Minnesota Classic Glastron Forum
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: catchnedge on March 03, 2020, 06:51:09 AM
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Been busy last few months with a few minor repairs and improvements to the 16 that we acquired last year.
The steering got real stiff so had hydraulic steering installed. We raised the engine one bolt hole, but I haven’t had a chance to test it yet. The plastic insert in splash well was cracked up. Since no longer needed with new steering I covered up the space.
The port seat base was cracked, so ripped out carpet and had a friend that does minor fiberglass work reinforce both sides for me. The foot board under dash leading to bow space had a factory made glove box on port side only with absolutely no access to bow on either side. Hated the lack of storage and seeing the gas tank too. I cut out access to starboard side to match port, carpeted, then closed in with cover material with snaps for easy access and finishing off whole area.
Bench seat had built in cooler taking up 2/3rds of the under seat storage space. We never intended to use anyway, so removed for more storage. Put new carpet throughout boat. I wanted to go grey but Sandy insisted we use Teal to keep retro look.
I was excited to put the new windshield P-shaped gasket to use. Removed the old foam seal and used two-sided clear tape to hold new gasket in place during install. Worked pretty good and real happy with the end result, except I recommend you make ends long enough to go under both bracket screws. Stretch it slightly before you screw it down so it doesn’t sag or get loose in corners.
Lastly I had a new cover built. I designed it to seal/snap tight around transom and splash well to keep rodents out when stored.
Next week I intend to splash the boat and bring the trailer home for bunk rework and a few other items. I want to fix it up like I’ve done others, full drive on/off where I’m not worried about missing a roller and gouging up hull. I’ll post some pics of before and after.
Excellent boating weather on the way… can’t wait to get it out. Lake Austin here we come!
Here are some pictures of the work...
https://photos.app.goo.gl/cf5RGS8tvLa5LoRN9
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Your gonna LOVE your Baystar !
I went three holes up, or down .. and cavitation plate is about two inches above bottom of boat.
After lifting, tilt ram was blocking splash well drain though.
Still getting good water PSI. Do you have a water pressure gauge ?
What was your speed / RPM / prop before lifting motor ?
I agree with your wife on the carpet .. Looks GREAT!
Plastic fuel tank isn't original is it ?
OK to add your windshield gasket install recommendation to the CVX windshield thread ?
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Your gonna LOVE your Baystar !
I went three holes up, or down .. and cavitation plate is about two inches above bottom of boat.
After lifting, tilt ram was blocking splash well drain though.
Still getting good water PSI. Do you have a water pressure gauge ?
What was your speed / RPM / prop before lifting motor ?
I agree with your wife on the carpet .. Looks GREAT!
Plastic fuel tank isn't original is it ?
OK to add your windshield gasket install recommendation to the CVX windshield thread ?
- It's very smooth.
- drain hole still clear.
- only ran for a few minutes with it raised, good steady tell-tale stream, but prob good idea to get one.
- 46mph gps @ 5000rpm with Laser II 22p, 1/3 tank me and Sandy in boat. I probably had a little (very little) more rpms but wasn't sure how high I should take it at the time.
- Not sure but guessing it's not original just because the fill hose has extreme bend to tank (like it wasn't designed for it), but not sure what they were doing in 1989?
-sure
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5250 RPM's max ..
My motor is a 1989 also … I have same prop .. 22 P Laser II ..
Ya .. most have the steel tank.
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All nice work Mark. All those improvements add up to a lot of time spent just to make it right. I too removed the cooler from the under the back seat and use the space for jumper cables and a spare prop.
Have resisted the hydraulic steering route so far, and also raising the motor, which is on the lowest setting. Put in Teleflex no feed back steering, which is absolutely necessary with the tremendous Raker and SRX prop torques.
I needed to replace the passengers seat base, preserve the wood, and put in all stainless steel fasteners in the seating and in the back bench seat.
Your entire boat looks just like new and you can be very proud of it.
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I needed to replace the passengers seat base, preserve the wood, and put in all stainless steel fasteners in the seating and in the back bench seat.
Thanks David. Looks like a completely different back seat design. I didn't have to replace any of the seat wood themselves, but did have to get a little creative to get the two buckets straight and lean back a little. They were at all weird angles leaning one way or the other. Also used some bolts to hold bottoms on instead of screws.
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Covered up hole in dash... Thanks Doran!
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What hole! ;D
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What the heck was that hole for ?
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What the heck was that hole for ?
Radio antenna... top doesn't fit base (just sitting on it in the pictutre), was going to keep it but couldn't find one to fit base, more I thought about it don't really want it there anyways.
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If you are wanting a hidden radio antenna, I have one in Phoenix out of a Caseih/new holland tractor. they run about $50 but can be completely hidden within the confines of the hull. Part number if interested is 409426a3
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If you are wanting a hidden radio antenna, I have one in Phoenix out of a Caseih/new holland tractor. they run about $50 but can be completely hidden within the confines of the hull. Part number if interested is 409426a3
Thanks Brandon, that's a good idea/option. But the existing cable that runs to this base (hidden) seems to be working good enough by itself. We don't really use the radio much. lot of times I'll just blue tooth from my phone to a portable speaker.
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.. and cavitation plate is about two inches above bottom of boat.
finally able to see exactly where the motor height is compared to bottom of boat with boat on lift... with straight edge on bottom of boat, engine trimmed down, water line is just under cavitation plate, like only an 1/8 or 1/4 of an inch. Seems about right, yes?
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Mine is one hole up from bottom. Hard to get an exact measurement, but looks like at least two inches above bottom of hull.
I do have to trim " IN " in sharp corners or it will blow out. Scared the crap out of me first time it happened .. LOL
Wasn't sure about water pressure, so didn't go all the way down on mounts, but getting good psi even at 50 plus mph.
Same motor & prop as yours ..
Full tank & 200 lbs. passenger = 50 mph/gps
Full tank & me = 52 mph/gps
Low fuel & me = 53 to 54 mph/gps
Bouncing around at 50 plus mph, hard to see tach but 5200 to 5300 rpm's.
Do you still have your trim tab on your cav. plate ?
Haven't removed mine yet, but with Baystar might not need it.
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trim tab still on. I'm one bolt hole from top I think... it's at the lake. Interesting to compare, thanks for sending... you're little higher than I. I think my speed is a little slower than yours, gotta get back out and make sure of the rpms. Think I'm gonna have my prop looked at and cupped.
trailer finished. time for boat and fine adjustment. 16s gonna be happy! couple before and after pics.
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Trailer looks great Mark !
If ya get the chance, try without the tab, will be some time till I'm back on the unfrozen water.
Dave .. Isn't the Laser II cupped ?
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Dave .. Isn't the Laser II cupped ?
It appears that it is slightly... was going to have it balanced and tweaked.
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It appears that it is slightly... was going to have it balanced and tweaked.
Yes, the Laser II is cupped. When I get a stainless steel prop. I always touch it up to get out any dings, bends, nicks, etc using a paddlewheel and 2" diameter sandpaper disc. I always sharpen the blades and polish the prop to a mirror finish. Since I do not take off a lot of metal, I do not worry about balancing it, but one can make a homemade prop balancer.