Post by: fireman24mn on November 18, 2012, 07:06:31 PM
Post by: fireman24mn on November 18, 2012, 07:07:51 PM
Post by: fireman24mn on November 18, 2012, 07:13:49 PM
Post by: Hyperacme on November 18, 2012, 08:00:44 PM
At least we won't have to wait long to see the finnished results .. LOL
What color ya gonna go with ?
Post by: fireman24mn on November 18, 2012, 09:04:30 PM
Post by: fireman24mn on November 19, 2012, 03:08:44 PM
Post by: Burnin Daylight on November 19, 2012, 04:10:41 PM
Post by: fireman24mn on November 21, 2012, 09:41:25 PM
Post by: Rosscoe on November 22, 2012, 09:23:37 AM
Post by: fireman24mn on November 22, 2012, 10:07:21 AM
Any way got a little more done. most of the floor and foam is out. Lots of water in the foam what a surprise!
What are the child labor laws again and they don't apply to your own kids do they.
Post by: Rosscoe on November 22, 2012, 10:31:35 AM
Not sure what I want for the stuff yet. I havent done any pricing yet.
Post by: fireman24mn on November 22, 2012, 01:41:15 PM
Post by: Glastronjohn18 on November 22, 2012, 07:57:52 PM
Furniture dollies? Great idea. I didnt think they could take the weight.
Ross, most furniture dollies with 3" wheels are rated for 750#. I'm not sure if that applies to Harbor Freight models.
Take it from a former mover.
Post by: Glastronjohn18 on November 22, 2012, 08:01:24 PM
Post by: fireman24mn on November 22, 2012, 08:07:02 PM
Post by: wexrocks on November 22, 2012, 09:56:28 PM
Aren't the CV23's running on a pad??
Indeed... checking to make sure there is no hook in the pad would be a worthwhile effort.
Post by: CVZ18Fan on November 22, 2012, 10:12:05 PM
(http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb163/motoxconnection/CVZ18/28594B9F-AE09-4C0F-87EE-E0DA0EBF9158-3814-00000761805BDD1C.jpg)
I am sending you a PM, have a question about something on your CVX18. Good luck, can't wait to watch the process.
Rich
Post by: fireman24mn on November 24, 2012, 09:58:27 AM
Post by: CVZ18Fan on November 24, 2012, 01:03:47 PM
Rich
Post by: fireman24mn on November 24, 2012, 01:10:28 PM
Post by: CVZ18Fan on November 24, 2012, 01:22:11 PM
Post by: Hyperacme on November 24, 2012, 02:16:29 PM
When ?
You get more done in one evening then I do in one month ... LOL
Post by: CVZ18Fan on November 24, 2012, 03:23:33 PM
Rich
Post by: fireman24mn on November 24, 2012, 04:44:28 PM
You planning on having this done by spring? Do you sleep out in the shop??
Thats the plan. It is getting pulled back out of the garage on sunday. I have a floor to put in my friends aluminum fishing boat. That should only take a few days. Then I have to do a couple touch ups on my other friends truck. And Jeff asked me to fix a couple spots on his car last spring as well.
Post by: fireman24mn on November 25, 2012, 10:42:56 PM
1st pic is the foam that was behind the transom on one side and guess what it had water in it as well.
2nd looking toward stern
3rd looking towards bow
4th close up of transom.
Post by: fireman24mn on January 14, 2013, 11:12:51 AM
Post by: dorelse on January 14, 2013, 11:16:46 AM
Post by: Hyperacme on January 14, 2013, 11:28:39 AM
Post by: thedeuceman on January 14, 2013, 02:39:53 PM
Post by: WetRaider on January 14, 2013, 03:02:16 PM
Post by: fireman24mn on January 14, 2013, 04:53:24 PM
I love it. If that table dropped on it's post, you could have a pad to toss on top and the whole thing can be a little "recessed" sun pad ...
Or a second bed. I have the camper top for the boat as well looks like if I do this I could sleep 4. 2 in Cuddy and 2 up top.
Post by: WetRaider on January 14, 2013, 05:43:23 PM
Post by: OleRed on January 14, 2013, 06:39:43 PM
there is not near that much roon back there in a CV-23, the scimitar is 65" inside the back seat, that celebrity was almost 90"
Post by: Crebb on January 14, 2013, 07:53:33 PM
I'm new and should probably just shut up and listen but, had a lot of boats and never liked having to step on the seats to get in the boat. May not want to bring the U too far forward so there will be room to stand next to the gunnels without standing on a seat. Just a thought. I guess there would be plenty of length in a 23 footer. These pictures are such an education. Maybe if I had seen them before I wouldn't have started this project.
Crebb
Post by: Burnin Daylight on January 16, 2013, 05:59:16 PM
http://www.perfprotech.com/dressed-383-marine-performance-longblock-mbp3830ctc/product/247292 (http://www.perfprotech.com/dressed-383-marine-performance-longblock-mbp3830ctc/product/247292)
Post by: 75starflight on January 16, 2013, 08:29:26 PM
Post by: fireman24mn on January 17, 2013, 09:37:22 AM
Post by: Burnin Daylight on January 17, 2013, 09:43:41 AM
I am probably just going to build a mild 350. Unless I come into a windfall of cash of course.
I thought maybe with you wanting to raise the X dimension and move the transom back that you were wanting to make a hot rod out of it.
How mild?? What are you thinking?
Post by: fireman24mn on January 17, 2013, 08:49:49 PM
Post by: Burnin Daylight on January 18, 2013, 08:17:46 AM
Gosh Sean that 10--15 mph to reach 70 has been a struggle for me and pricey. Good luck..
Post by: fireman24mn on January 18, 2013, 09:42:25 AM
Post by: fireman24mn on January 18, 2013, 04:05:36 PM
Post by: 75starflight on January 18, 2013, 07:24:47 PM
Sent from my AT100 using Tapatalk 2
Post by: Rosscoe on January 20, 2013, 11:49:34 AM
After seeing what you did on your CVX, I'd like to talk to you about painting my 61 Surflite but that is down the road.
Post by: fireman24mn on January 21, 2013, 10:12:30 AM
Finally got the last of the "other Projects" done and the boat is back in the garage. Time to make some progress
Post by: dorelse on January 21, 2013, 10:18:05 AM
Post by: fireman24mn on January 23, 2013, 09:00:08 AM
Post by: Tonka Jim on January 23, 2013, 04:08:46 PM
I'm looking forward to progress pics :o
Way to go Shawn
Post by: CVX Fever on January 23, 2013, 08:52:57 PM
Post by: fireman24mn on January 25, 2013, 11:13:44 PM
Post by: fireman24mn on January 25, 2013, 11:15:06 PM
Post by: 75starflight on January 25, 2013, 11:20:14 PM
Post by: thedeuceman on January 26, 2013, 09:12:49 AM
If anyone would like to volunteer for the grinding let me know I have more than one grinder.
when are you working ?
i could help today, or some night next week.
Post by: Hyperacme on January 26, 2013, 06:44:57 PM
Post by: carlsoncvx18 on January 26, 2013, 07:49:49 PM
You have a nice camera that filters out all the white dust in the air.
Post by: Hyperacme on January 26, 2013, 08:05:26 PM
Looked like i had a white hat on !
Post by: WetRaider on January 26, 2013, 09:47:12 PM
Post by: Hyperacme on January 26, 2013, 09:52:33 PM
Post by: fireman24mn on January 26, 2013, 10:52:19 PM
Post by: fireman24mn on February 09, 2013, 12:11:22 PM
Post by: fireman24mn on February 09, 2013, 07:24:09 PM
Post by: friscoboater on February 13, 2013, 09:39:20 PM
Post by: 23csx on February 15, 2013, 06:54:56 PM
Keep up the good work.
Post by: fireman24mn on February 18, 2013, 11:56:49 AM
Post by: fireman24mn on February 27, 2013, 11:38:02 AM
Post by: dorelse on February 27, 2013, 11:49:47 AM
I also have no doubt you'll kick it into high gear shortly!
Have you decided on a color yet?
Post by: fireman24mn on February 27, 2013, 03:34:46 PM
Post by: Hyperacme on February 27, 2013, 05:39:34 PM
Can't go wrong with blue or red !
Post by: fireman24mn on March 01, 2013, 08:54:45 AM
And stopped at Express Composites and got a roll of 8in Double Bias cloth, mixing sticks, miking cups, and my 1st 5 gal of resin.
Post by: thedeuceman on March 01, 2013, 09:13:52 AM
i used cardboard on the gt, it worked ok but i see the foam is a better choice
Post by: fireman24mn on March 01, 2013, 02:26:27 PM
Side note any one doing a CV 23 that would want the foam when I am done. Don't know about shipping but may be able to figure something out.
Post by: fireman24mn on March 04, 2013, 10:36:06 AM
Post by: Rosscoe on March 04, 2013, 11:43:17 AM
Post by: fireman24mn on March 04, 2013, 01:24:22 PM
Post by: fireman24mn on March 04, 2013, 11:52:20 PM
Post by: WetRaider on March 06, 2013, 09:50:18 AM
Post by: Rosscoe on March 10, 2013, 12:49:45 PM
I imagine there were some drainage holes in the bulkheads etc. Will you be adding those or trying to seal it up tight?
What type of material will you be using for the stringers?
Post by: fireman24mn on March 10, 2013, 03:31:55 PM
Here are the pics of what I have. Stringers are all built and will probably start cutting them from wood this week. Hope fully start glassing soon as well.
Post by: Rosscoe on March 11, 2013, 09:06:39 AM
Is your transom foam that actual size it will be? Seems taller then the hull.
You still must of had to "eyeball" the shape when cutting the foam since you'd be holding a square piece of foam next to the contour to cut it.
Post by: fireman24mn on March 11, 2013, 10:47:46 AM
Looks like the floor in the cuddy is lower then the rest. That makes sense. Is your tank good and are you putting it back in the same place? Where do those center takes get filled from...the bow still?
Is your transom foam that actual size it will be? Seems taller then the hull.
You still must of had to "eyeball" the shape when cutting the foam since you'd be holding a square piece of foam next to the contour to cut it.
Yes the cuddy floor is lower.
It has a aluminum tank and it was about 3/4 full when I got it. Looks like it is in great shape so it will be going back in. Tank fills right by the steering wheel on the out side then there is a large hose that goes to the tank threw the floor.
Yes the height of the stringers is what was in there. The floor on the 23's is higher than the 18. The width of the 18 and 23 are pretty much the same hull width. 23's just seem a lot wider because you end up with about 16 more inches of floor.
As for cutting I would get a general shape by measuring from the floor line down to the hull cut the V shape. Then took a marker with tape wrapped around it so it was a lot bigger by the tip. Then I would draw a line on the foam about a half inch up from the floor. I would hold the marker on the floor and the tape would hold the tip about a half inch up, then I would trace the hull onto the foam and cut. Worked good and went pretty quick.
Post by: Rosscoe on March 11, 2013, 10:53:09 AM
Getting close to assembly time.
Post by: fireman24mn on March 16, 2013, 01:21:29 PM
Post by: fireman24mn on March 23, 2013, 09:33:10 PM
Post by: OleRed on March 24, 2013, 12:51:11 AM
Post by: fireman24mn on March 24, 2013, 02:18:18 PM
I got the motor mount stringers bedded in this morn I will prob. Glass the transom and stringer in tonight then start on the rest of the stringer this week
Post by: fireman24mn on April 02, 2013, 09:52:30 AM
Post by: thedeuceman on April 02, 2013, 10:58:27 AM
if ya need a hand flipping it (or with anything else) give me a call.
Post by: V153 on April 02, 2013, 04:08:41 PM
Post by: Tonka Jim on April 02, 2013, 04:14:37 PM
It's coming along nicely :o
Let me konw if you need any help also!
Jim
Post by: fireman24mn on April 05, 2013, 09:43:21 PM
Post by: thedeuceman on April 05, 2013, 11:50:30 PM
Post by: fireman24mn on April 07, 2013, 03:52:47 PM
Post by: WetRaider on April 07, 2013, 07:59:52 PM
Post by: fireman24mn on April 07, 2013, 08:35:50 PM
Post by: OleRed on April 07, 2013, 11:00:18 PM
Post by: dorelse on April 07, 2013, 11:39:13 PM
Post by: Rosscoe on April 08, 2013, 05:30:06 AM
Post by: OleRed on April 08, 2013, 07:17:41 AM
Quote
As long as the stuff doesn't absorb water but I am sure Red checked that all out. It would be a butt load of buoyancy with little weight.
I been using this foam for about three years now, never seen anything like it, it's a polyurethane mix, impervious to water, set's up hard as a rock, and unbelievable Fast, the electric company here uses it to set telephone poles after a storm, because they can string wire in in 15 /20 minutes, many people use it to set wooden fence post, because it seals off water from the post so it won't rot, and they also use it to set aluminum flag poles, so I figured why not use it in an old boat. The stuff cost a little over $100 for a 4 gallon kit, 50/50 mix ratio, a 12 to 1 expantion ratio, that means if you mix a gallon of part "A" with a gallon of part "B" stir it up 40 seconds with the little stirring wheel on a drill motor that comes with the kit, pour it in a 55 gallon drum, it will expand up to 33 gallons volumn. The only thing about this stuff is, I wish it was a little slower to blow up, you only have 1 minute after you pour the two parts together to get it poured in place, not even that long in hot weather. It weighs about 10 pounds a gallon, but not near that much when it's expanded, never figured that out ? I haven't weighed an expanded piece of it, but it's not very heavy.
GRA Services Int.
5000 E. 2nd. st
Edmond, Ok. 73034
405-330-2395
Doug
Post by: fireman24mn on April 08, 2013, 12:53:01 PM
Red In looking at the pic from the Celebrity. It looks like you added a 2nd strip on the top edge of the stringers. Was this just to have a larger area to screw too or was this to make all the stringers level so the deck went on level. I am trying to decide if I want to add a 1x2 or something to the stringers and make it all level that way or if I want to sand/ plane them all down level again. I have a couple that are not level when setting a straight edge across the floor. I think it was a combo of my cutting and getting some set further in to the cabsol mix than then others. On the V-195 I planed them all down so they were close and no big high spots. Ideas?
Post by: OleRed on April 08, 2013, 10:59:12 PM
Post by: carlsoncvx18 on April 10, 2013, 04:30:45 PM
Are you going to do a flip this Saturday morning????
Looking forward to watching it.
Post by: Hyperacme on April 10, 2013, 06:16:06 PM
Post a time Shawn ...
Post by: fireman24mn on April 18, 2013, 10:50:54 AM
Post by: fireman24mn on April 18, 2013, 10:56:50 AM
Red
The last to photos show some stress cracks in the hull where the front crossmember/ header is and where the cuddy starts. From the factory there is not much support in the front I reinforced and added some more structure it so this should not happen again.
Post by: V153 on April 18, 2013, 07:05:59 PM
Post by: fireman24mn on April 20, 2013, 01:43:54 AM
Post by: CVZ18Fan on April 20, 2013, 04:50:57 AM
Rich
Post by: fireman24mn on April 21, 2013, 09:39:53 AM
Post by: David CVX-16 on April 21, 2013, 05:03:27 PM
http://www.performanceboats.com/jet-boats/45022-bottom-detailing-blueprinting-101-a.html (http://www.performanceboats.com/jet-boats/45022-bottom-detailing-blueprinting-101-a.html)
http://www.screamandfly.com/archive/index.php/t-197672.html (http://www.screamandfly.com/archive/index.php/t-197672.html)
Also, make the edges sharp.
Post by: fireman24mn on May 14, 2013, 12:15:29 PM
Post by: WetRaider on May 14, 2013, 12:18:14 PM
Post by: seanol on August 26, 2013, 03:19:39 PM
I really debated using the foam at 12.XX a sheet to just be thrown away in the end. Could have screwed up a couple sheets of Plywood for that price. But I figured I can get everything cut and shaped this way and will make the cutting of the wood easier.
Side note any one doing a CV 23 that would want the foam when I am done. Don't know about shipping but may be able to figure something out.
If you are willing to ship it to Las Vegas I could use it! Let me know what shipping charges are and I will cover of course. Maybe they could be sectioned and labeled?
Thanks,
Sean
Post by: fireman24mn on August 26, 2013, 04:31:44 PM
Post by: OleRed on August 28, 2013, 03:12:38 PM
Post by: fireman24mn on August 28, 2013, 03:41:13 PM
You are doing some Fine work on that baby Shawn, sure wish you lived closer, I'd Kidnap you, make you work for your release. I got another scimitar coming in the shop December or January, but I'm going to get some help on that one, looks like mine may have to wait another year before it gets it's "surgery".
I have a feeling that if we lived closer there would be some other mods to the 23 as well.
Looks like Gary's boat is coming along pretty good as well.
Post by: Bayflite73 on August 30, 2013, 06:47:17 PM
You are doing some Fine work on that baby Shawn, sure wish you lived closer, I'd Kidnap you, make you work for your release. I got another scimitar coming in the shop December or January, but I'm going to get some help on that one, looks like mine may have to wait another year before it gets it's "surgery".
High praise from Red. Well done Shawn!
Post by: fireman24mn on September 23, 2013, 09:21:02 PM
Post by: fireman24mn on September 23, 2013, 09:22:25 PM
pics 3 shows spider cracking in the glass. looking at the gel I would have never guessed that it carried that far through.
Post by: fireman24mn on September 23, 2013, 09:24:28 PM
in pic 4 you can see the dents from the rollers on the trailer that I had to fill. One more reason I don't like roller trailers.
Post by: fireman24mn on October 08, 2013, 12:10:45 PM
Post by: fireman24mn on October 15, 2013, 05:06:36 PM
Post by: Rosscoe on October 15, 2013, 07:56:11 PM
Post by: fireman24mn on October 15, 2013, 08:46:14 PM
Post by: 75starflight on October 15, 2013, 09:02:49 PM
Post by: wexrocks on October 15, 2013, 09:20:23 PM
Just curious, what kind of primer did you use?
Post by: fireman24mn on October 15, 2013, 09:58:06 PM
Post by: Burnin Daylight on October 16, 2013, 06:11:01 AM
Post by: fireman24mn on October 16, 2013, 08:48:16 AM
Post by: OleRed on October 16, 2013, 09:43:43 AM
The drive on Red'sGold came out almost 3" from original design, I had planned it to be 2 1/2 but when it was all done it was a bit higher, and I had some real difficulty finding a prop I could run in it with-out cavitating, but after the nose mod on the lower gear case all that went away, allowing me to run larger diameter props. My point, or my question, is wondering how high you could raise the "x" dimention on a cv-23 to make a sugnificent difference in speed an performance, or would it be advantagous just to leave it where it is and find an early SS (shorty) drive to install on it, that would set the cavitation plate on the drive the same level of the hull, maybe just a bit above the plave of the hull.
I have plans to shorten a Gen II to achieve just that, thanks to Retro I have enough parts to experiment with.
Post by: Jason on October 16, 2013, 09:49:25 AM
Post by: fireman24mn on October 16, 2013, 10:27:00 AM
Something I noticed on the cv-23 is that the drive is two inches deeper in the water than the scimitars, I figure there is about that much difference in the cut of the "v" to create the pad. Until seen that, I thought the drive would have been raised to that difference on the 23's to take full advantage of the pad effect.
The drive on Red'sGold came out almost 3" from original design, I had planned it to be 2 1/2 but when it was all done it was a bit higher, and I had some real difficulty finding a prop I could run in it with-out cavitating, but after the nose mod on the lower gear case all that went away, allowing me to run larger diameter props. My point, or my question, is wondering how high you could raise the "x" dimention on a cv-23 to make a sugnificent difference in speed an performance, or would it be advantagous just to leave it where it is and find an early SS (shorty) drive to install on it, that would set the cavitation plate on the drive the same level of the hull, maybe just a bit above the plave of the hull.
I have plans to shorten a Gen II to achieve just that, thanks to Retro I have enough parts to experiment with.
My plan is to raise the drive 2 inches. Not sure how much clearance there is on the sun pads above the engine or if I will have to raise/ modify them at all. Also as Barb pointed out with the shape of the back of the boat there is not much room to raise the drive more then 2 or 3 inches with out doing some major mods.
Red what is the best way to figure out the X and figure out where to cut the hole? I have never done it. If i remember Retro said he has the template for the hole.
Post by: fireman24mn on October 16, 2013, 10:34:33 AM
Post by: OleRed on October 16, 2013, 11:12:19 AM
Quote
Red what is the best way to figure out the X and figure out where to cut the hole? I have never done it. If i remember Retro said he has the template for the hole.
This is the best thing to use, this way the holes are drilled strait thru the transom, a must for the studs on the transom assy. the inner side of this plate is the hole size, just a little more cut required at the top after the slanted holes are cut for the steering arm to clear.
Post by: wexrocks on October 16, 2013, 11:16:19 AM
Post by: Burnin Daylight on October 16, 2013, 12:49:58 PM
Does raising the motor affect take off and plane out performance? The 23's don't seem to just "pop out" of the water like the smaller boats do. Would sure be nice if you could some how make it adjustable..... Maybe you should just convert it to an outboard Shawn!
Jason, after we added the extra horsepower to Hot Knots she comes right on up and lays the bow down much faster than before. That's running the 21 pitch prop, with the 19 pitch it is really got a great holeshot.
Post by: OleRed on October 16, 2013, 01:08:39 PM
Does raising the motor affect take off and plane out performance? The 23's don't seem to just "pop out" of the water like the smaller boats do. Would sure be nice if you could some how make it adjustable..... Maybe you should just convert it to an outboard Shawn!
Jason, after we added the extra horsepower to Hot Knots she comes right on up and lays the bow down much faster than before. That's running the 21 pitch prop, with the 19 pitch it is really got a great holeshot.
Her's a video of Red's Gold holeshot with the stock 260hp and the raised drive.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nKAN8XRxUhI
and another of Hot Knots with original drive set
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e1_eBmmzWyU
Post by: Jason on October 16, 2013, 02:32:29 PM
Does raising the motor affect take off and plane out performance? The 23's don't seem to just "pop out" of the water like the smaller boats do. Would sure be nice if you could some how make it adjustable..... Maybe you should just convert it to an outboard Shawn!
Jason, after we added the extra horsepower to Hot Knots she comes right on up and lays the bow down much faster than before. That's running the 21 pitch prop, with the 19 pitch it is really got a great holeshot.
Oh Yea, I am sure with the extra HP it wouldn't be a problem, but I was not sure what Shawn was thinking for HP.
Post by: OleRed on October 16, 2013, 03:02:35 PM
running a 1.65 ratio drive and a 20 pitch ss 4 blade prop, it still has a Burnin Daylight attitude :)
Post by: fireman24mn on October 16, 2013, 03:32:49 PM
Oh Yea, I am sure with the extra HP it wouldn't be a problem, but I was not sure what Shawn was thinking for HP.
[/quote]
I will be running the 260 hp out of the celebrity to start. I will prob do a couple things to get a few more horses, than I plan on building a 400 SB for it in the future.
Jason have you tried any 4 blade props?
I am going to be picking up a 4blade 21 that you can try next year.
Post by: Jason on October 16, 2013, 06:34:56 PM
Post by: CVZ18Fan on October 16, 2013, 07:33:59 PM
Rich
Post by: fireman24mn on October 16, 2013, 08:21:07 PM
I am using all of there product except for the base coat and Flake. Base will probably be PPG/Omni and Flake is from Roth Flake.
I am debating to do a few things with some products from Alsa but they will be secret untill done. http://www.alsacorp.com/paints.htm (http://www.alsacorp.com/paints.htm)
Post by: CVZ18Fan on October 16, 2013, 09:20:06 PM
Rich
Post by: thedeuceman on October 17, 2013, 11:33:13 AM
Thanks for sharing the picture of the the materials you are using. Can't wait to see the color and flake go on. If you could post links for the companies you are ordering from, that would be a great source of info for us.Already thinking about flake on the 92 ;)
Rich
Post by: CVZ18Fan on October 17, 2013, 12:36:58 PM
Rich
Post by: fireman24mn on October 17, 2013, 09:04:28 PM
Thanks Shawn!! Appreciate it. Looking forward to what you choose and a base orange color and also how you like the flake in a intercoat clear vs. how you sprayed it in the CVX18. When are you spraying the white ??
Rich
I got a couple cars I have to fix that I have been putting off for months (one is the wife's). A few are club members that have asked about some painting. Then the 23 will be back in the garage for paint and flake on the bottom half. Thinking a month hopefully sooner. I also have to get the snowmobiles ready.
Post by: CVZ18Fan on October 17, 2013, 09:27:26 PM
Snowmobiles, one thing I miss. I had an 83 Polaris Indy 600 when I lived in NY. That thing would fly! Down in the south, you could use one for a day a year if you were lucky. Most people have never have seen one in person.
I know I have pictures somewhere, but my second dad in this world, who was a mechanical engineer (genius) and built race cars (dirt modifieds), built from scratch the most amazing ice car you have ever seen. The chassis was modeled off a mini sprint frame, had a Polaris Indy 600 engine, was front wheel drive, sat about 3 inches off the ground, had wide studded front tires and studded skinnies on the rear, solid rear axle with adjustable coil overs on all four corners. The lake I grew up on was very active with everything that went fast. We kept about an 1/8 mile oval cleared all winter with a pit area and would race every weekend. There was not a four wheeler nor a trike (Tecate's & 250R's) that could even keep up with it. The snowmobiles could run with it in a straight line but had no chance in the turns. It had a hand brake to set the thing side ways going in to the turns, like you see in the Rally cars. The studded front wheels would throw rooster tails of ice going through the turns, purely awesome! Had to make lexan ice shields so you didn't get a face full of ice (we realized this after day one with it..LOL) Every once in a while when the ice was clear, we would make speed runs down the lake. One of the guys on the lake was a state trooper, cool guy, he clocked me at 119mph one afternoon. We even made the news with it the first year. They did a whole story on it and there I was on TV throwin it sideways around the turn, my five minutes of fame. LOL.
I will see if I can find the pictures of it. It hasn't been fired up in many years but is still sitting in the corner of his pole barn. Just thought I would share.
Rich
Post by: CVZ18Fan on October 19, 2013, 06:08:56 PM
Your base coat will not be from them??
I see the Keystone mixing cups. That is where I buy my PPG stuff. Are they a Southern Polyurethanes dealer?
One more paint question, I have 3/4 gallon of this PPG ALK-200 Metallic Black paint on the shelf. It is a single stage product that is glossy. I am just thinking, but if I wanted to spray a trailer with this but add some flake (agent orange from Roth), could I spray clear with flake mixed in over the single stage?? I did some reading and some have said they have sprayed the clear with flake in the re-coat window of the base and had great results. Just wondering what your thoughts are on that.
Thanks,
Post by: CVZ18Fan on October 19, 2013, 08:32:12 PM
Also, how do you think the Agent Orange flake would look sprayed over black?
Rich
Post by: CVZ18Fan on October 19, 2013, 10:03:51 PM
Rich
Post by: Glastronjohn18 on October 19, 2013, 10:43:31 PM
Quote
Snowmobiles, one thing I miss. I had an 83 Polaris Indy 600 when I lived in NY. That thing would fly! Down in the south, you could use one for a day a year if you were lucky. Most people have never have seen one in person.
Rich, Talk of your INDY 600 sure brought back memories. I bought mine Dec. 22, 1982 as a Christmas gift to me and rode it all over Tug Hill and Old Forge. You are right those 600's could fly, had mine on radar at 108. Here's a pic for those people who have never seen one.
(http://i1280.photobucket.com/albums/a494/glastronjohn18/Turbo650/1983INDY6000001_zps5df138c6.jpg) (http://s1280.photobucket.com/user/glastronjohn18/media/Turbo650/1983INDY6000001_zps5df138c6.jpg.html)
Post by: CVZ18Fan on October 19, 2013, 11:41:47 PM
Thanks for sharing.
Rich
Post by: Hyperacme on October 20, 2013, 09:40:38 AM
Good to see you guys again ...
(http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p286/Hyperacme/CGOAMNpic%203/shawnsgarage_zpseffffb5b.jpg) (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/Hyperacme/media/CGOAMNpic%203/shawnsgarage_zpseffffb5b.jpg.html)
Post by: 75starflight on October 20, 2013, 10:02:41 AM
If ya can't go boating ... The next best thing is to sit in a warm garage, drink beer and talk boating !
Good to see you guys again ...
(http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p286/Hyperacme/CGOAMNpic%203/shawnsgarage_zpseffffb5b.jpg) (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/Hyperacme/media/CGOAMNpic%203/shawnsgarage_zpseffffb5b.jpg.html)
Wish I could have been their! Oh well it will have to wait until after the first of the year when we can make the trip to mlps.
Post by: fireman24mn on October 20, 2013, 11:57:13 AM
Hey Shawn, I am on the Southern Polyurethanes website looking around. From the picture you posted, I know what primer you are spraying but what product # you going to use for the mid coat clear and the top clear?
Your base coat will not be from them??
I see the Keystone mixing cups. That is where I buy my PPG stuff. Are they a Southern Polyurethanes dealer?
One more paint question, I have 3/4 gallon of this PPG ALK-200 Metallic Black paint on the shelf. It is a single stage product that is glossy. I am just thinking, but if I wanted to spray a trailer with this but add some flake (agent orange from Roth), could I spray clear with flake mixed in over the single stage?? I did some reading and some have said they have sprayed the clear with flake in the re-coat window of the base and had great results. Just wondering what your thoughts are on that.
Thanks,
When I painted the 18 the white that I used was single stage. I have cleared over single stage many times. I am using their intercoat clear for the flake and will be using PPG for the base. SPI only has a few base colors so that is why I will be using PPG for the base. I am using the universal clear that is also what I used on the 18. Keystone does not sell SPI i have just called them direct and ordered from them.
Post by: CVZ18Fan on October 20, 2013, 01:59:23 PM
Rich
Post by: fireman24mn on May 05, 2014, 10:15:21 AM
Plan is to paint the bottom and then I will need everyone back in about a week to flip it back over and set the top half on.
Let me Know who can make it out. Thanks
Post by: Hyperacme on May 05, 2014, 11:41:21 AM
Post by: fireman24mn on May 05, 2014, 03:55:11 PM
Post by: scott r bishop on May 05, 2014, 06:58:13 PM
Post by: carlsoncvx18 on May 05, 2014, 08:18:03 PM
Post by: Hyperacme on May 05, 2014, 09:09:44 PM
Breakfast sound good also
Post by: Rosscoe on May 06, 2014, 08:16:43 AM
Post by: fireman24mn on May 06, 2014, 09:36:59 AM
Post by: Jason on May 06, 2014, 12:02:46 PM
Post by: carlsoncvx18 on May 06, 2014, 05:42:41 PM
Made a deal with Sue to go up north and she will be down on Thrusday thru Sunday for Red Wing.
Post by: Tonka Jim on May 07, 2014, 08:52:28 AM
I'll be there, what time is breakfast?
Post by: Hyperacme on May 07, 2014, 09:15:45 AM
Post by: thedeuceman on May 07, 2014, 09:59:41 AM
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2
Post by: fireman24mn on May 07, 2014, 11:56:08 AM
The name of the restaurant is 4 Seasons and address is 114 Mahtomedi Ave, Mahtomedi, MN 55115 if anyone needs it.
Post by: Rosscoe on May 07, 2014, 09:55:53 PM
Joe, can you bring the Merc lifter ring?
Wait, I need a piece of aluminum cut. Plasma cutter?
Beer and donuts?
Post by: Jerry on May 07, 2014, 10:21:45 PM
Post by: Rosscoe on May 07, 2014, 10:31:54 PM
I dont think I have any blades for my circular saw that will cut it.
Post by: thedeuceman on May 07, 2014, 10:37:01 PM
How thick ?
Would need to come here first cuz I gotta head to the cabin right after
No beer or doughnuts for me
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2
Post by: Jerry on May 07, 2014, 11:46:28 PM
Post by: fireman24mn on May 08, 2014, 09:12:49 AM
Plan is Breakfast at 4 seasons at 9 am then move the boat. After that beers or whatever else. I should have a couple other people join us as well. Just trying to confirm that they can make it.
Anyone is welcome for breakfast or to just stop buy and check out the progress. Let me know if anyone needs my address.
Thanks in advance
Post by: kert0307 on May 08, 2014, 09:38:12 AM
Post by: thedeuceman on May 08, 2014, 09:51:19 AM
all the methods mentioned should work well, it all depends on what tools you have available, end results required, and how much you have to cut. personally i don't like the skill saw cuz its so noisy. if i have smaller amounts of cutting and or need a really clean edge i will use a cut off wheel in my angle grinder for stuff up to 1/8"
IMHO for large amounts of cutting/thicker martial plasma is the way.
they do make circular saws specifically for cutting metal with carbide blades, they run at a slower RPM and the teeth have a different design than wood cutting blades (though i have used wood blades too)
Post by: Jerry on May 08, 2014, 10:31:48 AM
Post by: Jason on May 08, 2014, 12:07:48 PM
Post by: Rosscoe on May 08, 2014, 08:54:52 PM
Yeah I've used my circular saw for soffit and facia metal and it does work fine and it is noisey.
No hurry. Its just a counter weight for my snowmobile trailer.
Post by: Rosscoe on May 09, 2014, 11:52:32 AM
Ross we could prob cut it with a Die grinder on Sat if that would work. Or a thin blade in the angle grinder.
Plan is Breakfast at 4 seasons at 9 am then move the boat. After that beers or whatever else. I should have a couple other people join us as well. Just trying to confirm that they can make it.
Anyone is welcome for breakfast or to just stop buy and check out the progress. Let me know if anyone needs my address.
Thanks in advance
Shawn
Can you text me or PM me your address. I was there once but I'll be coming from a different direction this time and your place is kinda hidden.
Thanks
Post by: Jason on May 09, 2014, 12:00:44 PM
4 Seasons
114 Mahtomedi Ave, Mahtomedi, MN 55115
Post by: GlastronCollector on May 10, 2014, 03:12:11 AM
Jerry S
Post by: fireman24mn on May 10, 2014, 12:08:26 PM
Post by: Hyperacme on May 10, 2014, 12:16:08 PM
Was nice to see every one ... if only for a short time ...
Post by: fireman24mn on May 12, 2014, 11:41:29 PM
Post by: fireman24mn on May 12, 2014, 11:43:24 PM
These 3 pics are the base color before flake.
Post by: fireman24mn on May 12, 2014, 11:45:05 PM
Post by: Hyperacme on May 12, 2014, 11:49:01 PM
Post by: Jerry on May 13, 2014, 01:41:15 AM
Post by: David CVX-16 on May 13, 2014, 07:17:31 AM
Post by: Jason on May 13, 2014, 07:22:02 AM
Post by: fireman24mn on May 13, 2014, 08:24:16 AM
Is that with the flake gun again, or in clear?
I mixed the flake into an intercoat clear and sprayed it with the paint gun
Post by: Rosscoe on May 13, 2014, 09:34:31 PM
Post by: carlsoncvx18 on May 13, 2014, 09:52:58 PM
It was a learning experience.
Post by: fireman24mn on May 14, 2014, 08:30:22 AM
Also I posted in the MN events about Flipping the hull over Let me know who can help.
Post by: fireman24mn on May 15, 2014, 08:47:49 AM
Post by: fireman24mn on May 15, 2014, 08:49:21 AM
Post by: dorelse on May 15, 2014, 08:57:55 AM
Post by: 75starflight on May 15, 2014, 09:16:29 AM
Post by: Jason on May 15, 2014, 09:28:34 AM
Looks awesome!
I'd say!
Post by: thedeuceman on May 15, 2014, 12:48:50 PM
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2
Post by: V153 on May 15, 2014, 02:24:12 PM
Post by: Jason on May 20, 2014, 09:35:43 PM
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/21/uhe6y9an.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/21/4emypy8e.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/21/ysuqapuz.jpg)
Post by: fireman24mn on May 20, 2014, 09:52:01 PM
Post by: OleRed on May 20, 2014, 11:10:22 PM
Man I wish I had a crew like that to help sometimes, especially the Tall Guy :)
He's good for a dynamic breackfast
Post by: fireman24mn on June 15, 2014, 11:05:54 AM
Post by: fireman24mn on June 15, 2014, 10:54:16 PM
Post by: fireman24mn on June 16, 2014, 02:13:27 PM
Post by: fireman24mn on June 17, 2014, 01:04:43 PM
Post by: Jason on June 17, 2014, 02:41:44 PM
Not sure if you noticed or not but in the cuddy floor these is a small drain. Probably not all that important but if you got a strong rain storm and didn't have a cover you would have a nice swimming pool up there. Maybe you can get creative and run a drain with a hose running all the way back to the bilge. I am sure on my boat it just dumps in the floor and finds it way to the back.
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t124/lincolnman1969/1986%20CV23/file_zpsff4cc3b2.jpg) (http://s159.photobucket.com/user/lincolnman1969/media/1986%20CV23/file_zpsff4cc3b2.jpg.html)
Post by: fireman24mn on June 17, 2014, 02:53:33 PM
Also could you measure the over hang on each side of the opening in the cuddy and send me the numbers. I am going to try and get the floor/ bed in tonight.
Post by: fireman24mn on June 17, 2014, 03:07:14 PM
Thoughts?
Post by: thedeuceman on June 17, 2014, 03:14:25 PM
Post by: fireman24mn on June 17, 2014, 03:23:57 PM
well you have to drill holes to pour the foam in anyways, i would think it would be easy to get a 1" plastic tube through there for a drain.
The floors are already glassed in though. I would need to get a tube from the front cuddy floor under the gas tank floor back to the bilge area. I am thinking just cut a hole and cover it with a vent and leave one side of the floor with no foam.
Post by: 75starflight on June 17, 2014, 03:53:45 PM
well you have to drill holes to pour the foam in anyways, i would think it would be easy to get a 1" plastic tube through there for a drain.
The floors are already glassed in though. I would need to get a tube from the front cuddy floor under the gas tank floor back to the bilge area. I am thinking just cut a hole and cover it with a vent and leave one side of the floor with no foam.
Shawn could you use a fish tape or stick to pull the hose through? If your holes are lined up it would be a piece of cake.
Post by: Jason on June 17, 2014, 06:07:05 PM
I took the requested measurements as well as a bunch of other cuddy pics. Let me know if you need anything else.
Pics posted to my CV23 photo bucket page: http://s159.photobucket.com/user/lincolnman1969/library/1986%20CV23?sort=3&page=1 (http://s159.photobucket.com/user/lincolnman1969/library/1986%20CV23?sort=3&page=1)
Post by: fireman24mn on June 19, 2014, 11:19:17 PM
Post by: Jason on June 20, 2014, 09:56:57 AM
Post by: Shorty on June 20, 2014, 10:48:01 AM
Post by: Jason on June 20, 2014, 11:10:02 AM
laminant flooring....
lol. I see. just for weight.
Post by: fireman24mn on June 20, 2014, 03:41:06 PM
laminant flooring....
lol. I see. just for weight.
Correct it was just to keep the floor edges down while everything cured.
Post by: 1971gsfan on July 17, 2014, 08:01:39 AM
Your work looks awesome. I am considering flipping my hull and reworking it a bit. My question is about the paint. How is it going to hold up compared to gel? It looks great and would save me buying a gel gun, just never had any experience with "auto"? finishes on a boat. I guess if it holds up on a car it should hold up on a boat right? Also what tip did you use to spray the flake through your paint gun.Do you have to use a larger tip like with gel? Just trying to get another opinion, and you seem to know what you're doing.
you will be first in line if I decide to sell the tandem trailer we talked about. I'm unsure what I'm going to do and I won't have it at my house for a couple weeks. I'll let you know how good the 23 sitting on the trailer is as well. If you have an Alum. single axle glastron trailer a swap would be a no brainer for me 8)
Thanks for your time
Tim
Post by: fireman24mn on July 17, 2014, 08:44:10 AM
Post by: fireman24mn on August 22, 2014, 02:19:54 PM
Looking good Shawn.
Not sure if you noticed or not but in the cuddy floor these is a small drain. Probably not all that important but if you got a strong rain storm and didn't have a cover you would have a nice swimming pool up there. Maybe you can get creative and run a drain with a hose running all the way back to the bilge. I am sure on my boat it just dumps in the floor and finds it way to the back.
Jason I got to thinking about this and not sure I am going to put a drain in. At first I was thinking that I would run a hose to the drain, but if I did and say I forgot to put the drain plug in the boat there would be a direct water passage to the front of the boat. I guess I could put another plug in it in the bilge area and just pull it when needed. But now that I have the tank floor in it would be PITA to get a hose strung threw there. When I was in Jeff's 23 I don't remember seeing one in there. I wonder if yours was just added?
Post by: Jason on August 22, 2014, 03:00:32 PM
Post by: dorelse on August 22, 2014, 03:04:11 PM
I suppose that could become a bathtub with no drain then is what we're talking about. Does the 23 Jet have it Shawn?
Post by: carlsoncvx18 on August 22, 2014, 03:26:40 PM
Post by: dorelse on August 22, 2014, 03:28:23 PM
Post by: fireman24mn on August 22, 2014, 04:35:46 PM
Either way getting a large amount of water up in the cuddy area is not very likely.
Post by: Burnin Daylight on August 22, 2014, 04:41:30 PM
Post by: V153 on August 22, 2014, 04:43:12 PM
Kinda like the check valve idea. But it'd need to have a really weak spring?
Mebbe the line could empty into the bilge well via some kind of 'scupper' arrangement?
Post by: fireman24mn on August 22, 2014, 04:46:47 PM
My 23 has the floor drain in the cuddy. For a while I was having trouble with the seal on the drive letting water into the bilge and I could see water in the drain at that time. After we discovered that problem and got it fixed, no more water visible in that drain.
This is kind of what I was thinking, with a line or passage way then water could get up there making the boat easier to sink in my opinion. I am going to foam the whole floor cavity anyway so then no way water can get up there. Only issue really is getting water out or the cuddy floor if it got in. And like I said is probably very unlikely to happen
Post by: V153 on August 22, 2014, 04:54:23 PM
Post by: Terry_Curran on August 22, 2014, 09:23:30 PM
Terry
Post by: fireman24mn on September 16, 2014, 08:42:21 AM
Post by: fireman24mn on September 16, 2014, 08:46:32 AM
As a side note I should have waited to put any glass on the floor until I added the foam. Now i just need to put more glass over the holes that were cut to pour the foam in. When doing the foam i would pour it in wait until it was just about to come out of the hole and then put the plug back in. Make an X with duck tape and place some weight on it so the foam would push past the hole and farther into the cavity.
Post by: Jason on September 16, 2014, 09:52:05 AM
Looking good though!
Post by: fireman24mn on September 16, 2014, 10:36:01 AM
Post by: frankdevrieslentsch on September 18, 2014, 08:00:12 AM
Frank
Post by: fireman24mn on September 18, 2014, 10:00:55 AM
Post by: Rosscoe on September 21, 2014, 08:16:19 PM
Are you thinking about pulling that donor motor before winter? I assume so. Let me know when your thinking and maybe we can give my new hoist a try, unless you have a way to do it already.
Post by: carlsoncvx18 on October 04, 2014, 06:54:31 PM
Post by: fireman24mn on October 05, 2014, 12:46:15 PM
Post by: fireman24mn on October 10, 2014, 10:27:19 AM
Post by: 1971gsfan on October 28, 2014, 10:05:51 PM
Post by: fireman24mn on January 05, 2015, 09:46:46 PM
I will need to wet all the glass, put a layer of thinned resin on the underside of the deck, glass & screw all the support boards to the bottom of the deck, and last get it all done before it starts to harden.
Post by: Jason on January 06, 2015, 09:06:09 AM
Post by: fireman24mn on January 06, 2015, 11:34:24 AM
Post by: bnz433 on January 06, 2015, 12:12:57 PM
Just curious...
Jamie
Post by: fireman24mn on January 06, 2015, 03:26:27 PM
In the cuddy area I did cut holes and pour. But for the large areas I wanted to get the cavity 3/4 or so full and then put the deck on. I then can look into the cavity from the open end to see where there is more needed as well. I will mark the areas that need foam/ lowest point and when the deck is on I can then pour in those areas and it will expand out from there hopefully filling all voids. Also when I just poured into the deck there is the risk of over expansion and busting the stringers or deck loose if you do not have enough room or holes for the extra foam to escape. The foam also seems to bond to itself and everything as well.
Also in order to do one pour I would have had to mix up 2 plus gallons at a time because the cavities were so big. With filling the cuddy floor and what is in the pics above I have already used about 7 gallons of foam mix. The first 6 gallons were a really dense hard foam, and the last gallon (look at the color difference) was less dense but expanded more. I used the dense foam on the bottom and will fill the top half of the cavity with the less dense less expensive foam.
Post by: fireman24mn on January 06, 2015, 09:39:34 PM
Post by: frankdevrieslentsch on January 07, 2015, 01:45:21 AM
Post by: fireman24mn on January 08, 2015, 09:58:24 AM
Post by: bnz433 on January 08, 2015, 12:18:26 PM
Jamie
Post by: V153 on January 09, 2015, 03:53:59 PM
Post by: fireman24mn on January 13, 2015, 02:21:47 PM
If anyone is wondering I used about 12 Gallons of foam to fill the underside of the floor. I still need to fill the 2 rear hip pockets. I am guessing that will take about 1 gallon per side.
Post by: fireman24mn on January 19, 2015, 10:46:17 PM
Post by: 1971gsfan on January 20, 2015, 06:51:41 PM
Post by: fireman24mn on January 21, 2015, 06:48:46 PM
First couple is of the sanded floor. I sanded all the edges because I ran the glass on the floor over the edge about 2-3 inches. Next is the cut glass laid out and waiting for resin. On the seem where the layers of glass meet you will want to pull/tear the edge off. If you leave the cut edge you will have a hard line on the floor that you will have to grind to get smooth or you will notice it in the carpet. I also overlapped the cloth over the edge of the floor to the hull. All the holes, voids, and cut outs from pouring in foam were filled with a cabisol as well
Post by: fireman24mn on January 21, 2015, 06:50:43 PM
Post by: OleRed on January 21, 2015, 08:56:19 PM
all I got to do is pull the wires/set the sending unit, seal the plug and lay that baby up !
Getting close to being done with this LAST one :)
I paint on two layers of epoxy coating after the over-lay, looks good, makes the over-lay water tight.
Windshield going in Monday, hard to believe the old seal is still Sticky ... grrrr
Good Work !
Red
Post by: fireman24mn on January 22, 2015, 08:34:29 AM
I got a gallon of Gel coat so I can put a layer or 2 on the entire floor and bilge area.
Post by: OleRed on January 22, 2015, 11:04:02 AM
http://www.crownpaintok.com/index.php?epoxies (http://www.crownpaintok.com/index.php?epoxies)
Post by: 1971gsfan on August 01, 2015, 03:27:08 PM
Post by: fireman24mn on August 03, 2015, 03:11:47 PM
Post by: fireman24mn on December 19, 2015, 10:59:35 PM
Also a couple pics of the snowmobile engine. Thought I was just replacing the water pump.
Post by: fireman24mn on December 19, 2015, 11:00:53 PM
Post by: Hyperacme on December 19, 2015, 11:58:15 PM
I've heard of popular brands of cruisers using foam coring for decks.
Some tried it on hulls and had the same problem with delamination over time.
Must be the exhaust side with the scuffing ... Running a little lean ?
Good to see ya back at it ...
Post by: Diamond Chad on December 20, 2015, 10:17:59 AM
Post by: fireman24mn on December 22, 2015, 09:53:09 AM
Post by: Hyperacme on December 22, 2015, 10:36:24 AM
You would need to take great care bedding SS trim, teak trim, grab handles and ladders to swim platform.
Post by: fireman24mn on December 22, 2015, 11:55:10 AM
On the other hand I need to add a ladder to my swim platform and I will need extra strength. Not sure if I trust the balsa for that or if I want to add plywood reinforcement. Or even some stainless or aluminum reinforcement.
Post by: Jason on December 22, 2015, 12:28:05 PM
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t124/lincolnman1969/1986%20CV23/file_zpsfcc3674a.jpg) (http://s159.photobucket.com/user/lincolnman1969/media/1986%20CV23/file_zpsfcc3674a.jpg.html)
Can't tell in this picture if mine has reinforcement or not.
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t124/lincolnman1969/1986%20CV23/file_zps14ae22f2.jpg) (http://s159.photobucket.com/user/lincolnman1969/media/1986%20CV23/file_zps14ae22f2.jpg.html)
Post by: fireman24mn on December 22, 2015, 12:38:57 PM
Post by: Hyperacme on December 22, 2015, 02:09:48 PM
I have heard of rotted balsa cores, but have never actually seen one myself.
I think Ross has a Hydrostream with a bad core ?
I guess I would go with what Express says to do, they haven't steered anyone wrong yet ...
Post by: still_fishin on December 22, 2015, 09:36:09 PM
From talking to express the balsa has the highest sheer strength. I did not know this, but he was saying that studies have been done and it don't absorb water. From what I have found it looks like it does. He said what usually happens is that there was a poor bond between the balsa and the glass/ resin and they start to de-laminate.
On the other hand I need to add a ladder to my swim platform and I will need extra strength. Not sure if I trust the balsa for that or if I want to add plywood reinforcement. Or even some stainless or aluminum reinforcement.
Post by: fireman24mn on March 07, 2016, 08:13:09 PM
Post by: fireman24mn on March 07, 2016, 08:18:37 PM
On a side note if you are running out of storage room you can remove the top of a CV 23 and store it inside of the lower half. Just a little FYI
Post by: fireman24mn on March 18, 2016, 08:45:00 AM
Next will be a few spots around the edges where screws pulled threw or where there are cracks.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yH3COUN_wpg (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yH3COUN_wpg)
Post by: Oldfishguy on March 18, 2016, 09:24:34 AM
Nice!
It sure is helpful to have a "cook" outside the boat mixing a new batch constantly.
Post by: Jason on March 18, 2016, 09:37:31 AM
Post by: Plugcheck on March 18, 2016, 12:40:36 PM
Post by: fireman24mn on March 18, 2016, 03:35:44 PM
On the other had by spreading it out over many years it helps the checkbook.
At this point I am really considering putting a LS based engine in it. I have the 1990 Celebrity as a parts boat with a 350 in it that can go in. However thinking I might sell that engine and use the money to build a 6.0 LS engine. But who knows I also said it would be done 2 years ago.
Any one thinking about rebuilding a 23 keep in mind there is a lot of wood and a lot of boat to fix.
Post by: Plugcheck on March 18, 2016, 04:14:46 PM
Post by: fireman24mn on December 01, 2016, 07:07:48 PM
Post by: fireman24mn on December 01, 2016, 07:15:16 PM
Post by: fireman24mn on December 08, 2016, 08:42:38 PM
Post by: RolandRock on December 19, 2016, 03:37:35 AM
Nice work on that fiber glassing. Way to stick with it (pun intended). I just retired my 1976 CV-23 jet hull at the dump. When they grabbed it with the big claw off the trailer and split it in half.... I cried like a baby!
You were not kidding about the amount of work involved with restoring a boat like this. This is a labor of love and a lot of sweat. Taking your time and doing it right is the only way to go.
No one who hasn't finished a project like this can know the immense pride and satisfaction of taking your family out for the first time on a sweet machine like that one will be.
Good luck, God bless and have a great New Year. RO.
Post by: fireman24mn on December 22, 2016, 11:25:56 AM
I added another board to the back where I will be adding a swim ladder. These boats are hard to get into with out one.
Next pic is the reinforcement for the bow eye.
Just have to get the strip glassed on around the rear edge behind the transom. Where the hull screws together at, and then it should be ready to flip the top cap back over and start on the interior and all the body work on the top half so its ready for paint.
Post by: carlsoncvx18 on December 22, 2016, 05:47:10 PM
Iam in
Post by: Plugcheck on December 22, 2016, 06:46:42 PM
Post by: Hyperacme on December 23, 2016, 09:03:47 AM
Good to see your back at it ...
A CV23 rebuild is a HUGE project, compared to a CVX16 or 18 rebuild.
Looking forward to the "Flippin party" !
Post by: fireman24mn on December 23, 2016, 11:15:56 AM
Post by: fireman24mn on December 25, 2016, 03:43:05 PM
Post by: Plugcheck on December 25, 2016, 04:02:32 PM
Post by: fireman24mn on December 25, 2016, 04:25:52 PM
Post by: Plugcheck on December 25, 2016, 06:52:28 PM
Post by: Tonka Jim on December 25, 2016, 08:38:19 PM
Post by: fireman24mn on December 25, 2016, 09:33:59 PM
Maybe my results vary, but I've found roughly 76-80 degrees yields the greatest volume with the foam. I poured some in the Z once when everything was about 50-55 degrees and the yeild volume was low and quite dense in comparison. In the summer, I found the volume slightly higher, but the rate of expansion seems almost too fast. Love to see progress, gives me a guilt trip that I haven't started the Timi restoration yet.
I agree I usually either put part a & b in some really hot water for a bit. Or I have a radiant type heater so I will put it in front of that for a bit. Temp definitely makes a difference. Don't deal guilty this project has been going for about 4 yrs.
Jim I will let u know thinking one day next week I was going to see if Jeff and Joe had a night that would work for them. I'll buy beer and Pizza.
Post by: Jason on December 27, 2016, 05:42:08 AM
Post by: fireman24mn on December 27, 2016, 09:15:10 AM
Post by: fireman24mn on December 27, 2016, 04:55:47 PM
Post by: David CVX-16 on December 27, 2016, 09:57:17 PM
Should be a glastron breakfast real soon on the north end of town. Maybe some us can stop over after that??
Shawn, I have been assigned to schedule a January 2017 Glastron breakfast at Perkins in Arden Hills. Probably not the weekend of the Mpls boat show Jan 19 - 22. That leaves January 7, 14 or January 28. Do you have a preference for a flipping party Saturday?
Post by: fireman24mn on December 28, 2016, 09:18:15 AM
Post by: David CVX-16 on December 28, 2016, 02:11:09 PM
Post by: fireman24mn on December 30, 2016, 11:24:42 AM
Now I will start building the seats and the side compartments while working on fixing all the cracks, gouges, and other areas, to prep for paint.
Post by: fireman24mn on January 03, 2017, 12:51:29 PM
I decided to make the Sunpad one piece. However the boat is not completely flat across where is mounts to the boat so I am making a few Mods. I am also smoothing out the gunnel area in the back in the storage compartments. There is a area on the gunnel that was used on the Jets but is not on the I/O version. I cut it off and am going to smooth it out. I had already replaced the wood behind it.
Post by: fireman24mn on January 03, 2017, 12:54:47 PM
There was about a 1 1/2 inch gap on the outside ends of the deck in order to get it to be flat. As you can see I made some cuts and reglassed it to make it flat. I will also add another board on the back side for support (not the one in the pic).
Post by: Plugcheck on January 03, 2017, 03:18:14 PM
Post by: fireman24mn on January 03, 2017, 03:56:44 PM
Post by: Jason on January 03, 2017, 11:26:46 PM
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t124/lincolnman1969/1986%20CV23/file_zps342246ad.jpg) (http://s159.photobucket.com/user/lincolnman1969/media/1986%20CV23/file_zps342246ad.jpg.html)
Post by: fireman24mn on January 04, 2017, 10:01:13 AM
That way you don't have the hard edge from the top of the back seat.
My other thought would be to make a sun pad set up like the 18's and have 2 outer pads and then one center pad over the engine.
Post by: Jason on January 04, 2017, 02:47:05 PM
My other thought would be to make a sun pad set up like the 18's and have 2 outer pads and then one center pad over the engine.
That would look sweet! But yea, a wrap around sun pad would be really functional plus a lot stronger.
Post by: Plugcheck on January 04, 2017, 04:04:07 PM
Post by: fireman24mn on January 04, 2017, 06:40:39 PM
Post by: fireman24mn on January 08, 2017, 09:28:37 AM
To install the header I taped it in place so it wouldn't shift around then taped all along the back side so the cabisol wouldn't squeeze out. I used a spatula (dollar Store) to smear in and level out the cabisol, it worked great way better then a spoon or paint stick. Now that it is hardened I will add cabisol to the back side and some more tabbing.
Post by: Plugcheck on January 08, 2017, 12:38:26 PM
Post by: Jason on January 08, 2017, 01:32:53 PM
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t124/lincolnman1969/1986%20CV23/file_zpsb7e80dbd.jpg) (http://s159.photobucket.com/user/lincolnman1969/media/1986%20CV23/file_zpsb7e80dbd.jpg.html)
Post by: Mrs.TheDeuceMan on January 08, 2017, 02:58:44 PM
My 86 has the font storage with a mirror door. My only complaint was the opening is pretty small which makes it pretty useless. I really like how Shawn put a nice big opening on his. What's your plan for a door?Bal Harbor (cropped John's picture)
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t124/lincolnman1969/1986%20CV23/file_zpsb7e80dbd.jpg) (http://s159.photobucket.com/user/lincolnman1969/media/1986%20CV23/file_zpsb7e80dbd.jpg.html)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170108/0740fe5972c6062b7ecdb29d54eb78b3.jpg)
Post by: fireman24mn on January 08, 2017, 06:59:52 PM
Jason the opening is the same size as the old board that came out.
My jet also has the same size opening as well and there is just a snap on vinyl cover that goes over it. I have always used it to store the kids sand toys. I noticed this summer that my jet had about 2 inches of water in it. Thats why I added the half moon hole on the bottom for drainage. Not sure if I have a leak or the kids threw in some toys full of water.
Post by: fireman24mn on February 09, 2017, 09:46:09 AM
Post by: fireman24mn on February 10, 2017, 12:36:19 PM
Post by: 17ireid on February 12, 2017, 06:01:33 AM
Post by: fireman24mn on February 12, 2017, 10:47:45 AM
Picture
1 &2. There was some cracking/ spiderwebbing in a few areas on the boat. So to make sure it doesn't show threw or come back I ground them out then mixed up some thickened resin and added some glass strands to it. After smoothing out the resin with a grinder to get it close I then put regular filler over the area then it will be sanded down to 180 grit before primer. Also where ever I have found spider cracking I have tried to figure out why it cracked there. Usually it was because it wasn't supported well. If possible I have added strength or support to also stop it from happening again. If you look at other 23's they all seam to spider crack in the same places.
3 On the swim platform I am going to install a newer type of marine decking that looks like teak strips. So I wanted to fill all the holes where water could get in. From the factory the teak was riveted on. Here is what I plan on using I talked to them at the boat show. They can also add a logo or name if I want. http://www.aquatraction.com (http://www.aquatraction.com)
4 The boat at one time had a cockpit cover. so there were screws with button heads all the way around. I ground them out and then mixed thicken resin up to fill the holes. Any big holes I have filled would get some glass mixed in for more strength. Also the old emblems were riveted on so filled them holes.
Post by: fireman24mn on February 12, 2017, 10:51:30 AM
pic 2 is the area where I leveled out and smoothed out the original design.
Post by: fireman24mn on February 25, 2017, 09:29:50 AM
Post by: fireman24mn on February 27, 2017, 08:27:43 AM
Post by: Jason on February 27, 2017, 09:47:20 AM
Got the Passenger side interior panel built. Im going to use the original arm rest. The factory used a type of paper board to make the curved part under the arm rest. I stapled some Biaxial cloth then wetted it out.
Nice! I wondered how they did that compartment. Looks like you even remembered the drain holes!
Post by: fireman24mn on February 27, 2017, 10:51:04 AM
Post by: Jason on February 27, 2017, 02:11:22 PM
Are you planning to do any kind of door for the cuddy?
Just curious, what is this for?
Post by: fireman24mn on February 27, 2017, 03:34:25 PM
Post by: Jason on February 28, 2017, 09:47:32 AM
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t124/lincolnman1969/1986%20CV23/file_zpsa2852c71.jpg) (http://s159.photobucket.com/user/lincolnman1969/media/1986%20CV23/file_zpsa2852c71.jpg.html)
Post by: fireman24mn on March 06, 2017, 12:47:04 PM
Post by: fireman24mn on March 12, 2017, 09:37:44 PM
Post by: fireman24mn on March 12, 2017, 09:38:26 PM
Post by: fireman24mn on May 18, 2017, 12:08:50 PM
Front half of the interior is in the upholstery shop getting covered.
Will probably need to get the new engine ordered next week or so and work on getting the parts boat stripped and parts moved over to this one. Steering, wiring, transom assembly, etc.
Then there is the Keyhole to cut. Not really looking forward to doing that. Just makes me nervous that I won't get it cut in the right spot. I have a Merc manual that tells how to do it only difference is I am raising the engine about 2 inches. However it is not an exact 2 inches.
Post by: Plugcheck on May 18, 2017, 02:27:30 PM
Post by: fireman24mn on May 18, 2017, 02:37:11 PM
Post by: Plugcheck on May 18, 2017, 03:57:31 PM
Post by: fireman24mn on May 22, 2017, 02:14:28 PM
If I remember correctly there was 2X8's in the engine stringers and I replaced them with 2X10's. Add some glass and cab and I am somewhere around 2 inches higher for stringers and engine mounts.
Joe was helping Ross this weekend and sent me a couple measurements that I can use as a referance off Ross's 23.
Post by: fireman24mn on May 25, 2017, 09:57:11 AM
Now I will start pulling everything out of the sonar boat and transferring it all over.
Going to order a 383 for it today as well, found a guy out of TX that has a good price on them.
Post by: thedeuceman on May 25, 2017, 04:05:26 PM
Action shot
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Post by: fireman24mn on May 26, 2017, 09:50:01 AM
Can anyone think of any misc parts that they need from a 1991 20ft Celebrity?
I also spoke to Ole Red yesterday, going to borrow his keyhole template for cutting the keyhole. We chatted about a few other things as well.
Post by: Hyperacme on May 26, 2017, 11:02:25 AM
Gauges will look nice.
Post by: fireman24mn on May 26, 2017, 11:24:25 AM
Post by: Hyperacme on May 26, 2017, 12:01:56 PM
The combined gauges look nice.
Post by: fireman24mn on June 07, 2017, 03:50:01 PM
I am debating between rocker switches mounted on black plexiglass or this. If you click on the pick it give a good view.
https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=13579 (https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=13579)
Thoughts?
Post by: Plugcheck on June 07, 2017, 03:59:48 PM
Post by: fireman24mn on June 08, 2017, 09:13:06 AM
Post by: thedeuceman on June 08, 2017, 09:48:08 AM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170608/53ae8e7f298eaa82970d361dc90871bd.jpg)
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Post by: fireman24mn on June 08, 2017, 10:17:27 AM
Post by: thedeuceman on June 08, 2017, 10:52:47 AM
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Post by: nes-cv23 on June 08, 2017, 05:47:40 PM
Post by: thedeuceman on June 08, 2017, 08:29:50 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170609/11879eb1006a7c3f3705c21297e441bb.jpg)
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Post by: fireman24mn on June 15, 2017, 10:04:30 AM
In the first pic you can see where I very securely taped 2 aluminum tubes to the strakes. This was done so I could get a good horizontal line to start from. That is the lowest line on the picture. Then I took a square and set it on the horizontal line so I could draw a vertical line to get the center line. The center was measured by measuring between the 2 strakes and finding the middle. The 2nd small line is a measurement Joe got me from Ross's boat when they had the transom out and they measured from the pad up to the bottom of the keyhole. Because I am raising my drive I then added 2 inches. That is where I got the 3rd longer line which will be the very bottom edge of the keyhole cut out.
Pic 2 is a close up of the lines.
Pic 3 Is after I traced the 2 templates onto the transom. I then called Old red to double check what I had done was good. We talked and he told me to measure from the 2 and 3 strakes to verify that I had a true centerline. Which when I did that found out I was off by about 1/4 inch.
4th pic is with the new centerline drawn and template traced on again. You can also see in the upper corner I had to grind a little filler out because it was not quite level in the corner. Merc says it needs to be a level surface around the transom seal to within 1/16" on outer surface and 1/8" on the inner surface. And thickness is supposed to be 2 - 2 1/4 in. thick.
Looking back now I wish I would have just made a square box above where I made the rounded cut out for more room.
Post by: fireman24mn on June 16, 2017, 10:38:57 AM
After the mat was applied and hardened, didn't take long with the temps right now. I mounted the transom jig and started drilling holes. I got all the mounting holes drilled and am drilling a bunch of 3/8 holes to make it easier to cut the keyhole with the jig saw after the template comes off. Red was telling me it makes it a lot easier and you don't go threw as many blades if you drill the holes.
Yesterday I also ordered 2 gallons of clear and 2qt epoxy primer. Plan is to get the key hole cut, sand the whole top cap, re-prime where needed, and paint. Hopefully next week depends how long sanding takes.
Also picking up the first half of the interior today and dropping off the back seat and swim pad. Pics to follow.
Post by: Plugcheck on June 16, 2017, 12:53:13 PM
Post by: fireman24mn on June 19, 2017, 11:17:43 AM
Post by: Plugcheck on June 19, 2017, 01:05:58 PM
Post by: fireman24mn on June 20, 2017, 09:22:15 AM
Post by: V153 on June 20, 2017, 04:16:14 PM
Post by: fireman24mn on June 21, 2017, 12:18:41 PM
Also just talked to the engine builder a couple minutes ago and the motor will be leaving TX tomorrow sometime to start making its journey to MN. Its go time now.
Post by: Plugcheck on June 21, 2017, 02:48:17 PM
Post by: V153 on June 22, 2017, 04:36:19 PM
Post by: fireman24mn on June 23, 2017, 02:40:34 PM
Post by: fireman24mn on June 27, 2017, 10:20:27 AM
Post by: Plugcheck on June 27, 2017, 05:57:49 PM
Post by: fireman24mn on June 28, 2017, 09:05:40 AM
Paint timing seems to be problematic with me, so if I may, a question or two. When I shoot base, I have always understood the clear must go on after tack free, but before 18-24 hours has elapsed. If I wait several days or more, I need to sand, then reshoot the base, then apply clear. I have had issues with sanding base then clear. They just don't bond together well. Now for flake, I put on 3-4 coats, then 3-4 coats clear without flake. Then cure, sand, polish and re clear untill the desired surface shine is obtained.
Pretty much the same thing I do. When ever I paint I make sure I have enough time so that I can clear within the open window depending on manufacture. On the bottom half go the 23 I added the flake into an intercoat clear, then cleared over that. I don't like how it turned out. So when I do the top half I will be spraying my base then I will spray small sections 2x3 ft of clear with Very slow activator. Then I will spray the dry flake in to the wet clear. I will go around the whole boat that way. Then I will come back and spray 3-4 coats of plain clear onto the boat. Let it cure sand 800 until the finish is smooth with no orange peel or defects then I will clean up wipe down and spray 3-4 more coats of clear. Once done there should be very little to no buffing and the clear will be flat smooth.
Post by: Plugcheck on June 28, 2017, 10:24:48 AM
Post by: fireman24mn on June 28, 2017, 10:30:55 AM
Although it does end up wasting flake.
Post by: fireman24mn on June 28, 2017, 02:32:16 PM
Post by: Plugcheck on June 28, 2017, 03:30:29 PM
Post by: V153 on June 28, 2017, 03:58:44 PM
(Next think ya know he'll be askin ya to hold his nuts, and bolts ...)
Post by: fireman24mn on June 28, 2017, 04:05:35 PM
Doug Ill bring my nuts and bolts for you to hold at Red Wing.
Post by: V153 on June 28, 2017, 07:30:31 PM
You show up with that boat I'd be honored to hold just about anything ya ask me to ...
Doug Ill bring my nuts and bolts for you to hold at Red Wing.
Post by: fireman24mn on June 29, 2017, 03:29:05 PM
Post by: V153 on June 29, 2017, 05:02:17 PM
Post by: Plugcheck on June 29, 2017, 07:10:40 PM
Post by: fireman24mn on June 30, 2017, 09:34:35 AM
Here is a video of me spraying it on using the flake gun. and a couple pics. Now it will dry for a few days(weekend and the 4th) Then next week I will sand it all down with 800 then spray 3-4 coats of clear back on. I will probably repaint the white as well (dam bugs).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jrZhKZk1WQk (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jrZhKZk1WQk)
Post by: Oldfishguy on June 30, 2017, 09:48:26 AM
Awesome!!
Post by: Plugcheck on June 30, 2017, 12:58:17 PM
Post by: V153 on June 30, 2017, 05:41:36 PM
How bout a lil orange pearl in the clear?
Looks good from here regardless ...
Post by: fireman24mn on July 05, 2017, 11:42:58 AM
Really looks good, done with intercoat clear with flake, then clear over?
I didn't use the intercept clear just regular clear.
This one didn't turn out as good as the 18 when I sprayed the dry flake into the clear.. The flake didn't lay down as nice for some reason or I just put a lot more on. More flake is better right? I started sanding last night and it was still really rough. My plan is to lightly sand with 400 and get just the very top of everything sanded down. Then I am going to spray 3-4 more coats of clear (hopefully tonight). Depending if I can get it to lay down smooth or not, will determine if I sand with 800 and spray more clear or if it lays down good I will just lightly sand to get dirt nibs and dust out then buff. I am guessing I will probably end up spraying more clear but will see. Anyone want to come help spray tonight?
Post by: fireman24mn on July 05, 2017, 11:46:53 PM
3 more coats of clear on. Looks way better. I will now for sure be able to wet sand smooth and reclear. I got to figure out something for bugs though got quite a few in the clear again. Might have to wait for a night its raining to paint the last coats on.
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Post by: Oldfishguy on July 06, 2017, 06:46:06 AM
WOW!!
Post by: Hyperacme on July 06, 2017, 09:34:53 AM
Your next project chould be a 1972 CV16 in that color.
Could be an easy, fast job that you could sell for cheap ...
I might know a buyer.
... LOL
Post by: fireman24mn on July 06, 2017, 09:36:44 AM
Post by: David CVX-16 on July 06, 2017, 01:49:28 PM
Post by: fireman24mn on July 06, 2017, 02:46:47 PM
With the Farmers Insurance sign in the background, you can write off the entire cost of the project on your tax return.
Its the old Logo it will never get threw marketing LOL
Post by: Diamond Chad on July 06, 2017, 02:56:48 PM
Post by: Jason on July 07, 2017, 02:47:01 PM
Post by: fireman24mn on July 07, 2017, 04:34:04 PM
Couple of the things I did. I used to do a lot of motorcycles as well. Restored a few cars. All paint no decals.
Post by: V153 on July 07, 2017, 05:08:54 PM
(Much better'n the concrete Manatee that seem to be everywhere round here ...)
Post by: Rosscoe on July 11, 2017, 08:56:37 PM
Post by: fireman24mn on July 19, 2017, 12:53:28 PM
Everything is sanded smooth and I repainted the white last night and was able to not get any bugs in it.
Tonight I will be putting the final 4 coats of clear on the boat. I just went home and covered the boat and set off 2 bug bombs in the garage to hopefully kill any remaining ones. It is also supposed to rain tonight which always helps with the bugs as well. Fingers crossed.
If clear goes good I will start the assembly process. If anyone has some free time let me know there is lots left to do. I will provide pop, beer, and food.
Post by: fireman24mn on July 19, 2017, 08:49:19 PM
https://youtu.be/jrZhKZk1WQk
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170720/6ca6da018efd24c143310a6cf4bc0a7f.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170720/e5dcc774ff50c78e572180f374e1ff61.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170720/b4fa7b0ec4403ba74f49d5bde475258f.jpg)
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Post by: Rosscoe on July 20, 2017, 06:05:10 PM
Post by: fireman24mn on July 21, 2017, 09:07:46 AM
Post by: fireman24mn on July 24, 2017, 10:54:49 AM
Friday I pulled out all the parts from the donor boat. Sprayed them with degreaser and cleaned them all up. Then anything with rust on it got sand blasted and repainted. Also painted transom ring and drive.
Next cut in the hole for the drain plug. Then painted the bilge, keyhole and floor with gel.
Sat morning I installed the transom ring.
Sunday when I got home I installed the drain plug and made the new gauge panels. They will get covered with a carbon fiber vinyl. I moved the tach and speedo from the outside 2 spots and put all the important gauges in the middle so your not looking around for them. I like the new layout a lot better.
Post by: fireman24mn on July 26, 2017, 02:17:07 PM
Joe helped me wire the gauges up. Thanks
Also picked up the rest of the interior for the muddy today, and got carpet.
Thinking another week or so and hopefully be on the water.
Not sure if I'm going to dyne the engine.
Post by: Shorty on July 26, 2017, 03:51:43 PM
Post by: Rosscoe on July 26, 2017, 06:39:36 PM
Man, that flake!
Might be interested in the carbon fiber film for a future project.
Post by: fireman24mn on July 27, 2017, 09:14:17 AM
Awwww maaaaan, your videos aren't on YouTube anymore?
I fixed the link
Post by: Shorty on July 27, 2017, 04:31:59 PM
Post by: fireman24mn on July 28, 2017, 10:43:24 AM
Post by: 75starflight on July 28, 2017, 01:30:56 PM
Post by: Plugcheck on July 28, 2017, 02:49:46 PM
Post by: 75starflight on July 28, 2017, 03:13:47 PM
Ya gonna fun fur the Phoenix? Now that's thinking outside the box.............
probably not. LOL
the bow cover for the CVZ looks like it had the fun fur on it from the factory. I have found remnants of it.
Post by: V153 on July 29, 2017, 09:40:05 PM
need one more small piece to finish it.Don't we all. You furry lil devil ... Looks killer man!
Post by: fireman24mn on July 31, 2017, 09:39:35 AM
Post by: Mrs.TheDeuceMan on August 01, 2017, 08:45:32 AM
JoAnn fabrics has it. The stuff I bought is pretty much an exact match. They also had some softer stuff but it was 39.99 a yard. The stuff I bought was 17.99 a yard.Did you have a coupon? :-D
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Post by: fireman24mn on August 02, 2017, 09:11:59 AM
All the carpet is in except for a couple small trim areas. There is a lot of carpet in one of these. I have at least 10 hours into installing carpet and fun fur.
Bow rail is temp mounted. I had to get 2 new bases because I had 2 that were cracked.
I got the controls and the radio head unit mounted last night. Hook up cables and finish wiring them tonight.
She is starting to come together.
Post by: fireman24mn on August 03, 2017, 09:16:42 AM
Post by: Jason on August 03, 2017, 09:33:12 AM
Post by: TV27 on August 03, 2017, 10:17:03 AM
Post by: fireman24mn on August 03, 2017, 11:35:50 AM
Looks great! Just curious, did you set it up like the original where the starboard backrest fits in the middle along with an additional cushion to form a bed? I thought at one time you mentioned you had no plans to overnight in the boat so maybe not.
I did not. However it would be easy to change it so that it would.
Post by: fireman24mn on August 08, 2017, 11:14:59 AM
Post by: fireman24mn on August 09, 2017, 01:46:49 PM
Will test run it tonight on the floor then drop it in tomorrow. Last few things will get installed on the boat tonight.
Post by: fireman24mn on August 10, 2017, 12:19:43 PM
W/s and hatch cover are installed. This is the windshield that came with the boat. If you look you can see a row of holes towards the top where someone had added snaps for a cockpit cover. The also must have lost the front part of the support because they had a clamp that would go around a pole holding the plexiglass to the center post. Ill be making a new one and putting it on the Jet and they stealing the one on the jet to put on this boat.
Test Run video
https://youtu.be/kNal0zDOq9w
Post by: Rosscoe on August 10, 2017, 12:22:01 PM
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Post by: fireman24mn on August 11, 2017, 09:07:08 AM
Got the motor in hooked up fuel, exhaust thru hull, steering, cables , etc.
Today I have to install bellows, drive, rear seat, sun pad, trim pump, rub rail insert, bilge pump, and a few misc things. Hoping to be in the water tomorrow!!!!!
Any one planning to do some work to a 23 this winter? I have a cradle for one.
Post by: RedOctober89 on August 11, 2017, 10:15:43 PM
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Post by: Jason on August 12, 2017, 12:23:33 PM
Post by: Plugcheck on August 12, 2017, 02:12:22 PM
Post by: Rosscoe on August 12, 2017, 02:22:19 PM
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Post by: 75starflight on August 12, 2017, 03:38:10 PM
I might be interested in the cradle. No idea how I'd get my boat on there though as I have bunks. Any ideas?
Three point it. Two jack stands at the stern and slowly jackt he bow and pull the trailer out.
Post by: Mrs.TheDeuceMan on August 12, 2017, 08:07:41 PM
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Post by: Mrs.TheDeuceMan on August 12, 2017, 08:09:01 PM
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Post by: Hyperacme on August 12, 2017, 08:12:08 PM
The boat .. Not you .. LOL
Post by: dorelse on August 12, 2017, 08:39:42 PM
Post by: Rosscoe on August 12, 2017, 09:00:32 PM
Post by: Oldfishguy on August 12, 2017, 10:15:55 PM
Awesome.
Post by: Rosscoe on August 13, 2017, 07:50:26 AM
Post by: fireman24mn on August 13, 2017, 09:09:27 PM
I still have a few odds and ends to finish up this week. But its on the water and I'm pumped to finally have it out.
Couple pics from at the dock
As for the cradle. Who ever wants it can have it would need a truck or trailer to move it or I suppose you could take it apart and bolt it back together. Only way I can think to get boat on it would be like Brandon said and do 3 point with blocks. Maybe if you mounted some rollers on a board, jacked up the boat, slid the roller boards onto your existing bunk boards, then you could slide the boat off and use the winch to pull it back on.
Post by: Jason on August 13, 2017, 09:47:13 PM
Looks like a brand new boat! Looking forward to seeing it.
Ross, if you want to give the cradle a whirl have at it. Not sure if I'd get to redoing the trailer this winter or not.
Post by: Rosscoe on August 14, 2017, 05:09:00 AM
Post by: fireman24mn on August 14, 2017, 09:16:25 AM
Post by: fireman24mn on August 31, 2017, 02:48:16 PM
Had a few problems that I had to get worked out now after being on the water the last couple weekends. Nothing major.
First was my ignition system. I had a few problems with it in the beginning. Thought I got them all figured out until Thurs. of the meet and made it almost to Prescott and the engine quit. I got towed to Prescott and we tested a few things and just decided to pull the entire Mercriuser ignition system and drop in a Chevrolet HEI type system. Boat has been running great since then.
I bought a used Power Tech TRO 25p 4 blade after I tried a 3 blade 23p forgot the brand. The 25 still wasn't big enough. In talking to a few prop shops they are thinking that because the prop was a small hub and only a 13.75 diameter that I was just getting excessive slip. Fastest was 64.8 (5600 RPM) that the GPS caught, however I think I may have been closer to 68 on another run but forgot to turn on the gps.
There is hardly anything available in my area for props that are over 23P. I have called a number of prop shops and scoured my local CL ads. I finally found a local Marine Performance shop that had a couple props laying around that they are going to let me try out to see if they work, which is nice because they sell new for around $5-600. I got a 25P 14.65 diameter Mercury Rev 4 and a Hydromotive Intimdator 4 blade 25p 15 1/4 inch to try this weekend. We will see what happens and if I just need more pitch or if I just needed a bigger diameter prop.
Ill get back with some number after this weekend. Fingers Crossed!
Post by: 75starflight on August 31, 2017, 03:38:54 PM
Post by: Rosscoe on August 31, 2017, 06:15:03 PM
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Post by: still_fishin on August 31, 2017, 07:29:57 PM
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Post by: Plugcheck on August 31, 2017, 07:55:07 PM
Post by: fireman24mn on September 01, 2017, 09:27:06 AM
Mike. The 23 only weights 450 more than an CVX 18. (CVX 18, 950LB. CV-23 1400 lbs stock). Biggest difference would be amount of fuel that they hold. 18 having a 27 gal and the 23 having a 50. Now also consider I probably removed around 500 Lbs of weight when I rebuilt it between different engine parts and some different wood thicknesses and different materials. Also keep in mind that there is no hook so there is less drag and the drive is higher so again less drag.
I asked some questions on another forum and someone put my numbers with the 25 4 blade Powertech in and they said the calculation that were coming back was about 25% slip.
Post by: Hyperacme on September 01, 2017, 09:41:55 AM
10% to 15% being average ?
Is standard CV23 /260 Merc speed about 55 MPH ?
Post by: fireman24mn on September 01, 2017, 10:45:04 AM
Yes
And Yes
Post by: David CVX-16 on September 02, 2017, 05:43:51 AM
http://hydromotive.com/products/propellers/intimidator-quad-iv-x/ (http://hydromotive.com/products/propellers/intimidator-quad-iv-x/)
Does Mercury Marine offer anything?
Post by: fireman24mn on September 02, 2017, 11:59:26 AM
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Post by: still_fishin on September 02, 2017, 07:50:35 PM
So I just tried the Mercury Rev 4 and got 67.3. It gets on plane instantly. However my Rpms are still 5600. Thinking I will need a bigger pitch after all. I will try the Hydromotive prop later today or tomorrow.I'm a little scared to get my tach working correctly if you are spinning that large hub prop to 5600rpm and 67.3 mph. From using Mercury's online prop slip calculator you are seeing 24% slip (I could be doing it wrong though). Average is 10-15 I thought.
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Here is a thought. .....I think with the height of your drive and consistent excessive prop slip numbers from different pitches and styles of nonsurfacing props makes trying a surfacing type of prop necessary to keep the prop grabbing water. That hydromotive might be your new best friend.
Or you could try one of the props from your really big boat. ....
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Post by: fireman24mn on September 04, 2017, 04:46:21 PM
Pretty sure I am going to need a bigger pitch. I really liked the hydromotive so I might try and find a 27 to try.
So now the not so good news. On Sunday we ran up the river to the Kinni. Got just about there and heard a couple very loud clunks. You could tell by the sound it was not something we hit but something in the drive. I slowed down and to idle then put it back into gear, all you could hear was a growing sound coming from the drive. I ended up getting towed back to Prescott where a friend drove my truck and trailer so we could load up the boat instead of towing it all the way back with all the boat traffic.
I ended up ordering up a SEI drive. I figured that a used drive is almost the cost of a new one and you never know what you are getting. That and the SEI drive has a 3 year warranty. I have not pulled the drive apart yet to see what failed. Hoping its the lower then I can at least sell the upper. Either way I am hoping I can get a few hundred for the drive to help offset the cost.
Now back to prop testing.....
Post by: David CVX-16 on September 04, 2017, 08:31:44 PM
Bob's Machine Shop sells Hydromotive props
http://www.bobsmachine.com/Hydromotive-Engineering-Propellers_c39.htm?page=all (http://www.bobsmachine.com/Hydromotive-Engineering-Propellers_c39.htm?page=all)
Post by: Jason on September 04, 2017, 09:34:18 PM
Post by: Plugcheck on September 05, 2017, 10:14:24 AM
Post by: fireman24mn on September 05, 2017, 03:26:38 PM
He mentioned that he has a customer with a Baja running a SBC 406 with close to 500 hp and torq on an alpha drive. Sounds like he has been running the same drive for about 3-4 years with out a problem. I am sure that boat weighs about the same as mine probably more. I have been on a lot of other forums talking about props and my set up. There are a lot of people running some big hp engines on Alpha and spinning the up to 5600 rpm. I know the alpha is a weaker drive however if you watch the hole shot which I do and maintain the drive it sounds like they stand up to the HP pretty good.
My parts boat was in pretty bad shape and you could tell it was neglected. The props that were in the boat were pretty chewed up. Who knows when fluid was changed or how many rocks they hit. Who know if that drive was even original to the boat.
I was talking to Sam's about the 1.32 and he didn't recommend switching and it also sounded like the gear set isn't any stronger, with one of the gears actually being weaker. No one makes a performance "Heavy Duty" drive. The SS drives are better however I don't think I could even use one on my boat. My engine is also not that big of HP, it is only about 360 hp and 410 on torque.
That said I canceled my order from SEI and am going to be buying a drive from Sam's. I would also rather keep my money at a local shop then a company out of FL.
Post by: Plugcheck on September 07, 2017, 08:00:08 AM
My old drive came apart when during speed runs, inching up mid sixties and trimming up. Suddenly going to nothing, engine hitting the rev limiter, and a dead outdrive made for a rather violent coming off plane.
If your inching towards 70 mph in a 23, sounds like I need to up my game in the Intimidator?
Will you have the new drive set up for more prop testing this year? or is this a next season possibility?
Post by: fireman24mn on September 07, 2017, 10:25:30 AM
Not sure if I will get any more prop testing done. It is hard to find any props in the pitch range I need to test or buy reasonably in the area. I did find B Blades online and they have a prop testing program. $55 per prop plus shipping back and forth. You have 14 days from when it leaves them to them getting it back.
Talked to them and he recommended trying a 28p Brovo 1 prop or a 27p Trophy plus.
Post by: Green with Envy on September 07, 2017, 10:41:54 AM
My Story:
1984 Searay Sundancer 26 ft., 260hp Mercruiser 350, Alpha drive.
I swapped out the engine 3 years ago for a mildly built 383 stroker, est. 405 hp, torque unknown, top speed: 41 mph @ 4500 rpm. Tom at Miss Croix has been working on outdrives for 40 years. He says that it is not the HP, but the torque that kills the drives.
My boat is 5,000+ lbs. I never 'holeshot' or 'jack-rabbit' start. A month ago, I replaced the engine with a brand new Mercruiser 350 MPI Alpha crate engine, 325 hp. Mercruiser designed and built this engine and certified it's use with an alpha. Tom went through my lower unit, per the 3 year extended warranty, and said it is still within specs internally and nothing is worn. This is the original 34 year old alpha.
I am certainly not criticizing or judging the way people use their equipment, because I love the rush of power and speed, too. But, if you treat your boat like it is at the quarter-mile track every time you take off, why would you not expect it to wear out or break? I believe that you can get many trouble free years of use out of an alpha if you ease up on plane. Once there try to break the top speed record
IMO
Allan
Post by: fireman24mn on September 07, 2017, 11:09:34 AM
I'm not an outdrive expert, but I work with one.
My Story:
1984 Searay Sundancer 26 ft., 260hp Mercruiser 350, Alpha drive.
I swapped out the engine 3 years ago for a mildly built 383 stroker, est. 405 hp, torque unknown, top speed: 41 mph @ 4500 rpm. Tom at Miss Croix has been working on outdrives for 40 years. He says that it is not the HP, but the torque that kills the drives.
My boat is 5,000+ lbs. I never 'holeshot' or 'jack-rabbit' start. A month ago, I replaced the engine with a brand new Mercruiser 350 MPI Alpha crate engine, 325 hp. Mercruiser designed and built this engine and certified it's use with an alpha. Tom went through my lower unit, per the 3 year extended warranty, and said it is still within specs internally and nothing is worn. This is the original 34 year old alpha.
I am certainly not criticizing or judging the way people use their equipment, because I love the rush of power and speed, too. But, if you treat your boat like it is at the quarter-mile track every time you take off, why would you not expect it to wear out or break? I believe that you can get many trouble free years of use out of an alpha if you ease up on plane. Once there try to break the top speed record
IMO
Allan
As I stated many times before I don't hole shot it hard I always ease into the throttle. The drive failed while I was on plane going up the St Croix at about 2,600 rpm. Same speed I had drove all the way up from Treasure Island.
All the forums and people I have talked to there are hundreds of people that have high HP engines on Alphas. You just said you even did on a boat that weighs double what mine does and would have A LOT more resistance going threw the water. Why did you need to change out an engine after 3 years? The 383 you swapped in has more HP then the one I am running. Did you read any of my above posts?
Post by: Green with Envy on September 07, 2017, 11:34:09 AM
Most CGOAMN members understand the need to respect the limits of their equipment. I meant no disrespect.
Allan
Post by: Green with Envy on September 07, 2017, 11:46:10 AM
...Why did you need to change out an engine after 3 years? ...
The engine builder couldn't get it right. We went through 3 internal engine failures in 2-½ years. Luckily, all under warranty.
Needless to say, we don't recommend them any more!
Post by: fireman24mn on August 01, 2018, 04:28:45 PM
I got up on plane pretty easy but I dropped down to about 4500 rpm at WOT and only about 62MPH. I did have 3 people and a full tank. I am guessing that only made a 2 or so MPH difference though. So 28P is too much I would like to find a 26 or 27P Bravo prop to try. I have spoke with a few prop guys and that is what they are recommending to try. Now I just have to find one.
Still my best run was on the 26P Hydromotive intimidator 4 blade at 5600 rpm and 68.4 MPH