Minnesota Classic Glastron Forum
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: David CVX-16 on October 07, 2011, 08:40:18 PM
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Gregg lists as his profile "Boatless". Here are some more suggestions:
Boatless in Woodbury
Boatless but not Hopeless
Between Boats
Glastron Boat Shopping
My Last Boat was a V-156
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While we're at it, lets change the name of the classic glastron of the day thread to "Greggslist"... :)
Just a thought.
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I like that. Good idea.
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Just talked to Alicia ('76 CV16 in Litchfeild) about the trip to see the boat.
She didn't know much about it but said they got it in '07 from some friends in town.
The interior was redone in 2004 and motor might be a '90, '91, '92 or '93 ... LOL
We'll see how it go's ...
I like " Between Boats "
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Gregg is not boatless anymore! WoooHooo!!!
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Gregg is not boatless anymore! WoooHooo!!!
So did the Litchfield one work out? Or are we back with the '71?
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Litchfeild is a soild boat but lightly faded, has no sand paper feel to it. I should leave the excitement for Gregg to let you guys in on this one, I dont think he is home yet just left my place about 15 min ago.
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Glad to hear one worked out. That's been my favorite from the beginning, so I'm glad he's not boatless. Should be plenty of pictures soon! (That's a hint Greg...)
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Preview of Gregg's boat 1976 CV16 with Mariner 115 HP, Laser II prop. Knowing Gregg, every surface will be washed, cleaned, polished, and waxed.
Congratulations on your fine boat.
David
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Good to hear Gregg!
We gonna see you on the St. Croix tomorrow for a test run?!
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I am with boat !
Just wanted to say a HUGE thanks to Steve ... Your the best !
Your help was invaluable ...
The gel / flake is in pretty good shape, as Steve said but it has some warts...
Few deep gouges and scrape, althought way better then I thought it would be.
Transom will need repair in a few years, it's solid but "IFFY" ...
Interior is better then I thought, weird choose of blue but I'll live with it.
I have never been in a CV16 ... That little mother is a rocket !
I think I'm gonna like her ... LOL
Was hoping to make it out tomorrow, but need to fix steering wheel mounts ...
At Steves house I noticed a small vicegrip hanging down from under dash ...Instead of putting nuts and washers to hold the helm to the dash PO used TWO ... YEP ... TWO vicesgrips on the two studs ... WTF ?
Spent a few hours cleaning the dripping goo off the motor ... Some people ...
Pictures are where Steve took some compound to flake and gel, hard to see but cleaned up nice.
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Should clean up real nice Gregg. Did you GPS the top speed?
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Welcome to the cv-16 club gregg, now I really need to finish mine.
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Nice find Gregg!! That is going to clean up real nicely and I get it scoots REAL good!!!!!
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I'm reserving judgement 'til I see more pictures ...
Nice find Gregg. Looks suweet!
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Dave
No ... Was to much going on ... never even looked at the speedo ...
PO said about 50 mph on speedo.
Got a 20 P lazer II on it, some small nicks, all in all pretty good shape and a good trade in or sell it on CL.
He also gave me a Al. 19 P prop new in the box with a Torq flo hub kit ( one prop fits all with hub thingy )
Boat is fast ... kind of scared me when I started triming it, then noticed it wasn't even at full throttle ...
Not use to that much power ... LOL
Sean ...
It like hopping out of your Grandmas Pinto wagon and climbing in to a sports car !
Your gonna LOVE it !
I'm in LOVE !
This was the boat I wanted ... Blue CV16 ... Wouldn't have been happy with any thing else ... Well maybe not any thing ...
Will need a lot of work, and I'll put way more time and money into it then it's worth ... BUT I'm HAPPY !
It's sad to think that no one has gave her any love sence 2007 ...
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Gregg, I'd be glad to touch up the Laser II for you. When things settle down, we need to test different props on your boat. Steve has a Rapture 21" he swears by, the present 20" Laser II may work, and then I have my collection of props for you to try.
What gauges do you have - speedometer, tachometer, water pressure, trim angle?
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Speedo, Tach, Gas and Trim.
Yep ... need to do some prop testing.
Steve didn't like the Lazer II at all.
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Congrats Gregg!
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Mariners are pretty much the same as Mercury's right? Looks like it will clean up real nice! Newer model 115. So equivalent to the older 140hp??? That boat should do 50 easy.
Yea, Welcome to the CV16 club Gregg!
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Thanks for the warm welcome guys ...
I payed to much for it but after the test drive I was hooked ...
Did find a quarter in the glove box ...
Hoping to find $200 or $300 under the seat ... LOL
It is one of the 2+2 motors, wasn't to happy to find that out ...
Exact same motor as a Merc ... only gray.
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Believe it or not those 2+2 engines run really well, and they're quiet.
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Boy, I'm glad that's over!!!
I can't wait to get out there with you guys.
Congrats Gregg
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Rich
Thats good to hear ...
It did run good, good comp, new fuel pump and ing. box thingy ...
Steve poked and probed her with his Hi-Tech gadgets and gave her the "Thumbs - Up "
Ask him (PO) when was the last time the impeller was changed ...
His answer ... Whats an impeller ?
At least he knew what gear lube was ...
Jerry
YEP ... were gonna have some FUN, come next summer !
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The old start-up Glastron gang from four years ago sure has changed. Then it was only "classic", now it has to be classic and fast.
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Spent a few hours cleaning the dripping goo off the motor
Check the clear oil hoses inside the shrouds, they have a tendency to crack and fall apart when they get old and should be replaced. Otherwise you get 2 cycle oil all over the place. Also, the plastic links that connect the throttle linkages at each carburetor get brittle and break, I've replaced those before too on engines that were the identical. If there are any more "quirks" I can think of I'll let you know or if you have any questions just ask.
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Thank Rich I'll check it out.
PO said he replaced some of the zip ties on the oil injection hoses.
From the look of motor theres about a gal. of old oil and gas runnin' down the sides and in the cowel.
Lack of up keep ...
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Sweeeeeeeeeet greg.
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Well done Gregg... welcome to the Carlson crew!
sounds like you are very happy with it, happy for you.
now you've got one, the rest is blood, sweat, cussing, combinations of cuss words, money, AND the occasional trouble-free day of boating in a super-cool ride. Enjoy! ;D
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Wex
Yep ... Got a lot of work a head of me ...
Wife came home late last night and looked over new boat ...
She said ...
OOOooo... It STINKS ... (old gas and musty interior smells)
To much blue ... ya should have got the blue and white hull ... (told ya Tim !)
Well ... looks like ya need a new trailer ...
Sent Sara pictures ...
She pumped we got a sparkly boat that gos FAST !
Thats my girl !
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Congrats my friend! Looks like you scored a nice one. Now you have all winter to clean, polish, and tweak her to your standards. I think I may have an extra hardware kit for the helm in the garage, I'll look today. And hey, a quarter in the glove box AND two pair of vice grips. Getting better all the time! Ha ha. Enjoy your new G/C buddy, you deserve it. ;)
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Excellent Gregg! Happy for you!
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Gregg
Glad you found something that will work for you.
Need any help let me know,
Jeff
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Congrats Gregg! Looks like it should buff out like new in the pictures without too much work!
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Congratulations Gegg. Nice little boat. I'm sure you will have it just the way you want it by spring thaw.
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Here it is folks...
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There's something wrong with your new boat Gregg...its seriously listing starboard.
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There's something wrong with your new boat Gregg...its seriously listing starboard.
But if the water's pointing in the same direction it's usually okay ...
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Here, fixed it!
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I'll swear going over some of the BIG wakes today it felt like it was at that angle more then once !
20 P Lazer II ... 5600 rpm's ... 49.5 mph on gps ...
Need a 21 P to keep rpm's down to 5250 rpm's and get me over 50 mph.
What a seat of the pants boat ... Ya gotta watch what your doing...
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Good for you Gregg! Glad you got that out of the way. Your motor looks to be around the same vintage as mine (89-90) and for being a 4 cylinder, Steve actually seemed to be suprised with how mine performed after I gave him a ride.
As happy as I am for you, dang... to the rear of the pack for me again. 115! You dog.
You gonna take that ski pylon out or use it for drying your towel?
Oh and the blue stripes look good on the motor too!
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I'll swear going over some of the BIG wakes today it felt like it was at that angle more then once !
20 P Lazer II ... 5600 rpm's ... 49.5 mph on gps ...
Need a 21 P to keep rpm's down to 5250 rpm's and get me over 50 mph.
What a seat of the pants boat ... Ya gotta watch what your doing...
5600 rpm? Is that good on the 4 bangers? Granted yours isint rebuilt but my rebuilder said 5K and Steve agreed. Dont want ya blowing it up this season already!
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Shortly after those inline 4's came out in the late 80's people started braking cranks. those motors were originally rated at 5500 rpms but merc sent out a recall notice after the problems arrised and to not run above 5250 rpms, they all had to be reproped.
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Once I get a 21 P prop on it rpm's should be down to 5250 rpm"s.
I have no self control when it comes to WOT ...
Motor is a 1991, after doing some searching ... this power head was made from 1989 till 1993, in 1994 some thing changed, not sure what ?
Ski pole, radio, speakers are removed ...
It's a custom 1976 CV16 Mariner Special Edition ... LOL
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Gregg
I bet Panokin the Prop Master has something for you.
Bet he wants to put his 23 brassy on but you might out run him.
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Steve and Dave have props that will work, can't remember who has which one or even what there called ... LOL
I should be able to reach my 50 mph goal ...
..... and beat that GT150 !
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Just wait til it's a little colder, that should get you the extra .5 mph
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Congrats...you should not have a problem hitting the 50 mark, my cvx16 with a 115 Johnson and a 19" prop is running 48-50. I had a cv 16 before my cvx16 and they are definetly a fun ride.
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Jeff, the 23" 2-blade bronze was sold to Ross to keep his RPM's under 5,000, but he can go at least 5,200 with that prop and it was the fastest on White Bear Lake of the three props tested at 48.3 MPH if I remember correctly.
Gregg, candidate props I have are the 21" three blade Ballistic stainless steel, and the 2-blade bronze 21" pitch Quicksilver. I have three props untried that I am saving for the 1988 115 HP Merc - 22" Chopper, 22" Ballistic, and a 21" PowerTec RAF.
You might try a 22" Laser II that would drop your RPM's down about 400 RPM, and after trying both the 20" and 22" Laser II on my boat, the 22" seems more efficient. Once my new motor is installed, I know of someone who has a 22" Laser that I may borrow. His boat is a Bayliner. There I said the "B" word. He left his boat uncovered in the winter and brought it over to work to unthaw for one week.
Glad you got in the test run. Makes it easier to know where to go from there. If your prop blades need filing, sanding and polishing, let me know.
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Jeff, the 23" 2-blade bronze was sold to Ross to keep his RPM's under 5,000, but he can go at least 5,200 with that prop and it was the fastest on White Bear Lake of the three props tested at 48.3 MPH if I remember correctly.
Gregg, candidate props I have are the 21" three blade Ballistic stainless steel, and the 2-blade bronze 21" pitch Quicksilver. I have three props untried that I am saving for the 1988 115 HP Merc - 22" Chopper, 22" Ballistic, and a 21" PowerTec RAF.
You might try a 22" Laser II that would drop your RPM's down about 400 RPM, and after trying both the 20" and 22" Laser II on my boat, the 22" seems more efficient. Once my new motor is installed, I know of someone who has a 22" Laser that I may borrow. His boat is a Bayliner. There I said the "B" word. He left his boat uncovered in the winter and brought it over to work to unthaw for one week.
Glad you got in the test run. Makes it easier to know where to go from there. If your prop blades need filing, sanding and polishing, let me know.
Just wondering what the Ballistic 22 and the powertec 21 look like, the 22 B would be the one i'm wondering about more so.
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Pictures of the 22" Ballistic, much the same configuration as the 21" Ballistic.
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I'll pull prop and give it to you at a breakfest meet ...
It's not to bad.
How much is it worth on CL ?
It a Torq-Flo (Flo-Torq ?) hub.
Steve told me which special sauce to get for my gel / flake ...
Forgot what it was ...
Steve .... Help ...
Best to give me the whole run down again ... then I have it to reread when I forget again ...
Is this the buffer ?
http://www.harborfreight.com/interests/boating/7-inch-variable-speed-polisher-sander-92623.html
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Don't sell it until you compare it to other props. There is a 20" Laser for sale on Craigslist now. A 20" Laser would go from $125 to $225, depending on condition, whether it has the round interchangable plastic vent plugs, time of year, and seller's estimate of worth.
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Ya ... bad time of year to try selling props ...
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Is this the buffer ?
http://www.harborfreight.com/interests/boating/7-inch-variable-speed-polisher-sander-92623.html
That's what I have Gregg. No real complaints...motor smells bad (underpowered) after a bit of work...but it hasn't died yet.
I got mine for $29 from them...
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I can wait till it gos on sale ... I got 6 months till summer ...
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Start with washing the entire boat and then tape off with blue painters tape the gunnel G/C sticker. Start buffing using a wool pad and (perfect-It II rubbing compound) part number 05973- on low to med speed. It may take 2 times with the rubbing compound. After you have gone over the whole boat change out your wool pad for a polishing pad either cotton or foam and buff some more using (Finesse-It II finishing material) part #05928 on med speed. If you have compressed air and a blow gun it works well to unclog wool or cotton pads from build up of compound. 2 coats of high quality wax and your all set!!
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Thanks Steve ...
Saved it so I won't lose it ...
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Strange how it is you Merc boys have such good luck with Ballistic props. For some reason they don't seem to work so good on OMC motors. Wonder why?
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I can wait till it gos on sale ... I got 6 months till summer ...
Gregg if you want to save yourself some money your always welcome to use my Makita.
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That would be great Kip.
My underware drawer saving account is getting pretty low !
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Sister in Law got me some 3M cleaner & wax by mistake so thought I'd give it a try...
Cleaned up OK ...
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Gregg, Lookin Good!
I used this stuff. They sell it at Napa's. I had a hard time finding 3M marine compounds. I suppose you could get it at marinas. Sure is PRICEY! Anyway, This stuff worked great on the V172.
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t124/lincolnman1969/Boat/P1100251.jpg)
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Gregg,
these boats have an extraordinarily tuff clear... my suggestion (and only that, as I know opinions run strong in this area) is to go to Harbor Freight, get some packs of 500 & and 1000 grit wetsand paper, get the boat clean, hand sand it with 500 grit wet (wrap the paper around your hand, these boats are not square/straight), then 1000 grit wet, then buff it with medium compound, then fine compound. then wax. the clear will definately take 500 grit, no doubt. and skipping to 1000 grit and then medium compound skips alot of steps without sacrificing results. as long as you finish with a fine compound. try these steps in a small area (only takes a few minutes of each). I'm no expert by any means, but results are results, my CVZ is proof, that thing felt like sandpaper when I got it. just trying to help...
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Hallberg Marine has alot of 3M products. They also have a catalog.
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I think almost anything works. A little Info, there's "rubbing Compound". That's the heavy cut stuff. be careful ya can over do it. Then "polishing compound" that's to get the real shine, then there's "Glazing compound" that's to spiff it up for a show or something. 3M is good stuff, I use Meguiars because it's like an endless list of just what you want. http://www.meguiarsdirect.com/product_list.do?q=polish&promoCode=MEGFGS49WEBPAYPC&gclid=CJr_jfrT4asCFTADQAodt0JBOg
Here's my sanding stuff. I use the DA (with new gel 180, then 320 dry) for old gel 1000, and 1400 wet. I love these little foam blocks. They're hook and loop (Velcro)
(http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh181/50sflash/DSC00964Medium.jpg)
Here's my buffing stuff, A wool pad for rubbing (normally called "compound") Black foam pad for polish, white pad for glaze. Yep it makes a diffefence
(http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh181/50sflash/DSC00966Medium.jpg)
This is a small pad for the DA to use with the magic stuff
(http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh181/50sflash/DSC00967Medium.jpg)
(http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh181/50sflash/DSC00968Medium.jpg)
Ya don't need all this stuff, but I'm lazy
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After Rich posted about the oil tank sight glass problem, I pulled covers and started looking around ...
Look like lack of cleaning with old oil dripping off cables, wires and oil lines, so I started wiping every thing down with a rag and oil absorbant pads.
The oil line between oil tank and pump fell apart in my hands !
Dumped a pint or two of Walmarts finest 2 cycle oil all over garage floor before I could get a container under it ...
Thought it just came off the pump nipple at first ...
It broke in two and split down the middle ...
WOW ... That was a close call ... Glad it didn't happen on the Sunday run on the St.Croix !
Sight tube looks like new ...
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Wex
The finish is in pretty good shape, dirty from not being wash in five years, but not like sand paper.
The above pictures of rear deck were done with cleaner/wax and my hand !
Gonna try a figure out what Jerry just said ...LOL
Jerry
The "Perfect-It II" that Steve posted comes in "Fine", "Medium" and "Course" , he gave me the part # for Medium.
That would be the "Rubbing Compound" your talking about...
The "Finesse-It II finishing" would be the "Polishing compound" your talking about.
I like 3M stuff because my Sister-in-Law works there and get it for cheap ... Well cheaper ...
I've used StarBright "Liquid Rubbing Compound - Medium" ( http://www.starbrite.com/productdetail.cfm?ID=1429&ProductCat=Marine&ProductSCat=Marine%20Polishes&ProductSSCat=Rubbing%20Compounds )
before and it worked pretty good on an old Marquie Tri-Hull.
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Yes, Gregg, good you discovered the weak oil line. Does your Merc have an audible warning? Are you planning on disconnecting the oil premix feature?
Gregg, there is no reason your MPH should not be in the mid 50's range. Bet we can find a better prop.
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He has a 20p on it now and it over revs, I think we need a prop testing day!!! I'm ordering my tach tomarrow!
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Steve I have an extra tach that will work with your outboard. I got it just to verify that my tach was accurate. let me know if you are interested. It's free! it has a light tan face and is pretty simple but new.
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Cool! I will have to make trip out of it, maybe I will grab my buddies bike and go for a ride. I will be gone this weekend but the next weekend I will be in town, meet up with you then maybe?
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" Does your Merc have an audible warning?"
Yes
" Are you planning on disconnecting the oil premix feature? "
No
" He has a 20p on it now and it over revs "
Max rpm's is 5250 ... I'm runnin' 5600 with the 20P Laser II.
" Gregg, there is no reason your MPH should not be in the mid 50's range. "
I'd be happy with low 50's ... She's a hand full now !
" I think we need a prop testing day!!! "
YEP ! we sure do !
First time out (St.Croix on Sunday) I was looking down at the tach and only seeing about 4900 rpm's ...
Thought it was kind of low ...
Slowed at the Kinni " No Wake " and looked at it again ... 0 rpm's ... HHHUUUMMMmmm.....
YEP ! ... I was lookin' at the speedo ... New boat ... cut me some slack ...
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After Rich posted about the oil tank sight glass problem, I pulled covers and started looking around ...
Look like lack of cleaning with old oil dripping off cables, wires and oil lines, so I started wiping every thing down with a rag and oil absorbant pads.
The oil line between oil tank and pump fell apart in my hands !
I did tell you to check the clear oil hoses, they ALL go bad and fall apart. I wasn't just referring to the sight-glass hose on the side of the tank. Just make sure they're bled of air when you install the new hoses.
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" bled of air when you install the new hoses."
Was a warning in the manual about that, but not how to do it ...
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I think the instructions call for pumping the throttle full open numerous times to pump oil through the oil pump until the hose going to the fuel pump is full. I choose another method. The hose from the tank to the pump is easy, just let it fill with oil from the tank before pushing it onto the oil pump nipple. The small hose going from the oil pump to the fuel line or fuel pump is a little harder, fill it with an eye dropper and then reconnect it to the fuel line, or fuel pump, whichever style your engine has.
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Cool! I will have to make trip out of it, maybe I will grab my buddies bike and go for a ride. I will be gone this weekend but the next weekend I will be in town, meet up with you then maybe?
You got my number! Anytime works.
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Wex
The finish is in pretty good shape, dirty from not being wash in five years, but not like sand paper.
The above pictures of rear deck were done with cleaner/wax and my hand !
Gonna try a figure out what Jerry just said ...LOL
good deal Gregg, yes, different pads for different compounds like Jerry said, I would say if you have no discoloration in the clear (like a yellowing) and the finish is smooth then it's all about compounds, but if it has any texture to it, or mild discoloring, maybe hand wetsand it all down with 1000 grit, then a medium compound buff, then a polish or finish compound. I would say if you think the color might be off by even a little bit, try wetsanding a small area. it won't shine like it will when it's all compounded and buffed, but the difference in color should be easily seen. hopefully you've got a "polish and wax" finish and don't have to deal with all that! ;D
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The oil pump it's self should have a bleeder screw, if it does have the oil lines hooked up and make sure when you use zip ties use the raidious zip ties- very important for a tight seal. In the manual it states that any time you service the oil injection system you should pre-mix 50:1, I would use a portable fuel tank for that rather than mixing up what is in the permanent tank. When your done bleeding the oil pump then hook up the portable of pre-mix run in a test tank and manualy lift the arm on the oil pump and watch the oil travel threw the lines if they are clear or just wait for the heavy smoke then your done bleeding the system, hook your regular fuel line back up and your done.
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I'm gonna have to remember that! ;)
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Thanks Steve & Rich ...
Was told to go to a snowmoble dealer and get the fuel / oil line from them, stuff is the best there is, even stays flexable to 30 below zero and last for years.
Wex was right, needs to be wet sanded, did some last night and came out pretty good. missed a few spots on edges ...
After pulling off the stern light & cleats, the color under them is a bluer blue then the deck I wet sanded and buffed, even tryed some wax to see if that would help ...
Will the color come back with more wet sanding or has sun and age dulled it ?
One of the pictures below kind of shows it ...
( front deck under bow light )
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Goldie has the same problem...don't believe that can be brought back. I wet sanded as deep as I dared and its just faded. I suspect some properly tinted orange clear could get me closer...but luckily...its all covered up. My top side is definitely extra Goldish compared to the bottom orange copper.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-qtjWi3zIrao/Tmg_iFMPNMI/AAAAAAAAHOs/qdswrh5TLv4/s640/DSCF0326.JPG)
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Lookin good Gregg!
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Its all relative Gregg - once you get the whole topside shining, no one will ever notice the difference...so I wouldn't sweat it. Like Jason said...its looking great!
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OK ... Guess the only one that knows is me ... well and you guys ... LOL
Have to go over it again tonight and catch the spots I missed...
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It'll look awesome! And remember some of our boats don't have awesome gold flake so no matter what you've for that going for ya! ;)
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Looks great Greg. If anyone complains about the color under your cleats being nicer than the shine on your deck, make them swim back to shore!! ;D
Aint, no body got no business looking under your cleats!!!
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I think you might have the hang of it. Which means yes gregg, I will let you do the same to the intimidator. when do you want me to drop out off?
All joking aside, it's looking good.
(https://picasaweb.google.com/114746751124947771193/Intimidator?authkey=Gv1sRgCPmR_dultLm9Bw#5661753322562178658)
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Aint no body got no business looking under your cleats!!!
Agreed. Very personal area, for me at least ...
Yo Gregg if you have not already done so. Give that boat a good hard scrubbing with ~105 deg water & a strong detergent. Let it dry'n wipe it down with 'preps all' etc. Then start wet sanding/polishing. Otherwise yer just clogging up the paper with dirt & old wax ...?
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OK ... Guess the only one that knows is me ... well and you guys ... LOL
I'd bet there wasn't a Carlson at the meet in Red Wing this year that was any different. Good grief Gregg if it was too perfect you'd be afraid to pull it out of the garage! ;D
Just be glad the blue flake on yours hasn't taken on a green hue like the blue flake on my CVX18.
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Aint, no body got no business looking under your cleats!!!
That's like checking under yer kilt.
(http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh181/50sflash/cid_00a001c6dc00f70330d06973590ADDF9G341.jpg)
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Gregg,
yeah, my cvz is the same (original color under the cleats is different) but still a dramatic difference after wetsanding, it took some of the "yellow" out of the faded clear. But no, not likely that it would come back to exactly original, some of that sunfade goes all the way through the clear, but, like you've seen, there is room for much improvement, and, you'll be restoring one heck of a shine! Considering no one will realize it's a little off the original blue, and that the shine will be awesome, what more could you ask for? ;D it's looking like all said and done it should be beautiful.
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Wet sand. medium compound, cleaner/wax, wax ...
Not getting the deep shine, so need to get the finishing compound ...
Color is very close to original under cleat/bow light now.
The under deck supports are a nightmare, there low spot in deck, have to look at deck from other angles to see them and rebuff area ...
Color is very close to original behind windshield and bow light ...
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Looks great Gregg. The difference between before and after is incredible! I expected it to shine up but it looks much deeper and the flake is really popping now.
Also, West Marine in Stillwater has a good variety of 3m products. Not cheap however. Fairly close to you too.
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Great progress Gregg. There is always the learning curve on how to polish - even props - the order of things, which products are better, shortcuts, efficient ways. Keep at it, it looks good. The lines from the deck supports which make for uneven surfaces are a given.
Craigslist ad for man getting out of boat cleaning and waxing business:
http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/boa/2650953309.html
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After it's all rubbed out this stuff is awsome
(http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh181/50sflash/DSC00968Medium.jpg)
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Jeff swang by with his box of goody's and wet sanded, compounded, finished buffed and waxed my boat today ...
Thank buddy ya made it look easy ...I owe ya lunch at the next river run ..
It looks pretty sharp now ...
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Wow! Looks great Gregg!
(Is it just the pictures, or is the trailer bowed? And is it supposed to be that way?)
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The trailer is a peice of garbage, Gregg plans on replacing. That buff and polish job turned out really nice. Looking good Gregg!
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Holy CatFish Gizzards !
that baby looks GOOD ! now we know something else Jeff is good at.
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There's an original glastron trailer for sale in Appleton, WI...just saying :)
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love the duct tape on the buffer cord. Been there done that. Looks good, I wouldn't want to do it without my DA though.
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Jeff also repositioned boat on trailer, was back 7 1/2 inches to far.
Was a tilt trailer and was welded at the joint, my wife wants a new one .... LOL
The gel / flake look even better then pictures show ... might even be as good as Steve's and Jason's CV's ... MAYBE ...
" Wow! Looks great Gregg! "
You mean " Wow! Looks great Jeff! "
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Beautiful.
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Wow! That does look great guys! Better than new! :o
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Time to change your profile picture.
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Few more ...
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One word... WOW!
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Hey Jeff,
You have just been nominated to "clean" up the intimidator as soon as I'm done with the dirty work. Thanks in advance. ;D
Looks great guys.
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Again...really looks great Gregg! Keep the glamor shots coming!
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Tim
He get it done faster if you stay out of his way ...
He could have had the whole boat done if I wasn't there helping him ... LOL
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Gregg, looks awesome... congratulations!
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love the duct tape on the buffer cord. Been there done that. Looks good, I wouldn't want to do it without my DA though.
HA! Dito!
Looks awesome Gregg! Now, don't put her away that clean. We need to see that shine on the water and get some calender shots!
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Sweet Gregg, and way to go Jeff! ;) Betch your feeling better about what you paid for it - eh Gregg!.....LOL
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Thanks guys ...
And THANKS JEFF !
Has a long way to go to be perfect, don't think it ever will be ...
It's a daily driver ..
Jason
If weekends nice I'll be out !
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Has a long way to go to be perfect, don't think it ever will be ...
Ah don't be to hard on yourself Gregg. Nothing's ever 'perfect'? We have a saying at the shop, "We strive for perfection but sometimes arrive at mediocraty ..." Boat looks great from here!
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I sometimes wonder what I'd do if I didn't have the boat to constantly tinker with...its my therapist & stress reliever all in one.
Curious if it fits in the garage Gregg?
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I sometimes wonder what I'd do if I didn't have the boat to constantly tinker with...its my therapist & stress reliever all in one.
It's obvious you need more boats.
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You'll laugh at this...my son wants a 'Ford Exp/Mercury LN7' (anyone remember those?)...so...I'm guessing we'll have our hands full working on that...which works too!
(And yes...I do need another boat...that's my 'garage warming gift to me' when we get into a different house in a few years. Figure Goldie will be 100% complete by then.
***Wow...topic change unintended***
Back to Gregg's boat...sorry Gregg!
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Wet sanded, compounded and FI2ed the spots we missed and compounded and FI2ed the other side of the boat.
The one (missed spot) on the passinger side came out nice Jeff.
Even got some of the bottom with medium compound.
Jeff ...
Did you FI2 the drivers side bottom (of rub rail) ?
Doing the deck is FUN ! ... Doing the sides SUCKS ! ! !
Doran
Boat / Motor / Trailer are about the same as the V-156 ... 20 feet 6 inches.
I have back problems ... so sittin' in the lazy boy chair is my stress reliever ...
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Wow!!! looks awsome! Looks like I need to bust out my buffer this spring to keep up with Gregg.
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Got the cleats and bow light shined up and put back on, pulled the windshield and wet sanded around rim / edge.
Flake on dash, behind windshield is same color as deck, or very very close, but now flake on other dash surfaces is kind of green/faded ...
Don't want to pull out trim yet, so will live with it for the time being...
Looks weird with out windshield ...
I'll post some pictures tomorrow.
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Cleaned dash. compounded and FI2ed dash.
Colors (dash to deck) pretty close.
Weird with out windshield ...
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Looks so good Gregg! You're doing one heck of a great job!
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Cleaned dash. compounded and FI2ed dash.
What is this? Need more details. Looks awesome!
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The black dash or the flake on dash ?
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Black dash.
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Buckeye 2002
http://www.stiglersupply.com/catalog/catalogproductdetail.aspx?productid=BY-5564-0600-CS
I'm on my second bottle in 30 years, stuff works GREAT !
Reason why the V-156's interior looked like new ...
Only had to do it once a year ... Lasts and lasts and lasts ...
Stay away from Armor-All ...
Doug said this stuff works just as good and is easier to get localy ...
http://www.303products.com/
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Gregg, looks awesome. Is the RPM gauge tilted to the left a little? Do you have the oil injection tubes yet?
Glastron CV16 that needs engine, in Shoreview
http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ram/boa/2631171628.html (http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ram/boa/2631171628.html)
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Thought it was just the picture, went out to look and "Yes" it tilted.
I'll fix it next time i'm under there, could have twisted it when I was fixing steering helm.
Got the oil line but was waiting for the zip ties, might get to motor later in the week.
Want to clean interior, buff transom and get windshield back on before doing motor.
100 things to do, plus house stuff ...
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I talked to him about 10 min. after he posted the blue CV.
He said transom was solid, sent pictures and there a large steel plate on transom, plus soft spot in floor.
I could use some of his parts and trailer ...
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Wonder what the interior looks like?
The CVX16 is still for sale in Forest Lake with price lowered to $4,500
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Looks OK, little faded.
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Windshield back on, arms just on for pictures, still need to be straighten.
Plexi cleaned up OK, will give it more Buckeye 2002 in a week.
Has crack in one corner and other issues ...
Got oil injection hoses, zip ties and picked up one gal. of Merc Premium Plus oil for $37.28 before taxes ... Is that good Dave ?
Still have to clean seats / interior yet, then I'll start on motor ... forgot gear lube & Seafoam ... thought I had more then I did ...
Will do impeller in spring.
Sara help me put on windshield and front cleats.
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Looks badazz Gregg! Windshield cleaned up nice. Bummer 'bout the crack. Deck looks killer.
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Looks very good Gregg. The Premium Plus Mercury oil is $26.95 per gallon at Fleet Farm. I have secured Premium Plus Mercury oil at about $24.00 from an out of state source, so the Fleet Farm price is good.
They also sell the Mercury Power Tune and Storage Seal at Fleet Farm. For gear lubricate, use the Johnson/Evinrude stuff - XHP stuff as it is superior to the Mercury stuff in a Walleye Bass Boat article - more resistant to water dilution and other qualities. Mercury stuff is not bad if you choose it.
Use degreaser on inside of motor and hose off with water.
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WOW... I payed way to much !
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Take it back for a refund on your way to Fleet Farm where you should stock up for next year.
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Amsoil. You'll never go back.
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I'll have to look in to it ...
They should have some for injection systems.
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Amsoil. You'll never go back.
Ya agreed. I'd never run my Johnson above 6000 with cheap oil.
Gregg your CV looks great. Once you really get some seat time I'd love to hear your impression of the hull differences between it and your old v156.
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I'll have to look in to it ...
They should have some for injection systems.
Yes they do. Red Rooster Auto Parts in Bloomington stocks it.
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Amsoil. You'll never go back.
This is another one of those hotly debated topics. I did run Amsoil Sabre 100:1 in Bluebell (I mixed it at 90:1). I did go back to Mercury 3+ under advice from the mechanic I trust down here.
That could have been the reason that the 175 Evinrude was now a 235 Johnson Powerhead...the guy ran Amsoil Sabre (at 100:1) for as long as he could remember and the Evinrude just "wore out"...low compression in the cyls, etc. Nothing broken, just had low compression across the board...in the 90's from what I remember.
I checked compression on the Johnson 235, and ran Amsoil 90:1 for a few tanks. I then talked to my guy, and promptly switched back. There just aren't enough guys running it down here for me to trust it in the real world. I'm sure others will chime in that love it...but there's nothing wrong with the tried & true manufacturers oils running in millions of outboards. (They just smoke a little more...)
Bluebell's previous owner took immaculate care of it, and it had light use, so I'm suspicious of the Sabre. YMMV.
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We debated this issue a few months ago. I researched the topic and opinions of outboard motor engine rebuilders. It is like which is better, a Camero or a Mustang. No one is going to change their minds. I know what I will continue to use.
David
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Yeah, I'm not trying to open that can of worms.
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Got interior cleaned and Buckeyed ... MAN that's an ugly blue ... Looks pretty good clean though ...
Started on windshield arms but didn't get to far ...
Fuzzbutt
It's a hand full !
Would like to try a CVX now see how it handles.
I'll use the Merc PP oil for now ...
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Gregg, would you consider having Paul M reupholster your interior? Might cost $1,000 or more though.
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I run Quicksilver synthetic blend at a lil over 50:1. No problemo. $27 bucks at China Mart.
Yo Gregg. Hope this doesn't sound crazy but mebbe you could tone down the "too blue" interior with a few sponge dabs here & there of black vinyl paint?
Before anybody crucifies me, vinyl paint has a bad rap because people try to spray it over roached out vinyl. However if the material is in good shape to begin with? I've seen some purty awesome results.
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Gregg
Tell me about what you did to the windscreen. Was it scratched?
The one on my 175 is horrible and I am not sure what I am going to do to it. I tried some scratch remover made for this andit made it feel smooth. I cant feel the scratches so they must be internal. Then it will have to be replaced.
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Ross,
The '71 Crestflite had a tempered glass windshield. If your's is plastic it has probably been replaced. It shouldn't be too hard to get new glass cut for it, three flat panels.
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Ross
Windshield is in pretty good shape as far as scratches, but has the one crack and what Jeff said was "Crazing" .
Hundreds of little 1/16 inch long cracks in two spot on windshield.
Gave it two heavy coats of Buckeye 2002 but didn't seem to help ...
I'll have to make one some day, as per Jerry's " Flip It " thread.
Dave & Doug
Vinyl is in OK shape, have to live with it for a year or three ...
Problem is seat bases are rotted and cracked, I could pull staples and covers, make new wood bases and recover for cheap ... BUT ...
Seat foam is $$$$$ !
Maybe $60 to $80 per seat ... Sound about right Doug ?
At work we replace 3 or 4 cab seats a week, so might be able to get some for free, but would have to glue two peices together ...
Cut into one today that was in dumpster and thats how the seat company did it ... so must work ...
Got lines replaced and started cleanin' motor, hundreds of little nooks and crannies so slow going ...
Not havin' much luck straghting windshield arms ... Got one side's metal bar pounded out half way ... Me holding arm and Carol pounding bar !
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On those windsheild side bars if you can get access to a press it will help, it would be a good idea to use wood blocks and towels to prevent scratching. take your time doing it!
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Yep ... Thats whats taking so long ... being careful not to wreck arm ....
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Gregg, use degreaser on the inside of the motor. Spray on, wait 15 minutes, and brush off with different sizes of brushes - paintbrush, toothbrush, and smaller brush. Redo if neccessary. Keep the stuff out of the carbs.
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Paul is being evicted from his house by the first of next month, so he's got big troubles ....
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Interior is clean ...
Working on cleaning motor ...
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Looking great! Going to need sunglasses to look at that boat next summer!!
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Dave & Doug
Vinyl is in OK shape, have to live with it for a year or three ...
Problem is seat bases are rotted and cracked, I could pull staples and covers, make new wood bases and recover for cheap ... BUT ...
Seat foam is $$$$$ !
Maybe $60 to $80 per seat ... Sound about right Doug ?
Sounds a lil pricey Gregg. We recently switched foam suppliers and are paying 2/3 of what we had been. I can get a full sheet (54 x 82) of 3" delivered for about $90 bucks? While we're on the subject there's no reason not to salvage foam, long as it's not turning to dust it can be rejuvinated with a steamer.
Nothing wrong with piecing/gluing it together either. However if you're using smooth vinyl the glue seam may transmit through the material. This isn't a problem when using a pleated or textured vinyl but can haunt you with smooth.
Dunno what method yer using to straighten the w/s rails but massaging them, blacksmith style, with a rubber mallet might help?
Boat looks great! Take care.
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I did a search on Google for " High Density Urethane Foam " and found Sears (and other) had it for about $50 to $90.
Not even sure how much I would need ...
If I salvage foam from seats in dumpster (seats are in very good shape, think the air ride thingy is messed up) I could put a cotton battin over foam to hide / cover glued seams.
I'm pretty sure the foam in seats now is the original foam and in poor shape.
This would be a hold over intil I can afford a new interior.
I'm trying to pound out the bar that straighen aluminium arm and not having much luck ...
Don't think arm will straighen out with bar in there ...
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Gregg... sweet CV-16, love the Blue Metalflake. Congratulations! I wanna see a video of that thing flying down the river all trimmed up!
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lookin' REAL good Gregg... that is one clean Mariner! when I pulled the hood off the Evinrude 175 on my CVZ while looking it over for purchase a few years ago, I found it was real clean just like yours, original stickers intact, greased everywhere it should be (dealer serviced every year) and I held back the smile, but my first thought to myself when I saw that was "yup, I'll take it...". You got a good one!
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Gregg, on the aluminum arm, there are bending companies, such as Linders Specialties in St. Paul, that our company uses to bend metal. They could roll your aluminum piece through the rollers and make it straight. Call me if you want me to find out if they could do it and the cost, if any. Our company also has a bender that might work. We would try a test piece first.
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Buckeye 2002? What is that?
Crazing, yup thats what I have and I think they will need to be replaced...someday.
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Buckeye 2002
http://www.stiglersupply.com/catalog/catalogproductdetail.aspx?productid=BY-5564-0600-CS
It helped the crazing a little ...
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Dave
Arms are U channels with a metal bar in center of the U to add support.
Metal bars are not bent but U arms are, so I have to hold arm and put pressure on it to pound metal bar out, while rapped in rags so as not to scratch arm.
Carol is hitting her hand with hammer, I'm letting arm slide off wood block and smashin' my fingers, and bar is only moving a little at a time ...
Will be one of thoughs job that we'll look back on and laugh ... Ain't laughing now ...
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Found a fuel filter behind oil tank ...
It's for the " Accelerator pump" , Tee's off the connector assembly on front of motor.
Wish I found it before filling oil tank with a gallon of oil ...
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Dave
" use the Johnson/Evinrude stuff - XHP stuff "
Do you mean " Evinrude HPF PRO " or " Evinrude HPF XR " gearcase lubricant ?
http://shop.evinrude.com/products/343540/Gearcase
Theres a Mobil XHP & a PrimRose XHP grease ...
http://www.primrose.com/content/view/68/28/
http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENGRSMOMobilgrease_XHP_220.aspx
EDIT ...
OK ..... Found web site ...
http://www.bwbmag.com/output.cfm?id=1891729
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Believe you found it Gregg. Summary paragraph from Bass and Walleye Magazine study of lower unit lubricants:
"After closely studying the data, we noticed one lube consistently tested well, and ranked above average in most of the tests. It also demonstrated good lubricating properties in the water dilution tests. That oil is the Evinrude HPF-XR, highly recommended for the boater who wants it all ? good anti-wear characteristics, and no worries about a little water intrusion."
Wish that magazine had not gone out of business - good prop tests and outboard tests.
David
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Got rod out of windshield arm and pounded it back to stright today, next one should be much easier ... I hope ...
Got a system now ... LOL
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Looks great Gregg. Glad you found a way to straighten it. Is Carol retired now from the boat restoration business?
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Carol & Sara are pressed into service when ever more then two hands are needed ...
Need to get Jeff back so I can get it done faster ... LOL
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Got windshield back on ...
Motor needs a few more hours of cleaning.
I'll pickle the motor for the winter next week ... Maybe ...
Would like to get splashwell and transom cleaned up before puttin' in corner of garage.
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Shiny!!! ;D
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Awsome Gregg!!! That cv looks sweet, I knew that it would shine out NICE! Nice job.
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The name of this thread should be "Boatless to Beautimous"! She's looking fantastic Gregg, have you got a felt-lined cover for it yet? ;) (I'm sure there's a new age fabric better suited than felt, but you know what I mean, right?)
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She shined up real nice Gregg. Windshield frame looks fine from here.
Far as indoor car/boat covers go nothing beats good ole fashioned flannel.
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Drained gear case today ...
Happy to see no water ... But plug had some metal shaving on it and a little more black gunk then I would have like to see ...
Bet impeller is in poor shape ...
I'll have a look at it in early spring.
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Gregg, did you fill the lower unit with grease? I would let the lower unit drain for a few days just to let all the grease flow out, even tilt the motor to get it all out, then fill with grease.
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Put in the left over Evinrude gear lube from last years change, maybe half full.
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Carol & Sara are pressed into service when ever more then two hands are needed ...
Need to get Jeff back so I can get it done faster ... LOL
Winters coming/here, whats your deadline Gregg? ;D
I am blown away with how that finish looks now compared to when you got it. Did you end up wet sanding? I suppose I could read back further but I am getting lazier as it gets darker and colder. Think my blood is thiiccckeeening up, kinda like grease! :P
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Boat is ready to push into corner of garage ...
Season's over !
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Season is over.
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Season is over.
David, is that you under there? ;D
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On Halloween I dressed like a Mercury on a outboard motor stand covered for winter storage. LOL.
I had to sell two things on Craigslist to make room for the Mercury in the garage. The workbench sold for $0 in the free section, and the minibike sold for $20 (with my son's permission).
David
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Got some small things done to trailer, just incase I have to use it before gettin' new/used one.
Got a deck CV sticker and a dash CV16 emblem on the way.
Should get it out of the corner of garage today.
I hope ....
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Gregg, your stainless steel black powdercoated plate to cover the radio hole, and the black plastic caps to fill in the holes of the ski pole are ready. I could mail them or drop them by.
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No rush Dave...
I've got lottsa other stuff to do on it !
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She's out of the corner now.
Got a millon small thing to do, and a half millon BIG thing to do ...LOL
Hope to have her at least runnin by end of week.
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Whoo-Hoo! Lemme know if you need a hand with anything since I'm just around the corner!
Might have to be after 8 though what with the little boys and all!
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Thanks for the offer Josh ...
Most of it is just little thing , new fuel lines, bulb, fittings, bleed oil injection, seafoam cyl., battire hold down, speedo tubing, get horn working, put stern light back on, etc, etc, etc.
Last owner let it "Slide" for about 5 years.
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"battire hold down"
What are you...French now? :D
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Wii ...
Just a poor spellier ... LOL
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Steve ..
How is your battire held in ...
With a strap ?
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Wow Gregg your CV is looking great. Like new.
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It's a "Five footer" ...
Looks perfect from five feet away ... LOL
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In case you really want to know, its "Oui"
Thats about all I know after 2 years of high school French. :P
You said "bleed oil injection" ? What is that about and is that something I should have been doing for the last 7 years ???
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Answer is on page 5 of this thread Ross ...
You don't need to bleed yours ... but you should check lines ...
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Spent most of Sunday under dash, sorting out the rat nest of wires.
P.O. ran radio & cig. lighter power off gauges, bow light wasn't working but filament was fine, twisted bulb out of socket and glass/filament came out but brass socket stayed in ...
Ran new speedo tube, old one had splices and eight holes in transom, all screws had wet wood on them ... CRAP !
Put in a battire hold down strap, snapped the cheap plastic mount right off ... CRAP !
Today ...
Drained fuel tank of fuel of unkown age, hook up a temp. fuel line to suck pre mix fuel out of gas can. Replaced oil injection lines last year, need to prime.
Picked up a bow light bulb ... Works great ... No sure I got colors on right side ...
If I'm sitting in the drivers seat, the RED is on my left and GREEN is on my right .... Right ?
Horn still not working ... Gauge lights dim when I hit the horn button and theres a clicking ...
I'm not going back under there for a day or two ... I still hurt in weird places after spending hours under there on Sunday ...
Dave got me some hole plugs for holes from ski bar, and a sweet cover for radio hole ...
He also sold my Lazer II !
Thanks Dave !
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RIGHT! Green is on the Starboard side (right).
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Thanks Jason ...
I'm not mad at ya any more for the April fools thing ...
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Port wine is red
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Got a bunch of little stuff done ...
Got radio hole covered ... Thanks again Dave ...
Eight holes in transom sealed, more motor cleaning, one fuel line/filter left to replace, should be done today ...
New problem ...
The steering connector has a lot of play in it, have to take it apart to see what's going on with it ...
Not sure which part, mount/bolt/swivel have the slop in them ...
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Got the transom wet sanded/compounded/FI-IIed/waxed, motors about as clean as it'll get, got as much out of fuel tank as possable ...
Buffed windshield with FI-II with good results, wish I'd done inside of windshield when it was off deck ...
Wet sanded a problem spot on deck with 600 grit and had very good results, will be doing other dull spots latter this week.
I WANNA GO BOATIN' ! ! !
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Looks awesome Gregg!
Helped a buddy and his dad take his new houseboat from Stillwater to St. Paul yesterday so was on the water for about 8 hours. Actually saw Jason fly by in his CV-16ss in Prescott!
Can't wait to get out in my Glastrom either!
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Sound's like you guys had fun !
Hope Jason posts some pictures ...
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Gregg, I could have tapered the insert plate to retain the same distance from the top and bottom across the entire panel.
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Looks great Greg, glad to see it coming along well. Make sure you have a good ground under that dash.( I am sure you know that ) I had the same problem with the starflite, but I had to run another ground wire to fix the problem.
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Gregg! Looks better than new! nice job.
Looks like you got room to raise that motor a couple holes too!!
Yea, I was on the St Croix Saturday in the CV16SS. More an endurance test and first fun of the year in that boat. put 52 miles on it. Ran from hudson to treasure island and back pretty much nonstop. 52 miles and about 10 gallons. 5mpg averaging 4000 RPM's! I am happy with that.
You guys need to get your boats out. Best time is now. All the big wave makers are all still shrink wrapped!
My only picture:
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t124/lincolnman1969/Boat/IMG_0361.jpg)
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Dave
Radio hole cover looks good, but having some problems shining up the CV16 emblem ...
Finnish is kind of "Bubbles" and not responding to compound, 3M pads, 600 grit, cussing & swearing ... LOL
Jason
I think I'll wait until I replace floor/transom to raise motor.
Looks like a "Can of worm", PO or shop left or put bolts thru old Merc motor holes, you can see where bolt heads are pushing on transom glass under motor bracket and washers on inside of transom spin freely, transom still feels solid but don't wanna open "The Can Of Worms" ...
PO or shop also just put screws for speedo pilot, tube mounts, where speedo tube gos thru transom, into transom with out any silicon.
All had wet wood on them when I took them out ...
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PO or shop left or put bolts thru old Merc motor holes, you can see where bolt heads are pushing on transom glass under motor bracket and washers on inside of transom spin freely.......
I thought that looked funny.
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Jason, Ya got room in your Glastron/Carlson cave to redo a floor & transom this fall ?
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Pulled the CV out of the garage and fired her up ...
With the cyl.full of Seafoam and hooked up to a gas can of 2cycle mix ... She smoked like a forest fire ... LOL
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Looks beautiful from all angles Gregg. Your efforts are being rewarded. I love the two tone blue colors. All we need is a stainless steel prop. I hope Johnson's and Mariner's and Mercury's get along together.
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" I hope Johnson's and Mariner's and Mercury's get along together. "
Think it'll be more like ... The battle of the 115's ... LOL
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Looks Great Greg !
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Sweeeeeeeet!
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Ya looks killer Gregg! The blue trim stripe(s) on the motor really make it pop?
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Did half the boat today ... Buff & Shine ...
Other half tomorrow and some work on seats ,,,
She lookin' much better, But I'm not ...
LOL ...
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Got the "Foot deep mirror shine" now ...
and new seat bases ...
and a sore back ...
LOL...
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Wow! Very nice. Are the new seat bases going into the existing seats? Is Paul helping you?
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"Are the new seat bases going into the existing seats?"
Yep ... New seats are in the future !
Splashwell tomorrow ...
And get Shawn's buffer back to him ...
Thanks Shawn !
That buffer's worth it's weight in gold ...
That FI2 is weird stuff, it you go to long it kind of "burns" and ya have to go back to the 3000 wet sand, compound, and FI2.
Did it in three spots ...
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Your CV looks fantastic Gregg, very nice work!
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After doing Tim's with 1500 then 3000 then compound, FI2 ... I had to redo mine ...
The blue is another shade darker and is pretty close to areas that were covered by cleats and bow & stern ights.
It should be very close to the shine on Steve & Jasons CV's.
Dave ...
Paul will help with seats.
I talked to him two days ago, he's in very good spirits and thing are starting to come together.
Sounds like he likes his new job, and the house deal is better, he'll have at least a year to get loan.
He was pretty stressed ...
With good reason !
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Went to Paul's last night to have new foam put in old vinyl seat covers on the new seat bases.
Front seats are 3 inch foam and look and feel much better then old broken down foam.
Rear seats we added 1 inch of new foam to old foam and covered wih batting, still to soft but much better then old foam alone.
Will do new foam when I redo vinyl but want to see if the old/new foam build up would work.
Paul makes this stuff look easy, all pucker are smoothed out and seats look pretty good.
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Paul does nice work. I am sure that helped in selling my V-153 when people saw the quality of his upholstery.
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Don (Retro P) or any one that knows any thing ...
Does Hannys have Telaflex rack steering kits in stock ?
Took me two trys to get one for V-156 ... wrong rotery thingy
Will steering wheel fit , any info would be very helpful ...
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Gregg....Hannays should have in stock eveything Teleflex has available either at the retail store or at the warehouse (3 miles away).....to identify would be best to call Joe Hauselden, he will be able to help get the right parts first time. Remember to tell him you are with CGOAMN, it provides a 15 percent discount on parts..........
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When I did my V-156 I had lots of chooses of rotery helms, but after looking thru Telaflex/Hannys parts catalog there is only one style of rack steering, well two one NFB and regular.
I'll call or stop by ...
Thanks Don ...
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Started on it tonight (steering) ...
It's one peice ... See pictures ...
The cable go's thru fiberglass loops in deck so all cables have to be removed so it will fit thru loops, to get it out.
It's also foamed in the side boxes ...shouldn't be to tuff to get out of foam. not sure how to get one of the back panels off ...
Won't be boating this weekend ...
LOL
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Way to go Gregg. This was the first necessary step to get the right prop.
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Got every thing out ...
Now it's off to Hanney's for parts ...
I would never make it as a marine mechanic ... LOL
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First cable/helm didn't work ... Hanney's closes at 3:00, got cable/helm back out of boat at 3:30 .... AAARRRGGGHHH ...
Just like the V-156, first one didn't work ... I'm gettin' pretty good at installin' & removein' steering systems ...LOL
Was in a hurry Don so didn't walk to the back to say "HI" ...
I'll walk back there if your there on Monday.
Picked up a splashwell drain tube and T&H transom support plate, any one have a Merc motor lifting eye and a motor hoist ?
What do you guys use for sealing motor mounts/things mounted thur the transom (sealant, silacone, etc.) ?
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I used 3M 4200 to seal my bolt holes. Works as good as 5200 but 5200 is more of a permanent deal.
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If Don is checking this thread ... does Hannay's carry the black, two-piece splash well drain tubes for 1 inch diameter holes? I can find them in white online, but I'd prefer black ... The black Tracker product comes up at Bass Pro Shops and Cabela's for a 1-1/4 inch hole.
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WetRaider
Go to ...
http://www.hannaysmarine.com/ (http://www.hannaysmarine.com/)
Click on ...
2011 ACC Catalog
Comes up as a PDF, but isn't working for me now ...
Should work, worked this morning ?
Thanks Jason ....
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Did some research ...
NFB clutch (buldge in middle of helm) gets in the way of dash/gauges/mounting stuff, so will have to get a regular system.
No room for a rotary NFB or regular rotary and Xtreme only comes in rotary...
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"Both the Johnson and Evinrude rigging manuals say NOT to use a sealer-adhesive like the 3M 5200. Something like 4200 or BoatLife Life Calk are better choices. LifeCalk will cure even if the wood is wet or if the boat is put in the water right away."
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I do not think Hannays will have a black motorwell tube but probably best to call one of the parts guys and ask (612-781-7411).............We are using Elastomeric Sealant from a company called Sudbury, be sure to read the tube of whatever you are using as alot of silicone will state "not for underwater use" on the back..........I have used the stuff from Sudbury for many years..great stuff, it is in the hannays catalog in tubes or caulk gun cartridges. Yes, if you are at the store by all means come back and say hi. I do not stay around past noon on Saturdays but you can catch me most anytime during the week (this time of year).........Hyper, sorry the first system did not work out.
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I use marine-Tex. Old habits are hard to break when you haven't had a problem.
(http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh181/50sflash/0404_007.jpg)
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Thanks for the link, guys. I couldn't view anything but the main page on that .pdf catalog.
I did find black ones, though. http://www.thmarine.com/products/Aeration-and-Plumbing/Drain-Fittings/Splashwell-Drains/Splash-Well-Drain-Tubes (http://www.thmarine.com/products/Aeration-and-Plumbing/Drain-Fittings/Splashwell-Drains/Splash-Well-Drain-Tubes)
Nobody seemed to have them for sale. I called and was told that the black drain tubes were not sold aftermarket, they were sold only to manufacturers ... and besides, she had a minimum order of $10. Told her I needed two and she said they'd be $5 each. Gave her my payment info and I should have two black transom drain tubes on their way by this afternoon.
Gregg, any luck on your steering? My boat came with a jimmy-rigged hydraulic set up. Too expensive to replace right now. The helm will blow a seal around the shaft and leak a ton of fluid down. There are some wicked kinks in the lines at the motor end, too. Maybe I can get hoses made inexpensively enough ...
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Pick up the steering kit, and everything went very easy ... Hole in dash is oblong so need to make up a small plate to mount the top helm bolts.
WAY less slop ... but might get the clevis kit ... still a little at motor ...
Don
Are you the guy behind the glass at the parts counter ?
Must have been you ... you were on the phone the whole time and I was in a hurry ... again ...
We'll meet up sooner or latter ... maybe on the water !
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Gregg,
hoping this system works out for you, I've done new NFB systems on this size boat and loved them but never a rack. if you don't get torque steer, that'll mean a good alternative for alot of these guys with minimal behind-dash space. after what you experienced with prop testing, I hope it goes straight as an arrow with the hammer down! 8)
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Guess I could have enlarged the hole for the helm and removed the gas gauge for a NFB but took the easy way out ... hope I made the right choice ...
It pretty tight now (steering) only slop is the steering tube to clevis, little bit of play still ... Maybe a bushing ?
I replaced bolts with grade 8, new nylock nuts, new fiber washers, and adjusted out as much play as possible ...
Every thing can be fixed if you throw enough money at it ... LOL
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Gregg, yes, you are looking into the service department and I was the guy with the Blonde (there are still 3 strands mixed in the grey) hair. I spend a lot of time on the phone these days.
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Jeff said you spent all day on the phone ... LOL
Sure is nice not to have to wait two days for parts to come in ...
Jeff said you guy are supplier for the five state area, I think ...
Do you guys carry Merc parts ?
Or just Evinrude/Yamaha ...
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I need a prop Dave !
How about this one ?
Quicksilver Lightspeed stainless steel prop 13 1/2x 22p - $190 (MPLS
http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/boa/3028948661.html (http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/boa/3028948661.html)
" It made my boat much quicker and better to handle but I sold the boat and don't have a use for it anymore. It is designed for smaller fast boats. "
Has every thing I'm lookin" for .... LOL
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Gregg, is your steering fixed and the boat ready to go again? I would suggest that you compare a 21 Ballistic to a 22 Laser II and then decide. The negatives to watch are overrevving with the 21 Ballistic and torque on both of them. I think you will find the torque less on the Ballistic. You are welcome to try the props again on White Bear Lake. I need to go to WBL to see that my 115 HP Johnson has no engine damage from the VRO problem, and to try the two 22 Rakers against each other. Am polishing out the 20 Raker now. The blades get so hot from the polishing wheel that water turns to steam.
Then there is Steve's 21" Rapture
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OK ... Will retry Ballistic & Lazer again.
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I need a prop Dave !
How about this one ?
Quicksilver Lightspeed stainless steel prop 13 1/2x 22p - $190 (MPLS
http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/boa/3028948661.html (http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/boa/3028948661.html)
" It made my boat much quicker and better to handle but I sold the boat and don't have a use for it anymore. It is designed for smaller fast boats. "
Has every thing I'm lookin" for .... LOL
I'd be all over that one Gregg. Same prop that's pushing the Baja to 57, with the bimini up?! Paid a lot more for mine ... Sigh
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I love the river !
Lazer II 22P ...
Full fuel tank ... 51.4 mph
Low fuel ... 52.3 mph
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Looking good Gregg.
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Gregg, we are a dealer for Mercury, Evinrude and Yamaha Outboards as well as Mercruiser and Volvo Sterndrives.......We stock oem parts for all as well as Sierra and Mallory.
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Pretty respectable numbers there Mr. Durden. I can hear Doug screamin' raise it up a couple of holes from down here! LOL You guys have an awesome "support group" going on up there, I'd move up to be a part of it if it didn't get so feakin' cold there in the wintertime. Well that and my job, wife and grandaughers, etc.....you know what I mean. ::)
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Mark
Doug said that on the main CGOA site ... LOL
Winter only lasts 8 months up here ... and NOPE ya never get use to it ... LOL
Thanks Don ...
My closest dealer probably get his parts from you.
Distance is about the same.
15 % discount seals the deal !
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15 % discount seals the deal !
Where is this dealer. I need a new water pump.
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Hanneys ...
Save pic.
Print it and bring it with ya ...
http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=2886.0 (http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=2886.0)
There the distributor for most boat dealers in the 5 state area.
Thank Don for discount !
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Got a bunch of little stuff done yesterday ...
Went to Fleet Farm for oil and finally remembered to get a horn, hooked it up and got the same thing as the old horn.
When I hit the botton (toogle switch) the gauge lights dim and theres a low cluncking noise, but no horn ?
Key on Merc control box need to be turned on for it to work, theres a ground wire leading off some where, it was late so didn't chase power wire.
I'll check wires/connections for corrision. run a power & ground wire from battery, thru switch to horn and see what happens ...
Any one have a better/easier way of checking or had problem before.
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Power from your battery to your switch is probably best option. If you have an opportunity to throw a small fuse box in there, do that ... or even some inexpensive in-line fuses. On 12V systems, it's always best to draw power for accessories straight from your power source, not branched off another service (ignition/trim/etc.) If your lights are dimming when you hit the horn, you're getting too much of a voltage drop.
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I think I would touch the two horn wires(attached to horn) directly to a battery just to make sure it works(even if new)...........Grounds do funny things sometimes.....I do not think normally the horn runs through the ignition circuit........I like your idea of running two new wires.....
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I've never seen a horn wired thru the ignition, that would require the key to be on. I usually throw a small terminal block under the dash and wire power and ground to that from a "hot" source. Then feed the other stuff off of that. Get a terminal block that can be "jumpered" of course.
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When I got the Starflite it did the same exact thing. I ended up getting a fuse panel and mounting it under the dash and running power from the switch(battery connection) to the fuse panel and then ground back to the battery. That solved all my issues. It was a little bit of wire work, but I knew i would have a good power source and good grounds.
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Key has to be on for running/mooring lights to work also.
Fuse panel sounds like a good winter project !
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There should be a Purple wire going to the 12 volt terminal on your Tachometer and other gauges......sounds like someone tapped onto that to power accessories......That boat had to have an accesssory lead(positive and negitive) from the factory.......
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Ya every thing seem to come off the gauges and power must come from control box.
There was a radio and cig./accessorie plug coming off gauges also... but have been removed ...
My V-156 had a power & ground wire coming off battery to running light switch, then to running lights.
That was the only wiring in boat ... LOL
What gauge wire should I use ?
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Depends on your power needs.......I think maybe 12 guage mains from battery to fuse panel(positive and negitive) would support your needs. Positive should have a 20 amp fuseholder or breaker near battery post connection. 16 gauge from fuse panel to switches/accessories etc (I think)............Starflite, what gauge did you use?
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I actually went over kill on it originally. I used 8 gauge wire from the switch to the fuse panel, but I am going to change it to 10 gauge to match the power wire coming to the switch . And then I used the same 8 gauge wire to run back to the battery for the ground.
Here is a picture of my setup, it is only half full. Anything that is connected to it is powered with out the switch turned on.
(http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i387/ban-one_1/0812121448.jpg)
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I'm going to make a cover to go over mine, but here's what it looks like now.
(Cole Hersee makes small circuit breakers that snap in place of fuses, seemed like the way to go?)
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All most missed posts with all the stuff going on ... LOL
Both look very clean and tidy, mine is a rats nest of cut wires and a bad lay out.
All power (runnin lights, horn) come off control box ...
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Hard to see , let alone get at wires for horn switch, but a little wigglin' around got it workin' !
What a wimpy horn ... LOL
Wish floor/transom fix was that easy ...
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Hi guys where is Clever?
Clever is great prop !!!