Author Topic: Looking for ideas on an Engine purchase & pickup (Read 27237 times)

dorelse · « **Reply #40 on:** March 05, 2016, 10:32:07 AM »

What's a coil cost? Might be easier & cheaper to just grab a new one Jim?

Rich_V174SS · « **Reply #41 on:** March 05, 2016, 11:30:12 AM »

New coils from Mercury are $50-$75 I think. I've replaced a bunch for people. In fact I may need to replace the coil on the engine for my B-boat project.

Plugcheck · « **Reply #42 on:** March 05, 2016, 01:29:49 PM »

If your in the market for a coil, I would advise buying one that matches the desired ignition control system. The coil impedance and ballast requirement are specific to the ignition system. As for testing the existing, just apply power directly to the coil, when you remove power, the magnetic field collapses, inducing the secondary output. For simply testing, any old coil will work. Just make sure the body is well grounded since it is the other side of the output transformer.

dorelse · « **Reply #43 on:** March 05, 2016, 10:47:44 PM »

Ok, aside from the fact my engine doesn't run...time to bolt on a turbo!!! (And watch the fiberglass melt I suspect...)

http://youtu.be/UgZLKEToBuo

california special · « **Reply #44 on:** March 06, 2016, 07:54:47 AM »

i know some of you like those motors but i would advise against putting that motor in the boat. They DO make decent power BUT they stopped making it 29 years ago. ive seen several crack cyl heads, leak coolant where the box attaches to the manifold, cam seals go bad/cam shaft rots. they crank slow, they run hot the voltage regs go bad and there like $500 stators go bad. and that alternator kit is $600 and its nothing special the pulleys fall off you need to frequently tighten them. if you havent had any of these problems you will. ive seen them very well taken care of and have problems. they get rod knocks too and theyre an expensive build

Rich_V174SS · « **Reply #45 on:** March 06, 2016, 08:11:00 AM »

Mine's been running good. As for stator/regulators they've already been replaced with alternator conversion kits. Leak coolant at the reservoir - replace the gasket and helicoil the bolt threads. They only run hot if you've got a plugged exhaust elbow like any other engine, mine runs at expected temperature. Pulley's fall off? Haven't heard that one before. Cracked head? Unless you're running water through the block instead of 50/50 glycol it shouldn't happen. Crank slow? Replace the starter like you would with any other engine. Cam/seals? Well, yeah one quirk but manageable. Rod knocks? Same as any other engine.

dorelse · « **Reply #46 on:** March 06, 2016, 02:14:16 PM »

I'm not terribly worried...its the 3.7L version vs. the 470, so it already has the 4" heat exchanger, alternator is already on it. P/S is possible and with any luck, it will bolt right up to my existing outdrive set up.

Cheapest way to add 50hp with minimal modification, and for my Metric, its the right motor to put in. The guys in the club who know me, know that I don't need to be fastest on the water. I do want a little more power than the 3.0L is giving though. I believe will fit under the engine cover with no cutting, which is an even greater reason to do it.

I bought it assuming it needs a complete rebuild...if I'm fortunate and it doesn't, even better.

Tonka Jim · « **Reply #47 on:** March 08, 2016, 08:04:20 PM »

Hey Rich,
Is this the right one for Dorn's 3.7 or does he need the 40611 coil?

http://www.amazon.com/Pertronix-Ignitor-Matching-1146A-Marine/dp/B00ID9SZKM?SubscriptionId=AKIAIKBZ7IH7LXTW3ARA&&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B00ID9SZKM&tag=wwwbookcompar-20&ascsubtag=56dad7cf48308f46a085b380

dorelse · « **Reply #48 on:** March 08, 2016, 09:27:51 PM »

Look...$200! Take the other one back Jim!!! j/k

https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/bpo/5470639829.html

Tonka Jim · « **Reply #49 on:** March 08, 2016, 09:40:51 PM »

Sleepy Eye is close to Mankato
That one has power steering & exhaust tube, it would be worth it for parts.

dorelse · « **Reply #50 on:** March 08, 2016, 09:49:03 PM »

Quote from: Tonka Jim on March 08, 2016, 09:40:51 PM

Sleepy Eye is close to Mankato
That one has power steering & exhaust tube, it would be worth it for parts.

Its very close to home (Winthrop)...yeah, we'll see. The Baja would probably break in 2 trying to haul 2 engines...

If this is the right coil, I can certainly order this one...$33 isn't to bad.

http://bpi.ebasicpower.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=622_964_1094_1050&products_id=2311

dorelse · « **Reply #51 on:** March 08, 2016, 09:54:42 PM »

Looks like the 'el cheapo' marine starter is $82.00 on ebay...not sure if that's cheaper than a rebuild or not...

dorelse · « **Reply #52 on:** March 08, 2016, 10:00:46 PM »

The exhaust parts are already coming...very reasonable on ebay.

Rich_V174SS · « **Reply #53 on:** March 08, 2016, 10:33:47 PM »

Quote from: Tonka Jim on March 08, 2016, 08:04:20 PM

Hey Rich,
Is this the right one for Dorn's 3.7 or does he need the 40611 coil?

http://www.amazon.com/Pertronix-Ignitor-Matching-1146A-Marine/dp/B00ID9SZKM?SubscriptionId=AKIAIKBZ7IH7LXTW3ARA&&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B00ID9SZKM&tag=wwwbookcompar-20&ascsubtag=56dad7cf48308f46a085b380

I usually use Mercury replacement coils. I believe the Mercury one requires an external resistor/ballast because I know the wire harness has a resistance wire. The ignitor should be fine, for Delco 4 cylinder. Looks like their coil will work according to the engine model numbers.

california special · « **Reply #54 on:** March 09, 2016, 07:27:20 AM »

the reason why i say they develop rod knocks is because the are frequently put i larger boats. 21 ft cuddys. they were in sun runners tons of big 4 winns ect. around here they generaly live a tough life in the salt water, also im sure getting water/ anti freeze in the oil doesnt help. that pulley you bolt on to the balancer for the alt kit. it seems that there not balanced good and the look eccentric while the engine runs. i believe on more than one occasion i had to cut pieces of the floor out to make room for the pulley. jmho

Rich_V174SS · « **Reply #55 on:** March 09, 2016, 09:06:46 AM »

The pulley for the alt kit is supposed to be drilled and aligned with roll pins to keep it held in place according to the mounting instructions. I doubt anyone who's installed one has ever done that, lazy mechanics. They have a small lip that's supposed to recess into the face of the crank pulley but yeah, sometimes they go concentric and wobble.

Tonka Jim · « **Reply #56 on:** March 10, 2016, 03:20:00 PM »

Update;

Cleaned up & replaced a broken brush spring in the starter & got it to turn over fast enough to do a compression test.

Front to back 60 / 40 / 75 / 60 psi.

Gave up on trying to get it to fire / still no spark.

You might want to rent a trailer & pick-up both engines.

dorelse · « **Reply #57 on:** March 10, 2016, 03:41:15 PM »

Well the other one is documented to not run either...meh...I'll get that one rebuilt eventually...no biggie (and expected).

Rich_V174SS · « **Reply #58 on:** March 10, 2016, 03:50:11 PM »

Quote from: Tonka Jim on March 10, 2016, 03:20:00 PM

Update;

Cleaned up & replaced a broken brush spring in the starter & got it to turn over fast enough to do a compression test.

Front to back 60 / 40 / 75 / 60 psi.

Gave up on trying to get it to fire / still no spark.

You might want to rent a trailer & pick-up both engines.

It won't run with those compressions with or without spark. They run best over 140 per cylinder.

Tonka Jim · « **Reply #59 on:** March 10, 2016, 03:53:26 PM »

Quote from: Rich_V174SS on March 10, 2016, 03:50:11 PM

It won't run with those compressions with or without spark. They run best over 140 per cylinder.

Figured that, that's why I gave up