Author Topic: PLASTIC DASH (Read 18842 times)

Hyperacme · « **Reply #40 on:** December 14, 2015, 08:48:51 PM »

Welcome to the forum Rick !
Hope it works ... almost impossible to find dash in good shape ...

Diamond Chad · « **Reply #41 on:** December 15, 2015, 11:33:49 AM »

I currently have the original, an exact trace, and I am in the process of adding Dimensions . I have found sources for the blanks at $21 for 1/4 and $31 for 3/8 stock. We have about 5 members currently with an interest in getting a new one.

I will definitely reach out to you and share the drawing.

rheine · « **Reply #42 on:** December 16, 2015, 12:11:24 PM »

Fedex Office has a roll scanner. You could have that scanned and I could take that straight into drawing. No measurements needed.

R

dorelse · « **Reply #43 on:** December 16, 2015, 01:12:37 PM »

Quote from: rheine on December 16, 2015, 12:11:24 PM

Fedex Office has a roll scanner. You could have that scanned and I could take that straight into drawing. No measurements needed.

R

That would be a great way to skip all the hand entry stuff!

Diamond Chad · « **Reply #44 on:** December 23, 2015, 02:08:10 PM »

Here is a link to a pdf of the roll scan. The thing the scan does not show well is that I used the line of the paper edge as the zero point for all vertical coordinates. I will see if I can add that line. The drawing was done at 1:1 from a trace of the part. The hole sizes were taken with a digital caliper measure from the actual part. I am going to attempt to build a 3d cad model of the part next. Is there enough there rheine to create a CNC tool path?

cvx18dash PDF

strait from the dining room table.

NOTE: After checking again, I missed the dim and x/y of the ignition key hole. I will add that soon.
WARNING: The 0/0 point is at the lower left corner, and since the part angles up from that point, there is one A hole that has a negative value in the Y dimension.

rheine · « **Reply #45 on:** December 23, 2015, 09:22:25 PM »

Looks like lots of time and dimensioning work. Very interesting. Thanks for the challenge. I will start on this right away. If I enclosed this whole dash in a rectangle what would the width be? I think we will try for a dash blank first in a proto material. BTY, I am not an engineer just like most of you I suspect. CNC is just something I picked up..

Rick

Diamond Chad · « **Reply #46 on:** December 23, 2015, 10:37:52 PM »

start with a horizontal line 53 7/8" long. Then at the center of that line perpendicular, go up 1 3/4 " and make a point. Draw an arch radius from the endpoints of that line through the center line point, and you have a great start. That line 53 7/8" long is the ZERO point for the hole chart and the angles. That was the problem with the scan, you could not see the edge of the paper which was used as that reference line. Because of the flared out angles from that zero point, the blank is 4" longer at the top than at the bottom where we are starting out, so we need a blank size about 57" minimum. Have fun. you can PM any questions.

Diamond Chad · « **Reply #47 on:** December 26, 2015, 10:33:18 AM »

Ignition hole is 0.823" D, which is a loose 13/16. Center point is 3 1/8" up X 26 11/16" over from the zero/zero point.

rayar3 · « **Reply #48 on:** December 27, 2015, 08:36:11 PM »

I might be late to the party, but I've sprayed metallics behind clear plastic and it doesn't look as good as you'd imagine. It's very "2D" without the depth you'd expect. Clear RC bodies are sprayed from the inside, and also I sprayed a set of headlight covers. Came out nice, but not with the depth of the Glastron flake.

Diamond Chad · « **Reply #49 on:** December 28, 2015, 09:56:50 AM »

I was able to edit the PDF scan adding the baseline to the drawing, and the Ignition switch hole dims. if you reload the PDF from the link above it should have those additions.

rheine · « **Reply #50 on:** January 05, 2016, 07:12:36 PM »

Just to keep everyone interested up to date. Diamond Chad has been exchanging information with me to get the dash drawing ready for CNC. The first pass is done and GCODE is ready. We are now checking the drawing against the sample dash to make adjustments. So far it looks encouraging. I see others mentioned LED or custom switch holes and even image engraving. All that is really simple once the first dash drawing is certified. One challenge I have is the cutting over 48" long.

I see I need to add the ignition switch hole.

Rick

rheine · « **Reply #51 on:** January 14, 2016, 01:14:20 PM »

Just a little update here. Testing a reverse sticker for the switch panel

Rick

Diamond Chad · « **Reply #52 on:** January 15, 2016, 09:12:19 AM »

Perfect test fit! Great work.

dorelse · « **Reply #53 on:** January 15, 2016, 10:39:54 AM »

Wow, that's going to be great!

Diamond Chad · « **Reply #54 on:** February 01, 2016, 11:15:25 AM »

Adapting the newer style dash to older CVX-18's: carlsoncvx18 told me that older CVX-18's had an indented dash similar to the CVX-16's. That the dash design we have been working on would apply just to newer models. I bet hyperacme can tell us from the brochures what year they switched.

Well, it seems the hull did not change, mine has the indent behind the dash molded in the fiberglass, and they just bolted an upholstered cover over that area with mounting blocks drilled to support the dash area over the indent. See the picture below. So if anyone wants, we can make this new dash, and document the support cover that goes with it, and you can install this new dash design on an older hull.

Jason · « **Reply #55 on:** February 01, 2016, 12:04:47 PM »

Quote from: Diamond Chad on February 01, 2016, 11:15:25 AM

Adapting the newer style dash to older CVX-18's: carlsoncvx18 told me that older CVX-18's had an indented dash similar to the CVX-16's. That the dash design we have been working on would apply just to newer models. I bet hyperacme can tell us from the brochures what year they switched.

Well, it seems the hull did not change, mine has the indent behind the dash molded in the fiberglass, and they just bolted an upholstered cover over that area with mounting blocks drilled to support the dash area over the indent. See the picture below. So if anyone wants, we can make this new dash, and document the support cover that goes with it, and you can install this new dash design on an older hull.

Very interesting!

CVX Fever · « **Reply #56 on:** February 01, 2016, 01:24:12 PM »

Quote

Well, it seems the hull did not change, mine has the indent behind the dash molded in the fiberglass, and they just bolted an upholstered cover over that area with mounting blocks drilled to support the dash area over the indent.

Makes sense as it would have been very costly to modify or make a whole new deck mold just to change the dash. A big issue with my dash is I can't put new gages in because the cut-out diameters are too small. I suspect something changed in the industry at one point with "standard" gage diameters and that's why Glastron changed the dash in the CVX18. I believe 1986 is when they went to a different style dash.

rheine · « **Reply #57 on:** February 01, 2016, 01:29:44 PM »

I can CNC cut one of those sure enough.

R

Hyperacme · « **Reply #58 on:** February 01, 2016, 01:51:26 PM »

Hard to see but looks like Kip is right about year changed.

Hyperacme · « **Reply #59 on:** February 01, 2016, 01:53:12 PM »

1979 / 1983 / 1984