Author Topic: Greggs Profile of "Boatless" (Read 106730 times)

Hyperacme · « **Reply #60 on:** October 10, 2011, 05:00:14 PM »

That would be great Kip.
My underware drawer saving account is getting pretty low !

Hyperacme · « **Reply #61 on:** October 10, 2011, 10:02:10 PM »

Sister in Law got me some 3M cleaner & wax by mistake so thought I'd give it a try...
Cleaned up OK ...

Jason · « **Reply #62 on:** October 10, 2011, 10:39:32 PM »

Gregg, Lookin Good!

I used this stuff. They sell it at Napa's. I had a hard time finding 3M marine compounds. I suppose you could get it at marinas. Sure is PRICEY! Anyway, This stuff worked great on the V172.

wexrocks · « **Reply #63 on:** October 10, 2011, 11:08:58 PM »

Gregg,
these boats have an extraordinarily tuff clear... my suggestion (and only that, as I know opinions run strong in this area) is to go to Harbor Freight, get some packs of 500 & and 1000 grit wetsand paper, get the boat clean, hand sand it with 500 grit wet (wrap the paper around your hand, these boats are not square/straight), then 1000 grit wet, then buff it with medium compound, then fine compound. then wax. the clear will definately take 500 grit, no doubt. and skipping to 1000 grit and then medium compound skips alot of steps without sacrificing results. as long as you finish with a fine compound. try these steps in a small area (only takes a few minutes of each). I'm no expert by any means, but results are results, my CVZ is proof, that thing felt like sandpaper when I got it. just trying to help...

David CVX-16 · « **Reply #64 on:** October 11, 2011, 03:56:40 PM »

Hallberg Marine has alot of 3M products. They also have a catalog.

Jerry · « **Reply #65 on:** October 11, 2011, 05:30:40 PM »

I think almost anything works. A little Info, there's "rubbing Compound". That's the heavy cut stuff. be careful ya can over do it. Then "polishing compound" that's to get the real shine, then there's "Glazing compound" that's to spiff it up for a show or something. 3M is good stuff, I use Meguiars because it's like an endless list of just what you want. http://www.meguiarsdirect.com/product_list.do?q=polish&promoCode=MEGFGS49WEBPAYPC&gclid=CJr_jfrT4asCFTADQAodt0JBOg

Here's my sanding stuff. I use the DA (with new gel 180, then 320 dry) for old gel 1000, and 1400 wet. I love these little foam blocks. They're hook and loop (Velcro)

Here's my buffing stuff, A wool pad for rubbing (normally called "compound") Black foam pad for polish, white pad for glaze. Yep it makes a diffefence

This is a small pad for the DA to use with the magic stuff

Ya don't need all this stuff, but I'm lazy

Hyperacme · « **Reply #66 on:** October 11, 2011, 06:51:10 PM »

After Rich posted about the oil tank sight glass problem, I pulled covers and started looking around ...
Look like lack of cleaning with old oil dripping off cables, wires and oil lines, so I started wiping every thing down with a rag and oil absorbant pads.
The oil line between oil tank and pump fell apart in my hands !
Dumped a pint or two of Walmarts finest 2 cycle oil all over garage floor before I could get a container under it ...
Thought it just came off the pump nipple at first ...
It broke in two and split down the middle ...
WOW ... That was a close call ... Glad it didn't happen on the Sunday run on the St.Croix !

Sight tube looks like new ...

Hyperacme · « **Reply #67 on:** October 11, 2011, 07:22:05 PM »

Wex
The finish is in pretty good shape, dirty from not being wash in five years, but not like sand paper.
The above pictures of rear deck were done with cleaner/wax and my hand !
Gonna try a figure out what Jerry just said ...LOL

Jerry
The "Perfect-It II" that Steve posted comes in "Fine", "Medium" and "Course" , he gave me the part # for Medium.
That would be the "Rubbing Compound" your talking about...

The "Finesse-It II finishing" would be the "Polishing compound" your talking about.

I like 3M stuff because my Sister-in-Law works there and get it for cheap ... Well cheaper ...

I've used StarBright "Liquid Rubbing Compound - Medium" ( http://www.starbrite.com/productdetail.cfm?ID=1429&ProductCat=Marine&ProductSCat=Marine%20Polishes&ProductSSCat=Rubbing%20Compounds )
before and it worked pretty good on an old Marquie Tri-Hull.

David CVX-16 · « **Reply #68 on:** October 11, 2011, 08:42:49 PM »

Yes, Gregg, good you discovered the weak oil line. Does your Merc have an audible warning? Are you planning on disconnecting the oil premix feature?

Gregg, there is no reason your MPH should not be in the mid 50's range. Bet we can find a better prop.

74 Carlson the II · « **Reply #69 on:** October 11, 2011, 08:50:28 PM »

He has a 20p on it now and it over revs, I think we need a prop testing day!!! I'm ordering my tach tomarrow!

Jason · « **Reply #70 on:** October 11, 2011, 09:10:11 PM »

Steve I have an extra tach that will work with your outboard. I got it just to verify that my tach was accurate. let me know if you are interested. It's free! it has a light tan face and is pretty simple but new.

74 Carlson the II · « **Reply #71 on:** October 11, 2011, 09:24:56 PM »

Cool! I will have to make trip out of it, maybe I will grab my buddies bike and go for a ride. I will be gone this weekend but the next weekend I will be in town, meet up with you then maybe?

Hyperacme · « **Reply #72 on:** October 11, 2011, 09:42:12 PM »

" Does your Merc have an audible warning?"
Yes

" Are you planning on disconnecting the oil premix feature? "
No

" He has a 20p on it now and it over revs "
Max rpm's is 5250 ... I'm runnin' 5600 with the 20P Laser II.

" Gregg, there is no reason your MPH should not be in the mid 50's range. "
I'd be happy with low 50's ... She's a hand full now !

" I think we need a prop testing day!!! "
YEP ! we sure do !

First time out (St.Croix on Sunday) I was looking down at the tach and only seeing about 4900 rpm's ...
Thought it was kind of low ...
Slowed at the Kinni " No Wake " and looked at it again ... 0 rpm's ... HHHUUUMMMmmm.....
YEP ! ... I was lookin' at the speedo ... New boat ... cut me some slack ...

Rich_V174SS · « **Reply #73 on:** October 11, 2011, 09:57:28 PM »

Quote

After Rich posted about the oil tank sight glass problem, I pulled covers and started looking around ...
Look like lack of cleaning with old oil dripping off cables, wires and oil lines, so I started wiping every thing down with a rag and oil absorbant pads.
The oil line between oil tank and pump fell apart in my hands !

I did tell you to check the clear oil hoses, they ALL go bad and fall apart. I wasn't just referring to the sight-glass hose on the side of the tank. Just make sure they're bled of air when you install the new hoses.

Hyperacme · « **Reply #74 on:** October 11, 2011, 10:02:37 PM »

" bled of air when you install the new hoses."

Was a warning in the manual about that, but not how to do it ...

Rich_V174SS · « **Reply #75 on:** October 11, 2011, 10:17:30 PM »

I think the instructions call for pumping the throttle full open numerous times to pump oil through the oil pump until the hose going to the fuel pump is full. I choose another method. The hose from the tank to the pump is easy, just let it fill with oil from the tank before pushing it onto the oil pump nipple. The small hose going from the oil pump to the fuel line or fuel pump is a little harder, fill it with an eye dropper and then reconnect it to the fuel line, or fuel pump, whichever style your engine has.

Jason · « **Reply #76 on:** October 11, 2011, 10:33:46 PM »

Quote from: 74 Carlson the II on October 11, 2011, 09:24:56 PM

Cool! I will have to make trip out of it, maybe I will grab my buddies bike and go for a ride. I will be gone this weekend but the next weekend I will be in town, meet up with you then maybe?

You got my number! Anytime works.

wexrocks · « **Reply #77 on:** October 11, 2011, 10:34:12 PM »

Quote from: Hyperacme on October 11, 2011, 07:22:05 PM

Wex
The finish is in pretty good shape, dirty from not being wash in five years, but not like sand paper.
The above pictures of rear deck were done with cleaner/wax and my hand !
Gonna try a figure out what Jerry just said ...LOL

good deal Gregg, yes, different pads for different compounds like Jerry said, I would say if you have no discoloration in the clear (like a yellowing) and the finish is smooth then it's all about compounds, but if it has any texture to it, or mild discoloring, maybe hand wetsand it all down with 1000 grit, then a medium compound buff, then a polish or finish compound. I would say if you think the color might be off by even a little bit, try wetsanding a small area. it won't shine like it will when it's all compounded and buffed, but the difference in color should be easily seen. hopefully you've got a "polish and wax" finish and don't have to deal with all that!

74 Carlson the II · « **Reply #78 on:** October 11, 2011, 10:51:10 PM »

The oil pump it's self should have a bleeder screw, if it does have the oil lines hooked up and make sure when you use zip ties use the raidious zip ties- very important for a tight seal. In the manual it states that any time you service the oil injection system you should pre-mix 50:1, I would use a portable fuel tank for that rather than mixing up what is in the permanent tank. When your done bleeding the oil pump then hook up the portable of pre-mix run in a test tank and manualy lift the arm on the oil pump and watch the oil travel threw the lines if they are clear or just wait for the heavy smoke then your done bleeding the system, hook your regular fuel line back up and your done.

Rich_V174SS · « **Reply #79 on:** October 11, 2011, 11:00:34 PM »

I'm gonna have to remember that!