clear the manifold.  I'm not kidding when I say that the first time I tried to change the plugs in mine from the top it took me 5 hours and some seriously bloody forearms. It would be totally different if that plywood wasn't 2 inches from the manifold on both sides.

The second and third times, I learned to take out the bench, and the whole job was 2 hours.
Brian
1975 V-173 (The Gravy Boat)
1976 CV-16SS (Greener Grass)
1977 CVX-20 Deluxe (Silver Fox)
1976 V-195
1986 CV-23
1977 T-166XL Sportster (Plan B)
1977 CVX-16

Offline Scott_E

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Re: 460 Question - Head Scratcher
« Reply #9 on: June 05, 2012, 01:45:39 PM »
I was trying to order some ignition parts, but nobody in the parts world seems to identify with the 460 Ford Berkeley Packajet setup.  Their books don't go there when you try to order a cap, rotor, points & condensor. 

Anyway, I was taking some pics for a parts guy, because he said he could id what I need if I gave him pics.  I also took off the little metal shelf that sits in the distributor.  Underneath it are weights and springs, for some type of timing advance I think (my engine knowledge doesn't go quite that far).  One of these springs is not there.  There is a spring in there that is very light duty, as if somebody tried to put the wrong spring in, and it sprung.  It is all curled up in there now.  So only the one side has a working spring.  Could this be part of my problem?  A $.50 spring (oh $10, it's marine). 

Hopefully my pics are here to be seen - I have had trouble getting pics on here correctly in the past. 
Scott
1977 Glastron Carlson CVX20 Deluxe Jet (Now Sold)
2001 Cobalt 190

Offline ChfBrianB

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Re: 460 Question - Head Scratcher
« Reply #10 on: June 05, 2012, 02:14:43 PM »
Well now, see...  That's yer problem right there!

Brian
1975 V-173 (The Gravy Boat)
1976 CV-16SS (Greener Grass)
1977 CVX-20 Deluxe (Silver Fox)
1976 V-195
1986 CV-23
1977 T-166XL Sportster (Plan B)
1977 CVX-16

Offline Scott_E

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Re: 460 Question - Head Scratcher
« Reply #11 on: June 05, 2012, 02:58:24 PM »
I'm somewhat skeptical though, since I'm pretty sure this didn't just happen.  It might explain the 30 degree timing, and the fact that it was able to run like that due to this broken spring somehow compensating for that perhaps??  Really not sure.
Scott
1977 Glastron Carlson CVX20 Deluxe Jet (Now Sold)
2001 Cobalt 190

Offline Rich_V174SS

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Re: 460 Question - Head Scratcher
« Reply #12 on: June 05, 2012, 05:36:16 PM »
Yeah, I'd say those springs are causing your problem. Your distributor is running advanced timing from the moment you start it because there's no tension left on the springs. Change them out and then check your timing.
1967 V174 Crestflite SuperSport Modified
1987 Mercruiser 190 3.7LX/Alpha One

1970 V176 Swinger
1983 Mercury 115