Author Topic: Project Carla: 74' CV-16SS Restoration (Read 21223 times)

Glastronjohn18 · « **Reply #80 on:** April 08, 2023, 06:21:31 PM »

Nice find on the seats and a nice build on the stand. I strap my drive down when it's on the stand just to keep it steady as I move it. keep up the good work.

awc105 · « **Reply #81 on:** April 10, 2023, 07:50:23 PM »

Hey Thanks! That's a good idea!

Used a vacation day to get some work done, I got the drive sanded down and painted. Ive always had good luck with the quicksilver phantom black paint, I used the primer, leveler and clear coat as well. I'm very happy with the results! 3 coats of primer, black, and clear

I'm going to wait a couple weeks for the paint to fully cure, then I'll apply the 888 decals.

I received some parts today, new oil pan, dip stick, pan gasket and a stud kit, I'll probably install those this weekend.

I cleaned up one of the pieces from the seats I recently got, I wiped the vinyl with mineral spirits, then with 303, it cleaned up pretty nice, but there's alot of scratches and small damage so in the end I'm going to have them re covered. Going to try and find the same color vinyl.

Looks like May 1st is when my boat will be able to get back in the shop, so that's when I'll begin the hull painting!

-Andrew

Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk

Fatlenny · « **Reply #82 on:** April 11, 2023, 04:13:59 PM »

That vinyl has to be around 50 years old. It is dry as an old dog bone. Try some mineral oil to soften them up. Vinyl is a plastic material and plastics are made from petroleum. As they age the oil comes out of the vinyl and becomes stiff and brittle. You could get some blue vinyl die at your local auto parts place in a spray can. I woudnt spray the parts as they are blotchy from factory. I would find something close in color and spray some on the corner of an old towel or use a sponge and dab some color on the spots that have lost color. Cant hurt to try to bring them back. If you try to stitch up the couple of open seams in the seat back I would for sure get the vinyl soft with a few coats of baby oil or mineral oil. Keep in mind that I am recommending mineral oil, not mineral spirits. The spirits will strip more oil out of the vinyl and make it more dry and brittle than before.

awc105 · « **Reply #83 on:** April 12, 2023, 11:38:57 AM »

Hey thanks for the tips, I'll give it a try! For now the seats have been put into storage until I am ready for them.

I had some down time today so I was able to sketch up a couple concepts for the engine cover, I plan to shape a large block (9 cubic feet or so) of foam and then make a mold for the cover. I wanted the cover to retain a sleek look, I also added a front air scoop and cutouts in the back for the over transom exhaust.

Attached are the concept images. Let me know which one you all think is cooler, etc...

-Andrew

awc105 · « **Reply #84 on:** April 12, 2023, 01:42:59 PM »

Concept 2 with the 3" inline silencers and exhaust flaps I'm planning on using.

Ok, enough CAD for now...

-Andrew

thedeuceman · « **Reply #85 on:** April 12, 2023, 06:10:48 PM »

Wow? You did a great job of modeling those. It?s all a matter of opinion, honestly, I have a hard time picking one. I think concept one has more pleasing lines, but the scoop is obvious, not saying it?s bad, just noticeable. It. Concept two is a little boxier but it?s kind of cool how the scoop is integrated You can?t hardly tell it?s there.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Hyperacme · « **Reply #86 on:** April 12, 2023, 06:18:39 PM »

I like #2 .. blends in better .. Both look good

awc105 · « **Reply #87 on:** April 16, 2023, 08:12:45 PM »

Hey thanks!

Also thanks for the input! I think I prefer 2 as well, I've been doing quite a bit of research on mold making lately. I know the engine cover will be one of the last things I actually tackle, but it's nice to at least have an idea what direction to head in design-wise! I am only able to work on the boat on the weekends currently, so during the week I try and tackle anything else about the project that I can.

I did get some work done this weekend though! Started the oil pan replacement, however I found the oil pan I purchased is incompatible with the stock ford pickup...I had a gut feeling I should have ordered the recommended one for the pan...long story short the new pickup will arrive sometime this week. I still mounted the pan to seat the gasket and let the RTV cure into place. FYI for anyone using a Canton 13-600 oil pan, use canton pickup 15-641. Still trying to figure out the best path to route the dipstick.

In other news, after letting the drive paint cure for a week I filled it with gear lube, put on the decals, and reinstalled all the accessories, only thing it's missing is a prop!
Very happy with the final look!

It was 84 this weekend and tomorrow it's supposed to drop to 35...

-Andrew

ford-bldr · « **Reply #88 on:** April 17, 2023, 11:52:16 AM »

Like the concepts. Lean towards #2...

Used this in the past on car projects when I mixed new and old vinyl in the interiors. Works nice:

https://www.amazon.com/CarGuys-Plastic-Restorer-Ultimate-Solution/dp/B071FRWWRF/ref=sr_1_2?hvadid=616863386373&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=1023136&hvnetw=s&hvqmt=e&hvrand=14336940050508154316&hvtargid=kwd-1981246522&hydadcr=24662_13611802&keywords=vinyl+restore&qid=1681749915&sr=8-2

Dan

awc105 · « **Reply #89 on:** April 21, 2023, 01:52:22 PM »

Hey thanks for the tip! I'll have to try some.
If I end up recovering the seats, I think I have found a good replacement vinyl: https://www.sailrite.com/Morbern-Carrara-Blue-54-Vinyl-Fabric
It's a tad darker than the awlcraft paint I'm planning to use, however I think it will match nicely.

Hoping to finish up the oil pan job this weekend, got the new pickup tube in the mail yesterday.

Boat is going in the shop May 1st, so I will be ordering the materials to start the painting process soon!

Looks like we all agree on concept 2, I spent some time smoothing it out, time to mothball it until I'm ready to make a cover...

Those that have a CV-16SS or similar what kind of a prop are you running? The 74' brochure mentions running a 23P prop on the Mercruiser 140.

Hyperacme · « **Reply #90 on:** April 21, 2023, 02:17:42 PM »

I found a few small pieces of blue vinyl under deck of a 1976 CV16, so ordered a few samples.
Cancun blue came closest to original.
Company I got it from is out of business now .. but vinyl should be available from other suppliers.

I think Jason (1974 CV16SS , 140 MC) is running a 21P Viper II, maybe 46 to 47 MPH.

awc105 · « **Reply #91 on:** April 24, 2023, 12:42:22 PM »

Thanks for the vinyl recommendations!

Got the oil pan job wrapped up this weekend, installed the new dipstick, and put on the valve cover decals. Calling the engine done at this point.
Also received the 3" inline silencers, they look nice!

In the next few days I will be ordering the first batch of materials to start the painting process, starting with sanding the hull and putting on the awlgrip 545 primer.
Next weekend I am planning on rebuilding and painting the trim cylinders as well. Anyone know a good way to disassemble these without using a pipe wrench like the service manual says?

Extra points for noticing all the rotten plywood and foam from my dads sea-ray in the background!

-Andrew

awc105 · « **Reply #92 on:** May 01, 2023, 11:31:56 AM »

Got some paint materials in last week, still need to order the top coat...

Still waiting on the weather to allow us to swap boats in the shop, likely this coming weekend, so in the mean-time I decided I'd rebuild and paint the trim cylinders. Got them disassembled last night.

Really getting the itch to get the painting done and start reassembly this year!

-Andrew

ford-bldr · « **Reply #93 on:** May 01, 2023, 12:50:09 PM »

I like the progress!
Disassemble / Clean / Repair/ Replace / Re=assemble / NEXT!

Plugcheck · « **Reply #94 on:** May 01, 2023, 04:07:05 PM »

Did you use a pipe wrench to disassemble the lift cylinders? I was going to suggest a strap wrench, or possibly drill the tops to accept a spanner? Either way it looks like you were able to open them. Project looks great so far, hopefully splash it soon

awc105 · « **Reply #95 on:** May 02, 2023, 06:47:39 AM »

Hey Thanks!

Trying to approach it systematically, I can only work on it on the weekends so need to work efficiently.

To remove the caps I ended up using soft vice jaws and 1" dia. wooden dowel on the eye on the opposite end, worked great!

-Andrew

awc105 · « **Reply #96 on:** May 22, 2023, 06:22:35 PM »

Well this weekend was a productive one. The shop got cleaned up and we moved out my dads sea-ray, I then proceeded to uncover the 3 layers of tarps covering the boat. Last fall I used many bricks to hold down the edges of the tarps, all the wind and snow and they never came loose! Once the boat was uncovered I jacked up the cradle to remove the blocks, then fill the tires with air. I used some cheap casters off amazon and, not surprisingly, at least two of them are already dry-rotted after only a year... At first glance it appears there wasn't any leakage of the tarps and everything under the boat looked good, I was worried there might be some condensation, but it appeared to be dry. I then tied a strap from the tractor to the frame and pulled it up to the shop. The final push was all man power haha but we got it inside ok.

Planning to get started sanding nice and early next Saturday! Man is it nice to have her back in the shop! Goal for the summer is to have all the painting done, back on the trailer, with the engine installed.

-Andrew

awc105 · « **Reply #97 on:** May 22, 2023, 06:23:11 PM »

More pics

awc105 · « **Reply #98 on:** May 22, 2023, 06:23:37 PM »

More pics

awc105 · « **Reply #99 on:** May 22, 2023, 06:26:23 PM »

More pics