Minnesota Classic Glastron Forum
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Chippy on September 10, 2017, 10:17:15 AM
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Boat purchased 17/08/19 running pretty well still hit 49 at our 3900 elevation, however intermittent cut out going into reverse. Floor all soft. Years of nicks in hull gelcoat. Top not bad will clean up nice with lots of polishing.
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Started tear down engine out next week. I don't know if the mount for ski bar was factory or not. The base just lag bolted into stringers with removable bars that went towards transom and bolted to tie down bolts was still very solid.
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That's one heavy duty ski bar !
Don't think it came from G/C, Doran would know ...
Little wet sanding, some compound, FI2, wax and she'll be shining like new !
My boat has 40 plus years of nick and gouges in it, but shined up pretty good ...
Your vinyl looks good yet.
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Mine didn't come with a ski bar so I'm of no help. I can tell you that there's hardly any wood where its mounted...so I don't think its factory. It would be no different than any other CVZ/CVX-18...so however they did the CVX-18 is how the CVZ would be...sure blocks a lot of the motor!
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BTW...here's a link to my CVZ rebuild...1000 photos to slog through...but there might be some decent reference photos in there. Mine was in much worse shape than yours.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/xgnpaE0ON4hIOXCK2 (https://photos.app.goo.gl/xgnpaE0ON4hIOXCK2)
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Ok guys got the engine out have a question. The floor and stringers are crap BUT the transom looks good!!! What would you do here? Can I leave this transom in and enhance it, or since I'm this far do I redo it?
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I'm trying to post more pics but it's saying upload ability full? I'm using pics from my iPhone?
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From the pictures the transom looks ok, however, the same can be said of the stringers. IMHO, if I were going to leave the transom intact, I would drill a few "probing" holes to check for moisture. You will be sanding where the stringers attach, so it's easy to check those areas as well. My cvz transom was like new halfway up, bottom half held together with resin/glass.
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Have you poked around below bolt holes ?
Didn't Doran dig out bottom half of his transom and repair with Seacast ?
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Bolt holes were all solid. I'm thinking if I'm doing this I want to be ready for the next 20 years with it. I'm going to do the transom but might rethink the Coosa board as after seeing how well this basically held up with the way the factory did it, i will get many more years with the way this boat will be looked after. It will be interesting to see what the base of the transom looks like next to the stringers.
I really appreciate your guys input.
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Bolt holes were all solid. I'm thinking if I'm doing this I want to be ready for the next 20 years with it. I'm going to do the transom but might rethink the Coosa board as after seeing how well this basically held up with the way the factory did it, i will get many more years with the way this boat will be looked after. It will be interesting to see what the base of the transom looks like next to the stringers.
I really appreciate your guys input.
The only real improvement needed is to seal all the openings with resin (keyhole/bolt holes) once its recut/drilled, so that if there is a leak, water can't get to the wood. That's the thing Glastron skipped...but if it checks out solid, you could still just seal up that bare wood and leave it.
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Little more work completed. You guys didn't tell me how fun getting that gross carpet up is and those huge foam boxes at the back!!! Anyway each motor mount wet but still fairly dense,the starboard stringer at the rear wet but intact. The port side completely black and rotten. Hoping the bottom of the transom ok not at point of getting the stringers out hopefully next week.
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I used a long sawzall blade to cut up my foot boxes. Ended tearing all it it out, transom, floor, stringers. I didn't want a patchwork.
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I agree totally. I'm taking it all out. The foam in the boxes had very little water if any but the foam along the stringers was heavy. Can't wait to drive this thing with the motor freshened up and that weight gone!!! Aaron sent pic of the new emblems being shipped and got the new hatch bolts coming as well. Still need a new vent cover on the one side if anyone sees one please let me know. Aaron has a line on some beautiful aluminum ones that are chromed but they are super expensive a little out of my comfort zone.
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My foam was saturated, each trash bag weighed 50+ lbs. I used the Carlson stickers and buried them in the clear coat. Are you rebuilding the 305 or going bigger, 350, 383, 400+?
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Hi guys got a little further along and have a couple questions if you would be so kind. I have basically all the floor off and the stringers out and motor mounts. I have trimmed the tabbing down to basically the channels on the bottom of the hull. In one or two of the pics here you can see how they left a small gap I would call it right next to the chines instead of going more over and up?
Should I grind these channels dead flat or should I leave a little like a pocket to hold the stringers?
Also I noticed in some spots they seemed to put large globs of glue to build space to make the floor more flush with the chine. On one side at the back there was a 1" strip under this area to make it flush. I'm not surprised just looking for some experience here. It also looked like they had glue the whole length of the stringers to the hull.
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If you can hotsy wash with soap and degreaser, then the original tabbing may be beneficial to leave in place to bed the new stringers into. I would still add at least one layer of tabbing on the new stringers as added measure.
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Thanks for that as the Chanel's I have now are very strong. Need to do some more trimming and grinding but don't have a hotsey after grinding can I clean with acetone ?
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Car wash? Acetone is a fair degreaser, but evaporates rather quickly. Important thing to remember is there can not be any trace of grease or oil when you start glassing the new wood in.
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Slowly making some progress. Decided to use a shop to put composite stringers and a new floor back in as well as motor mounts. Just did a test spot for Suntek and it looks like it will work well. Goes on thick with a little orange peel but can be wet sanded out. Motor has had heads redone but I had to order a new leg. Old leg pinion gear had damage and the plastic water pump had some melted parts. Ordered an SEI upper and lower. Will post when can.
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" Just did a test spot for Suntek and it looks like it will work well. "
Suntek ?
Did a search and came up with window tint ?
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Geez I hope I didn’t spell it wrong. This shop has used it a lot and really likes it. I was told it’s basically a clear gel coat. They just took the oxidization of by light sanding and apply. Then wet sand. The boat had 2 drain holes so we filled the second and there’s no foam in this boat just drainage holes. The transom area had new backing put in for the swim ladder as the original holes missed the wood so I don’t know how the thing didn’t get pulled off! The whole rear of the boat will be skinned in the white gel coat so I probably won’t carpet in the storage areas were I removed the foam boxes.
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Could it be duratec, it’s an additive for clear gel most often referred to as patch booster. It helps reduce the orange peel when spraying clear gel. It seems I did read that you can use it by itself as well.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
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Joe, have you used Duratec? Does it make a major difference in Orange peel?
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Yes I have and it does, I think I mixed it at about 25% I would have to check my notes to know for sure. I think I posted just exactly how I mixed and sprayed everything on the 1900 rebuild thread
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
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Engine cover ready for the new emblems and hatch screws.
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Really need a vent. Anyone have a lead on one or two?
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And my apologies for not clarifying prior. This is Duratech sunshield product.
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And my apologies for not clarifying prior. This is Duratech sunshield product.
The boat looks great! I wish my metal flake was not so faded out to silver in places or I would probably try it this next summer.
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WOW ! That looks GREAT !
Duratec Clear Polyester Top Coats
http://www.expresscomposites.com/?product=polyester-top-coats (http://www.expresscomposites.com/?product=polyester-top-coats)
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The boat looks great! I wish my metal flake was not so faded out to silver in places or I would probably try it this next summer.
Sorry to Hijack,
I bet you could add some pigment into the duratec and spray a couple coats to get the desired blue color. The one or 2 more coats of just clear durance. It is just like applying a candy coat on basecoat/ clearcoat paint jobs.
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When I did ruby I wanted to keep the original red but the red was so faded it looked silver. I added a little red candy to the clear and it turned out really nice. And kept all the sparkle flake. Check out before and after.
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It has been my experience that when a colored metal flake has some silver flakes in it is because someone went too far wet sanding or buffing. Now some jobs combine flakes of different colors with good results, but if most of the flakes are one color with patchy spots of silver, that's how it usually happens. Most won't notice, but if it bothers you, then adding tint to the clear is effective to mask the silver spots. Looks like your cvz is coming out quite nicely, engine cover looks fantastic.
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When I did ruby I wanted to keep the original red but the red was so faded it looked silver. I added a little red candy to the clear and it turned out really nice. And kept all the sparkle flake. Check out before and after.
I had forgotten about Ruby looking like that. That is exactly how the stern of my CVZ-18 looks. Might be a good option for the metal flake and then just repair the yellow.
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So I have not been able to find a new blower vent. Contacted a 3D printer here and looks like I will be able to have a couple made up. I will be dropping off my one intact vent for scanning next week and will update.
Also new SEI leg is in so hopefully start putting engine back in the next week or two.
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" Contacted a 3D printer "
Did he give you a price estimate ?
It will need to be chrome plated also ?
As you know ..Hard to find item ...
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Yup being oil and gas town lots of companies print for them. Cost was better than my time to keep looking. I will chrome myself.
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If they turn out ok, you might be able to make a few bucks by having several reproduced.
I was going to look into 3d printing some, but the nearest printer to me is 150 miles so i haven't looked into it much.
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This forum has been good to me. If they turn out good I will be glad to help others out. Also this is Canada so it will be like paying in Pesos for my American friends here.
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If you get the solid model geometry that would be a huge. Are they going to digitally scan a good vent? We have a 3D printer at my work.
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Dropped off the vent to be imaged at the prototype shop. They tried to upsell me making it out of some crazy strong carbon plastic but I went with a cheaper but still stronger than original. They said will have a vent done for me to approve next week. They are working on making the posts or stand offs stronger than original. Pic of miniature motor block just one of the things they showed me to get an idea what they can do. Primarily work for oil and gas industry here.
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Motor ready to go back in I hope my remote filter clears the hood. Leg went together good.
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Looks nice, not sure on the filter clearance. Should be ok, but I wouldn't slam the hood down first time. Looks like great progress, when are you expecting to splash?
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I would agree on the filter location and it might not clear. On the other hand every time you change it you are going to split all the oil out of the filter. Is there a was to mount it upside down so the oil would remain in the filter when changing. Maybe mount it to transom or engine side panel once the engine is installed.
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Oh it will be in the water for May long hopefully if the ice comes off here. As for the remote filter yes I totally agree the upside down version better I have had them on my Nautique tournament boats over the years which are PCM. this is a Mercury part. I can drop it down a bit yet for sure. I’m pretty good at setting up to minimize mess on oil changes I also have a quick drain hose on the pan to pull out through the drain plug.
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Motor back in and leg on. Dragging home and start putting chrome and interior back in. This is so much more fun than tearing it down!
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Did your Z come with a merc 228? Noticed the qjet, but curious if still a 305? Really looks great, shouldn't be much longer before your in the water.
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Thanks and yes 228. I’m fortunate that the family owns a boat shop and has let me work with a mechanic to do this part of the project. He’s a really nice guy and kept saying he had not remembered some things as not work on a motor like this in 30 yrs. All new stuff now. Haven’t really posted till motor back in but been working on new seat frames and some other things. Weather is supposed to finally break here so will be working on it every day off.
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" This is so much more fun than tearing it down! "
Aint' that the truth !
Looks GREAT !
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Weather been good seats made just sealing them up prior to covering.
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Any status on the blower vent?
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They had a problem printing the vent but were doing another one on a larger better machine. Should be ready by now. I will post when I get it back.
While Apholstery being done decided to tackle my crappy trailer changing it from rollers to bunks till I find a better one or something. The rollers too hard on the hull. But at least now I can re gel the hull and it should stay good.
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They had a problem printing the vent but were doing another one on a larger better machine. Should be ready by now. I will post when I get it back.
While Apholstery being done decided to tackle my crappy trailer changing it from rollers to bunks till I find a better one or something. The rollers too hard on the hull. But at least now I can re gel the hull and it should stay good.
Wish I had one of those lifts!
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Lifts have come down in price over the years, you can find them new for $2500, used in the $1k range. Seen plenty go at auction for decent prices as well.
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Very nice. Can't wait to see the new vents. You can pencil me down for a pair
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Finally got a vent printed and will be cleaned up and sent to the chrome guy. I don’t know if this printing will be good enough after cleaning up some of the edges but we will see. They take 36hrs on the printer.
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Wow.there it is. How much was it so far. The plastic looks stronger and vent looks narrower but it ust ight be an allusion because there's no chrome
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Size just illusion just gotta get it to chrome guy now see what he can do. Plastic is new type not brittle made out of same as pop bottle will resist bumps better but chrome probably not. Might try to wrap it first?
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So how much was it so far. I know of a good cheap chrome place
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Pardon my ignorance, but how do you 'chrome' plastic?
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New machine/ technology they can now Will post when. Done see how turns out. Seats still with shop for new vinyl putting carpet in a PIA!! Vinyl is satin white with carbon weave accents.
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Are you putting in access ports to the fuel tank? Never had(yet) any leaks or gauge issues up front, but I did have to repair the fuel connections in the rear.
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Yes pics pre cutting the carpet for the access ports. They are cut in the floor. Going to run the wires from the new fuel sender up and out the cover for hoses coming out of tank around the bow into the gauges. From factory they had drilled a small hole going through a stringer on the starboard side under the floor then up to the gauges. I hope the wire run not to long going around the bow.
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I drilled a 3/16" hole in the floor close to the fiberglass support, just ahead of the kick panel. This puts the wire just inside the stringer, and its convenient to wire to the gauge. Longer length of wire should not adversely affect the gauge reading, but don't expect any real accuracy due to the float and fuel level line in the tank. I've found that when my gauge becomes motionless on "E" I have about 8 gallons left. I could pull the sender and add a longer rod to the shaft, but not sure its worth the effort. I'd really like to add one of the fuel counters/meters, Faria had one, but I cant seem to locate one, and my dash is somewhat full now. New project is likely to be FI, so I can pull that data from the engine CPU.
Your project is looking gorgeous, hope you get it out on the water soon.
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Thanks for the info.. I hope to get the interior back soon and will get it on the water by end of June for sure! Wife freaking out a bit as I told her it was a 3yr project lol.
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How's progress going?
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Thanks for asking about my progress. Life and my own slowing down to do things the best I can not helping. Got the imperfections out of the wind screens some of the Apholstery starting to trickle in. Wife not impressed with me sitting on bucket to be able take it for spin which I was very happy with runs strong and very smooth. I just had to get the compliance label back on it!! Made new footrest and got some 8.8’s and the amp mounted up as interior trim goes on next and then seats.
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Pics
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You're moving right along, good progress. The vents look good, are these the final product?
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Vents are final product for me at this time I’m into them for 275 bucks and was not happy with the digital piece, my chrome guy cleaned it up quite a bit and the camera does not catch the imperfections as well as your eye. Is it good enough yes, am I satisfied no. I would like to try this again but do not know if another company can do a better job and the scanning and printing time is what costs. The chrome part is easy.
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Finally got a chance get out on water sitting in the seats. Just working on Fabbing an aluminum cage around motor to mount the ski pole and storage area partitions. Cage will also hold up the one side of sun pad.
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Flipped them, for ya ..
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Thank you sir!
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Looks great!
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Guys I’m thinking of changing out this cheap looking steering wheel. This is original rack what do I need to know for a replacement. I can buy a Grant or something but would like an original wood one some of these came with but haven’t seen one in really good shape for sale?
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Really? I was just looking at that steering wheel thinking that was unique. I've never seen a wheel like that. Looks cool to me. Maybe you can replace the vinyl with a different material? Otherwise, if you do remove it, offer it for sale on here.
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Yep .. First thing that caught my eye was your wheel, kind of cool.
Any idea where it came from ? Think I've seen similar style wheels in Glastrons.
Ray has some in varies conditions … Gil refurbished one for his boat, sanded wood and re-stained.
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Nice job on the resto, interior looks great! That steering wheel doesn't belong in that boat, it's out of a 80's Glastron SSV. Not sure show it got there but the rest of the boat looks so good I'd do it justice & put a proper "Carlson" wheel in it.
(http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l93/blinddate/00o0o_ks4uEphy18Y_600x450.jpg) (http://s94.photobucket.com/user/blinddate/media/00o0o_ks4uEphy18Y_600x450.jpg.html)
(http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l93/blinddate/cvx18dash-1.jpg) (http://s94.photobucket.com/user/blinddate/media/cvx18dash-1.jpg.html)
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Thx for the replies guys. I don’t know if it came that way or the previous owner changed it. There is some nice aftermarket but don’t know what hub size / type I need if I don’t find a proper one.
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I think most are keyed with a taper shaft.
Remove it to be sure.
Older would have been hex shaft .. I think ..
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Thank you for the pics. That black one with the steel spokes is what we had on our original CVZ I would definitely go for one of them if I find one.
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Hello folks I have not been here awhile hope everyone is doing well. I hope to start posting again with spring here and finishing up a little more of the boat. Today I worked on putting the hood back together complete with the awesome badges I received after being helped were to get them by members here. I also modified a billet ski pylon cover to make it a little more finished looking. I am working on the partitions between the motor and storage areas with aluminum and removable panels for maintenance.
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Looks great! Keep going!
I'm re-energized to work on mine too and trying to have it wet by the 4th of July!
What is left to do on yours?
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looks great! love the Emerald Mist color!
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Clean up the hull from the rub rail down clean up the bars and re install. working on the partitions between the motor and storage as I did not put float boxes back in. It’s gonna be done by last 2 weeks of July this year. There’s always more to do, I want to change out all the old gauges to new I’ll just wrap the existing wood grain panel in a brushed aluminum or something as the wood grain looking out of place now.
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Small changes to the original design reinforcement added (aluminum 90) at back of boat for new SS piano hinges so sun pads open from the interior of boat rather than back. I think the original opening made people lean on the hood more often than not trying to get in there.
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Rear
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Hood up
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looks great!
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Finally had the boat out on the water today runs real good. I think this leaky trim pump needs changed out? Are new ones available or do I send this one to someone who can make them like new? As you can see my sun pads are strong, you can see how I made an aluminum frame that comes apart without tools it’s just held together with bolts and wing nuts with a black plastic center filler which comes out without tools as well for ease on maintenance. The whole back of the boat including the back seat is all removable without tools.
The sun pad divider frame clamps onto 90 degree tabs I made bolted into that piece of 1/4” aluminum that covers the floor of the back of the boat. That piece of aluminum sits on top of the boats motor mounts with the engine mounts sitting on that. It sandwiches the plate which extended to the outside of boat giving me a flat floor for mounting options like the divider frame. The trim pump I just put on a piece of wood for ease of moving it around to refill periodically but wanna mount permanently soon.
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There is not much to the trim pumps. Just o-rings. I’d pull it out, take it apart, clean it out real good, put in new check valves and seals.
I like the way you did the back seat. I’ve been wanting to do something similar with the CV23.
Beautiful pictures by the way! Thanks for sharing:
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Thanks for that info, it’s pretty unsightly but works, once I get it shaped up I will fab up a panel to hide it at the back there and storage compartment will be clean. Polishing hand rails up to go back on in the next couple of days.
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Looks kind of cool without the railings !
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looks great! Congrats!
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Hmm. Put cleats were rail mounted rather than rail back. Food for thought.
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Personally, I like the rails...gives some curves and accentuates the lines of the boat. But hey, its your boat!! If you like them off, leave them off!
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If there nothing to grab when your docking .. First thing people will grab is windshield !
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Took to heart the grabbing of the windshields as well as don’t mind the rails. Off to the Gel coat guy we go. He’s going to change out the rubrail and finish the hull. Next pic it should look like 1980 again.
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Gel coat work started.
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Also my apologies I don’t know why my pics always get turned sideways when I post here.
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Fixed !
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Thank you sir. Shop sent this one today looks like they making decent progress.
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Enjoying the boat couple little things I want to still do but at a good spot in the build at this point
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Time to start enjoying all the hard work !
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Nicely done restoration, really like the lift. You may have stated before, but what lake is that?
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Never did state the lake but it’s callled Kalamalka in Coldstream BC Canada. The boat is basically the Emerald green like the lake. Not a coincidence. The lift is old but still good.
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It's beautiful!! :-*
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Beautiful! Very good work!
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Thx guys I appreciate the comments as I have never took on such a project. Regarding the vents the one I had digitally printed in plastic is just not good enough, I either need to find another very good shape original or want to get a set made out of aluminium. I had been in touch with Aaron in Germany as he had sent me a video of an aluminum set that was absolutely spectacular but the guy won’t reproduce for only one set. I don’t know if anyone else wants to try and get a larger order together that might prompt him or someone else to do these. I do t know could they be cast? Rather than milled out of Billett?
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Couple pics from last week
https://share.icloud.com/photos/02WUoxs2qW3DNdeAyB-5hHavQ
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beautiful boat. I really need to get back to my CVZ-18 project. But it needs to quit raining first.
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Still up and running and improving things as I go.