Author Topic: Back at it CVZ-18 rebuild (Read 34958 times)

dorelse · « **Reply #20 on:** June 24, 2015, 09:31:34 AM »

Ah...creative engineering!!

Plugcheck · « **Reply #21 on:** June 24, 2015, 03:25:52 PM »

If memory serves me correctly, wasn't it exhaust pipe with a gallon of RTV sealant was used for tips? Getting the glass to bond in a round hole will be a challenge, but I'm certain Brandon will have it looking nice.

75starflight · « **Reply #22 on:** June 24, 2015, 08:15:17 PM »

Thank you for the vote of confidence Mike! And yes you are correct regular exhaust flanges with a lot of rtv to seal it.

Rosscoe · « **Reply #23 on:** June 24, 2015, 08:56:48 PM »

Making good progress. Too bad you can not use those holes. So with the power steering set up in a stock CVZ, where would those holes have to go to be usable?

75starflight · « **Reply #24 on:** June 24, 2015, 09:44:03 PM »

Same location as a cvx-18 mid transom

Glastronjohn18 · « **Reply #25 on:** June 24, 2015, 10:31:25 PM »

Quote from: 75starflight on June 22, 2015, 10:09:44 AM

I forgot to mention this in my first post. Has anyone found nails in the transom wood during their replacement? I found four in the wood under the fiberglass.

A little late to this party. I found nails in the transom of my CVX. Here's a quote from one of my posts.

Here is what was holding the 2 pieces of 3/4in. plywood together. 6 nails. 2 of which I used for illustration. The plywood was 'glassed to the transom with about 1/8in.of resin, no mat between the outer skin and wood. Nothing between the 2 pieces of plywood and 1 layer of mat over the plywood to tab it to the transom.
Whether you use glue or 'glass mat to bond your plywood together the transom has got to be stronger than when it left the factory.

Plugcheck · « **Reply #26 on:** June 25, 2015, 12:04:35 PM »

Here is a photo of my exhaust cutouts/path. The holes in Brandon's are much higher

75starflight · « **Reply #27 on:** July 03, 2015, 02:53:17 PM »

First round of fiberglass layup is done. 2 big holes and 10 smaller holes all done.

Plugcheck · « **Reply #28 on:** July 03, 2015, 07:00:50 PM »

Are you not going for the full width transom like I did?

75starflight · « **Reply #29 on:** July 03, 2015, 09:49:20 PM »

Thinking I am going to go with the original transom.

Plugcheck · « **Reply #30 on:** July 03, 2015, 10:42:57 PM »

Should work out just fine that way. Not certain the full width was worth the effort, but did make for extra support of cables and trim pump.

dorelse · « **Reply #31 on:** July 03, 2015, 11:28:02 PM »

I laid wood in one side section Brandon for ladder support. Not that you need the full transom like Mike, but just while you're back there...something to think about!

Hyperacme · « **Reply #32 on:** July 04, 2015, 08:36:08 AM »

After all the nasty cuttin' & grindin', your at the fun part now !
Some backing support for ladder would be a good idea.
Nothing wrong with over building ... LOL

75starflight · « **Reply #33 on:** July 04, 2015, 09:17:16 AM »

Unfortunately I do still have more grinding to do, ugh! I still have to clean up the tabbing around the stringers and bulkhead areas and all the tabbing from the foam boxes. For some reason I just want good mating surfaces when I start all the glass work. Wood installation is still at least a week out.

Plugcheck · « **Reply #34 on:** July 04, 2015, 10:27:03 AM »

I spent a full day grinding and prepping for new wood, after using detergent and the hotsey to remove all the great and old nasty gunk. Lots of carpet adhesive slowed progress, clogged up even 18 grit disks. This was done with halves separated, I would imagine it would hamoer efforts when the top is still attached. Clean and roughened up should allow the new resin to bite. Not certain if different resins are available that adhere better in certain applications. Looks like good progress, next year launch?

75starflight · « **Reply #35 on:** July 04, 2015, 12:06:51 PM »

Quote from: Plugcheck on July 04, 2015, 10:27:03 AM

Looks like good progress, next year launch?

I sure hope so, but it all depends on funds, finding an indoor place to work over the winter, and finding the proper size compressor to spray gel coat. My goal right now is to get the structure back in by the end of july beginning of august and then repair the top side then flip over and work on the bottom of the hull.

Plugcheck · « **Reply #36 on:** July 04, 2015, 12:41:32 PM »

Some friendly advice, take a good look at the hull before laying up the stringers and floor. With the structure deteriating over time, the hull can get distorted. Most hooks especially those created by transom sag from poor fitting bunks can be corrected now. This will save lots of time and materials when and if you plan to blueprint the hull.

75starflight · « **Reply #37 on:** July 23, 2015, 10:01:58 PM »

I really didn't notice how small these transoms are compared to what I put in Phoenix. Got the transom cut and fit this evening. I hope to have it installed and clamped by Sunday.

Plugcheck · « **Reply #38 on:** July 24, 2015, 12:19:18 AM »

Progress is good, even little steps. Will you have a place to work on it this winter? I would be interested in helping with gel work to learn its basics. Planning a river run day with
z next Sunday if your interested. Going up to cottonwood. Time to check the place out for future events, or maybe even call events

75starflight · « **Reply #39 on:** July 24, 2015, 09:25:21 AM »

Mike are you talking this sunday or sunday the 2nd