Author Topic: My CVZ rebuild - I have a question/problem thread  (Read 16948 times)

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Offline dorelse

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Re: My CVZ rebuild - I have a question/problem thread
« Reply #40 on: August 30, 2015, 12:18:39 PM »
It was black in the engine compartment and bare fiberglass on the hull bottom. Here's how the factory laid it out:







1990 Sierra 1700

Offline Scott in nh

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Re: My CVZ rebuild - I have a question/problem thread
« Reply #41 on: August 31, 2015, 08:58:01 AM »
Thanks Doran,

I am going to lay it out the same as the factory did.

It will be easier for me to handle the sheets alone that way too.

Now another subject with diverse opinions:

Foam under the floor  or no foam?

Drain holes or no drain holes?

Offline dorelse

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Re: My CVZ rebuild - I have a question/problem thread
« Reply #42 on: August 31, 2015, 09:50:04 AM »
I personally liked having the foam under the floor.  Its more solid and its quieter...but yes, opinions will vary on this one.  Go with what you're comfortable with.
1990 Sierra 1700

Offline Plugcheck

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Re: My CVZ rebuild - I have a question/problem thread
« Reply #43 on: August 31, 2015, 01:14:01 PM »
I have two plywood seams, one 4' from the engine bilge wall, the other four feet forward of that between the front seats.  I used 3/4" tongue and groove so no support required underneath.  I used Marine flotation foam under the sides, and made and glued new rubber supports under my tank.  Good time to work on the belly tank and insure it will last.  A drain channel now exists bow to stern in the center.  I hand fitted all the wood peices before doing any glass work.  Everyone has their own way.  One thing I remember well, fiberglas material is not as flexible as one might expect, I chased air bubbles for a long time it seemed.  My advice, do glass work in small batches, maybe a pint at most, the results are worth it.
Michael
1979 CVZ-18 388 CI Vortec Mouse
1980 CVX-16SS 140 Mercruiser
1979 CVX-16 Johnson 175
2002 Bennington 2275CC 90 Mercury
1985 Intimidator project
1989 Lowe 200 Redneck fishin Toon
2001 Godfrey Sweetwater pontoon 115 Rude

Offline Scott in nh

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Re: My CVZ rebuild - I have a question/problem thread
« Reply #44 on: September 22, 2015, 10:49:08 AM »
So what is the best way to cut the outdrive hole in the transom?

I noticed the two top round corners look like they were drilled with a hole cutter at about a 45 deg. angle?

Offline Plugcheck

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Re: My CVZ rebuild - I have a question/problem thread
« Reply #45 on: September 22, 2015, 12:40:10 PM »
     The top of the "Bowling pin cutout" will need to be ground, filed, or cut to allow the full travel of the steering arm.  If the cuts are made with a saw entirely perpendicular then the steering travel side to side will be limited slightly.  I used some of my porting tools(die grinder) to grind and blend the wood at the top for steering travel.  I actually cut out my opening by marking it and then cutting with a saber saw on a bench.   Doing so allowed me to glass and protect the now freshly cut wood surface when I finally glassed the new transom in place.   A rotozip, router, or sawzall could also be effective at cutting it out I would imagine.   
Michael
1979 CVZ-18 388 CI Vortec Mouse
1980 CVX-16SS 140 Mercruiser
1979 CVX-16 Johnson 175
2002 Bennington 2275CC 90 Mercury
1985 Intimidator project
1989 Lowe 200 Redneck fishin Toon
2001 Godfrey Sweetwater pontoon 115 Rude

Offline 75starflight

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Re: My CVZ rebuild - I have a question/problem thread
« Reply #46 on: September 22, 2015, 01:08:34 PM »
I use a jig saw to cut mine. I went through 4 blades when I cut Phoenix's transom key hole.
1975 v-179 starflite

Offline Scott in nh

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Re: My CVZ rebuild - I have a question/problem thread
« Reply #47 on: September 23, 2015, 09:49:56 AM »
I use a jig saw to cut mine. I went through 4 blades when I cut Phoenix's transom key hole.

I have a jig saw, but was worried about blade deflection.

Also, I cut the new transom plywood with it and used a long, "fine" wood blade, but it was still aggressive and chipped some of the edges - would fine metal blades work better?

Offline 75starflight

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Re: My CVZ rebuild - I have a question/problem thread
« Reply #48 on: September 23, 2015, 09:53:12 AM »
I actually researched what blade would work the best when I did my first transom and purchased one with rather large teeth. I ended up with a nice clean cut but I also did not force the cut and let the saw go at its own pace.
1975 v-179 starflite

Offline Scott in nh

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Re: My CVZ rebuild - I have a question/problem thread
« Reply #49 on: September 25, 2015, 07:14:11 AM »
Now that the transom is in and glass, my attention is back on the stringers.

I am struggling to come up with a decent template.

The open area is no problem, but I can't seem to get a good scribe or measurements under the dash.

I know it doesn't have to fit like I'm building a cabinet, but....

Where did the front of the factory stringer end?

Before, at or after where the front of the bow seat stand meets the floor?

Scott

Offline 75starflight

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Re: My CVZ rebuild - I have a question/problem thread
« Reply #50 on: September 25, 2015, 08:00:09 AM »
the front of the stringer goes all the way to where the floor meets the hull.
1975 v-179 starflite

Offline dorelse

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Re: My CVZ rebuild - I have a question/problem thread
« Reply #51 on: September 25, 2015, 11:35:41 PM »
Lots of pictures in my album... should be plenty of that area I think?

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1990 Sierra 1700

Offline Scott in nh

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Re: My CVZ rebuild - I have a question/problem thread
« Reply #52 on: September 29, 2015, 11:52:22 AM »
Thanks, I finally have a port side stringer that fits well.

The hull layup on the Starboard side is different enough to cause the port stringer to be about 1/4" to high when placed there.

Not a big deal to trim to fit now that I have a shape to use.

Makes me wonder how much gap they left so that one size fits all at the factory....