Author Topic: CVX18 Redeux (Read 24136 times)

dorelse · « **Reply #40 on:** April 07, 2013, 08:51:20 PM »

I found mine under the dash this weekend too! Can't read mine though...

CVX Fever · « **Reply #41 on:** April 07, 2013, 08:59:29 PM »

I have a '79 CVX18. Love mine and wouldn't own any other Carlson. You' ll really enjoy it once you get it rebuilt and running. I'm sticking a 5.7/Gen 2 drive in mine currently. They'll run mid to high fifties with the 305.

Glastronjohn18 · « **Reply #42 on:** April 08, 2013, 07:01:32 AM »

I like your idea of an engine upgrade. You know what they say about horsepower and cubic inches.

A little is good
More is better
And too much.....is just enough!!

CVX Fever · « **Reply #43 on:** April 08, 2013, 10:05:27 AM »

I was gonna say as long as you already went and pulled that old 305 anyways!

.......LOL

Hyperacme · « **Reply #44 on:** April 08, 2013, 09:12:11 PM »

"Extra points if you can tell me what kind of paper it's printed on."

" It has the old fashion computer punch marks. No idea what's is called. Bet Gregg does though! "

I have no idea what it's made of ... but "Yes" it an old punch card ...

http://www.classicglastron.com/gl-reflt-p8.htm

1966 ...

Glastronjohn18 · « **Reply #45 on:** April 08, 2013, 10:26:32 PM »

Quote

"Extra points if you can tell me what kind of paper it's printed on."

" It has the old fashion computer punch marks. No idea what's is called. Bet Gregg does though! "

I have no idea what it's made of ... but "Yes" it an old punch card ...

The answer I was looking for is IBM Punch Card. Looks like both of you came close enough to call it a tie. Bonus point all around!
The sad thing is I remember them like it was yesterday. No Windows,no Mac just Basic, Pascal and Dos. You didn't point at an icon you wrote out the command line by line.

Hyperacme · « **Reply #46 on:** April 09, 2013, 09:25:11 AM »

The BAD old days ... LOL

Glastronjohn18 · « **Reply #47 on:** April 12, 2013, 09:05:20 PM »

I'm back in the garage today. I got the grab rail and ski tow back from the fab shop today. The center bracket on the rail is 6" further back on the CVX16 than the CVX18 , I had the original rivet hole welded shut so I can mount the bracket in it's proper place. The ski tow, as bought had a pin to secure it so I had it changed to a twist mount to match the bracket that I have.

Before and after

Fits good in it's new home

Many Thanks to :
Shawn, for bringing this ski tow to my attention and his remarks on it's quality.

Brandon, for getting the measurements from his original ski tow.

Dick Smorol, for his excellent fabrication work.

Next I began removing the flotation boxes. The starboard side box is pretty soggy with the foam under the battery and rearward completly soaked.

My new tool friend is the multi-tool. Some of you have said how handy this is and now I can agree with you.

This tool makes disassembly easy. Just cut the tabbing and the wood disitegrates as you remove it.

The port side was the same way. Wet to the core.
Here's what it looks like with no flotation boxes.

Tomorrow I'll continue with the floor removal.

eta1091 · « **Reply #48 on:** April 12, 2013, 11:22:39 PM »

Lookin good, I like your tool suggestion, I welded two 12" sawzall blades together to cut out my foam. the box forms came out like a piece of cake, the foam was dry 1/2 way down. the bottom half was frozen and the sawzall blades cut through all the way to side of the hull. your boat is gonna be nice.

75starflight · « **Reply #49 on:** April 12, 2013, 11:42:58 PM »

Ski tow looks nice.

Glastronjohn18 · « **Reply #50 on:** April 13, 2013, 07:30:23 AM »

Quote

Lookin good, I like your tool suggestion, I welded two 12" sawzall blades together to cut out my foam. the box forms came out like a piece of cake, the foam was dry 1/2 way down. the bottom half was frozen and the sawzall blades cut through all the way to side of the hull. your boat is gonna be nice

Thanks.like you I used a sawzall to cut the foam after I removed the wood. I've been following your timmie project . Like the color of your boat also how you did the interior.

Quote

Ski tow looks nice.

Thanks Brandon. Without your input it would not have happened.

Glastronjohn18 · « **Reply #51 on:** April 20, 2013, 08:14:26 PM »

I got a little more work done today.I started by tearing up the floor in the bow. Not much left of the plywood and the fiberglass mat was so deteriorated you can push your finger through it.

I'm having trouble loading pictures after the 1st one I did.

The cross member at the rear is a little wet.

Hyperacme · « **Reply #52 on:** April 20, 2013, 08:33:35 PM »

Photobucket gets screwed up from time to time ... Ya OK ... All the time ...
Try using another browser ....
Some times one will work when others don't ...

Glastronjohn18 · « **Reply #53 on:** April 20, 2013, 09:28:52 PM »

Thanks Gregg. It seems my photos didn't upload properly to Photobucket. Uploaded them again and we're back in buisness.
Lets try this again.

The ends of the stringers weren't capped so there is some rot there.

The rear cross member is a little wet also.

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Question. Under the area where I think the seats went their are the remains of what looks to be bracing. In the photo you can see the outline. It would have been approx. 6 1/2in. x 13 in. At the bottom right corner of the outline you can see a bit of plywood. One of the PO's replaced the front section of floor with some bare plywood so I don't know what was under there. Was there a brace? I have the original swivel bases. Do they mount direct to the floor or mount on a wood base?

Front section of floor done.

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Taking a short break from the boat. One of the guys I work with brought over a generator and golf cart for me to get running. Cleaned out the carbs on both engines and remove lots of vintage gas (2 years} from the tanks. Generator now runs fine. Golf cart not so much. Can't seem to get a spark although it turns over.
I'll think about the boat for a while and mabe I'll figure out why no spark with the cart.

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Boy, that plywood sure is wet. Makes it easy to rip out.

Glastronjohn18 · « **Reply #54 on:** May 19, 2013, 10:59:02 PM »

I can't believe it's been a month since I updated this thread. There's been a lot going on, except for the boat. The racing season is in full swing so
I spend Friday and Saturday nights riding around the race tracks in a tow truck picking up wrecks. I have managed to finish tearing out the floor,
removed the dash panel and removed the steering wheel. Today I started removing the steering rack and came upon a bolt that was well rusted.
As usual it was the one that is most inaccessible. After a few smashed fingers and words not worthy of repeating here I decided to move on to another project. When your at an impasse it seems to help if you go on to something else and return later. So I moved to the transom. When I first looked at this boat, tapping on the transom I noticed 2 spots that sounded soft. Removing the outer layer of 'glass confirmed my observation. Except the spots turned out to be all the wood to the left of the outdrive and all the wood to the right of the outdrive.
The only wood that was solid was around the edges of the cutout and across the bottom and around the bilge drain hole.

After cutting along the tabbing the first layer of plywood was out in less than 5 min.

Here is what was holding the 2 pieces of 3/4in. plywood together. 6 nails. 2 of which I used for illustration. The plywood was 'glassed to the transom with about 1/8in.of resin, no mat between the outer skin and wood. Nothing between the 2 pieces of plywood and 1 layer of mat over the plywood to tab it to the transom.
Whether you use glue or 'glass mat to bond your plywood together the transom has got to be stronger than when it left the factory.

A short time later I hit fiberglass.

What wood that wasn't rotten was soaking wet. Being so rotten the wood came out with a minimum of chiseling, it took longer to clean out the area around the drain hole. Total time to remove transom wood, including cleanup was 2hr.3min. That was Easy.

Conclusion: If you are buying a boat that needs stringers and/or transom, look for the one with the most rot.

CVX Fever · « **Reply #55 on:** May 20, 2013, 11:05:05 AM »

Wow John I hope the old transom comes out that easy on my CVX18. Thanks for the pictures and commentary.

BTW the CVX18 is a great Carlson for water sports so you'll get good use out of your ski tow. And I
like how you designed it to twist and lock into place. Very nice!

CVZ18Fan · « **Reply #56 on:** May 20, 2013, 11:15:50 AM »

Nice progress. I have a feeling that all of what you experienced is going to be familiar with my CVZ18 rebuild. Keep us up to date.

Rich

Tonka Jim · « **Reply #57 on:** May 20, 2013, 04:46:57 PM »

Looks like the back half of my 174.
the floor 7 stringers werew good in the front half.

Glastronjohn18 · « **Reply #58 on:** June 03, 2014, 10:12:14 PM »

Well, I can't believe it's been a year since I seriously worked on the CVX. I did some stuff here and there but for the most part life happened and the boat project moved to the back burner. Here is an update on the project.
Last summer I started a new relationship with a girl that happened to be moving out of state the week after we met. Several trips to her new digs to see her, my full time work schedule, plus working weekends at the race tracks took up most of the summer.

Betty and I with the tow truck I ride around in at the races.

Then came winter and it was a GOOD WINTER for snowmobiling. So Saturdays (my only day off) were spent on the trails.

In between all these activities I managed to get a little work done on the boat.
I tore down one of the original seats from the "78 parts boat, made some patterns and built 2 new front seats.

See all the details here...

http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=3820.msg45433#msg45433

The stringers are next.

To remove the stringers I cut the top fiberglass and pulled them out. They came out so easy by hand that I was sure the factory failed to bed them in. I was wrong . On closer examination you can see PB on the bottom of the hull where the stringers lay.

I pulled the upholstery off the side panels only to find rotted wood which resembled wet rust. Some quality time with the saw and I whipped up a new panel.

I pulled the remaining hardware off the boat and purchased a new tow ring from Atwood. Amazingly the new unit is an exact match to the old one. Pretty good find for a piece that's 34 years old.

Next I removed the dash panel and gauges. There are some connectors that are green but that can be expected.

I also found exact replacement switches from the original manufacturer.
For more info on the switches click on the link.

http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=5738.0

That brings me to today's activities. I cut out templates for the floor. Originally I stopped at a big box store to get several sheets of pink foam board for the templates but came up with a better solution than big box. I work for a company that has a wholesale sheetrock division so I went there to look around. Sure enough they had foam board insulation but only with the foil backing. I explained to the manager that just to make templates the foil board was too expensive. Solution... the manager went to the warehouse and returned with 5 damaged sheets of foam board at a most reasonable price. Free.

Well that just about does it for now. I'll be putting more time into this project this summer.
Did I mention I have a new girlfriend? I know she is a keeper.
Every couple of days she asks me

" Are you working on the boat?"

CVX Fever · « **Reply #59 on:** June 04, 2014, 10:50:40 PM »

Hey John concerning the brace for the front pedestals they just scabbed in a piece of 1/2 inch ply cut square, under the floor to give the screws holding the pedestals to the floor a little more wood to bite into.

My CVX18 is going to end up being a complete rebuild from the kick panel back. I don't like how close the seats sit to the floor so I'm going to raise my pedestals at least 1 1/2 inches off the floor by building pads for them to sit on. This will make the floor 2" thick where the pedestals mount/sit.