Minnesota Classic Glastron Forum
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Hyperacme on July 07, 2018, 08:44:24 PM
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Been getting water in hull, lots of water, up to floor after an hour.
Replaced fancy drain plug with old style brass tube / plug setup, now leaks just as bad if not worse ...
Entire inside of deck to hull is fiberglassed together, 3M 5200 bead around all rear trim pieces (pic # tr10)
When I mounted motor, splash well compressed and drain plug seal broke, might be letting water in ...
I'll need to pull motor to replace, theres only about a half inch between motor and drain plug (pic # tr4) you can see the tip of a screwdriver in middle of picture.
All old / unused holes for speedo and old steering setup were filled with resin.
Other area is the plates between motor and transom that keep motor away from drain so splash well will drain.
Theres no way to seal large cut outs in plate (pic # tr2), although not sure how waters getting in, as holes in transom were coated with resin before mounting motor ...
Thinking about getting some 2-1/2" Setback Fixed Jack Plate by T-H Marine to seal better (pic #fixedJackPlate) ..
Still not sure how that much water could be getting into hull from such small openings ?
Might be a hole in hull under bunks ... But not likely ...
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You can see how the set back wedges have slots that are hard to seal with sealant.
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Frustrating I imagine. Could you bow up the trailer and fill with water from the garden hose? Maybe see where water comes out? 2nd idea, roll up paper towels and tape to the transom at various penetrations, then check to see which ones get wet? I knew your old plug setup leaked, but the old style are pretty foolproof. Couldn't be leaking around it maybe?
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That's bad to hear Gregg and the boat looks fantastic, so clean and well loved!
What's that hole at the top mounting plate on tr2 just below the top right securing bolt? is that just in the top plate or is it deeper and not closed off enough?
Best
Mike
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I’m betting it is a pretty easy fix. Lift that motor off, pull those plates, and I’m guessing an old mounting hole opened. Flexing of these transoms has to happen a bit with the strain they must be on at times.
Put a nice patch on under that mount, the engine will hide it.
Best of luck.
David
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Hi Gregg,
I'm surprised you don't got and have a transom plate made like mine, high grade, highly polished marine grade stainless, they look great and are easy to polish, they also and more importantly reinforce the transom by spreading the load, they also allow you to cover what you have there behind from previous mounting systems at the same time as allowing you to totally seal the transom at the mounting points. Mine has a decent sealant behind it and not a single weep ever from the transom, even with the pressures it gets from that motor I have,
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Mike … I'm going to local lake and back in slowly … Good idea about taping towels to side where deck / hull / rub rail join, only place that's not glassed / sealed, just old foam tape between them. I had to file down drain plug hole to get tube to fit, filled with sealant and compressed with Joe's tool. Can't believe it could leak there … BUT who knows …
Dave …
New transom wood and all old holes in hull were filled with resin and new holes drilled, then thinned down resin was applied to new holes.
Funny thing is … When I got the boat there were still old mounting and T&T bolts under new motor and didn't leak a drop !
See picture # TTmb2, red arrows are old T&T mount bolts.
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UKMike … Yes thats a hole in plate ... there is no hole in hull behind it ..
Plates are wedges and can only go on one way, so slots on one side and holes on the other side.
Hard to fill slot side with sealant.
Not sure how that much water can get in thru there …
I do have a transom bar on splash well side to cover old Merc thumb screw mount scars.
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I have a suggestion that you might laugh at but there is reasoning behind it.
Take the boat to the lake, don't drive it, just anchor up and see if you get water as before.
If you don't then you know the water is coming from the mount plate or the splash well. If you do still get water you know it's from below the water line. ;)
Then you will know where to look next.
Best
Mike
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One other thought is when was the last time you checked the seal on your bilge pump outlet? I have to replace mine last year as it was the original and was weeping under certain conditions, "when I was taking right hand turns at high speed. I don't know where your outlet is but it's worth considering.
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And looking at your pics Gregg I can't understand why you have needed to move the mounting plate further away from the transom, I understand what you are saying about the splash well water draining but most if not all of the mounts have a hole in them to allow the water to discharge from the splash well, doesn't your mounting unit have that hole?
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You have a great setup but why do you have the fuel bubble in the splash well? Why not mount it under the splash well? What's the benefit of having it externally?
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Wild thought - would the spray from a pressure washer used at various locations on the boat duplicate a water leak?
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Does it leak while sitting still, no movement? Could it be your speedo tube?
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We had a speedo tube leak in the CVX-16. Took 2 of us to find it. 1 driving at speed, the other crawling around the floor looking. Since no apparent cracks, we thought it was splashing under the cap. Amazing how much water can pour out of cracked speedo tube.
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UKMike …
I'm going to bring boat to local launch and slowly back it into water to see what happens.
No bilge pump or fitting …
After lifting my motor, the transom clamp was "Smashing" rear trim piece.
And ...
The splash well drain tube is plastic, so with motor lifted it makes a pretty tight seal. I thought it was the large tilt cylinder that was up against it , but after looking closer it a plate that runs across .. Splash well would drain. but very slowly …
My fuel line is copper and runs from tank to splash well, with fitting thru splash well connected to rubber line. I would have to redo everything to place primer under deck. Almost every out board I've ever seen has had the primer bulb in splash well ...
Tim & Chad …
New tube … But worth looking into …
Dave …
I'm thinking water is getting in along rear trim pieces, running down to where rub rail / hull / deck join and coming out there.
Yep … Hose would work well for this test ...
Wish there were a hole in hull … Would be much easier to find & fix !
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Took hose with spray attachment and squirted side trim and upper trim (Rtrim & Ltrim) for a good five minutes per side …
NOTHING ! DRY !
After replacing transom .. installed splash well drain fitting, after mounting motor, smashed transom wood and glass and broke seal on fitting .. SO …
I wedged a screw driver between splash well drain and motor, put sealant around fitting and hammered it tight with socket and rubber hammer. Can't get any sealant on outer fitting because motor is in the way … Temp fix until I pull motor and do it right ...
The aluminum trim piece under motor could also be leaking, but waiting until sealant dries on fitting in splash well drain before squirting water in that area.
First time I mounted motor, without wedges to keep motor back from drain, motor mount was pushing on trim piece and could have broke seal there also.
Still don't understand how that much water could be getting in ..
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Tim & Chad …
New tube … But worth looking into …
Yep and a mouse can chew a hole in a new one just as easily as an old one. Happened to my dad's Glastron X16. I'll assume the boat was fine last season.
I think I'd start by figuring out if the boat takes on water while at rest, while underway or both. Then go from there.
I'd also stick a a bilge pump with an automatic float switch in it. Some of the best money you can spend on a boat IMHO.
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Kip ..
It has leaked since replacing floor and transom ..
My speedo is about 1 mph different from GPS, wouldn't a hole large enough to fill hull affect readings ?
Worth looking into though, pick up is on motor so can just pull it off before launching, and see how it helps …
Kind of weird .. After a short time (10 to 20 min.) water gets up to top of bilge bowl and never gets any higher (hours later) ?
No visible signs of water coming in from sides or any where around transom ?
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I'll be at the meet Wednesday afternoon, I could help if you like. Water gets in while sitting, but only fills to a given level and no more? That's quite odd. As for bilge pump and auto switch, best money I ever spent!
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Kip ..
It has leaked since replacing floor and transom ..
Sorry Gregg - I thought this was something that just became an issue this year. If you float it off the trailer and just let it sit at a dock does it still do this? That would tell me the water has to be coming in somewhere below the water line. I'd think you could rule out the hull/deck joint then.
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Thanks for offer Mike .. Hope to have it fixed by then ... LOL
Everything is dry from yesterdays inspection / water test.
Going to jack boat off trailer and inspect under bunks, if no visible damage, then I'll fill hull with water and look for leaks.
Confused to say the least !
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Crawled around under boat today and found this …
Must have cut to much when removing floor. Weird how there round, no screws there ?
If what you guys were saying about the amount of water that could leak from a speedo tube is true, this would be the problem.
About the same size as a speedo tube hole... Water would quickly fill to this level then stop.
Fingers crossed !
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Glad you found it Gregg!
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I have resin cloth and gelcoat in stock
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This has to be it !
There's no way it's getting in thru anything on transom …
I squirted some sealant into it as quick fix, after Red Wing I'll grind it out and repair right.
Need to add gel to keel, it down to glass after 40 plus years of beaching ...
My bottom looks like 10 miles of bad road !
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Good job Gregg!
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I hope !
I used a Oscillating Multi-Tool to cut floor out, wood sat in pocket formed by chime, no screws .. Just glassed in ?
Air pocket in fiberglass ?
There round holes, not cuts from saw or grinder ?
Oh Well as long as it's fixed and not leaking !
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Maybe it was prior damage that had been covered over...that's some stress cracking there too!
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OK close up .. Fiberglass is cracked also ...
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Wondering if I should lay another layer of fiberglass over area ?
Or add some knees ?
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If you can sure. I'd also dig out your caulk temp fix and shove some of that kitty hair up in there and over the missing gel...you can sand it down and clean it up this fall...the goal is water tight for now.
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Gregg - Looks to me like someone ran a drill bit through it from the inside out. Those holes aren't from a multi tool. That Marine Tex two part epoxy is the $hit, use it all the time to fix stripped out screws in fiberglass and wood. Fill it with that, call it good!
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Glad to hear you located the problem, but not sure how that could have occurred. Looks like a drill bit went through.
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It's such a clean hole, both are in fact.
Has to be drilled ..
Weird !
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Considering where they are, I wonder if someone previously just leaned on a deck screw too long with a driver and pulled the threads they cut right out? Looks like you found a winter project. The dark color around the damaged area looks like the compound created by water interacting with resin, same as with osmotic blisters. A little water and a brush will clean it out. You might consider a layer or two inside to strengthen the area to prevent new cracks forming in the new gel coat. At least the mystery of where the water came in is solved.
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Would have been nice if this was discovered while you were redoing the floor and stringers.
Remember several years ago I was boating on the St. Croix with a puncture hole in the hull from a trailer roller support turned at a wrong angle. I was lucky to make it back to shore. Fixed by White Bear Boatworks from the outside of the hull and gel perfectly matched. Cost quite a bit though.
So happy for you Gregg.
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Last time I crawled under hull to wash & wax, which was after repairing floor and transom, I don't remember seeing holes and gel chipping which are fairly large, about the size of a dime.
I could have missed the small drilled holes, but not the dime sized gel chips. So think there fairly new ..
Now I'm conserned with fiberglass cracking around area .. Talked to my glass guy and he though another layer of glass over floor would help.
Don't know .. whole thing is just weird !
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For sure you'll want to strengthen the floor back there.
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The Mighty Mariner must have to much power … It's rippin' the hull apart !
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How big are the holes Gregg?
You don't think someone has previously had scoops added for fresh water flow to an internal tank for keeping fish alive? I've seen them before at about 1/4 OD with chrome mounts, one faces the bow and the other the stern and that gives a great flow of water to an internal tank, whatever the size.
Just a thought..
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Hole's are about 1/16 inch or less (about 1mm) ..
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Honestly, just just looks like someone did some bunk work and drilled up through the wood into the hull to me...
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Weird … No reason to have a drill any where near that spot ..
SUPER happy that I found cause … I HOPE !
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Having magnified the images you have supplied, it looks to me like these were old holes. If you enlarge the images digitally, the area around the issue looks like there are hairline Gel cracks, running directly at the hole locations.
Glad you have caught it Gregg, just really surprised to see it on such a fantastically beautiful and well loved boat. I'm still in admiration as to the cleanliness and quality of your boat.
Best
Mike
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One other thing to note is that the holes are at the 12 O'clock position equally, and the loss of Gel coat seems proportionally similar.
:-/
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I'd also bet that when you grind the Gel coat back around those areas you will find that the glass under the Gel coat in the areas further away from the open area are a much lighter colour.
Best
Mike
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Hope you get it sorted m8!
Best
Mike
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My theory is ..
Boat never leaked until I redid floor and transom.
After removing floor, and grinding out resin on hull, I opened hole's that was drilled into hull when boat was built.
Gel covered hole on bottom of hull. after removing floor I disturbed resin around hole's and gel chipped off bottom.
Or ..
I snuck out to garage one night and drilled two small holes in hull, knowing it would cause me hour's of head scratching and anguish ..
I can be such an AZZ some times !
Or ..
It was Trump & the Russian !
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Location big and small holes
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Hmmm.
Probably the Classic Pontoon group again doing the damage; jealous of our metal flake. 😀
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Classic Pontoon terrorist groups … Jihad on my flake …
I should have known !
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I go back to it being the Russian's, better check it over for novichok too!!! :-X
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Been working on the boat, little bit every day … First start up of the year, went well .. Ready for Red Wing !
Gettin' EXCITED !
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j3uI1P_BCTE&feature=youtu.be (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j3uI1P_BCTE&feature=youtu.be)
https://youtu.be/j3uI1P_BCTE (https://youtu.be/j3uI1P_BCTE)
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Looks and sounds fantastic, is that a DFI engine on the back? 2 stroke?
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1989 Mariner 115 HP 2+2 ..
2-Stroke / Carb's / only 2 cyls. work below 2000 RPM's. Was for fuel economy I guess .. Has a BAD hesitation at 2000 rpm's before the other 2 carbs kick in, but seems to run OK …
Has oil injection, with on motor oil tank. Make's it easy .. No gas / oil mixing.
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Sweet :) 8)
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Nice package.
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How'd it work?
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6 to 8 inch crack in glass on outer edge of inside lifting stake / chine …
Left water in hull after running, two hours later Tim C. and I looked and it was dripping out pretty good.
When he pushed on spot it flexed and started gushing out …
This was the year of the cracked hulls !
Picture is about where crack is.
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I think I got you beat Gregg..... the visible crack actually extends another 18 or so inches back. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180820/f1357b6af9dd421822e8356edf7e6474.jpg)
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Ya .. Going through the no wake in Prescott she was pumping for a good 10 to 20 sec. and your Brother said it had been like that all day !
Eric's ( Jimmy's son) boat was also leaking .. Wondering what's going on with that ?
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I think I got you beat Gregg..... the visible crack actually extends another 18 or so inches back. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180820/f1357b6af9dd421822e8356edf7e6474.jpg)
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Whoa! Your boat Tim? Intimidator?
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Nope. The 23. I have a feeling this ________________is going to fight me the whole way.
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Holy cow!
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That’s a nasty crack.
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That is a bummer Tim on the 23.
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Sorry Gregg. I'm starting my own thread
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Here we go again ...
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The boat did not want you to get too relaxed in your retirement.
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I was hoping to get into assisted living soon … Guess not ..
Thought about letting it sink and start over with this one … $300
Composite every thing, vinylester , BEEF UP transom to hold a new Yamaha ...
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Look on the positive side of things, you could have had a leaky hull like this. It is a Progression boat - one of my favorites, variable dead rise that goes from 24 degrees to 23 to 22, full length stakes, good in rough water, speed in high 90s with a 300 and in the 70s with a stock 200.
Gregg, what is the game plan on your boat? Reinforce the hull from the inside?
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Not sure on game plan, I'll talk with Tim C., Shawn, Joe and Express Comp.
Get some options and take it from there …
Thinking it will have to dry out for a few, before starting repairs.
Not sure if this is how older CV's were done or if the shop that Ed had his CV repaired at did them, But look like a good idea or maybe stringers on the side of center one. What are they ? Bulkheads ? A few in the back can't hurt …
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Crawled under to have a look .. Nice crack !
Pushed on it and water bubbled out up twice as far as big crack, must be well over a foot long …
Other side seems OK.
Last picture is water bubbling, farther up from large crack !
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Pluggin' at her … Slow but sure …
That crack has to be getting bigger every time I used it, I couldn't have missed something that big ?
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Well, as long as you don't have to do the transom & stringers again...shouldn't be too bad?
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Transoms good !
Not sure about stringer … :o
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Was just on Express's web site …
Can't find composite sheets for floor ?
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https://www.expresscomposites.com/polypropylene-core-48-x-96-inches
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Thank you ...
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Cut floor out today, bottom of wood was coated with resin, up to about splash well then thinned out, where it was needed most.
First two pictures …
Three of the screws down center of floor missed stringer by at least two inches …
You can see them at bottom of picture #2
Hard to see crack in pictures, but could feel floor flex when pushed on, other side feels solid when you push/stand on it.
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First picture ..Hard to see but there a crack that must be about a foot long ..
Second picture is where crack is …
Third picture is where big deep crack is on bottom of hull, put a lot of weight on it and couldn't see any cracks, lot's of flex, but no crack.
Easy to see where crack is down from it (Red line).
Found one lone floatation foam log under left side, only water logged on bottom, about an inch ..
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Ok, so the damage is contained and fixable. Good news I'd say!
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At the meet Jerry Selner told me he had done one (CV16) for a customer, said he ripped up floor and laid down a sheet of fiberglass.
The stuff with mat on one side and chopped strand on the other .. I'm looking on Express Comp. site but not sure of name/number for it ..
He didn't say anything about grinding out and patching outer hull, but I'm going to do that also.
Plus cutting out another foot forward and back to transom, to make sure crack is repaired.
I DO NOT want to ever do this again ! So .. Thinking out loud here ..
Fiberglass then add one or two bulk head / cross members per side off stringer to add support .. Like Ed's hull (Picture 05).
Shape a 2x4 and screw floor to it.
OR ..
Core with some composite stuff ..
Or ..
Core and bulk head / cross members.
Opinions welcome !
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At the meet Jerry Selner told me he had done one (CV16) for a customer, said he ripped up floor and laid down a sheet of fiberglass.
The stuff with mat on one side and chopped strand on the other .. I'm looking on Express Comp. site but not sure of name/number for it ..
The mat you’re referring to is 1708 or 1808.
Good luck Gregg!
Terry.
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Nice job digging into this.
I’m not sure you need the gussets, but as long as your there you might as well. The additional weight is minimal. Screw and glass everything to the new floor and structure and I think your good to go. My thoughts are to not overthink this and just patch the crack in and out with new glass and resin and ride on. You probably had a slight flex in your floor and/or the center beam, and then caught a big wave just right for a heavy stress moment. Make everything solid with glass and resin again andd move on. The speed your moving you could test it out this fall yet.
Best of luck.
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The 1708 or 1808 (Thanks Terry) would probably be enough …
Thinking over build just to be 101 % sure.
LOL … Thinking I'll be lucky to be done by spring 2019 !
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Well, you have the issues defined, the tear out mostly complete, and a basic plan to make the repairs, I'd guess you'll be able to make it on the water yet this year. Lets see, when does construction season end and winter begin in MN, October 15th? Just kidding, one possible issue you might entertain is supporting the boat hull before laying up the glass and wood components. If it is just sitting on the trailer, it may be flexing the hull in a manner you wouldn't desire.
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Good question .. At first I was thinking about putting down fiberglass, then putting some weight on top … Now I'm thinking put pressure on bottom with a floor jack .. Or maybe weight on top and pressure on bottom ?
My trailer has bunks that are between the two outer stakes (first picture bunk-crack1) and crack is red circle.
Bunks extend up to one foot from dash (Second picture bunkarea1).
So affected area is kind of hanging … For lack of better term.
I have a picture of an older CV16, hard to say exact year but older then 1973, which shows 3 stringers.
Again hard to say .. but look original.
Hoping for a reply from Shawn. He had to repair a crack on his CV23.
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Trailer
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I would leave it on the trailer just let some pressure off the winch stand so its not pulling it. You could apply very light pressure just to get rid of any sag, if there is any. Not a big span so probably isn't.
I would just rebuild it like it was. I am guessing there is just some bad wood in there or a poor prior repair and that is why it failed. Pull the floor see what the stringers look like inside. Then grind out a large area 3 times the size of the crack. Grind the actual crack down until it is really thin where it is almost threw (both sides) then feather it out from there to about 3 times the width or more. Then layer out layers of glass starting out with a small pieces that just cover the crack. Then keep getting bigger. Your repair area should be about 7-8 inches wide total so 3.5 to 4 inches on each side of the crack. You can get away with a little smaller on the outside if you like since you will have to color match the area. If possible save a big chip of the gelcoat so you can bring to to be color matched, or bring the boat there before you start grinding and have them match the gel.
Let me know if you have other questions or give me a call.
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My CV only has a single stringer down the center, which seems to be solid. Entirely wrapped in fiberglass with resin dripping down sides.
Pulled up floor under splash well while replacing transom and stringer wood was still solid there. Problem was .. where they made the V for the bilge bowl, they just drilled two hole and never sealed them. Didn't help that holes were 2 inches off the bottom of the floor.
OK .. grind out crack on both sides, build up with FG patches, then lay a sheet of 1708 or 1808 over top of repair.
Joe .. do you stock an of the 1708 / 1808 ? Or is it special order ?
Maybe glass a piece of wood in the pocket of the stake, running front to back and screw to floor.
Gel color isn't a big consern as my hull bottom looks like chit. Any light blue will work.
Thank You ..
Now I'm trying to figure out flap wheels .. Type 21 / Type 29 / etc.
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Gregg, how is your retirement so far?
My goal is to build up my body. LOL.
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"Gregg, how is your retirement so far?"
It's been more work then work was !
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We are having a decluttering woman help us get rid of 40 years of accumulation in the house. As she says, it gets worse before it gets better.
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I declutter when the War Dept. isn't looking .. Works well ..
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Yes 1708 and resin in stock
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OK .. It will be a little bit .. I'm very meticulous (SLOW) ...
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I think Jeff has 5 gallons of resin that we bought as well. Not sure how much is left.
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Is this what I need for glass grinding ?
40 / 60 / 80 grit ?
I would prefer less aggressive for tight areas I'll need to grind .. I think ..
4-1/2 in. 40-Grit Steel Demon Grinding and Polishing Flap Disc with Type 29 Conical Design
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-4-1-2-in-40-Grit-Steel-Demon-Grinding-and-Polishing-Flap-Disc-with-Type-29-Conical-Design-DCX045040N01F/202830903 (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-4-1-2-in-40-Grit-Steel-Demon-Grinding-and-Polishing-Flap-Disc-with-Type-29-Conical-Design-DCX045040N01F/202830903)
PFERD POLIFAN® 4-1/2" x 1/2" 80 Grit Flap Disc
https://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/power-tools-accessories/power-tool-accessories/abrasives/pferd-polifan-reg-4-1-2-x-1-2-80-grit-flap-disc/60461/p-1444450706133.htm (https://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/power-tools-accessories/power-tool-accessories/abrasives/pferd-polifan-reg-4-1-2-x-1-2-80-grit-flap-disc/60461/p-1444450706133.htm)
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Kinda like what oil or wood to use question. Those will work, I prefer to use cut off and 1/4" thick grinding disks made for concrete work. They cut well, last forever, and leave the surface rough. Perfect for the new resin to bite into. The sanding disks 40-60 are better suited for a quick rough up on newly set layers to knock off any chunkage and make better transitions for the next layer. Just my $0.02
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Is this what I need for glass grinding ?
40 / 60 / 80 grit ?
I would prefer less aggressive for tight areas I'll need to grind .. I think ..
4-1/2 in. 40-Grit Steel Demon Grinding and Polishing Flap Disc with Type 29 Conical Design
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-4-1-2-in-40-Grit-Steel-Demon-Grinding-and-Polishing-Flap-Disc-with-Type-29-Conical-Design-DCX045040N01F/202830903 (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-4-1-2-in-40-Grit-Steel-Demon-Grinding-and-Polishing-Flap-Disc-with-Type-29-Conical-Design-DCX045040N01F/202830903)
PFERD POLIFAN® 4-1/2" x 1/2" 80 Grit Flap Disc
https://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/power-tools-accessories/power-tool-accessories/abrasives/pferd-polifan-reg-4-1-2-x-1-2-80-grit-flap-disc/60461/p-1444450706133.htm (https://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/power-tools-accessories/power-tool-accessories/abrasives/pferd-polifan-reg-4-1-2-x-1-2-80-grit-flap-disc/60461/p-1444450706133.htm)
That is what I use Gregg! I think I used the 80 grit so I have a little more control. Cleans up the surface nice for new glass to bond to.
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Thanks guys ..
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Gregg, Don't buy anything. I have everything needed.
Just let me know when to come over & help!
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Thanks Jim .. To late I already got it ..
I need a grinder anyways …
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If he needed a grinder any ways must mean something.?
Retirement and future projects?
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Here is a good article on fiberglass and repairs.
https://www.fibreglast.com/product/fiberglass-repair-composite-repair/Learning_Center (https://www.fibreglast.com/product/fiberglass-repair-composite-repair/Learning_Center)
Here is a link to a lot of fiberglass information. Even info on using metal flake.
https://www.fibreglast.com/category/Learning_Center (https://www.fibreglast.com/category/Learning_Center)
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I think it’s an epidemic, after switching the windshield last Friday my bilge pump was turned off and I noticed water above the floor on the GT.
When I put this much water in the bilge with a garden hose.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180905/02cdb6bbe47349db99c53fc3b8a8fa49.jpg)
This crack in the transom
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180905/04f2e10f7057ce2629b7546d13cad9fb.jpg)
Does this
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180905/93c30413aba2823cadf0507efd5ff06e.jpg)
I have a video that shows how fast it’s running out, but I can’t figure out how to post here
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What the H&$l!
Not sure if I should go boating any more might come home with a cracked hull.
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We lost the ability to post video directly...at least video of any quality. Best option is to link via Youtube.
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And good Lord, did everyone crack a hull this year? Honestly, were wing dams jumping out at folks, or trees floating down around you guys?
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HOLY CRAP ! ! ! It's an epidemic ! Stay out of the water !
Please don't post a video Joe .. It was bad enough to see it for real ...
We can start buying fiberglass and resin in bulk now ...
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The feared cracked hull disease. No wonder my boat refused to go out of the garage this year (well, twice). Had to go check the hull just now for cracks.
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Erik's was leaking also .. No word if it was hull yet ..
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No leaks on mine......but i'm gonna check anyway. Seriously! What is going on. I don't remember anybody's hull ever cracking. Well, except for that one time, with Doug.....but a buoy was involved. ;)
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Erik's was leaking also .. No word if it was hull yet ..
Finally got around to checking the V174 today.
NO HULL CRACKS - small crack in bellows and plugged bilge pump.
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Well that's good .. Not good but not as bad as a hull crack !
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I think this may be my fault, as I noticed a crack in my CVX16 3 months ago, and ever since then, everyone is seeing cracks..... :( Sorry :(
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I'll forgive ya Mike .. If ya come over and do grinding on my hull … LOL
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Hey that's a great idea, practice before I do mine this fall :) :) :) :P
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How you getting on with yours Gregg, all sorted now?
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Slow but sure .. got all winter to get it done.
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Be great to see some pics when you have them :) Do you think you'll get her done by next season?
I'm way behind you with my work, will probably start in 4 weeks time before it gets too cold here. Just bought a new lower unit, new tempest pro prop and all the engine parts I need, but really struggling on the diagrams and understanding on the floor, stringers and glass work. I really appreciate all your advice previously Gregg and of course everyone else on here. It would be impossible without everyone's help and support.
Do you have any suggestions on how I should stabilise the shape of the hull before glassing? The trailer I have is a roller trailer and only supports in 4 areas and that's not good for the hull if I'm going to re-floor and re-glass. I also want to replace the main beam in the hull but I don't know what wood to use so any suggestions or recommendations would be great, that's if it's even possible?
Best
Mike.
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Some have removed boat from trailer then built entire cradles , some have added support to trailer, to hold hull better, some have removed and replaced floor and stringer, then removed deck to repair transom, some have just screwed two by fours to sides of hull to keep hull from spreading with deck removed. Also kind of depends on how long you think it will take to do all repairs.
My stringer & floor were good so I removed all rotted transom wood, ground out glass, then removed deck and replaced transom and rear stringer/ bilge well and had deck back on by end of day.
For stringer, some have used plywood, others have used solid boards, and other have used poured composite.
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Thanks Gregg, lots of choices then! :) LOL
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I have never replaced my stringer, so never really looked into options.
I say .. How well it's put together is more important then what materials were used.
Of course with in reason …
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Do you know of any spec sheets that show what the floor measurements are and what they should be or where I might be able to get some so that I can study what I need to do??
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No blueprint's that I know of …
Take pictures, measurements and notes of what thing look like and where they are.
Rip and grind everything out, then use cardboard or foam insulation board for patterns, fit and trim to fit stringer, transom, floor.
Make adjustments as you go.
Use good fiberglass and resin from a fiberglass supply company, not your local home supply store.
Get measuring cups and syringes to get proper mixing ratios, VERY IMPORTANT !
Also get disposable rollers, paint brushes, rubber gloves, acidtone, etc.
Cut to fit fiberglass before mixing resin, have someone help mixing so you can glass with out getting in and out of boat.
You only have 10 to 15 min. before resin starts to kick, so have everything ready to go before hand.
What you use for wood / composite, resin Poly / Vinyl / Epoxy, are things you'll have to decide on.
They all have there plus's and minus's ...
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Thanks Gregg, don't feel so bad about taking it on now, will do homework over the next few weeks and may even start the work in January, that will give me time to make sure I have everything I need. Plus going to Punta Cana over xmas so should really start when refreshed and feeling like I have enough energy :)
Thanks again and hope you manage to finish yours soon.
Best regards
Mike