Minnesota Classic Glastron Forum
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: bnz433 on November 17, 2014, 10:07:42 AM
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So, finally getting into the boat part of this project. The last couple weekends were busy getting the garage insulated, etc. It'll be tight until I get it off the trailer, but since I'm working on the interior and engine for now, I'll be good to go.
Starting with the interior, to get a look at how much needs to be done on the floor. I knew I'd be going through the floor, but didn't realize that it was done before, too. And a crappy job. Previous owner threw down a single sheet of plywood, with one coat of epoxy (thinly applied) on the top only. Not even any means of sealing the joint between the old plywood and the new. And the screws were unsealed. Also, beneath both seats, was a mix of screw types ranging from slotted wood screws, to 3" long Philips lag screws. So while I haven't pulled up the newest lumber, I'm expecting some bad stuff lurking beneath.
Interestingly, everything below the rear bench seat and all the way into the engine compartment sounds/feels as solid as a rock. But I'll be pulling up the carpet from the cuddy wall all the way to the engine bay, and may cut a hole or two to get a scope in there just to make sure.
Most of the gelcoat, at least on the shell of the boat, is in good shape. A few nicks and gouges here and there, but nothing I can't handle.
The biggest challenge for gelcoat repair, may be the "wing". It's crazed and cracked all over. May just remove the wing and have it completely re-gelled by a pro??
Engine is clean, no signs of leaks, etc., and ran well (at idle, on the garden hose) for the entire time I was checking this boat out prior to purchase. Once I get into any of the mechanical stuff there, I'll post as well. In the mean time, it's still disassembly of interior panels, seats, etc., just to get to the rotten stuff. I will have to get new lenses for the gauges (they all work, and numbers/needles are all clean/sharp) because the plastic is heavily "etched" from the sun, age, etc.
But all told, I'm pretty stoked to finally get after this project. In one of the pics, you can see that hideous color combinations they used for the interior. I'm torn as to whether to stick with the stock colors or, as the prior owner did, slowly recover in a little less "in your face" (ie - delete the pink, yellow, blue) and stick with the teal and white. 19CSS folks will notice that the prior owner also eliminated the multi-colored pin stripe. I may keep the minimalist look, too....
Jamie
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I would stick with the teal and white seats ...
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I vote for solid white/creamy white vinyl for seats and panels. If you need a copy of the original brochure, I have one. I put my 91 css into storage for the winter. But if you need a photo of something, let me know. You might be able to buff the plastic gauge covers to restore them. I have cracks on the wing gelcoat, but not the crazing in your photo. Tom S.
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I have cracks on the wing gelcoat, but not the crazing in your photo.
Ya, yikes! That's skeery.
Far as the interior: I'd go with "chalk" (a shade off-white) accented with whatever matches the swoosh.
Having said that. If'n yer gonna put 'moto-fox' stickers back on then it don't really matter ...
Btw those seats match the carpet that was in my house when I bought it. From an old Ukrainian fellow named 'Krypczyk'. No kidding. I felt a lil uncomfortable buying something from somebody with no vowels in their name, but it all worked out ...
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Destruction continues....
Entire interior pulled out. The rear bench's "bolster" will get restitched with the teal. The two captain's chairs will get a new panel of teal to replace the pink/blue/teal Miami Vice combo. But that may or may not get done before Spring...we'll see what the budget looks like when I'm done with the floor, stringer work and any mods to the engine.
I have to make up a new wiring harness because, upon removal of the cockpit/console, it appears to have been removed several times before...resulting in about 10-15 various "splices", etc. So I'll clean it up, include some nice plug connectors, just to make future diagnosis, modifications or removal that much easier. I'll make up a new wiring diagram before I finally put the console on the bench.
Next step is to finish the deck removal so I can see the condition of the stringers. My initial plan was to stop at the cuddy wall. But I may just go right up to the bow. After all it's only about 6 wood screws holding that wall in place. Also, unlike the '89-90 19CSS I'm familiar with, this '91 19CSS has NO SKI LOCKER in the floor. So I may add one in, just to increase storage, but also allows another inspection opportunity.
Plan to have the console and floor completely removed by this weekend, so I can get a view for how much destruction I have left before I start getting constructive on this project.....
Once I get the deck/stringers replaced, I'll pull off the wing (only a few bolts) and see if I can get after it with a sander and refinish with Awlgrip or Imron as was recommended over on CGOA, but there's a good glass/gel guy near me, so I can just throw it in the truck and have him take a crack at it (pun intended). But think I'll wait until the floor is back together just to keep it from "opening up on me".
Happy Thanksgiving!
Jamie
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That is one LARGE dash board !
We have a few 19CSS owners, but they don't stop in to often, so might take a bit to get your questions answered ...
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Post-Turkey Day update. While I didn't get the entire deck out this weekend, I did make a lot of progress.
1) Console is out so I can start rewiring/refresh as needed (new gauge bezel/covers, etc., maybe some touchup of the finish, etc.). Right now it makes a nice play cockpit for my boy when I'm fidgeting in the garage!!
2) Finding water in front of and alongside the fuel cell bay (fuel cell bay was dry). Prior owner's repair attempt provided even more entry points for water, so now all the foam has to come out....all the way into the cuddy, too. So that'll make my desire of adding a ski locker all that more rational! See the puddles??? Also, note the poorly filled foam. Either prior repair or OEM only used 1/2-3/4" holes, with no ventilation during expansion. So we'll be doing that right, too!
3) Got the fuel cell out. Got a leak at the fuel level pickup flange, but easy enough. Didn't realize that there were 15 gallons of fuel left in it (forgot to check the gauge before pulling the console). And my handpump crapped a hole, so carefully poured it into my gas can (3 times). It ain't easy hoisting that thing, with 15gal, and carefully pouring gasoline into a tiny hole!!! Right down the center of the bay is a completely bare (wood) piece. It's glass tabbed on both sides, but nothing the entire length. Then, a semicircular hole allowing anything that accumulates to drain into the bilge area. Not sure if this is good, or bad...but I guess a little environmental leak is better than xxx gallons of gasoline filling an otherwise inaccessible cavity of the boat???
Questions for you folks:
1) Do you generally foam-fill around your fuel cells, or just strap them in? Either from factory or prior owner, there were 2 wooden (2x4) pressure treated braces which held down the fuel cell and screwed into the 2 stringers (screwed...penetrating the fiberglass, etc.).
2) During the disassembly, I must have removed about 300 stainless steel wood screws, all used in various ways to attach everything from the console to the rear bench and coolers, to cable holders screwed into the floor, etc. If one is to prevent water from getting INTO the wood (and therefore beneath the deck), what is your method for attachments. Especially after it's all carpeted? Structurally, the 2 front seats are my biggest question.
Thanks, everyone. And Merry Christmas!
Jamie
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A few schedule delays (work, family, holidays, etc.), but almost done destroying things.
Anyone ever see factory poured foam like this?? Lots of voids, pockets, etc. The more I've dug into this boat, the more it looks like there was major surgery done before...
First photo: See the "pocket" between the two foam pours....was full of another 10 gallons of water.
2nd photo: Whoever poured the foam in the bow, didn't think of drainage....so the "mouse hole" that would allow water to get to the bilge was plugged with foam.
3-4 photo: Notice the difference in floor "elevation" above the hull. These are the "insides" of the outermost chines on the port and starboard side. Nearly an inch difference (yes, I know the one pic still shows the old ply, but even with that removed its significant). So I don't even know if the floor was ever "level" in the boat. Need to confirm via stringers, rear deck, wing and other measurements.
Believe it or not, the stringers along the engine bay are solid as a rock. Only the rear bulkhead (just forward of the 350Merc) is soft. And the stingers are all "sectioned"....IE - NOT full length. They all stop at intersections with the 2 bulkheads...1 forward and 1 aft.
Note that there are NO stringers along the keel line?? Is that normal?? I'm thinking of moving the bow stringer to center/keel, ensure drain provision on both sides of it, and include a ski locker on the left side (remember there is a "cuddy" with access to the port side of the console).
Thoughts???
Merry Christmas!
Jamie
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" And the stingers are all "sectioned"....IE - NOT full length. They all stop at intersections with the 2 bulkheads...1 forward and 1 aft. "
Shawn's 23 has the same set up ...
http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=3740.0 (http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=3740.0)
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Thanks! Didn't expect that, from a structural standpoint. But at least know that I have the liberty to do what I want/need to up in the bow. Can't do much about it center/aft, due to the fuel tank and stuff.
Jamie
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While Glastron/Carlson designs and style are second to none ... There build quality leave some room for improvement !
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Jamie, i think yers does have that side foam, it carries on to the top of the floor.
can see it on the last 2 pix.
i cut mine up about 4" cuz it was wet but i think it will be better to tab the floor on to the hull as well.
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I'll cut a test hole to see. Got a lot of scraping to do anyway to get the copious amounts of carpet glue off the walls. In the pic with my hand for reference, that was all just resin/glass to tab over a pretty big gap from the original deck and the side wall. I'll post back what I find.
FYI - even though this boat was in the water last summer, by the time I got all of the deck off and all of the foam out, I sucked out at least 15 gallons of water! That doesn't include what was still IN the foam in the hull.
Jamie
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Well, it's been a long, snowy winter, with lots of work travel, kid stuff, house stuff, etc. So my wife gave me a weekend of no kids (they were all out of town) Valentine's weekend, so I managed to get the stringers and bulkheads out. I simply used my 18V DeWalt cordless recip saw (wishing I had a corded one....as I chewed through the batteries at 1 pack per 10-15min of cutting) with a very long blade, and let it follow the hull.
I left the 2 side stringers in the bow, as they were solid. I trimmed them back so that I can create a mortise joint for a) the new forward bulkhead, as well as b) tie in the new mid-boat stringers that run alongside the fuel cell.
The rear stringers are super solid and strong, so I left them intact. Like the bow, I'll create a mortise to make a solid connection with the rear bulkhead, and join the mid-boat stringers.
No pictures of the grinding (sucky job...felt like I was in Breaking Bad) results, but only a couple hours left of that. My Dremel Ultra Saw worked great for removing the deck, and started out great for the grinding job, but the blade/wheel was destroyed before I got 1/2 through the bow. And since it was after hours for Lowes, etc., I just pulled out my Ryobi belt sander. Aside from going through 6 belts so far, it did a great job of knocking everything down nice and smooth. And with the dust bag on it, it did reduce the dust considerably, when compared to a high RPM rotating wheel.
I'm shooting to have everything smoothed out by the end of this coming weekend, and templates made for my new lumber. I kept everything I cut out so far, just to get basic references, etc.
In removing these stringers, etc., it does NOT appear that they were in any way glued/fixed to the hull. The bottom 1/2" of lumber pulled up with my finger. It would appear that only the fiberglass wrap makes the mechanical connection to the hull, and the wood is there purely and entirely as a form, not a structural member. Could that be true?
Hopefully I'll be glassing the new structure by mid March, and lay the new deck by end of March. That should give me time to get the new carpet ordered and laid in, and then start putting the interior back together. If time permits, and once the deck is on, I'll pull the "wing" off the back and bring it in to a local shop for a new coat of gel (it's crazed/cracked like mad). But if I run out of time, I may just hold off (it's only cosmetic) until the next off-season.
BTW - my company repairs power plant generators. So we go through epoxy like mad. Each month or so, we have to toss out any expired/expiring epoxy (has a shelf life once put in a can), so I'll be able to get all my glassing epoxy for NADA!! Just have to get my fiberglass order in, and I'll be rolling.
Jamie
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lookin good, its nice you did not have to replace front and back stringers
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Yeah, especially the stern. Would've had to pull the engine, etc., and I don't have the time for that if I want it in the water this year.
But the more I cut into it, and the more I noticed that the wood was never adhered to the hull, the more I wondered if they had any function other than simply making a form for the fiberglass. But at least now, I can a) make some in-floor storage under the cuddy, and b) address the fuel cell filling issues (reroute vents, etc....cuz these boats suck to fill up), c) lighten it up a bit (just getting the water and wet foam out of the hull is probably 300lbs!!!!).
Hope I can make more progress at a better pace now that most of the dirty work is done!
Jamie
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The "Dirty work" sucks !
The rebuild is a lot of hard work to ... but at least it's FUN !
Do it right the first time ... you'll be happy you did ...
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When will you have time to do it over. FIX IT!
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This might be a dumb ?, but here goes.. I had a 90 css-19 and it was an all composite floor with no carpet. Made the way they make boats today. Open the ski locker or access covers and you could see molded composite. Was I just seeing things wrong or was this a newer boat with an old year on the title? Instead of the ser. No. In the glass on the back it had a tag riveted on the back.... It had a pretty hot motor also with a molded in hump on the motor cover that looked like factory, I' ve not seen any other css-19's like it. How about you guys???
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Jerry - You're referring to making sure I bed the bulkheads/stringers to the hull, right? I intend to.
NES - My old man had an '89 19CSS, and it was a plywood deck. I think later '89 models and then '90's all had the gel coated floors with the raised circles. And those had snap in carpet (as an option). But every '91 I've seen has the same fully carpeted floors, and not composite/gel coated. I don't know why they reverted, unless all of the '91's that are out there for sale (with photos on the web) have been redone?
A guy on the Facebook page just bought a '90 28CSS from my neck of the woods. That one had the composite/gel coated floor, too.
Jamie
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My 1991 css has the original gray floor carpet in the cockpit and crawl in cuddy. I looked at 89 models, when they were new and then when I was shopping 4 years ago for a used one, the 2 I looked at had the white fiberglass/gel floors. Rebuilding the floor and covering with carpet will be easier and look better in the end, and it will be as it was originally built. Tom S.
I'm looking forward to see how you expand usable space in the cuddy, are you lowering the floor or lowering the floor down the center 1/3? If you are lowering the middle 1/3, consider making it wide enough for a porta-potty to sit within it. Your outings will be easier with young children. I thought the original factory design should have included this element.
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TMstibbe - Since I had to remove the offset (left of center), middle stringer, I've decided I'm going to run the new stringer right down the middle, in the keel line. Then I'll just install a floor hatch/locker, between the port side stringer and the new center stringer, and paint the inside cavity. That will give me ample room for skis, bumpers, etc., and be accessible right from the access to the cuddy.
Most of our outings will include some camping, with provisions on land, so the need for a porta potty is limited. When we were kids, my dad would tell us to just jump in the water and let it flow! Is that no longer acceptable? :P
The larger CSS, like the 28' and 33' have plenty of room, and include a head. But these cuddies are just a bit too small to have that, plus make it useable for sleeping/napping.
Some of these '91's, with the Teal color, use a gray carpet on the floor and a teal carpet below the gunwale down to the deck. So I'm going with something along those lines. I'm considering a snap in provision, just to make future inspection, etc., easier. But that's not definite yet.
Jamie
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Scored my resin supply!! 16 gallons of epoxy resin, and 6 kits of our "peanut butter". This stuff sets up rock hard, and is great for bedding the stringers and creating chamfers in the corners! All for the lump sum cost of ZERO!!!
And while my fiberglass source (the ones closing up shop) didn't pan out, my shop supervisor can get his mitts on a couple full rolls of 1700 fiberglass. So this is gonna save me about $800, which I can then use for some of the other upgrades I polled you all about!!
Sweet! Now I gotta make the time to get cracking!
Jamie
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In my CSS 19, the gunwale carpet and floor carpet are the same gray color. No teal carpet in the boat. I believe mine is an early in the year model, it was displayed and sold at the Minneapolis boat show in early 1991. ts
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Yeah, I've seen pictures with various combinations of grey and teal carpet. I'll probably do grey for the flat part of the floor, and teal up the sides, but only if I can get a good seam at the transition (which is debatable).
The carpet in the stern on each side of the engine was all crudded up (oil, grease, crap, etc.). I'm toying with the idea of either a) paint it a textured white (probably not gelcoat, but something exterior/marine grade) which would make inspections, etc. a bit easier, or b) rhino liner or something darker and slip resistant. We use some pretty tough epoxy paint in power plant generators (a lot of our guys use the old/leftover stuff for their garage floors), so I might grab a gallon of that and use it (for free!!!). Super durable, too!
I gotta get cracking on this thing. The snow's just about gone here, and kids, house, work is getting in the way...haha!
Jamie
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So, as with all projects on my list...kids, house, work, travel, etc., all make this a slow moving effort. Still crossing my fingers for a mid June LAUNCH!!
Got the new stringers bedded in a couple weeks ago. Should be able to at least get them tabbed in this weekend, maybe even a layer or two of 1700 biaxial (I'm using epoxy). I've got 12oz veil for the top side of the floor. I'll probably roll a coat of epoxy on the bottom side of the deck (even though I'm using 50yr Advantech plywood).
I've got the cleats all the way around the new stringers. Rather than leaving a 90deg angle on the bottom of the cleats (making it tough to get a tight layup when I glass them in), I beveled the bottom edge to a 45deg. Before the glass goes on the stringers, cleats and all joints will receive a nice soaking of thinned epoxy resin just to seal everything up and make them all "one piece".
Sorry for the picture quality. I'll get my other camera out and take a wider angle shot of the entire hull.
Jamie
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what are your plans to tie the new stringers into the engine section to keep the hull nice and rigid? (Not criticizing, just curious!)
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16 gals of resi? you have to be kidding never used more than a gallon. What are you doing?
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16 gals of resi? you have to be kidding never used more than a gallon. What are you doing?
A gal...
Ha
I used 6.5 on the GT
And 13 on the 1900
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And he got it all free! No worries about a budget!
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For the tie in to the good stringers, I created a bit of a lap joint, and epoxied them together. Dead straight all the way front to back. Everything is epoxied together, with SS screws as the initial "clamping" mechanism at all joints.
I've got 20 yds of 17oz biax, for the main layer, but that'll go down after the 18oz 8" tape I'm using to tab the stringers to the original hull. The epoxied glass will help to better resist any water ingress/permeation, and make for a stronger/stiffer hull overall.
Good thing I got 16 gallons. I ran through all of the peanut butter kits just bedding the stringers/bulkheads and filleting everything. I'll probably use a good bit more bonding the deck to the stringers and to the sides when I make up my own peanut butter with Cabosil filler.
After the deck is down, another layer of resin-soaked veil to finish it off and make it nice and smooth. Toying with the idea of painting the topside before I lay down the carpet.
If I was paying for all of the resin, I'd probably go with poly. But free is as cheap as it gets, and if my budget holds up, I'll probably only be into this project for about $3000 (including purchase of the boat!!!). Of course, that's before I start adding any upgrades, etc...which I may hold off on until next offseason.
Jamie
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Quote
"Toying with the idea of painting the topside before I lay down the carpet."
i rolled on 1 coat of grey gel with wax inside the 1900, i really like how it turned out.
not sure if you can gel over epoxy but Red uses 2 part epoxy on the boats he does, gets it from Crown pain (local to him at a good price)
the equiv epoxy was here in MN $120, that's why i used gel.
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I saw that, Deuce...and one of the reasons I'm considering it.
Some of the 19CSS had not carpets at all. I doubt I could get a smooth enough finish, but I may just grab a gallon of epoxy paint just for some added sealing, etc. Plus, if I decide to use snaps instead of glued carpet, simply unsnap the carpet and hose it all down. A nice topside finish will make for easier cleaning, inspection, etc.
Jamie
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Epoxy!
Don't get me started.
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I used two gal. plus on my transom ...
Did you thin the one gal. of resin with 10 gal. of acetone ?
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Nice work Jamie...
its great that you had access to all that epoxy resin at N/C, i would have used that in a heart beat :D
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epoxy resin at N/C, i would have used that in a heart beat
Amen to that!
Argue the pro's & con's of epoxy vs. polyester all you want but at that price ...?
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Stringers are all tabbed in. Should have time to get the 1700 biax laid down by the end of the weekend, then cut out my foam board templates for the new deck. Have to head to Denver on Sun-Wed for work, so by next weekend the floor should be in!! Before I cover it all up, I'll get some pics of the glass work loaded up here.
Making progress...deadline is looming!
Jamie
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So it's been slow going with all of the other stuff that takes over one's life. Work, kids, etc. Oh well! But I'm nearing the end of the big stuff.
Floors are all in and glassed. The "blue" around the perimeter is a filled epoxy I picked up at work for free. It's used in our work for filling large caps at the ends of a generator winding. Once it passes it's shelf date, we have to kick it off and toss it. So I used it to make the transitions from the floor to the walls and hull (especially up front). The original transitions left a lot of low spots and valleys that didn't always lead to the stern for drainage.
To eliminate any penetrations through the new floor, I built up 2 layers of 15/32" of Duratech ply. 45deg taper around the perimeter. Marked out the seat pedestal holes and used 1/4"-20 tee-nuts recessed into the bottom. Then epoxied it to the bare floor, and glassed it all at once. No water getting through toggle bolt holes, etc. any more. If they ever rot (50yr warranty on the wood), cut/grind the bases out and lay in new ones.
Finally I painted the stern and bilge with Rust Oleum garage floor 2 part epoxy paint. Since this is all covered up, I don't need to worry about UV discoloration, etc. I thought about white, but the 1 car garage kit in light grey was only $60. Now I'm thinking about painting the whole interior before I glue down the new carpet (purchased from BoatCarpetBuys.com....and showed up in 3 days!!!).
In hindsight, when this project started, I probably should have just pulled the engine. Sure would've made painting the bilge a hell of a lot easier. I'm sore as hell today because of the contortionist positions I had to maneuver into in order to paint that bilge area!!!
I'll throw another coat of paint on the back tonight. And think about painting the rest while I'm at it. I guess I'm just worried about the adhesion of the carpet glue to the garage epoxy????
Hope to have carpet in this weekend. Then get the front part of the interior in (console, cuddy divider, driver/passenger seats) too. Then get it in the water for a couple test runs before I install the rear seat, etc. Sure makes engine work easier not having that stuff in....ya, know....just in case!!!
Home stretch! This winter I'll pull the wing to send it to a fiberglass guy to have it completely re-gelled (cracking like crazy). Once I get some testing done, then I'll worry about prettying up the rest of the gel finish (wet sand, buff, polish, etc.).
Jamie
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that turned out really nice :)
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Looks great!
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One thing the 19CSS is notorious for is poor fuel filling. Burps and blows back up the fill neck. So I routed the forward vent directly to the port side, rather than all the way towards the bilge, and then to the port side. This eliminates any low spots that prevent proper venting, and I should actually be able to a) fill the tank, and b) not wear any gasoline when filling on the trailer.
Almost there! But thanks for the encouragement, gents!! Lots of tips and advice gleaned from everyone's experience. Once I have a chance, I'll try to do a writeup of my lessons learned, wish I did it different, etc. At least for the first timers out there (like me)!!
Jamie
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Lookin good! Keep up the good work!
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Project really stalled out on me. Life happens, but bottom line is several attempts to get the headliner glued back up all failed miserably. There's a lot of material to hang in these later model CSS's.
Attempt #1 - 3M Super 90 contact adhesive (supposedly for interiors, etc.). By the next day, it was all falling back down. And the boat is in my garage, so temps are not the contributor. I'm pretty sure it is the pure weight of the stock headliner (all in great shape, BTW).
Attempt #2 - Outdoor carpet glue from Lowes - many forum dudes recommended this for the carpet, and the challenge is getting it on an overhead application. So I rolled (thick nap roller) a hefty coat, then used a proper notched trowel to get it spread evenly. Which was difficult. I let it start to set up a bit, because when it's pure wet, it won't hold. I made up several "stanchions" with cross pieces made of thin plywood strips (1/4") to provide some support as the glue set up. I let it set for 2 days with a fan circulating air (it's an air-cure glue after all). Took the stands down after 48hrs, and the next morning, it was all sagging again.
Dammit - what to try next???
So I searched a bunch of upholstery forums, go-fast boat forums (because they got big, long, cuddies, etc.), Hot Rodding forums, etc. I even called a couple local car and boat upholstery dudes. ALL sources pointed to using DAP Weldwood HHR (high heat resistant) Contact Cement. Applying this requires a spray gun (which I don't have), and you can only buy the stuff from an upholstery supply place (none local to me). So I bought a gallon with a pro-grade pneumatic spray gun at www.yourautotrim.com (http://www.yourautotrim.com). It was $70 for both, and can only ship via ground (I think out of OH, so not a far haul). I took off on a biz trip, and by the time I got home, it had been sitting on my porch for around 3 days.
So this weekend I should (fingers crossed) be able to get the headliner up, and the carpet installed (didn't wanna mess with gluing the headliner after the carpet is in out of fear of dripping glue all over it!!!). If all goes well, I might even get the cockpit in and wired up before I fly to Minneapolis for work on Sunday afternoon.
GEEZ! These projects never go according to plan, do they!!!
Jamie
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OUCH !
Do you have to grind out all that old glue now ?
"GEEZ! These projects never go according to plan, do they!!!"
Mine never do ...
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No ones ever do.
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OUCH !
Do you have to grind out all that old glue now ?
We shall see! After the carpet glue attempt, which failed, the surface is pretty smooth (result of using paint rollers to roll out wrinkles, etc.). I'll do a test spot where I can easily continue if it works, or remove it if it don't.
Jamie
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I would try a contact spray made by sta put. It comes in red and clear o have used it for attaching Formica and stainless steel in cabs of elevators. The stuff works great if applied per manufactor.
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Wow! It's been so long, this thread dropped to the bottom half of page THREE! :'(
My headliner install went off great with the spray contact cement recommended by the hot rod and go-fast boat dudes!
Carpet installed, just some minor trimming and tweaking here and there. It was a PITA to do with the top half on. Would be a whole lot easier to install a one-piece carpet with the hull split. So I ended up with a small seam way up in the nose of the bow, but get's covered by a mattress so, no worries.
I need to figure out how best to cover the relocated fuel tank vent line (moved to the port side, instead of the long loop down to the port side of the stern). And then finish the trim/sealing around the raised seat bases I made (eliminated any holes into the hull).
I now have the cuddy bulkhead in, and laid in the cockpit/console. Next up is to hook up the wiring so I can get it running again before installing the rest of the interior (rear bench, coolers, etc.). This way, I can get a load test done to determine if I have any other engine work. When I bought the boat last Oct, we only ran it on muffs. Hope to get it wet in the next weekend or two...'cause the cold weather isn't far off up here.
Jamie
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BACK FROM THE "DEAD"!!!
It's amazing how I made decent progress/speed early on....then, well, LIFE! So here's where I am RIGHT NOW! ON THE WATER!!! I'll have owned this boat for SIX YEARS this October, and it's registered, running and we're using the heck out of it as of about 3 weeks ago!!
As "fast" as the floor/stringer project went early on, the rest stacked up on me.
1) Had to rebuild the Quicksilver controls (gobbed up, dirty grease, so detents, etc. weren't working, plus new Neutral safety switch, throttle only button was corroded, etc.).
2) Replaced all of the gauges with new. But after the helm is installed, it ain't easy to get in there. Ended up with a couple wiring snafus I had to sort.
3) Got it running on muffs, but then had to diagnose a crank-no-start issue....so replaced the engine harness, coil, slave solenoid, etc. Turned out that the lanyard kill switch was wired backwards by some dummy (me!!).
4) Had too much slop in the drive. Turned out to be the pivot pin and tiller arm were corroded. Got a new pin, bushing, seals, bolts, etc., and did a DIY "JR Marine" type of access to replace without pulling the engine and transom plate (that was scary to start out, but no problem)
5) Replaced gimble bearing, all bellows, lower shift cable/bellows, etc.
6) Divorce # 2, but got to keep the house, the boat, the '77 Camaro and my Triumph Thunderbird Storm (he who dies with the most toys wins, right???).
7) Because of #6 above, have had more "free evenings" and weekends to finally finish this thing up!
Sorry to resurrect this one, but I couldn't resist! And really, truly wanted to thank all of you guys for your comment/support on this as I went through it, but also for your own project threads that really helped me figure this one out along the way!
Hope to bump into some of you folks, if'n you're ever around Upstate NY (Sacandaga, Lake George, Hudson River, etc.). And just maybe I'll be able to make it out to the meet next year!!!
Oh! By the way....her names is "It's About Time!!!" Cuz, well, it's about time I got it done. And life is all "about time"....making time, using your time, enjoying your time!!!
Stay Well, Fellas (and Gals)!!!!
Jamie
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Great that you were able to finish up the project and enjoy the results. I had my 91 CSS on the water this past weekend, although not at the convention at Redwing, MN. My outing on Windigo Lake (Hayward, WI) was the first time in 3 years for the boat to be on water. Everything was working well on the boat, as nothing more than servicing the water pump and lower unit oil, was completed prior to using the boat. There was a new battery and new gas filter installed before launching. I will go to the 2021 convention, provided the virus is no longer an issue. I read thru your thread again and the amount of work to rebuild this boat was no small task. Keep boating.