Author Topic: Timi time  (Read 32003 times)

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Offline Plugcheck

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Re: Timi time
« Reply #80 on: March 14, 2018, 11:51:27 PM »
No big secrets, just haven't fully decided on an engine and drive combo just yet.  Current plan is a fuel injected 468 ci BBC with bravo outdrive.  Hook will be removed, hull bluprinted.  Hydraulic trim tabs, hydraulic steering.  Quite a few other mods, but none are really secret, just in flux as the project progresses.
Michael
1979 CVZ-18 388 CI Vortec Mouse
1980 CVX-16SS 140 Mercruiser
1979 CVX-16 Johnson 175
2002 Bennington 2275CC 90 Mercury
1985 Intimidator project
1989 Lowe 200 Redneck fishin Toon
2001 Godfrey Sweetwater pontoon 115 Rude

Offline Plugcheck

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Re: Timi time
« Reply #81 on: April 09, 2018, 09:57:05 AM »
Progress has been slow from a combination of work schedule and finding more cracks and blisters.  Hook has been removed, the cracks/blisters repaired, and overall straitening and sharpening continues.   Now I find myself at a crossroads.  Do a form a pad or simply blueprint the v hull at the keel.  I've designed a pad that would be 9" x 12" tapering to 3" wide halfway up the keel.  The flat part of the pad would be 1/4" taller than the current V.  Any opinions or suggestions?
Michael
1979 CVZ-18 388 CI Vortec Mouse
1980 CVX-16SS 140 Mercruiser
1979 CVX-16 Johnson 175
2002 Bennington 2275CC 90 Mercury
1985 Intimidator project
1989 Lowe 200 Redneck fishin Toon
2001 Godfrey Sweetwater pontoon 115 Rude

Offline fireman24mn

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Re: Timi time
« Reply #82 on: April 09, 2018, 02:27:07 PM »
I think I would leave the v. Those boats are pretty fast out of the gate and since you removed the hook should be even better.
I think this has become an addiction.


1977 CV-23 I/O Full Resto complete
1976 CV-16 V8 Resto in progress
1985 Pearson MotorYacht 43ft

Offline still_fishin

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Re: Timi time
« Reply #83 on: April 11, 2018, 09:38:57 PM »
From my experience the 18 can and will wash out in a  tight turn under power,  the intimidator has yet to wash out under ridiculous amounts of power. What do you want this boat to do?

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'80 Intimidator
'85 CV23

Offline Plugcheck

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Re: Timi time
« Reply #84 on: April 11, 2018, 10:03:45 PM »
Considered the lift of a pad at higher speeds, but the proper integration is not an easy task.  My 18 requires a prop that provides stern lift to use the pad, but I'd rather keep a 3 blade on the Timi.  It is not likely I will ever revisit hull mods once the bottom is complete.  The amount of work to fix blisters, remove hook, straighten strakes, and repair damage has been quite time consuming.  Overall, the work done on the bottom will have a big effect on the way this craft performs.  I just don't see being able to do this when it's not upside down.
Michael
1979 CVZ-18 388 CI Vortec Mouse
1980 CVX-16SS 140 Mercruiser
1979 CVX-16 Johnson 175
2002 Bennington 2275CC 90 Mercury
1985 Intimidator project
1989 Lowe 200 Redneck fishin Toon
2001 Godfrey Sweetwater pontoon 115 Rude

Offline Cali special

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Re: Timi time
« Reply #85 on: April 12, 2018, 07:09:50 AM »
My opinion the best way to get lift on a Carlson I/o is raw power. I found props that offer a lot of lift hinder rpms on top.

Offline Plugcheck

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Re: Timi time
« Reply #86 on: April 21, 2018, 10:27:26 PM »
After spending far to much time on fixing blisters, damage, and poor previous repairs, I decided to go with a blueprinting of the hull, minus the hooks and slight keel rocker.  She is now smooth, straight, and sharp.  Put down some primer, now just to block it out and prep for barrier coats and bottom finish.  I certainly hope the time and effort spent on the hull will pay off when the time comes for testing.  I really cannot imagine doing this on my back, but it could be done.  1st picture is before primer, the green is epoxy fairing compound. 
Michael
1979 CVZ-18 388 CI Vortec Mouse
1980 CVX-16SS 140 Mercruiser
1979 CVX-16 Johnson 175
2002 Bennington 2275CC 90 Mercury
1985 Intimidator project
1989 Lowe 200 Redneck fishin Toon
2001 Godfrey Sweetwater pontoon 115 Rude

Offline Hyperacme

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Re: Timi time
« Reply #87 on: April 22, 2018, 09:02:57 AM »
I think you made the right decision Mike ...
The Intimidator was there "High Performance" design, though hull exhaust and raised X dimension.
I would think if a pad would help, they would have done it ...
But there was rumors that it was faster then they wanted, so they put a hook in hull.

IMHO ... Keep it as original as reasonable possible.
Just my 2 cents ...

On Facebook there's a guy in SD, redoing a blue one, that turned green ...     

Offline Hyperacme

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Re: Timi time
« Reply #88 on: April 22, 2018, 09:03:38 AM »
Few more ..

Offline Plugcheck

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Re: Timi time
« Reply #89 on: April 22, 2018, 12:16:34 PM »
Not many shops have a ficus that's for certain.   Tags indicate a Nebraska Timi, and I happened to see someone towing one a few weeks back that looks identical.  Indition design by racoons?  I wonder where is SoDak it resides now,  hopefully he could bring it out in August to TI?  I've got most of a day ahead block sanding, might get a coat or two on before bedtime.
Michael
1979 CVZ-18 388 CI Vortec Mouse
1980 CVX-16SS 140 Mercruiser
1979 CVX-16 Johnson 175
2002 Bennington 2275CC 90 Mercury
1985 Intimidator project
1989 Lowe 200 Redneck fishin Toon
2001 Godfrey Sweetwater pontoon 115 Rude

Offline Hyperacme

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Re: Timi time
« Reply #90 on: April 22, 2018, 12:29:39 PM »
He lives in Yankton, South Dakota.
Would guess that was about the time he picked it up.
Must have been same boat.
Ya ... Hope he brings it to T.I. !

Offline Plugcheck

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Re: Timi time
« Reply #91 on: April 22, 2018, 04:31:11 PM »
I hope he becomes active on the forum, Lewis and Clark lake would make a nice place for a Glastron get together.  Of course the MN folks would be welcome to join us as well.
Michael
1979 CVZ-18 388 CI Vortec Mouse
1980 CVX-16SS 140 Mercruiser
1979 CVX-16 Johnson 175
2002 Bennington 2275CC 90 Mercury
1985 Intimidator project
1989 Lowe 200 Redneck fishin Toon
2001 Godfrey Sweetwater pontoon 115 Rude

Offline Plugcheck

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Re: Timi time
« Reply #92 on: May 04, 2018, 06:58:37 PM »
So my arms about fell off from block sanding, but I got it smooth and straight.  Final coat of interprotect 2000e went on Wednesday, so a quick sanding and four coats of VC performance epoxy.  Of course every knat from half mile had to come check in what I was doing.   Got a few imperfections, going to wait till morning, maybe wet sand the  bugs out, and shoot a couple more wet coat.  Kit make two gallons, and I've used half to lay on four coats.  A decision in morning...   
Michael
1979 CVZ-18 388 CI Vortec Mouse
1980 CVX-16SS 140 Mercruiser
1979 CVX-16 Johnson 175
2002 Bennington 2275CC 90 Mercury
1985 Intimidator project
1989 Lowe 200 Redneck fishin Toon
2001 Godfrey Sweetwater pontoon 115 Rude

Offline RedOctober89

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Re: Timi time
« Reply #93 on: May 11, 2018, 06:50:58 AM »
That looks beautiful! Definitely a lot of hard work has gone into that hull
Andrew C.
1989 Glastron Carlson 23 CSS 350 Mag - Red October
Follow the project on Instagram: redoctober89

Offline Plugcheck

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Re: Timi time
« Reply #94 on: October 20, 2018, 08:46:39 PM »
So cooler weather has arrived, and time to stage projects for the winter.  I set the Timi aside to let the epoxy fully cure and spend time with the CVZ.  Some cleaning and wet sanding and the hull is ready to be flipped.  I plan to lay 2x6's down and reverse engineer the cradle so it fits perfect.    Once flipped, time to work the top and prep to mate the halves once again. 
Michael
1979 CVZ-18 388 CI Vortec Mouse
1980 CVX-16SS 140 Mercruiser
1979 CVX-16 Johnson 175
2002 Bennington 2275CC 90 Mercury
1985 Intimidator project
1989 Lowe 200 Redneck fishin Toon
2001 Godfrey Sweetwater pontoon 115 Rude

Offline Plugcheck

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Re: Timi time
« Reply #95 on: November 12, 2018, 11:03:10 PM »
Brought the top into the shop to repair the rub rail edge.  Washed all the dirt and grime off, pulled all the items mounted to hull, then washed again.  As is usually the case, this process uncovers other issues.  My pictures aren't the best, but curious to know if anyone else has dealt with this issue.  Someone ground a bevel into the rub rail mounting area that severely weakened the connection.  Many of the holes broke out the bottom I assume from years of flexing.  The overall width of this area also seems narrow compared to others I've done.  Plan is to figure out how to lengthen and strengthen this area.  Adding layers to reinforce the area shouldn't be bad, it's how do I set the first layer, really can't use a form?  Any ideas anyone?
Michael
1979 CVZ-18 388 CI Vortec Mouse
1980 CVX-16SS 140 Mercruiser
1979 CVX-16 Johnson 175
2002 Bennington 2275CC 90 Mercury
1985 Intimidator project
1989 Lowe 200 Redneck fishin Toon
2001 Godfrey Sweetwater pontoon 115 Rude

Offline thedeuceman

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Re: Timi time
« Reply #96 on: November 13, 2018, 06:22:15 AM »
I recall our GT being ground like that, I did not fix it and it gave me trouble later on. I would prob lay about a 1” strip on the outside freehand and then build in from there, kinda wasteful but should work. That’s how I built the hatch cover for the Bal Harbor


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Joe
75 GT150 "SeaDeuced"... Its Back !!
92 16CSS "Attitude Adjustment" is for sale
75 CV-16V8, Project
74 CV-16... its Purple !

Offline fireman24mn

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Re: Timi time
« Reply #97 on: November 13, 2018, 09:28:50 AM »
I had a number of areas I had to fix on the 23. Just grind them out and start adding layers. Let them hang off and the just cut a straight line with saw or die grinder. Also if you do need some kind of backing material to hold a form or shape, use duct tape and aluminum tape (HVAC tape). Just make sure to add/ repair both sides.
You can see my precut pieces in the first pic to add to the chunk missing.
« Last Edit: November 13, 2018, 09:31:08 AM by fireman24mn »
I think this has become an addiction.


1977 CV-23 I/O Full Resto complete
1976 CV-16 V8 Resto in progress
1985 Pearson MotorYacht 43ft

Offline Plugcheck

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Re: Timi time
« Reply #98 on: November 13, 2018, 10:44:05 AM »
       I cut some cloth strips about 2" wide, and I'm planning to apply the first layer from the outside,   Hopefully as it hardens I can make sure its straight, this would cut some time off the shaping and filling.   I'm a bit skeptical of using any fillers on this outside edge as I feel the edge may distort a bit when adding all the screws.   Fillers don't like to be flexed and screws/bolts have a tendency to dig in.    I am planning to flip the top over since I need to incorporate a new pvc wire tube, and to add reinforcement to where the gunwales tie to the bow and stern glass areas.   The top is pretty badly cracked in these areas.   There is also a significant amount of foam.  The bow has "logs" glassed in, but I'm thinking of pouring the gaps so I don't end up with the "stripes" of dew on the bow.   
     How did you flip the top Shawn?   team effort?
Michael
1979 CVZ-18 388 CI Vortec Mouse
1980 CVX-16SS 140 Mercruiser
1979 CVX-16 Johnson 175
2002 Bennington 2275CC 90 Mercury
1985 Intimidator project
1989 Lowe 200 Redneck fishin Toon
2001 Godfrey Sweetwater pontoon 115 Rude

Offline fireman24mn

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Re: Timi time
« Reply #99 on: November 13, 2018, 11:07:20 AM »
The top on my 23 was able to be carried by 4 people pretty easy. It would probably pull the foam logs and then you could just core the deck like my 23 is/ was. As far as filler I wouldn't worry too much. Look at the amount of areas that are in my 23 and I did not have any problems. Remember the filler is only filling the small imperfections and voids all the strength is in the glass. Just remember to make the fiberglass repair areas larger than just the immediate area.

Here is a video of me laminating the coring. I used balsa but you could use plastic core as well.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yH3COUN_wpg
I think this has become an addiction.


1977 CV-23 I/O Full Resto complete
1976 CV-16 V8 Resto in progress
1985 Pearson MotorYacht 43ft