Author Topic: Homemade Propeller Balancer  (Read 6501 times)

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Offline David CVX-16

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Homemade Propeller Balancer
« on: January 03, 2014, 03:33:00 AM »
There is static and dynamic propeller balancing. Propulsion Prop in Hudson does both. I am working on a bronze prop, taking off quite abit of metal and want to be sure that the prop is balanced. Propulsion Prop charges about $30 for balancing, but I may build a crude device to check the balance of all my props. If a prop is out of balance, the heavy blade will rotate to the bottom. You then sand metal off the back of the heavy blade and keep rechecking until each blade is the same weight. Dynamic balancing checks the balance of a turning prop and that is beyond what I do.  

Here are examples of devices that get a prop to rotate freely. Will probably go with a wooden dowel through the prop shaft hole, with nails on the end of the dowel to enable free rotation on a metal or wooden cradle.  
« Last Edit: January 03, 2014, 05:24:30 AM by David CVX-16 »
David
87' CVX-16, 85' 115 HP Johnson, 58.8 MPH GPS w/ 23" SRX Prop

Offline Retro Performance

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Re: Homemade Propeller Balancer
« Reply #1 on: January 03, 2014, 07:43:33 AM »
David, Are you working on that 21 pitch OMC two blade? Or do you run them stock for a baseline then work them over and run them?

Offline David CVX-16

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Re: Homemade Propeller Balancer
« Reply #2 on: January 03, 2014, 08:22:31 AM »
I am working on Jim Barrett's Quicksilver bronze 3 blade 21" pitch prop bought cheap, but the seller filed the blade edges from the front rather than from the back and I hope to fix that by taking away metal in the front near the edges and generally touch up the prop. 
David
87' CVX-16, 85' 115 HP Johnson, 58.8 MPH GPS w/ 23" SRX Prop

Offline David CVX-16

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Re: Homemade Propeller Balancer
« Reply #3 on: January 03, 2014, 09:33:37 PM »
A 3/4" oak dowel fits snuggly in the prop shaft hole. The prop is free to rotate, and the heavist blade went to the down position. Will take some metal off the back of this blade and keep rotating the blades in various positions until the prop does not rotate. Total cost $4.60. Then polish the prop.   
David
87' CVX-16, 85' 115 HP Johnson, 58.8 MPH GPS w/ 23" SRX Prop

Offline Glastronjohn18

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Re: Homemade Propeller Balancer
« Reply #4 on: January 04, 2014, 06:02:52 AM »
Quote
Total cost $4.60.

Does the $4.60 include the price of the can of Never Dull?
John
'80 CVX 18 - Survivor Class
'78 CVX 18
'76 V 225 -   Bal Harbor
'80 V195XL
'86 CVX 18- And '86 Makes 3

Offline David CVX-16

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Re: Homemade Propeller Balancer
« Reply #5 on: January 04, 2014, 06:40:56 AM »
No
David
87' CVX-16, 85' 115 HP Johnson, 58.8 MPH GPS w/ 23" SRX Prop

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Re: Homemade Propeller Balancer
« Reply #6 on: January 04, 2014, 08:08:42 AM »
Is that prop for an I/O or outboard ?

Offline Retro Performance

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Re: Homemade Propeller Balancer
« Reply #7 on: January 04, 2014, 08:16:17 AM »
What is the typical increase in RPM/Speed after you rework/thin the blades?

Offline David CVX-16

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Re: Homemade Propeller Balancer
« Reply #8 on: January 04, 2014, 11:16:18 AM »
Gregg, it is for Jim's 115 HP Merc.

Don, on the national Glastron site, I did an experiment addressing the subject you mentioned, namely, taking identical props, in my case, two new 22" pitch OMC Rakers, and sharpening the blades on one of them, and leaving the another stock, and then testing them on secret Lake WBL. The one with the sharpened blades was a fraction of a MPH slower, but there are so many variables in a test run that the best conclusion to draw is that sharpening did not seem to help.

I sharpened just the tips. I need to gradually taper the thinning over a large area and that will be another winter project. Then the testing of 5 props at secret Lake WBL this spring.

Performance prop shops that rework props for really fast boats (and the faster the boat, the more worth while to have a prop reworked) check for balance of the blades and the correct pitch on all the blades, just to bring them up to factory standards as they should be sold. But reading an article by the owner of DAH prop shop, the factory quality standards are low, with many factory props lacking on these basic points. Balance is important for the long life of the engine and smoothness.

Then a good prop man knows how to improve the performance by reshaping, thinning, and taking off material in the right places (Allison cut, Bullet cut). I do not claim to know anything about this level, but have heard Steve Smith in Kentucky, the Twin Cities Performance Prop man Dave, and the DAH owner taking about how they can do things to improve the speed simply because they have worked on, say, a Laser II, many times and know the tricks.

But we are still talking only a mile or two of performance gains. Only one of many things to increase speed.    
« Last Edit: January 04, 2014, 02:37:18 PM by David CVX-16 »
David
87' CVX-16, 85' 115 HP Johnson, 58.8 MPH GPS w/ 23" SRX Prop

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Re: Homemade Propeller Balancer
« Reply #9 on: January 04, 2014, 02:09:55 PM »
Will Jim's prop need a lake test (on Lake WBL) this spring ?
You are welcome to use test mule (CV16) if you do need a lake test.

Offline David CVX-16

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Re: Homemade Propeller Balancer
« Reply #10 on: January 04, 2014, 02:31:54 PM »
Your CV-16 to test the unknown prop on a lake might be the ticket before Jim uses it on the river. Then you can also try my 22" pitch 2-blade bronze prop, and lastly get a top speed reading with your 22" Laser II.

   
David
87' CVX-16, 85' 115 HP Johnson, 58.8 MPH GPS w/ 23" SRX Prop

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Re: Homemade Propeller Balancer
« Reply #11 on: January 04, 2014, 02:53:07 PM »
Sounds good ...
All we need now is open water and warm weather, and that's only five months away ...
AAAARRRRGGGGHHHH ....

Offline GCarlover

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Re: Homemade Propeller Balancer
« Reply #12 on: January 20, 2014, 11:43:23 AM »
I had a prop exactly like that on my 115 Merc with 1.78 gears.  It ran 50 @ 5000 if I remember correctly.  I recommend having it cupped by a pro.  Or else it will cavitate on a quick turn.  I did mine with a little heat and the rounded edge on my vise.  Plus you can grind it a the cup because the blades are thick.  I used your method to balance my two blade.  Worked great.  The Johnson takes a 3/4" shaft loose fit and the Merc takes a 3/4" copper tube tight fit. (7/8" OD)  I'm going to put some epoxy around the hub to try and keep it from slipping.  I already put 4- 1/4 screws with a allen head.  It helped some.  I raised my trim tabs.  They were down 1/8".  Hope to reduce the slip percent.  Hope to find some Nevr Dull to keep off the oxidation.  I used clear lacquer in the past.