Minnesota Classic Glastron Forum
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: robertv17 on September 28, 2017, 04:20:48 PM
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Hello everyone,
Starting on rebuilding an Intimidator I just bought. Previous owner had let it sink at the dock, so I am ripping out the wet floatation foam, and will be checking stringers and transom for rot. There was a poor floor and stringer repair done, so I am expecting some rot going on.
Was wondering if there has been any intimidator rebuild shots that could be re-posted? (Tim's intimidator comes to mind) That would be helpful for me to see how others have handled this task.
Here are some shots of my boat, and progress to date.
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I'll dig the pictures out tomorrow
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I got a few of them ... But some come up with no third-party hosting thing just like on the web
Got kind of sidetracked ... my daughter just had a baby ...
Will look back and do it tomorrow
I'll try to repair Tim's intimidator thread with pictures .
And ...
Welcome to the forum !
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That would be great !!! I took apart that center stringer sandwich repair mess.....center stringer totally rotted. I expect side ones will be gone too. The tearing apart has just begone I think. I'm aftraid things will look a lot worse before they start looking better .....
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They always do.... But it's always worth it.. Before and after picture.
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Very nice indeed.
Thanks for the encouragement.....It's a bit overwhelming at times, but , what choice do you have? Leave the rotten wood in there? I think not!!!!
I guess the motto will be "take your time and do it right the first time". I hope I can live up to that one.
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Photobucket is a nightmare ...
I'm going to repost Tim's stuff here, as I can only add four pictures per post on his old thread ...
SO ...
Tim's Intimidator rebuild ... http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=2985.0 (http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=2985.0)
Between yesterday and today I glassed my stringers and transome together, bedded my transome, bedded my stringers, replaced rotten wood for the rub rail (about 3 feet on each side), replaced the wood backing for the transome tie downs, and tabbed in all the stringers. Might be more All in all, a very productive weekend.
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Very nice indeed.
Thanks for the encouragement.....It's a bit overwhelming at times, but , what choice do you have? Leave the rotten wood in there? I think not!!!!
I guess the motto will be "take your time and do it right the first time". I hope I can live up to that one.
I have been working on and off on my CVZ-18 for the past five years. I have the new transom and main stringers installed, but i still need to install the bulkheads and short front stringer.
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Pictures #2
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Pictures #3
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Picture #4
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Thanks Gregg for re-posting.....I know its a hassle, but for me, any pictures and experiences by others is gold.
I notice in my internet searching that nobody seems to split the Intimidators, and pull the cap off. I wonder why? Working at the back of the boat there are side pockets which may be a bit awkward to get into and repair the wood backing for the rub rail. Is there anything difficult about splitting an Intimidator, perhaps why nobody seems to do it?
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I split my CVZ-18, but had to support the sides before fitting and glassing in the stringers, transom, and floor. My overlap, gap, or whatever folks call it, the point where the top and bottom meet, was comprised of rotten wood, patches, and 20 lbs of several types of RTV sealant. In my case I felt the need to do it, but some folks do not have these issues present, so they leave the cap on. I own a red 1985 Timi that will require a full resto, I just have not gotten too far yet. It is torn down however, and split. My gel is in horrible shape unlike yours which appears to be fairly intact. Another possible reason may be when split, you now occupy twice as much area, and some folks have limited space to work with. As for your project, tear it all out, I wouldn't trust that patched center main stringer. Regardless of the model, the process is nearly identical, so many of the resto threads on this site are applicable to your project. Looks like you have a good start, keep the faith!
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oh ya, that center stringer was mush !!!
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The reason I didn't remove the cap is that my cap had some pretty bad cracking through the gel and the glass in born corners right being the rear seat. I didn't want to risk the front and back sections of the deck breaking into two pieces. It would be a significantly easy build with the deck removed. If you do take the deck off make sure you measure the width of the seam at thewindshield so when you replace the bulkhead in in front of the captains seats you cut it the right width.
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oh ya, that center stringer was mush !!!
Is that composite decking?
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"Is that composite decking?"
It sure looks like it ...
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I think so !!!! the guy said he replaced the center stringer....I beg to differ !!!! I suppose it is buyer beware, and when you buy a 33 year old boat, well, what can you expect I suppose. I didn't spend a lot of money, and now I have an opportunity to do better. Should be a great learning experience, and hopefully make some friends along the way.
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Yep, from Home Depot. Got the same stuff at my cabin, in brown. Same edge radius and wood grain anyhow.
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NICE !
Composite stringer ...
LOL
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and the transom looks rotted to me.....photo does not really show it, but that digging is at least an inch or thick deep.
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Seen plenty of transoms like that before. The fiberglass seems to provide an illusion that everything is OK, much like stringers, but the wood is all black and spongy. Time to tear it all out.
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yep, time to get the chisel and mallet out, and go to town.....Will be nice once everything is out, and all is prepped for the rebuild to start....this stage is a bit depressing.
Do anyone have any experience (good or bad) with the use of Seacast material for transoms and stringers?
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I've not personally used seacast, but several folks have with good results.
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My transom was rotted where they screwed the speedo pilot tube in.
Mush ... removed it with just my hand !
Ron did his with composites.
Ron's CVX16 project
http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=6488.msg94136#msg94136 (http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=6488.msg94136#msg94136)
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yep, that's pretty much the same location where I started digging into it.
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There was a crack (white line) in fiberglass, ripped it off and found rot ran down to hull and across to drain tube.
Was also rotted behind floatation foam box on left side, could remove with just my hand, but foam was dry ?
Diamond Chad's thread ...
http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=5388.0 (http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=5388.0)
More info ...
http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=6790.0 (http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=6790.0)
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Those are great threads you attached, with lots of good information, thanks Gregg!!!
Gonna take me a while to strip all the mechanical out of the boat, probably also have to remove the gas tank. The good news is that this work can continue, even though the weather will start to turn cold up here in North Bay, Ontario.
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I gutted mine over the winter, would work about an hour at a time in unheated garage.
Thankfully winters are nine months long in Minnesota ... LOL