Author Topic: fuel filters, water seperators (Read 16333 times)

Rosscoe · « **on:** August 24, 2012, 09:42:05 AM »

I know some (Doran, Mark S?) of you installed fuel seperators and it looks like you have to use a special type, with metal bowl for "inboard" use. I am wondering what kind you used and if its coastguard approved to use rubber line in the engine compartment. I pulled my 41 year old fuel pump the other day and its the kind with a built in filter and it was full of setiment. Likely rust from the tank. I think I really need to install an inline filter. I'll have to cut the copper line and figure out a way to mount it but I'll also need to use rubber hose and clamps since I have no way to flair the line to hard plumb it.
Any thoughts? Rich, I know you re-did all yours with rubber. Did you go to the carb with rubber as well?

dorelse · « **Reply #1 on:** August 24, 2012, 10:13:41 AM »

Ross - I used marine approve rubber fuel line, replacing the copper line to the engine. I put in a basic inline glass auto filter.

Bayflite73 · « **Reply #2 on:** August 24, 2012, 10:50:36 AM »

I've got this same issue and same job in front of me so excellent timing on the post!

Thanks much and good tips Doran!

Eric_Michael · « **Reply #3 on:** August 24, 2012, 10:52:28 AM »

Here are some pics of the filter / separator I installed in my boat. The rear seat is removed for the install & pictures.

I cut the aluminum plate and mounted it to the very thin board in order to build some structure. I simply cut the stock copper fuel line and added the appropriate fittings. Cutting & flaring was a lot easier than trying to fit on barbed connectors and going to a rubber line.

HTH,
-Eric

dorelse · « **Reply #4 on:** August 24, 2012, 10:54:40 AM »

Here's what I'm using. Costs a whopping $10-12 from AutoZone. I have 2 of them plus a bunch of replacement filters so I always have extras. When I begin to lose power, I'll stop and swap them, then clean the dirty one, replace filter and I'm good for the next swap.

Its a great system, but, after running like this for 2 years now, I'm tired of it. Its no replacement for a clean tank that's for sure.

http://www.amazon.com/Spectre-Performance-2369-Universal-Filter/dp/B0006303QC

Rosscoe · « **Reply #5 on:** August 24, 2012, 10:56:27 AM »

Eric were you able to use a regular flaring tool for home pumbing? I have a couple of those but without looking, I am not sure it goes that small. It might.

Doran I was looking at those and all of them that I saw said "out board only" so apparently there is some danger if having it confined? Leaking? Even the large ones like Eric posted have a different style for inboard and outboard. Outboard you can use one with a clear glass bowl but inboard are metal. I'm really not sure of the concern.

Eric_Michael · « **Reply #6 on:** August 24, 2012, 10:59:43 AM »

Quote from: Rosscoe on August 24, 2012, 10:56:27 AM

Eric were you able to use a regular flaring tool for home pumbing? I have a couple of those but without looking, I am not sure it goes that small. It might.

As far as I know, it was a regular flaring tool. The one which has sat in the old workbench for at least 30 years. Nothing special about it. It was the same one I used when re-doing some copper propane lines on my truck camper. I figured if it sealed good enough for propane that it would be good enough for gasoline....plus no rubber for the ethanol to rot.

Rosscoe · « **Reply #7 on:** August 24, 2012, 11:01:45 AM »

Quote from: Eric_Michael on August 24, 2012, 10:59:43 AM

Quote from: Rosscoe on August 24, 2012, 10:56:27 AM
Eric were you able to use a regular flaring tool for home pumbing? I have a couple of those but without looking, I am not sure it goes that small. It might.

As far as I know, it was a regular flaring tool. The one which has sat in the old workbench for at least 30 years. Nothing special about it. It was the same one I used when re-doing some copper propane lines on my truck camper. I figured if it sealed good enough for propane that it would be good enough for gasoline....plus no rubber for the ethanol to rot.

I'd prefer to stay with the copper, at least going to the filter, then I may go rubber from there to the fuel pump. I like flare fittings better then hose barbs.

dorelse · « **Reply #8 on:** August 24, 2012, 11:12:29 AM »

Ross - yeah, I didn't use one like Eric's. Same concern...not rated for I/O's.

I replaced my copper lines because they were old, corroded and hadn't been hooked up to an engine in years.

Mine's a band aid. If I had an outboard, I'd have done what Eric has in a sec.

Rosscoe · « **Reply #9 on:** August 24, 2012, 11:18:38 AM »

This is what I am looking for and they have both for inboard and out.

http://www.discountmarinesupplies.com/Racor_Gasoline_Spin_On_Fuel_Filters.html

Jerry · « **Reply #10 on:** August 24, 2012, 12:08:46 PM »

That's the one. All the guys on Scream and Fly swear by them.

WetRaider · « **Reply #11 on:** August 24, 2012, 12:53:47 PM »

You shouldn't need any special tool for the copper flaring. Most older refrigerators use to connect their ice maker and water dispensers with something like 1/4" copper. I know my parents have an old swamp cooler on their house in El Paso, there's a small copper line to that as well - maybe as big as 3/8. I remember being a kid and helping out my dad on the roof.

Rosscoe · « **Reply #12 on:** August 24, 2012, 01:09:05 PM »

Quote from: WetRaider on August 24, 2012, 12:53:47 PM

You shouldn't need any special tool for the copper flaring. Most older refrigerators use to connect their ice maker and water dispensers with something like 1/4" copper. I know my parents have an old swamp cooler on their house in El Paso, there's a small copper line to that as well - maybe as big as 3/8. I remember being a kid and helping out my dad on the roof.

Ice makers use compression fittings and I dont know if I am cool with those.

kert0307 · « **Reply #13 on:** August 24, 2012, 01:36:42 PM »

I have the same fuel Doran has right after my tank, then it goes to a fuel water separator like what Eric posted. The separator like what Eric used came with my outdrive setup I think it was stock on the Merc 888s... you can see it in this picture mounted on the "log"

carlsoncvx18 · « **Reply #14 on:** August 24, 2012, 01:50:24 PM »

I have the same fuel/water separator in my boat it was stock with the motor.

dorelse · « **Reply #15 on:** August 24, 2012, 01:54:04 PM »

Yep, me too. You can see where I put the inline glass viewable one in front of the Mercury filter. Once I knew my tank was bad, and I'm told they'll never stop rusting, I put mine in as added insurance.

MikeB · « **Reply #16 on:** August 24, 2012, 02:32:47 PM »

Nice, this is actually a pretty timely topic for me too. Earlier this week I accidentally kinked the fuel line while taking off the carb (the one running from the pump to the carb), so I think I will be replacing the fuel line this weekend.

A couple questions I had:

1.) Do I need to loctite both ends of the new fuel line when I install it?

2.) How do you remove the fuel/water separator? Is it a push a twist type, or is there a separate screw? I'm not sure if I'll need to take the back seat out again in order to get access. I think mine was also stock with the 1980 Merc 228.

fireman24mn · « **Reply #17 on:** August 24, 2012, 02:39:17 PM »

Doran is yours a steel tank? I am putting that in floor tank in the V195 but it is aluminum.

dorelse · « **Reply #18 on:** August 24, 2012, 03:04:40 PM »

It looks Aluminum to me... been a while since I've looked at it though.

carlsoncvx18 · « **Reply #19 on:** August 24, 2012, 03:24:46 PM »

Scott

Hope you can find a fuel line think they are hard to come by.

I would not loctite the fuel ends as they are flared.

The fuel water separator should be a screw on type like a oil filter for a car.