Author Topic: I got really lucky!! (Read 6878 times)

ems · « **on:** May 23, 2015, 06:54:36 AM »

So yesterday morning I figured it would be a good time to de-winterize ye ol glastrono, I know really late bla bla work sucks. Amazingly fired right up!, and was dumping water out the side of her block. I felt the b20 block up to look for a hole and found a freeze plug had purged. Thinking I was done for, I called shorty. To make a long story short I had too...

It was the second plug in, I tapped her back to seat. I then wrestled all the parts back on and tested.
- no water in the oil
- no water in the plugs
- Solex 44 carbs still suck
- and she's ready for a season of breakdowns, tears and fond memories.

Thank you shorty for your faith,
Get your boat done already!!
And thank you volvo for a properly designed freeze plug, I thought I was skreeewed!!

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Rich_V174SS · « **Reply #1 on:** May 23, 2015, 06:59:46 AM »

If it was winterized why did a plug pop out?

ems · « **Reply #2 on:** May 25, 2015, 07:00:12 AM »

Not sure, shorty said they're may have been enough residual water that didn't cycle through that gave it some pressure, or the RV antifreeze I used was not good enough. My manual stated that after its cycled I am supposed to open the petcocks which I also didn't do. I ran her from bay port to hudson and she didn't leak or seep, so I'm hoping I avoided catastrophe, only time will tell.

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Jason · « **Reply #3 on:** May 25, 2015, 10:30:45 AM »

That was a close one. Sounds like all is ok.

Rich_V174SS · « **Reply #4 on:** May 25, 2015, 11:12:45 AM »

Hence the reason I never run RV antifreeze through a block when winterizing. I run it on the hose and fog the engine out. Open the block and manifold drains to completely drain the engine of water, then manually pour RV antifreeze into the hoses until the engine is filled, undiluted.

ems · « **Reply #5 on:** May 25, 2015, 01:20:17 PM »

and I will forever do the same. It was my first winterization on a new engine and I almost got it completely wrong. Im pretty sure I have exhausted all the B20 options in the midwest by buying this one.

Jerry · « **Reply #6 on:** May 25, 2015, 01:31:53 PM »

RV antifreeze does NOTHING! leave it empty.

Rich_V174SS · « **Reply #7 on:** May 25, 2015, 03:54:58 PM »

"sigh"

It keeps the inside of the engine from rusting and scaling up ! Rust occurs in the presence of air. This is why exhaust risers/elbows plug up with rust after so many years because you can't keep fluid in them to prevent them from rusting.

Jerry · « **Reply #8 on:** May 25, 2015, 04:45:59 PM »

OK if that's what you think

Rich_V174SS · « **Reply #9 on:** May 25, 2015, 04:55:33 PM »

You're buying the wrong stuff

Jason · « **Reply #10 on:** May 25, 2015, 09:28:43 PM »

I do what Rich does too. Never had an issue.

BIGZEE · « **Reply #11 on:** May 26, 2015, 12:24:37 PM »

P.S I WOULD HAVE REPLACE THEM ALL,JUST FROM EXPERIENCE.

ems · « **Reply #12 on:** May 26, 2015, 12:50:52 PM »

all the freeze plugs?

Maclin · « **Reply #13 on:** May 26, 2015, 05:43:57 PM »

Just be sure that DRAINING COMPLETELY before adding anything is part of the ritual.

Plugcheck · « **Reply #14 on:** May 26, 2015, 07:34:57 PM »

I've used the same procedure on I/O's for years. Drain all fuel, add stable to 3 gallons of fuel, put that fuel back in tank. Run engine to operating temp on muffs. Shut down, hook up five gallon pail with hose and valve, support above engine. Open valve, start engine, when down to half gallon left, fog carb intake till it dies. Shut down, remove all plugs/drain. Any liquid left is rv antifreeze. I can see refilling with antifreeze would be good, but empty won't freeze damage either. On the engine side, personally I would not be worried, but the manifolds maybe, both ways have their merits.

dorelse · « **Reply #15 on:** May 26, 2015, 08:08:25 PM »

I used to do the pail to muffs, but later discovered I wasn't getting all the water out, and I was running 6 gallons through. I now follow Rich's procedure.

Jerry · « **Reply #16 on:** May 26, 2015, 09:15:04 PM »

Sta-bil is the worst stuff. I know more people that have had spring time problems after using sta-bil.
Just as a point of information, air does not cause rust, water does.
Do what ya want it's your money to waste.

Plugcheck · « **Reply #17 on:** May 27, 2015, 12:23:38 AM »

I use stabil in larger displacement engines, but not in small engines. Funny, i thought you, Jerry, were the greatest fan of Stabil. Not certain how much water could be left in my SBC, certainly can not be much. Out drive is pulled, hoses are removed. Confident that the amount of water that remains is far less than what it would take to damage the block or heads.

Maclin · « **Reply #18 on:** May 27, 2015, 01:21:20 PM »

Need to watch that pail method, introducing a much cooler fluid can begin to close the thermostat in short order.

CVX Fever · « **Reply #19 on:** May 27, 2015, 04:18:42 PM »

Quote

Need to watch that pail method, introducing a much cooler fluid can begin to close the thermostat in short order.

I say stay away from the pail method altogether. Wonder how many perfectly good engines have been ruined using those systems over the years. Draining a sterndrive is an easy process and it only takes a few minutes.

I follow Rich's method only I skip the RV antifreeze part. Just be sure to stick nail or screw into each drain port to make sure they aren't plugged with sand, muck, ect.