Author Topic: Fiberglass (Read 18089 times)

WetRaider · « **Reply #20 on:** October 15, 2012, 02:04:00 PM »

Here's the photo of mine .... I used a 3/4 piece of oak sandwiched between two pieces of 1/2" oak - chopped strand & resin between the pieces. You can clearly see the difference between the 11-ply and 3-ply.
When plywood is made, the grain orientation is rotated 90 degrees between the plys. This gives the sheet structural stability across its size. The higher number of plys = higher stability (less flexing). When I did my transom, I made it about 4" larger all the way around. Once it was all laminated together, I traced out my shape and cut it down as a whole.

still_fishin · « **Reply #21 on:** October 15, 2012, 02:11:21 PM »

Hahaha, I knew this would turn into a wood "discussion." I know what I used and I obviously would do it again. I've done it twice. Gregg, use what you want.

Jerry · « **Reply #22 on:** October 15, 2012, 05:22:12 PM »

Thank you Jason Great videos.

The longer I do this the more I find everyone thinks they're a marine engineer. It lasted 40 years from the factory not cared for, In another 40 years non of us will give a damn (well I won't) If you want a "bullet proof" transom put a layer of Kevlar (Express sells it) between the layers.
The bottom line is of course It's your boat and your money do what makes you feel good, just don't tell people they have to use Marine plywood. If you think you need more strength you can use Vinyl-Ester resin (just stirring the pot a little more)

PS
Ask Red about removing a kevlar transom. Okie-Dokie had one.

76bayflite · « **Reply #23 on:** October 15, 2012, 05:47:28 PM »

Hey Gregg, I would suggest trying to do it without seperating the deck and hull. That eneded up being a lot more work for very little benefit.

WetRaider · « **Reply #24 on:** October 15, 2012, 05:55:22 PM »

Tim - I thought the same thing as I made my post ...
We should move back to fiberglass, and I'll stick with what I was taught by the guys at express ... chopped strand between your layers of wood, between your new wood transom and the fiberglass skin on the boat, and the 1708 for tabbing the stringers, tabbing in the transom, and any other bend you want some extra strength at.

OleRed · « **Reply #25 on:** October 15, 2012, 06:25:31 PM »

Quote from: WetRaider on October 15, 2012, 05:55:22 PM

Tim - I thought the same thing as I made my post ...
We should move back to fiberglass, and I'll stick with what I was taught by the guys at express ... chopped strand between your layers of wood, between your new wood transom and the fiberglass skin on the boat, and the 1708 for tabbing the stringers, tabbing in the transom, and any other bend you want some extra strength at.

Chopped strand mix between layers, and to the transom shell, harder than a woodpeckers lip

OleRed · « **Reply #26 on:** October 15, 2012, 06:56:51 PM »

I haven't used marine grade plywood for Years, because of the cost, and because it has a lower tensil strength than cabnit grade plywood with equal core value, and I do use the Loc-Tite PL premium polyurethane adhesive bonding the floor to the stringers. As much as I hate to admit it .. the 11 core cabnit grade plywood is made in China, oak finish, is the toughest plywood I've come across, but the USA made stuff is more than adequate for my purpose's. I have taken some pictures to post here on the different wood I have had laying out-side the shop, un-protected for at least two years, the cabnit grade stuff still looks pretty good, the CDX is soaked with water, and is beginning to seperate.
I use the 30 oz stitched mat to tab in everything, stringers, floor, transom, woven roven stitched to bi-axiel, then I over-lay it all with 24 oz woven roven. if I need a smoother finish, I'll lay up 6 oz woven roven over that, works for me, has for a lot of years.

Hyperacme · « **Reply #27 on:** October 15, 2012, 07:28:05 PM »

Good info ...
Thanks guys !
I'm using Green Treated for wood ...

Sean ... Why ?
More info ...

Red...
Link to wood at Home depot ...

Is this it ?
http://www.homedepot.com/Lumber-Composites-Plywood-Sheathing-Subfloor-Plywood-Hardwood-Plywood/h_d1/N-5yc1vZbu0h/R-100046409/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&storeId=10051

WetRaider · « **Reply #28 on:** October 15, 2012, 08:09:50 PM »

Quote from: Hyperacme on October 15, 2012, 07:28:05 PM

Good info ...
Thanks guys !
I'm using Green Treated for wood ...

what what ...

Everything I've read, and I tried to read a lot, says absolutely stay away from treated. The treated has a much higher moisture content and your fiberglass will delaminate from the wood - not only that, but the cured glass will not allow any of that moisture to escape, creating more problems ...

Surely that was a big joke just to jab at everyone (including me) who chimed in on the whole wood issue.

I got my 11 ply cabinet grade at Home Depot, too. The 11 ply, for me, was only available in half sheets and 1/4 sheets. - the full sheets were 5 and 7 ply.

Hyperacme · « **Reply #29 on:** October 15, 2012, 08:14:46 PM »

Yes ...
Green treated was a joke !

scott r bishop · « **Reply #30 on:** October 15, 2012, 09:16:15 PM »

Does anyone want a 4' x 4' slat of marine plywood? I've got one stashed in the back of the van; just enough for a 2 layer transom...

Hyperacme · « **Reply #31 on:** October 15, 2012, 09:44:36 PM »

OleRed · « **Reply #32 on:** October 15, 2012, 10:15:22 PM »

Quote from: Hyperacme on October 15, 2012, 07:28:05 PM

Good info ...
Thanks guys !
I'm using Green Treated for wood ...

Sean ... Why ?
More info ...

Red...
Link to wood at Home depot ...

Is this it ?
http://www.homedepot.com/Lumber-Composites-Plywood-Sheathing-Subfloor-Plywood-Hardwood-Plywood/h_d1/N-5yc1vZbu0h/R-100046409/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&storeId=10051

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100037820&R=100037820

this is the stuff available here, this store stopped handling the China wood .. dang-it

Hyperacme · « **Reply #33 on:** October 15, 2012, 10:19:08 PM »

I'm gonna need new seat boxes also ...
Would be good stuff for them in 1/4 ...

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100073744/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=sandeply+plywood&storeId=10051

OleRed · « **Reply #34 on:** October 15, 2012, 10:43:31 PM »

thats what I used for the back seat in my scimitars, the only thing I avoid id the birch finish, it don't absorb the resin very good to seal it, I use the mahogany or oak finish.

Jerry · « **Reply #35 on:** October 16, 2012, 01:04:42 AM »

Mostly poor ratings and interior grade. use what you want I wouldn't use it unless it was already in my boat. (guess it is)

Rosscoe · « **Reply #36 on:** October 16, 2012, 05:21:52 AM »

I hope all this info has or will get archived somewhere. Its all good to know.

MarkS · « **Reply #37 on:** October 16, 2012, 11:45:06 AM »

Intense (and informative) discussion on passionate subject matter.....

(Sorry, I'm trying to kick the emoticon "habbit", but it just seemed appropriate.)

OleRed · « **Reply #38 on:** October 16, 2012, 12:15:07 PM »

Quote from: Jerry on October 16, 2012, 01:04:42 AM

Mostly poor ratings and interior grade. use what you want I wouldn't use it unless it was already in my boat. (guess it is)

Don't worry Jerry, the only place's you will find that wood in your boat is ...

fireman24mn · « **Reply #39 on:** October 16, 2012, 02:39:02 PM »

Is no one going to stir the pot and ask what kind of resin to use? Polyester or Epoxy?

Sorry I couldn't resist